Monday, July 31, 2023

Inspiration...Striped Shirt

Moving on to cooler weather.  Today's inspiration is a long sleeved shirt:



This is the Striped Button Down Cotton Shirt by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $598.00.  Details: approximately 31-inches from the shoulder to hem, pointed collar, button front, long sleeves, button cuff, chest pocket, box-pleat back yoke, shirt tail hem, relaxed fit, unlined. 

This is a classic shirt pattern and this is the pattern I would use:


This is the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  I have this shirt pattern fitted already and intend to use it a lot.  It is not as relaxed as the inspiration photo but I think you could get away with adding a bit at the sides.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!





Thursday, July 27, 2023

Interesting Fabric...

 As I start planning the fall/winter, I was looking around the knitfabric.com website for any interesting fabrics that might add new and exciting to the mix.  Yes, I am definitely trying to use what I have but I know from past experience that something different needs to be added to keep it interesting.  Anyway, I did find an interesting fabric but it is definitely not a fall/winter item.  Here it is:

This is a double gauze jersey (link for all available double gauze jersey).  The pictured item is Painted Daisies on Rose Double Gauze Jersey.  

I think that I am in love.  There are at least three colors that I would love to have.  This fabric is 150gsm or 4.4 oz per square yard which makes it fairly lightweight and perfect for hot summer days.  I have never sewn with a gauze much less a gauze jersey.  Somehow, I would think that the recovery might be an issue.  It states that there is a horizontal stretch.  I also found a Double Gauze T-Shirt pattern at Wardrobe by Me.  

I could not find any information on sewing with this type of fabric.  Lots of sewing with double gauze but not the double gauze jersey.    I think I would be tempted to use this as a woven verses as a knit. The fabric is a little pricey but sometimes it is okay to spurge.  My tank top pattern might just be perfect but how many tanks do I need?

Have you seen this fabric in jersey?  Have you used this fabric?  How did it turn out?

I am an affiliate of knitfabric.com.  Some of the links above are affiliate links.  I would get a small commission should you decide to purchase through one of my links at no cost to you,

Happy Stitching!

Wednesday, July 26, 2023

Project Planning...

 It is time to really get going on planning fall/winter projects.  I have a coat project planned but I want some dresses as well.  I started with shopping the stash and this is something I really need to do instead of looking for new fabric.  Here is what the stash offered up:


This is a grey knit fabric with pinks and teals.  I think it is a jersey.  There is three yards which is plenty for a long sleeve knit dress.


This piece is three yards also.  Even though the picture looks light grey it is a dark teal color ponte roma. To me the fabric looks more like a teal and black rather than just a solid teal.

Since both pieces will allow the creation of a long sleeve dress, I need to pick a pattern.  Here are my thoughts for now:



This is the Seamwork Piedra Dress.  I am fairly certain that the grey knit was purchased with this pattern in mind.  So, I am going to attempt to fit the pattern which means even more stash fabric will disappear. 



This is the Seamwork Tai Dress & Tunic pattern.  The dark teal fabric would probably do well in this fabric.  Sigh! Another pattern that needs fitting.  

I have a time to change my mind on the patterns.  I probably will not on the grey fabric but I might on the teal. 

Fitting takes a lot of time and it is really a shame not to take advantage of making multiples of an item once it has been fitting.  Wish me luck as I have three projects planned so far and all three require the patterns to be fitted.

Happy Stitching!

Tuesday, July 25, 2023

Itch to Stitch Summer Promotion...

  Itch to Stitch will be having a summer promotion.  Once a week one pattern will be on special for 24 hours. Today's special is:


The Kalispell Dress pdf pattern.  
The pattern is $7.00 till 12pm mountain time today. Here is the details:

  • Options for A, B, C, D and DD cups
  • Options for cap sleeves and flare sleeves
  • V neck
  • Front button closure with band
  • Bodice front and back princess seams
  • Full skirt with inverted box pleats
  • Ample in-seam pockets
  • Layers feature (print only the sizes you need)
  • Sizes 00 - 20
  • Intermediate sewing skill level
Check out the blog post with all the tester versions of the dress.  Fantastic dress for the summer heat.

Please note that this offer can not be combined with other promotions.  Discount will be applied automatically during the check out process.  Be sure to check out the blog post to see all the beautiful variations.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.  All purchasing discounts still apply.

Happy Stitching!

Monday, July 24, 2023

Inspiration...Pintuck Linen Popover Dress

 There is nothing better on a hot summer than a loose fitting dress.  This dress is just that:


This is the vintage Linen Pintuck Popover Dress by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $998.00.  Details:  relaxed silhouette, jewel neckline, dolman above elbow sleeve, cuffed sleeve, button-loop half placket, seam pockets, pintuck and ladder stitch detail, shirring at side waist cutline, below knee length, semi-sheer, 100% linen, machine wash cold or dry-clean. Here is a close-up of the top:


Close-up of the pintucks, the entredeux, and the button placket.  I love seeing thiese heirloom techniques on modern dresses cause we can do it too.  The pintucks and entredeux is also on the back.  

If I was making this, I would make the center panels, button placket (front only), and then stitch the entredeux.  I am not sure if I would keep the dolman sleeve.  The dolman sleeve would make it easier to sew if you had a pattern with those details.  Of course, you could make the pattern have those details by cutting on the sleeve but there could be more to it than simple aligning the sleeve with the body of the pattern.  

I would be tempted to change up a pattern that I have used a few times. 


This is The Camber Set by Merchant & Mills.  The dress would need some minor changes to get it to look like inspiration dress.  First, you would need to decide whether or not to keep the dolman sleeve.  Here's a tutorial for changing to a dolman sleeve.  Here is a video to get the loop button placket started. Looks easy.  Next, I would split the dress starting at the mid-shoulder to the hem using the fold as a straight edge.  The fabric for the center panel will depend on how many tucks you want and how deep.  

Hope you are inspired.

Happy Stitching!

Friday, July 21, 2023

New Itch To Stitch Nosara Shirt...

 Itch to Stitch new Nosara Shirt pdf pattern is a quick and easy shirt pattern.  Here is the line drawings:



The Nosara Shirt has the following options:

  • Options for cup sizes
  • Standard collar with collar stand
  • Integrated dolman sleeves
  • Front buttoned
  • Back yoke with back pleats
  • High-low shirttail hem
  • Designed for non-stretch, lightweight woven fabric
Check out the Nosara Shirt blog post to see the many variations made by the testers.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.  The Nosara Shirt will be 20% off through July 27, 2023.  All purchasing discounts still apply.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Wednesday, July 19, 2023

Merchant & Mills Camber Set Dress...

 So, I planned this project almost two years ago.  Here is the original fabric order post. Here is the fabric:


This is a linen/cotton blend which should be very nice for the hot weather.  This fabric has an interesting selvage and I am thinking about applying it somehow.  Here is the selvage:

For the pattern - Merchant & Mills Camber Set:


I have made this dress twice before (Version 1 and Version 2) and love it but realize that it is a little big for me through the shoulders.  I have modified the pattern using the tutorial at Helen's Closet and removed 5/8-inch from the shoulder.  Here is the results:


Sorry for the hanger picture but the photographer is away.  This pattern has become one of my most used patterns.  I really should do a complete refit on it is a little bit big but still very comfy.  As you can seen I chickened out on used the selvage edge on the dress.  

Happy Stitching!

Camera man returned.  Here's a picture with me:



Tuesday, July 18, 2023

Itch to Stitch Summer Promotion -

 Itch to Stitch will be having a summer promotion.  Once a week one pattern will be on special for 24 hours. Today's special is:


The Melrose Top & Dress pdf pattern.  The pattern is $7.00 till 12pm mountain time today. Here is the details:

All views come with the following options:

  • Options for A, B, C, D and DD cups
  • C, D and DD cups have bust darts
  • Wide and flattering scoop neckline finished with bias binding
  • Dolman-style short sleeves with cuffs
  • Unlined

View A:

  • Dress with cinched waist and elastic through casing
  • Ample, functional, in-seam pockets

View B:

  • Top with cinched waist and elastic through casing
  • Gathered peplum

View C:

  • Short, boxy top with bottom band

Please note that this offer can not be combined with other promotions.  Discount will be applied automatically during the check out process.  Be sure to check out the blog post to see all the beautiful variations.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.  All purchasing discounts still apply.

Happy Stitching!

Monday, July 17, 2023

Inspiration...Tank Dress

 Are you a person who is still sewing for summer in July/August?  I do.  I get tired of my summer clothes and need a refresh.  This dress is perfect for now and into early fall.  I can see if being worn a lot.


This is the Zenergy UPF Neema Floral Dress.  Price tag: $119.00.  Details:  Lightweight, rapid-dry, moisture-wicking, four-way-stretch Neema fabric rated UPF 50+ to block both UVA and UVB rays; classic fit; sleeveless, scoop neck, on-seam pockets, front-facing high low hem, midi length;  machine wash, length is 42-inches front & 44 1/2-inches back, machine wash.

This is not an expensive dress.  I had not heard of Neema fabric before and found this article.  I have not found anyone selling yardage.  Let me know if you a fabric retailer selling yardage. 

Pattern thoughts:


This is New Look 6352.  You get two length variations and two sleeve variations.  It is suppose to be a 1 hour pattern.  It is a bargain at $3.99 even if you just make it once.


This is the dress that I thought of when I saw the inspiration dress.  This is the KISS Dress by Brensan Studios.  The KISS stands for Keep It Simple Sewing!  Unfortunately, it is OOP but you might get luck and find something,  This dress can be a pullover or more fitted with a zipper and darts.  It has two lengths - knee length and boot length.  

I have this pattern and I think I am going to take a closer look at it.  Especially, the knee version that is a little fitted or not.  Hope you are inspire to create something wonderful!

Happy Stitching!





Thursday, July 13, 2023

Inspiration...Camp Shirt

 This shirt is heading toward early to late fall (at least in my area) with the elbow length sleeves.

This is the Elbow-Sleeve Cotton Camp Shirt by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $598.00.  Details:  approximately 25 1/2- inches long, point collar, partial hidden button front, elbow sleeves, back yoke, side slit hem, relaxed fit, pull-over style, unlined, topstitching detail.  

There are several things that I like about the top - it's woven, relaxed fit, pull over styling, elbow length sleeve, topstitching detail.  I came up with three different patterns that kinda give you the same feel:


This is the Merchant & Mills The Factory Dress pattern.  Did you know that there is a top tutorial?  Check it out here.  You do not get the button band with this one but if you have the dress fitted why not make a top?  Lengthen the sleeves is fairly easy change to make.


This is the Liesl & Co Galley Tunic + Dress pattern.  This gives you a pleat on the front.  No doubt you can figure out how to remove the pleat, if you do not want it.  Use the one-piece collar instead of the collar stand, shorten the sleeves, and maybe shorten the length.  It also appears  a little more fitted than the inspiration phot through the shoulder area.


This is the line drawing for the Donny Shirt pattery by Friday Pattern Co.  It has the pull-over styling and the relaxed fit.  The collar is different. To me, the general feel is the same.  You might need to lengthen the sleeve.

I have given you lots to think about today.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!


Wednesday, July 12, 2023

Classic Tee...

 I have made a lot of t-shirts.  I never had an issue with the neckband until this fabric:


It is 100% cotton jersey which in my mind should have been perfect for a t-shirt.  Not so much.  I have decided that never again will I attempt a cotton jersey for t-shirt.  I really think that the only way a jersey will work for a neckband is if it has lycra in it.  I never had a neckband stand out from my body before.  I did make an alteration to this pattern by raising the neckline.  I very carefully measured the neckline and calculated the size that the neckband needed to be.  Of course, I did not notice the problem until after the neckband had attached by the serger and then the coverstitch.  Of yeah, I had fun removing those stitches.  

After the removal, I double-checked the length of the neckline on the top against the pattern.  The neckline was fine.  The only thing that was not was the neckband. It had stretched by approximately 3-inches.  I cut out another neckband from the fabric.  After some consideration, I decided that might not be a good idea.  Why would I expect different results with the same fabric?  

Now, I started considering different finishing options.  I could serge the edge, turn, and coverstitch but that would defeat raising the neckline.  Then, I thought maybe I could find some white ribbing and attach it with the serger.  The stash did indeed yield some white ribbing.  Here is the results:


The tee turned out okay.  I am happy that I was able to save the top because I really like the print and color.  I will avoid 100% cotton jersey in the future for a t-shirt with a neckband.  I am guessing that the issue is a mismatch between the fabric and the pattern.  Overall, this will be a much needed top in the wardrobe. It fits a little better than what I can purchase. The pattern needs a little more tweaking. 

Happy Stitching!





Tuesday, July 11, 2023

First Planned Project For Fall/Winter 2023...

The sewjo went missing for a while so I started planning projects for fall/winter.  You know I did not look toward the stash for the fabrics.  The pattern has been stashed for a while.  Here is the pattern:

This is the Octave Coat pattern by Love Notions.  When this pattern was released, I was very drawn to the jacket with the faux fur collar.  I have decided to do a relatively lightweight coat/jacket.  I have a coat for extreme cold which does not last long here.  I do not have a coat for mild weather.  I can make my own.  Here is the fabric:


This is a loopy polyester/rayon fabric.  I was very happy when this fabric arrived.  It would be great as pants/jacket/skirt.  No visible right side either.  I am considering using a solid fabric for the collar.  This is one that I recently purchased on a whim:


This is a vegan leather.  I have one yard and I do not know if that is enough for the collar.  It might work and it might not.

Here is the lining fabric:


I was sad to find out that the company that made my favorite lining is no longer in business.  This fabric is the Sunline Anti-Static Lining Fabric from JoAnn.  I purchased 2 1/2 yards.   Care is Machine Wash Cold, Line Dry.  I have not used this lining before.  Hope it is good.

I guess the next step is to do a muslin of the pattern.  I think that I might have some bits and pieces of canvas hanging around from other muslins.  I am mainly concerned with the bust placement and the sleeve size.  I want the coat to have enough ease that I can wear a sweater under it.

One thing I know for sure is that the coat muslin will not get started until I finish my summer clothes.

Happy Stitching!

Monday, July 10, 2023

Inspiration...Button-Down Jacket

 Have you been thinking about cooler weather items yet?  I have.  This jacket would be nice as part of a suit or by itself.  

This is the Button-Down Wool-Cashmere Jacket by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $1498.00.  Details:  Approximately 22 1/2-inches from shoulder to hem, mandarin collar, button front, dropped shoulders, long sleeves, side welt pockets, boxy fit, fully lined, metallic buttons.  Model is 5'10".  If you want a closer look, check it out at Neiman Marcus website.

When I saw this jacket, I immediately thought of this pattern:


This is an OOP pattern by Textile Studio Patterns.  If you can find a copy of the pattern, these are the changes that I see:

1. Modify collar so that there is a gap.

2.  Add welt pockets.

3.  Add lining.

4. Lengthen sleeves.

That is not a bad list of changes.  Honestly, I think that the first one will be the hard one.  It could be the second item on the list.  Maybe I will re-visit this pattern.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!



Friday, July 7, 2023

More Fabric...

 I have been trying really hard not to purchase anymore fabric but sometimes I just can not resist.  Here are the latest purchases:


I purchased 2 yards of the denim jacquard.  I just love this type of fabric.  This is enough for a pair of pants or a dress.  It could end up as the Love Notions Duet Trousers or New Look 6500 shift dress.  Only time will tell.  Care: Machine Wash Cold, tumble dry low.


This is a moisture wicking athletic knit in dusty pink.  I purchased one yard and it is an extra wide fabric.  This is enough for a top.  I just could not resist this color.  Care: machine wash cold, tumble dry low.

I guess that is enough of my confessions for now.  All I know is I need to sew sew sew.

Happy Stitching!

Thursday, July 6, 2023

Inspiration...Button Down Shirt

 It is time to start thinking about wardrobe addition for cooler weather and this one is a classic:


This is the Wright Button Down Cotton-Blend Shirt by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $598.00.  Details:  approximately 25-inches from shoulder to hem, spread collar, concealed button from, single button split cuff, long sleeves approximately 30 1/2-inches, back yoke, rounded hem, relaxed fit.

The cuff is very interesting.  Here is a close-up:


I like the look of this cuff.  I would have to play a bit to recreate the cuff.  If you are going to have a white shirt, why not have a fun cuff on it?

I am going to go with my standard classic shirt pattern:


This is the Classic Shirt pattern by Liesl & Co.  Changes needed would be the front placket and the cuff.  I am all for taking a pattern and using it over and over.  It reduces the amount of time on fitting and increasing the enjoyment of sewing.  Along with saving money to spend more on fabric. 

As far as the concealed button front instructions, there are links to a couple of tutorials here. The cuff, I am not sure about.  It would be an experiment.  If I decide to try and figure it out, I will post a tutorial.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful for your wardrobe.

Happy Stitching!

Wednesday, July 5, 2023

itch to Stitch...Icaria Pants

 Itch to Stitch new Icaria Pants are a great looking pull-on pant.  The pdf pattern will be on sale through July 10th.  Here is the line drawings:

This pant has the following options:
  • pull-on elastic waist
  • sits at natural waist
  • two length options with the ability to further shorten or lengthen
  • front slant pockets
  • wide legs with relaxed fit
  • designed for fluid woven fabrics
This pattern comes in sizes 00-40 and is rated beginner +.  Here is an idea of the type of fabric: rayon twill, crepe, tencel  twill.

Check out the Icaria Pant blog post to see the many variations made by the testers.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.  All purchasing discounts still apply.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!




Tuesday, July 4, 2023

Black & White Shift Dress...

 When back in March, I had an inspiration dress that I really loved.  Here is the dress:


The link above is for the post which gives the details on the dress.  Here is the fabric that I found:


Not an exact match but close enough to get the idea.  Yes, I am going to use the Butterick 6500 pattern.  It is already fitted, well mostly. I made changes to the armscye opening returning it closer to the original drafting of the pattern.  Here is a glance at the pattern cover:


I will not be lining the dress this time but I will be using a one-piece facing which gives a very clean look to the dress.  Since the facing is already drafted, I used this video to assist with the attaching and turning of the garment.  This video will work as well.  Two methods that both work well.  Here is a couple of places to find information on installing an invisible zipper - method 1 and method 2,  Invisible zipper is not needed for the dress but I like the invisible zippers.

Here is the finished dress:



Now, I just need some new accessories like a long necklace or a different pair of shoes.

Happy Stitching!



Monday, July 3, 2023

Inspiration...Tank Top

 When it is hot out, I spend most of my time in dress or a tank and a skirt.  This is a great little tank:


This is the Fringed Denim Tank Top by Akris Punto. Price tag: $495.00. Details:  stretch denim with fringe detail, crew neckline, sleeveless, relaxed fit, invisible back zip, cotton/spandex, dry-clean.  

This reminds me very much of my favorite tank top pattern from fabrics-store.com - The Phoebe Tank:


The changes would be to create a yoke so that you could insert the fringe.  The best part is this is a free pattern and fairly easy to fit. 

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!