Rhapsody Round Two...

 I think this will definitely be the last spring/summer top for this season.  I purchased this fabric back in February specifically for the Rhapsody Blouse:

This is a rayon challis and was actually perfect for the Rhapsody blouse.  You can see my original muslin here, and the first wearable blouse here.

I can really see why people love this blouse.  With the exception of the binding, it is fast.  Here is the second wearable blouse:

Overall, I am pleased with this top.  I had added a little more space in the bodice while keeping the yoke the same.  I added 1/2-inch in the middle of the front bodice and just added more gathers.  The back bodice was placed 1/2-inch from the fold.  This gave me and added 2-inches all the way around.  Here is the sides and back:

  

The top may still be a bit long in the back.  I like the length in the front.  I still have a little bit of poofing at the back of the sleeve.  I thought I had taken care of the that but I do not know what is causing it.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I am planning on more Rhapsody but it will be a long sleeved version for fall/winter and I am planning to change the neckline just a little bit.

Happy Stitching!

Rhapsody Revisited...

 I am finally getting back to the Rhapsody Blouse by Love Notions.  This is a much loved pattern and I hope I can get it to work.  My first attempt at the Rhapsody Blouse was an exercise in picking the wrong size.  Folks, I know to check the pattern before cutting.  No idea why I did not.  So, I have now reprinted a different size of the pattern and have applied the length changes that I know that I need.  Here is the finally result:

Not sure about the weirdness in the top photo but hopefully, you can get an idea of the changes that were made.

I do have more of that cute fabric from the first muslin so that is that fabric that I am using.  Here are the results of the second muslin:

I used a straight XL with the full bust option this time. That did not match up with the sizing instructions but measuring the pattern told me to do this.  

Overall evaluations:  The top fits.  I feel like it might be a little on the snug side but that is easy to fix by adding a little bit to the bodice width.  It is possible that the small change could create more changes. Overall I'm happy.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Cigarette Pants

 ...and I thought wide legged pants were going to continue.  Here is a pair of cigarette pants:

This is the Manhattan Cotton Twill Cigarette Pants by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $698.00.  Details:  flat front, side slant pockets, back welt pockets, side slit hems, cropped at ankle, slim tapered legs, fly zip, belt loops, rise approximately 10 1/4-inches, 29-inch inseam.

This is a very neutral outfit to take you right into fall.  Now, what patterns would be best?  I can think of two but neither are perfect but would get the look.  Here are the options:

This is the Seamwork Clover Pants.  You get the overall look of the Cigarette Pants just not all the details.

This is the Love Notions Sabrina Slims.  Again, you can achieve the look but not all the details.

I think there is plenty to think about here.  What do you think about the Cigarette Pants?

Happy Stitching!

Wardrobe Considerations...The Overall Plan

 Here is the sewing plan with pattern selections, fabric selections, and color:

• Liesl & Co Peckham Trouser in navy and gray.  Fabric will be cotton twill.
• Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt in teal. Fabric will be a cotton sateen.
• Liesl & Co Classic Shirt in pink and gray.  Fabric will be a cotton pique and cotton oxford cloth.
• Love Notions Classic Tee in navy.  Fabric will be a cotton/lycra jersey.
• Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse in teal.  Fabric will be a solid challis.
• Seamwork Flor Cardigan in gray.  Fabric will be a knit of some sort.
• Liesl & Co Classic Shirt dress length in pink.  Fabric unknown at this time.
• McCall's 7818 jacket in navy.  Fabric unknown at this time but would be nice if matched first item.

Whew!  That is a lot of sewing.  I do need to track back to the  "Starting From Scratch" series at the Vivienne Files.  Just to make sure that I am on track.   

Of this items, the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt, Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt are fitted.  I am in the process of fitting the Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse.  That leaves the Liesl & Co Peckham Trousers, Seamwork Flor, and McCall's 7818 jacket to be fitted.  That is a lot of fitting.  I really do want the trousers fitted though and will be starting with them first.

 Do you think this is too far in front of the season to start planning?  Have you tried this?  It would really be nice to get ahead of a season and not be sewing like mad to make something to wear right now.

Hope you are inspired to sew.

Happy Stitching!

Wardrobe Considerations...On Going Decisions 2

We are now moving on to tops.  The AI suggested many top patterns but the only one that I took was the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.   The other tops pattern will be the Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse and the Love Notions Classic Tee Shirt.  Here are the line drawings:

Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  These will be mostly easy.  There will be two shirts with colors of pink and grey.

This is Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse & Dress pattern.  Lots of options with this one.  I am currently working on fitting this blouse.  There will be one shirt in teal.  I might add another one in navy (AI suggested item.

This is Love Notions Classic Tee Shirt.  This pattern has several options. I may need to refit this pattern.   It should be a good option for a good, everyday type top.  This one will be in navy.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Pullover Dress

 This inspiration dress is very casual and lots of fun:

This is the Lily Pullilzer  UPF 50+ ChillyLilly Mandi Dress.  Price tag:  $198.00.  Details:  straight fit, shorter sleeves, 37-inches from shoulder to hem (based on size 4), fits chest and hips with more room at waist.  

If I lived near a beach, this print would be perfect.  I do not but I love the silloutte.  The first pattern that I thought of was Love Notions Frankie Polo:

In the Lily Pulitzer way, I found this fabric:

This is the Cheerful Summer Floral jersey knit* from knitfabric*. This is such a fun knit.  I would be tempted to use a sold fabric for the collar.

This is the Sunshine Floral jersey knit* from knitfabric*. This is such a fun knit.  

This is the Cobalt Heavyweight Cotton Lycra knit* from knitfabric*.  This is a more practical everyday type of knit. 

There are tons of knits fabrics at knitfabric*.  You should check them out.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.  Also the inspiration is a nylon/lycra knit, so consider that type of fabric as well.

*I am an affililiate of knitfabric.  If you purchase something through one of my links, I will get a small commission at no cost to you.

Happy Stitching!

Rhapsody Muslin...

 I am starting my spring/summer sewing with the Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse.  Here is the line drawings:

This pattern has lots of options. There are two length options and nine sleeve options.  The muslin will be the cap sleeve with the neckline ties.  The fabric that I am going to use for the muslin is this fabric that I purchased earlier in March. When that fabric was washed, it turned into a nice piece of fabric.  

Here is a little look at my modified pattern:

Lots of length changes.  I have been following Karina at Lifting Pins and Needles and following her tips on making wovens tops.  So far, it has been worth the effort.  (Yes, I noticed that a kitty had been chewing on one of the pattern pieces.)

Here is the muslin:

Well after all the work, I realized that I had selected the wrong size for the top portion of the bodice.  I will not say that the top is tight but it is definitely too narrow.  Funny thing is that with every pattern from Love Notions I have made the same mistake but went up a size because I did not believe I could wear that size.  Now, I know for sure that my initial instinct was correct.  The top is always very long and needs 2 to 3 inches removed.

With luck, I will be able to reuse this fabric for another muslin.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Shirtdress

This is one piece dressing at it's best:

This is the Claudine Drawstring-Waist Linen Maxi Shirtdress by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $798.00.  Details:  peter pan collar, half button front, short sleeves, rolled cuffs, drawstring cinched waist, side slip pockets, a-line silhouette, side slit about 15 3/4-inches, linen, dry-clean, approximately 52 1/2-inches from shoulder to hem.  

My first thought for a pattern was this:

This is the Love Notions Melody Dolman pdf pattern.  The collar is different which I think I would prefer, the pattern would need to be lengthened, and converted to a pull over. All are doable.  If you already have this pattern,  all you need to do is locate some linen or a linen blend. 

Obviously if you already have a similar pattern, use it.  Save those dollars for fabric or notions.

Happy Stitching!

Go To Patterns...

 Do you have go to patterns that seem to always be in rotation?  I seem to have collected a few.  Here are my favorites:

1.  Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern. The hard part was fitting this pattern.  Once the fitting was accomplished, I have made a couple of long shirted shirts and a popover dress.  I need to make a couple of shirts for warm weather.  

2.  Fabrics-store.com Phoebe Tank.  This is a freebie for registered people.  Once the fitting is finished, you have a great warm weather top.  I have made at least seven of this tanks.  It really is time to mix up a little bit by making some minor changes.  Every time I make new tanks, I evaluate the fit and make tweaks.

3.  Pamela's Patterns The Magic Pencil Skirt.  Oh, this one is a quickie.  Need a skirt in a flash?  This one is it as long as it is a stretch fabric.  I have at least four versions of this and one is hand sewn in the Alabama Chanin style.

4.  Love Notions Allegro Bottoms.  This is another quickie once it is fitted. I've made at least four pairs of pants and one skirt.  No doubt, there will be more in the future.

5.  Merchant & Mills Camber Set.  I purchased this pattern to make the top but have yet to do it.  However, the dress is wonderful.  I have three versions and love them all but the linen one is my favorite.  Maybe next year the top will get made.

I am still looking for a good t-shirt pattern, a blazer jacket pattern, trousers, woven tops that are different from the classic shirt and the tank.  

What are your favorite patterns?  Are they quick items to make or are they a classic pattern for you?

Happy Stitching!

A Little Planning...

 Last year when I was putting away my spring and summer items, I took the time to write down what I had.  I was very surprised at how long the list was.  Here's my list:

• 11 dresses
• 2 skirts
• 6 pants
• 7 tank tops
• 2 woven shirts
• 3 knit tops

This is just the items that I packed away.  There are more knits tops, jeans (many), pants, etc.  Why do I need so many clothes?  Even with the number of clothes that I have, there are days that I can not figure out what to wear.  Things that I specifically do not have is appropriate funeral attire and dressy get together stuff.  

In looking at the list, I think I need to concentrate on some woven tops.  I have pants that would qualify as "dressy" but I lack the top to finish the outfit.  Maybe it is time to really weed out the closet and take more stuff out.  I am hoping that the stash will yield appropriate fabric.  

In this post, I talked about making another dress and a skirt.  I do intend to make both of those items.  I few woven tops/blouse would benefit my wardrobe. Stash patterns that I am considering:

• Love Notions Melody Dolman.  Needs to be fitted.
• Itch to Stitch Nosara Shirt.  Needs to be fitted.  Yes, it is similar to the Melody Dolman but more shirt like.
• Love Notions Vivace Dolman.  Needs to be fitted.
• Itch to Stitch Seychelles Top. Needs to be fitted.
• Itch to Stitch Nittany Top.  Needs to be fitted.

This is just a few of my patterns.  Some of these tops lean toward the very casual and some of them are a little more dressy so that the fabric will make the top speak.  The part that slows me down is that they all need fitting.  I think I have a muslin of the melody dolman already made but I do not remember what size I chose.

This year I opted not to participate in the Seamwork Design Your Wardrobe class.  I have worked through the  parts of the class I wanted to through the last 3 or 4 years.  I tend to make long lists of things to complete and do not need the added pressure this year of trying to do too much.  I want to let my creative soar a little bit and sew more than clothes.  The Design Your Wardrobe class is really good to make yourself look at what you need in your wardrobe.  It really helped me to focus more on the fabric in my stash.  I will continue to do that this year.  The stash feels like a wasted resource.  It does yield up fabric for muslins and more.  There is just too much fabric.  

I am working on my slipcovers right now but I am ready to work on something else for a day or two. I think I will pick on of the patterns above and make or redo a muslin to check the fit.

I am an Itch to Stitch and Seamwork affiliate.  Any purchases made via the above links will result in a small commission.  Thank you!

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Polo Top

 I am always looking for interesting tops.  This one is very interesting especially if you are a knit sewer with lots of extra small pieces:

This is the Ribbed Knit Wool Polo Top with Color Block Color by Akris Punto. Price tag: $495.00.  Details:  spread collar, v-neckline, short sleeves, hip length, fitted, pullover style.  Here's a view of just the top:

What you can not see unless you zoom in is that the body of top is done is a ribbed knit.  I do not live in climate where I would wear a short-sleeved wool knit.  However, I can see this done is a cotton knit or cotton blend or a good activewear.   I know the almost perfect pattern:

This is the Love Notions Frankie Polo pdf pattern.  You would only need to modify the sleeves a little bit, if you chose.  

Hope you are inspired to pull out that box/bag of knit pieces and get creative.

Happy Stitching!

A Look Back At 2023 Sewing...

 As I look back at my sewing for 2023, I found that I did not do much sewing.  My sewjo really took at vacation.  It did slow down my purchasing both fabric and patterns. Here is what I found:

Most sewn patterns:

1.  Fabrics-store dot com Phoebe Tank.  This is easily the most sewn pattern I have ever owned and it was free.  

2.  Love Notions Allegro Bottoms.  This is a great elastic waist pant pattern with pockets.

3.  Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  This is a great basic.  Designer has tons of information on the website about this pattern.  Definitely will change over to short sleeves for spring.

Most loved patterns:

1.  Merchant & Mills The Camber Set.  I have made this dress multiple times.  Quick and easy.  The dress that I made this year with it was a linen blend.  The linen was definite perfect for the pattern.

2.  Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt.  This is another great basic.  This is not as quick and easy as item 1 but still a good one. 

Most disliked item that I made:

1.  Blue-gray Phoebe tank.  Not sure why I did not love this top.  I thought for sure that I would love this but the fabric was a little different with this one and I just did not find myself reaching for it very often. In fact, everything else had to be dirty for me to even considerate it.  

2023 Sewing Reflection:

I realized that I did not do as much non-apparel sewing as I had intended in 2023.  As much as I love sewing apparel, other things are more creative. Maybe that was what caused the sewjo vacation.  I also realize that I did not come close to accomplishing my list of goals that I made for 2023.   All I can do is keep trying.

How did your 2023 sewing end up for you?  Were you happy with what you accomplished?  

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Oversized Checked Button-Down

 Spring looks have caught my attention.  Here is a nice button down that is a little different:

This is the Oversized Checked-Print Button-Down Shirt by Lafayette 148 New York. Price tag: $698.00.  Details:  Approximately 34 1/2-inches from shoulder to hem, spread collar, hidden button placket, short sleeves, chest patch pocket, shirt tail hem, oversized fit, cotton, unlined.  For reference, model is 5'10".  Here is a back view as I think you need to see the sleeve:

I think the sleeve is a sweet little detail with the pleats and button cuff.  Here are a couple of other details that are not mentioned above - it has a dolman sleeve, the cuff is on the bias.  Here is a couple of pattern ideas:

This is the Nosara Shirt pdf pattern by Itch To Stitch (affiliate link).  This pattern would need to be lengthened, bias band added, hidden button placket,  and modification to the back if you want that sleeve detail.  

This is the Melody Dolman by Love Notions.  I think this pattern would only need to be lengthened, add the hidden button placket, and sleeve detail.  

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching! 

Stitching, Stitching, Stitching...Working on the Love Notions Octave Coat

 I am slowing getting my planned projects going for fall/winter.  The next project is the Love Notions Octave Coat.  The pattern and instructions have been printed.  Next, will be taping the pattern together.  That is the down fall of a pdf pattern but you can print it as many times as you need which is a plus.  I noticed this past week that the pattern had been updated.  As far as I can tell the change is adding a new lapel.  Then, I saw that there was a new class for the Octave Coat available.  So it was a yes please, I will take that class.  Another benefit is that by taking the class you get instructions for making a zipped version of the coat.  

This will probably be a slow sew for me.  I never seem to get things done quickly any more.  Even when it should be a quick project.  Just does not happen.  However, the weather has decided to cool off and I really meant for this to be done before that happened.  I am not planning for this to be a heavy coat more like an intermediate coat as the fabric is a suiting weight.  This will be the first coat that I can remember making.  I hope it goes well.

How has your sewing been going?  Have you made a coat before?  How did it turn out?

Happy Stitching!

Classic Tee...

 I have made a lot of t-shirts.  I never had an issue with the neckband until this fabric:

It is 100% cotton jersey which in my mind should have been perfect for a t-shirt.  Not so much.  I have decided that never again will I attempt a cotton jersey for t-shirt.  I really think that the only way a jersey will work for a neckband is if it has lycra in it.  I never had a neckband stand out from my body before.  I did make an alteration to this pattern by raising the neckline.  I very carefully measured the neckline and calculated the size that the neckband needed to be.  Of course, I did not notice the problem until after the neckband had attached by the serger and then the coverstitch.  Of yeah, I had fun removing those stitches.  

After the removal, I double-checked the length of the neckline on the top against the pattern.  The neckline was fine.  The only thing that was not was the neckband. It had stretched by approximately 3-inches.  I cut out another neckband from the fabric.  After some consideration, I decided that might not be a good idea.  Why would I expect different results with the same fabric?  

Now, I started considering different finishing options.  I could serge the edge, turn, and coverstitch but that would defeat raising the neckline.  Then, I thought maybe I could find some white ribbing and attach it with the serger.  The stash did indeed yield some white ribbing.  Here is the results:

The tee turned out okay.  I am happy that I was able to save the top because I really like the print and color.  I will avoid 100% cotton jersey in the future for a t-shirt with a neckband.  I am guessing that the issue is a mismatch between the fabric and the pattern.  Overall, this will be a much needed top in the wardrobe. It fits a little better than what I can purchase. The pattern needs a little more tweaking. 

Happy Stitching!

First Planned Project For Fall/Winter 2023...

The sewjo went missing for a while so I started planning projects for fall/winter.  You know I did not look toward the stash for the fabrics.  The pattern has been stashed for a while.  Here is the pattern:

This is the Octave Coat pattern by Love Notions.  When this pattern was released, I was very drawn to the jacket with the faux fur collar.  I have decided to do a relatively lightweight coat/jacket.  I have a coat for extreme cold which does not last long here.  I do not have a coat for mild weather.  I can make my own.  Here is the fabric:

This is a loopy polyester/rayon fabric.  I was very happy when this fabric arrived.  It would be great as pants/jacket/skirt.  No visible right side either.  I am considering using a solid fabric for the collar.  This is one that I recently purchased on a whim:

This is a vegan leather.  I have one yard and I do not know if that is enough for the collar.  It might work and it might not.

Here is the lining fabric:

I was sad to find out that the company that made my favorite lining is no longer in business.  This fabric is the Sunline Anti-Static Lining Fabric from JoAnn.  I purchased 2 1/2 yards.   Care is Machine Wash Cold, Line Dry.  I have not used this lining before.  Hope it is good.

I guess the next step is to do a muslin of the pattern.  I think that I might have some bits and pieces of canvas hanging around from other muslins.  I am mainly concerned with the bust placement and the sleeve size.  I want the coat to have enough ease that I can wear a sweater under it.

One thing I know for sure is that the coat muslin will not get started until I finish my summer clothes.

Happy Stitching!

More Fabric...

 I have been trying really hard not to purchase anymore fabric but sometimes I just can not resist.  Here are the latest purchases:

I purchased 2 yards of the denim jacquard.  I just love this type of fabric.  This is enough for a pair of pants or a dress.  It could end up as the Love Notions Duet Trousers or New Look 6500 shift dress.  Only time will tell.  Care: Machine Wash Cold, tumble dry low.

This is a moisture wicking athletic knit in dusty pink.  I purchased one yard and it is an extra wide fabric.  This is enough for a top.  I just could not resist this color.  Care: machine wash cold, tumble dry low.

I guess that is enough of my confessions for now.  All I know is I need to sew sew sew.

Happy Stitching!

And One More Fabric...

Imagine my surprise when I opened my Fabric Mart package and found four fabrics and not three as I had thought. I checked my order receipt online and it showed three fabrcis. Then I noticed at the very bottom "View all ordered items" and clicked. Magically, the fourth fabric showed up. Here it is:

This is 100% rayon challis. It is machine washable - gentle cycle.  I purchased 2 1/4 yards.  This is intended to be a Love Notions Cadence Top with short sleeves.  It seems like a lot of fabric but I guess I will find out. 

Happy Stitching!

Fabric, fabric, fabric...

 Fabric keeps coming in.  I suppose if I was not looking it would not be coming. Here is the latest purchases:

This is a blue/white 100% cotton jersey.  It should be pure luxury.  I purchased 1 1/4 yards to make a Love Notions classic t-shirt.  Machine wash.

This is a black/white rayon/nylon/lycra bengaline suiting.  It should be perfect for a pair of pants.  I got 2 yards. Washing is gentle care.  My intentions is for either one of the Love Notions patterns or maybe, Clover pant.

This is a black/white polyester/rayon loopy tweed suiting.  I thought this would be perfect for the Love Notions Octave Coat.  I have some stretch faux leather that might just match for a contrasting collar.  Purchased 3 1/2 yds.  Machine care:  gentle wash.

I have no idea where I am going to put this fabric because folks I am full.  In fact, I am past full.  

Happy Stitching!

I Just Can Not Stop Myself...

 What can I not stop myself from doing?  Buying patterns.  I have slowed the fabric buying down immensely.  Here is the line drawing of my latest purchase:

Yep, this is the Love Notions Cadence Dress and Top pdf pattern.  It was on sale this past Friday and since it is like a woven t-shirt I decided to get it.  There are a lot of options with this pattern - 2 necklines, 5 sleeves, 3 lengths, and a full bust option. 

I do not know when I will get to this but hopefully before the end of summer.

Do you find yourself purchasing patterns?  

Happy Stitching!