Inspiration...Linen Top

 Summer time is meant for linen.  I believe it is also meant for sleeveless tops on those really hot days of summer and this top definitely qualifies.

This is the Sophia Linen Top from Boden.  Price tag: $110.00.  Details:  100% linen, straight not too tight, machine washable, designed to fall between the waist and the hip, keyhole and button fastening at back neckline.

I love this top.  I do not have any striped fabric stashed. I am sure if you look that a similar look can be found.  Here is the pattern:

This is the Phoebe Tank from fabrics-store.com.  This pattern would definitely need to be fitted but once it is done you can make many woven tank tops.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Sewing!

Scrappy Top....

 This top looks so intentional.  I love the scrappiness of it.

Thisi s just a random picture from Pinterest. I can see doing this with scraps hiding among my growing piles of scraps.  I can see doing this with knits as will.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Linen Top and Skirt

 I really enjoy wearing linen tops and bottoms in the summer.  This inspiration outfit is beautiful:

This is the Lafayette 148 3D Carnation Raw Linen Sleeveless Top and Midi Skirt.  Price tag: Top - $695.00, Skirt - $895.00. Details: Top - sleeveless, crew neckline, relaxed fit, invisible back zipper, linen, dry clean.  Skirt - high waist, hem fails below knee, a-line silhouette, invisible back zipper, linen, dry clean.

This is a perfect silhouette for summer.  It is even dressy if you put this applique on.  

This is the Phoebe Tank from fabrics-store dot com.  It is a free pattern and might take time to fit but it is worth it.  I have made around seven of these tanks and they are worn all the time.

This is McCall's 8510.  View A of the pattern looks like it might work for the inspiration photo.  Although it is more like a 1/2 circle skirt so it may be too full.  

In reality, there are not any skirt patterns that I could find in the big four that matches this simple skirt not there were not a lot of nice skirt patterns.  

If you have a straight skirt pattern fitted, this tutorial shows how to draft an a-line skirt using an existing pattern.  This would be an ideal solution and help with the fitting portion of making a new item.  Here is a tutorial on how to draft an a-line skirt using your measurements.

There is also a chance that you can find a pattern on Etsy.  

Here is a tutorial on making 3D flowers.  Hope it is useful.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Silk Top

 Here is a little bit of inspiration for late summer and early fall:

This is Lafayette 148 New York Adela Sleeveless Blouse.  Price tag: $598.00.  Details:  Approximately 27-inches from shoulder to hem, round neckline, sleeveless, relaxed fit, back neck slit with inside button, silk/elastine, dry clean only.

This top looks very similar to my favorite fabric-stores dot com freebie tank - Phoebe.  You need to have an account with this company to download free patterns. Here is a glimpse at the pattern:

This pattern will need to be fitted.  This pattern does not have a center back seam for a bit of shaping but you can add one.

Seriously, you can make several silk tanks for the price tag on this one.  Here are a few shops to consider:

1. Chinese ebay seller - stretch silk charmeuse

2.  NY Designer Fabrics - stretch silk charmeuse

3.  Mood Fabrics - stretch silk charmeuse

I have listed this from least expensive to most expensive.  Mood has the most colors of the fabric.  For a muslin fabric, I would use a polyester or rayon charmeuse before cutting into the more expensive fabric.  For me, it one took 1 yard of fabric to make a tank in the Phoebe.  Hope you are inspired to create something wondeful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Tank Top

 When it is hot out, I spend most of my time in dress or a tank and a skirt.  This is a great little tank:

This is the Fringed Denim Tank Top by Akris Punto. Price tag: $495.00. Details:  stretch denim with fringe detail, crew neckline, sleeveless, relaxed fit, invisible back zip, cotton/spandex, dry-clean.  

This reminds me very much of my favorite tank top pattern from fabrics-store.com - The Phoebe Tank:

The changes would be to create a yoke so that you could insert the fringe.  The best part is this is a free pattern and fairly easy to fit. 

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Fringed Top

 I do not usually go for anything fringed but this top is the exception.  Here it is:

This is the Akris punto Fringe Detail Blouse.  Price tag: $495.00.  Details:  viscose blend with fringe hem details, round neckline, sleeveless, back zip closure, side slits, hip length, relaxed fit.

This one is worth looking at close up at the Neiman Marcus website.  It has that pieced vibe going on.  As for the pattern, I think that my favorite tank pattern would well along with the fact that it is already fitted.  

This is a free pattern from fabrics-store.com.  It is the Phoebe Tank and well worth taking the time to fit.  This pattern is a pull-over but you can change it.  I think I would be tempted to leave out the zipper and just put in a back yoke so you could have fringe across the back.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Itch To Stitch...Santorini Tank

 Itch to Stitch has released a new summer tank for woven fabric.  It will be on 20% off through June 11, 2023.  Here is the line drawings:

The Santorini Tank pdf pattern has options for bust cups, round neckline, front and back princess seams from the neck, neckline and armhole finished in all-in-one facing, buttoned on the side, designed for non-stretch wovens, and falls at high hip.   The design lines would make this an easy top to color block.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.  All purchasing discounts still apply.

Happy Stitching!

Allegro Bottom Pants and Phoebe Tank...

 The final bit of sewing for the month of April.  Another pair of Allegro Bottoms pants in linen and another Phoebe Tank.  There is certainly something to be said about fitting a pattern and using it more than once.  It makes sewing much more enjoyable and satisfying.  Here is the Allegro Bottoms in a navy linen:

Here is the Phoebe Tank is a shade of blue linen:

I actually purchased these two linens to go together but I do not think I will wear them together.  I suppose that makes this tank an orphan.  The pants are such a great neutral that they will never be an orphan.  I guess we will see in the future what I find to go with this tank.  This will be the last Phoebe tank this year unless I decide to make it into a dress.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Linen Suit

 If I was still employed in an office, I would be all of this type of outfit.  I love the look of a pant suit.

This is Lafayette 148 Linen Canvas Collarless Jacket and Pant.  Price tag - Jacket: $1398.00, Pant: $798.00.  Details - Jacket: Slim fit, Jewel neckline, long sleeve, button closure, chest button patch pockets, bust darts, french piping, quilted cotton interior with thermore filling, high hip length, dry clean only, 100% linen;  Pant: full through hip and leg, zip closure, back waist darts, front slant and back welt pockets, mid-rise, full length, 100% linen, dray clean only.

This outfit is also shown with the following top (might as well make an outfit):

This is the Lafayette 148 Silk Charmeuse Bias Tank.  Price tag: $498.00. Details: a-line silhouette, v-neck, ultra thin straps, low hip length, lined, 100% silk, dry clean only.

Here is the pattern selections:

This is the True Bias Ogden PDF pattern.  I think this is a fairly good match.  The straps may be wider than the inspiration photo.  That is a design element that you are allowed to change.

This is the Liesel & Co Hollywood Trousers pattern.  You can get it either paper or pdf version.  This is a classic trouser pattern and well worth fitting and making over and over.  The waist may be higher than the inspiration photo.

This is Vogue 7975.  It is not an exact match to the inspiration pattern.  I do not think it is as boxy but it is the only current pattern I could find. It might be worth searching out Claire Shaeffer's patterns for this one.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Friday Update...

 Looks like the Friday updates may be bi-weekly instead of weekly.  I have been relatively busy changing decor at my house - post 1 and post 2.  Maybe this next week I will start the slipcovers.  They really should not be hard just time consuming figuring out what needs to be done.  

I made another tank made.  I am very happy with the fit of the sleeveless armhole.  I may make another version of this tank but I think it will be the last for this year unless I decide to follow through and make a tank dress.  

Also, I made a t-shirt from the Loves Notions Classic Tee Shirt pattern.  I love the fabric.  The pattern needs more tweaking for me.  It is wearable even with it's flaws.  I have many pieces of fabric destined for t-shirts.  

I  purchased more fabric.  The blue linen is destined to become another tank.  I love the color and wish that I had picked up more than a remnant.  

I have started working on the Allegro Bottoms pants pattern.  I need to work out the sizing before I get too far.  I traced and started working on a size 14 and decided that I needed to rework the sizing as I did not think I had enough room.  I am planning two pair of pants in linen and tight would probably pull the seams out.  

I have been working through another season of the Design Your Wardrobe at Seamwork.  I do not follow through with every lesson but it does seem to help a bit with my planning.  Most of what I have made or planned has been the linen from Fabrics-store.com.  I have a real love for linen.  

I also purchased the Love Notions Duet Trousers Course.  This is the first time that I have taken a class from this site but I decided to give it a try.  I had purchased the pattern a couple of years ago and it has been updated now with more sizes and a fully belly adjustment which I thought was interesting.  Anyway, you may see me attempting that pant was well in the near future.  Karina at Pins & Needles just made a pair of the Duet Trousers in linen and put her own spin it.  It is worth watching.  It gives me all kinds of ideas.

Happy Stitching!

Willow Tank Round 2...

 I have continued working on the Willow Tank muslin.  In the last post, I was going to increase the armhole depth by 1/2-inch.  I did this but it still wasn't enough.  Then, I made the change equal to 3/4-inch.  I think that is perfect.  This put the bust dart when it should have been, I think.  I draped the bust dart and pinned in another inch.  Here is the results of those changes:

In this picture, the length from the shoulder to the bust is better.

In the picture you can see the bust dart positioning.  I think the location is good but needs to be a bit shorter.  I can still a little bit of rippling along the back armscye.  I think that means I need a little bit more length and I will do a small increase at center back by 1/4-inch.  

This is so you can see the difference in the hang of the top from left to right.  The left side has the larger dart pinned in.

The back view with the armhole depth enlarged from first go around.  It is the same 3/4-inch. I do not see any additional pulling under the arms.  I do see some strange wrinkles that I am not familiar with.  They look like backward parenthesis about where the bottom of the shoulder blades would be or bottom of the armscye.  

A little more alterations and I enlisted the help of the photographer:

I have hand stitched larger darts.

The front is hanging better with the larger, shorter dart.

The back is hanging much better.  The weird backward parentheses is mostly gone.  A 1/4" high round back alteration was done.  When I restitched the side seams, I only stitched to the waist leaving the remainder open to see how the wrinkles looked.  I think the answer is that the width of the pattern doesn't match me yet.  It could be that the waist is hanging lower than should which would be the width of the hip in the wrong.  Regardless, I need a little more space for the backside.  Here is the finally version of the pattern:

Folks, I am going to call this pattern ready to sew the spring/summer wardrobe in April.  The changes need to be transferred to the pattern.   I might have to redo this if I happen to lose more weight but if I do not then I can whip a couple of tops and a dress with this pattern fairly quickly.

One item checked off my list.

Happy Stitching!

Willow Tank - 1st Muslin...

 Following last week's measuring session, I have cut out and stitched a muslin of the Willow Tank.  I am pleasantly surprised.  The fit was not too bad but I would say I mismeasured on the armhole depth because it is really tight. Making a mistake on the first length measurement has repercussions all the down the garment.  Here are the photos:

As expected, there are depth issues. The bust dart needs to be a bit larger.  You can see the diagonals wrinkles going from the bust to the hem.  The bust dart is actually a little too high which is partially due to the armhole depth being too small.  It could also be an bra issue as I have a different bra on now verses when I did the measurements.

Now you can really see the depths issues with the cup sizing and the dart being too high.  I can also see an ever so slight indication that I need a little more space for my back.  A small high round back alteration.  

Mostly the same issues are the left side.

You can see the issue with the armhole depth here.  The arnscye is really tight in the back.  As far as the wrinkling in the back.  I am going to leave it for now.   When I open the side seams for the draping of the dart, it may show I need more circumference.  

Changes that I will do on this muslin:

    1.  Insert 1/2" of fabric for armhole height.

    2.  Drape dart.

    3.  May add a high round back adjustment.

    4.  Double check circumference at hip.  I do not think that I actually did this when I was measuring.  

Hopefully, I can get back to this quickly.  My mom is moving to an apartment very soon and I seem to be the main packer.

Happy Stitching!

Starting The Project List...The Willow Tank

 Today, I started working on my Project List.  I have started with the Willow Tank pattern by Grainline Studio.  I started here because I have space to work it instead of one of the larger projects.  Here is a view of the Willow Tank:

I purchased this pattern a couple of years ago thinking I would make some new tanks for the following summer.  Did not happen.  

I traced a size 18 and I am now checking the lengths on the pattern.  I know that there will be depth issues because this pattern is drafted for a B cup but that will easily be taken care of once I have a muslin made.  Well, I actually traced the pattern last summer or fall and it seems that I have lost weight which has resulted in needing a size 16 instead of the size 18.  It is a shocker.

Now, repeating the same exercise with the size 16 instead of the size 18.  Here is the pattern pieces with marking at the bust, armhole, waist, hip, and marking for making lengths changes:

Now, the interesting part happening.  I started measuring and was very surprised.  I knew that I was short between high bust and shoulder but was surprised to see how much.  I knew that my torso was long.  Here is the changed pattern:

I reduced the length of the upper torso through the armscye by 1 1/2 inches.  That is a lot.  I added 3/4-inch above the bust and 2-inches above the waist.  All I can say is wow.  

This is an experiment on part.  I have never been one to change the pattern before making a muslin.  I am following along with Katrina in Lifting Pins and Needles on the Let's Sew Our Best Fitting Woven Top Series.  Check it out.  

Next, I will make a muslin and see how it looks.  My muslins are almost always snipped and tucked.  I do expect to increase the dart.  I generally do this with the muslin and then make the changes to the pattern.  I will see if doing the length changes a head of time make short work of the muslin.  

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Happy Stitching!

New Tank Pattern - Itch to Stitch Sentosa Tank...

 The hot days of summer are coming and Itch to Stitch has a new tank. Here is the line drawings:

This is Itch to Stirch Sentosa Tank pdf pattern.  It has an asymmetrical new line with pleats and a relaxed fit.  It has regular bust and full bust options, finished with all in one facing, and designed for knit fabrics.   It will be on sale through June 5, 2022.  All regular discounts still apply. Remember to check out the blog post to see all of the tester versions.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.  Any purchases made through my links will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.  Thank you!

Happy Stitching!

Blue Tank...

When I decided to make the Seamwork Dorian Pant, I knew that I would need to make a top to go with the pants.  You can see my version of the pants here.  I found this fabric at fabric dot com:

This is the Kaufman Sophia Washed Lawn in deep royal.  It is a perfect match for my pants.  I missed the fact that is was only a hair over 1 1/2 oz per yard.  I was happy that I ordered 1 1/2 yards and had enough fabric to double cut the tank.  I used this pattern:

Here is a link to the pattern - Phoebe Linen Tank.  It is a free pattern and you need to be registered to download it.  You can see the muslin here and the finished tanks here.  This pattern has kinda turned into a TNT for me.   Here's the finished tank with the Dorian pants:

The tank doesn't fit as well as I would have hoped.  At least, I don't think it fits as well as the first tanks that I made.  This was a learning experience as I have never had to cut two layers to make a top feel comfortable.  I'm hoping it will become "love to wear" item for this summer.

Happy Stitching!

Woven Tanks...

I have completed my first items for spring/summer.  The pattern is Linen Tank from Fabrics-stores.com.  You can read more about it here. I am pretty excited about it as these tops are my first sewing accomplished for the year:

This was my second muslin and I am calling it wearable.  Very wearable.  Yeah, I can see that there needs to be a little more darting in the front.  I really just want something that will be cool and comfortable when the weather gets hot.  I will say that I did an expert here.  In the post about the muslin for this pattern, you can see where I pinned a dart in.  On the pattern itself, I rotated the dart to the hem and then took off the excess at the side.  (Sorry for the blurry photos.  I find it very hard to take pictures of myself.  The photographer is living across town .)

Here is the next version:

This version is made with 100% linen.  I can see on the front that I have just a wee bit of gaping.  It is a wearable and I am sure when the temperature hit 90s to 100 that I will be very happy this.  I am hoping that once this is washed that some of the gaping disappears and that it is not that I have stretched the armhole.

Overall, I would say this is a great free pattern.  It seemed to be drafted very well.

Happy Sewing!