Tuesday, January 31, 2023

Willow Tank - 1st Muslin...

 Following last week's measuring session, I have cut out and stitched a muslin of the Willow Tank.  I am pleasantly surprised.  The fit was not too bad but I would say I mismeasured on the armhole depth because it is really tight. Making a mistake on the first length measurement has repercussions all the down the garment.  Here are the photos:


As expected, there are depth issues. The bust dart needs to be a bit larger.  You can see the diagonals wrinkles going from the bust to the hem.  The bust dart is actually a little too high which is partially due to the armhole depth being too small.  It could also be an bra issue as I have a different bra on now verses when I did the measurements.


Now you can really see the depths issues with the cup sizing and the dart being too high.  I can also see an ever so slight indication that I need a little more space for my back.  A small high round back alteration.  


Mostly the same issues are the left side.


You can see the issue with the armhole depth here.  The arnscye is really tight in the back.  As far as the wrinkling in the back.  I am going to leave it for now.   When I open the side seams for the draping of the dart, it may show I need more circumference.  

Changes that I will do on this muslin:

    1.  Insert 1/2" of fabric for armhole height.

    2.  Drape dart.

    3.  May add a high round back adjustment.

    4.  Double check circumference at hip.  I do not think that I actually did this when I was measuring.  

Hopefully, I can get back to this quickly.  My mom is moving to an apartment very soon and I seem to be the main packer.

Happy Stitching!

Monday, January 30, 2023

Inspiration...Shirtdress

 Spring is coming and shirtdresses are still hanging on.  Here is an interesting one:




This is the Akris Punto Striped Cinched-Waist Cotton Popeline Shirtdress.  Price tag: $1290.00.  Details: spread collar, concealed front placket, long sleeves, button cuffs, drawstring cinched waist, side pockets, a-line silhouette, knee length, side split hem.  Model is 5'10".  Dress found at Neiman Marcus.

Things that I like about this dress is the stripe and the cinched waist.  This type of dress would be a great every day dress.  I am not sure that I would go to the effort to do the concealed placket.  Directions for a concealed placket here.

For me this is an easy pick on the pattern.  I would use this pattern:


This is the Liesl + Co. Classic Shirt pattern (affiliate link).  This is about as classic as you can get for a button-down.  Changes that I would make are lengthen the pattern, consider the hidden placket, add side pockets, create the a-line silhouette.  Other decisions might be sleeve length.  If it was made short sleeve or sleeveless, you could add a cardigan for early spring and have something that you could possibly wear through fall. 

This pattern is a good option for me as I have already fitted the pattern.  If you already have a shirt pattern fitted, use it.  Save those bucks for more fabric. 

Links on this page are affiliate links.  Should you use one of the affiliate links to make a purchase, I would receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you!

Happy Stitching!

Friday, January 27, 2023

Another Pattern...

 Try as I might, I am stilling purchasing patterns.  I will admit that the purchasing has slowed down.  Here is the latest pattern that I could not live without:


This looks like the perfect trouser pattern.  For those who sew for their guys, there is a pdf version for men.  This is the first paper pattern that I have purchased online in a while and the shipping costs shocked me.  

I hope that I can get to this pant fairly soon.  I do have a lot on my plate right now but I squeeze in some type of sewing activity as often as I can.  I would really like some better fitting trouser style pants for this summer.  The ones that I purchased last year will most likely be too big as I have lost weight and they were already on the loose side.

Happy Stitching!

Thursday, January 26, 2023

Starting The Project List...The Willow Tank

 Today, I started working on my Project List.  I have started with the Willow Tank pattern by Grainline Studio.  I started here because I have space to work it instead of one of the larger projects.  Here is a view of the Willow Tank:



I purchased this pattern a couple of years ago thinking I would make some new tanks for the following summer.  Did not happen.  

I traced a size 18 and I am now checking the lengths on the pattern.  I know that there will be depth issues because this pattern is drafted for a B cup but that will easily be taken care of once I have a muslin made.  Well, I actually traced the pattern last summer or fall and it seems that I have lost weight which has resulted in needing a size 16 instead of the size 18.  It is a shocker.

Now, repeating the same exercise with the size 16 instead of the size 18.  Here is the pattern pieces with marking at the bust, armhole, waist, hip, and marking for making lengths changes:



Now, the interesting part happening.  I started measuring and was very surprised.  I knew that I was short between high bust and shoulder but was surprised to see how much.  I knew that my torso was long.  Here is the changed pattern:



I reduced the length of the upper torso through the armscye by 1 1/2 inches.  That is a lot.  I added 3/4-inch above the bust and 2-inches above the waist.  All I can say is wow.  

This is an experiment on part.  I have never been one to change the pattern before making a muslin.  I am following along with Katrina in Lifting Pins and Needles on the Let's Sew Our Best Fitting Woven Top Series.  Check it out.  

Next, I will make a muslin and see how it looks.  My muslins are almost always snipped and tucked.  I do expect to increase the dart.  I generally do this with the muslin and then make the changes to the pattern.  I will see if doing the length changes a head of time make short work of the muslin.  

Some links on this page are affiliate links.  Should you use one of the affiliate links to make a purchase, I would receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you!

Happy Stitching!

Tuesday, January 24, 2023

Could Not Resist....

 I have been working hard at not increasing the size of my stash both fabric and pattern. However earlier in the month I did an inspiration post that I really loved the dress and the pattern was perfect for duplicating the dress.  This is actually a rarity to find but it does occasionally happen.  JoAnn's was having a pattern sale so I picked up this pattern:


 Here is the line drawing:


My thoughts is a sleeveless version with the V-neckline just like the inspiration photo.  Now, I just need to locate some fabric that will be appropriate.  You know that the fabric needed is not in the stash because that is how the new and shiny is.

If the right fabric is picked, this could go from May to September.  The last 4 years I have had most everything be sleeveless and just add a cardigan or wrap if needed.  I can not tolerate the heat any more.

Happy Stitching!


Monday, January 23, 2023

New Jacket Pattern - Itch To Stitch Nazare Zip-Up Hoodie Pattern...

 Itch To Stitch has created a very cute hoodie pattern.  The Nazare Zip-Up Hoodie PDF pattern has very interesting lines.  It will be on sale at 20% off through January 29, 2023.  Here is the line drawing:


This is definitely an every day type of jacket.  Features:

- Options for regular or full bust,

- Diagonal front seams for style and fit,

- Large front patch pockets with curved openings,

- Front exposed zipper,

- Two piece hood.

- Bottom band. and

- Designed for sweatshirting or stable knit fabric.

Be sure to check out the blog post for all the interesting hoodies made by the testers.  In regard to the sale for the pattern, all existing discounts apply.

I am an affiliate of Itch to Stitch.  Any purchases made through my links will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.  Thank you!

Happy Stitching!



Inspiration...Sleeveless Button-Down Blouse

 Continuing down the path of spring/summer sewing, here is a sleeveless button-down blouse:


This is the Lafayette 148 New York Sleeveless Button-Down Blouse.  Price tag: $698.00.  Details:  Silk blouse with floral print and self piping detail, approximately 24-inches from shoulder to hem, peter pan collar, button front, sleeveless, and relaxed fit.  Not mentioned but clearly seen is the fabric the blouse has covered buttons.  Model is 5'10".   Found at Neiman Marcus.  Shown as an outfit with white jeans.

For me this is an easy pick on the pattern.  I would use this pattern:


This is the Liesl + Co. Classic Shirt pattern (affiliate link).  This is about as classic as you can get for a button-down.  The changes that I would make would be to not make the button placket but follow directions for the under portion of the bodice, change shape of collar if I chose, straighten the hem, and omit the sleeves and pockets.  

This pattern is a good option for me as I have already fitted the pattern.  If you already have a shirt pattern fitted, use it.  Save those bucks for more fabric. 

Links on this page are affiliate links.  Should you use one of the affiliate links to make a purchase, I would receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you!

Happy Stitching!

Thursday, January 19, 2023

First Rope Bowl...

 I could not resist playing with the rope more.  It is such an addictive process.  I played until I ran out of thread which means that I get to make a trip to JoAnn Fabrics.   I am going to try a little rope bracelet also so I will look at the buttons while I am there.  Here is my very first attempt at a bowl:


I know it is not much to look at but I am rather proud of it.  It measure 6 to 7 inches at the base and is about 3 inches tall.  No idea what I will do with it.  One thing is for sure I will try a larger diameter on the rope.  The rope that I got was 3/16-inch.  I think 1/4-inch or 3/8-inch rope would be a bit better.  

Okay, I will be starting clothing projects soon.  I really need to make some new tank tops this year and I definitely want to have them done before warm weather is here.  

Happy Stitching!

Tuesday, January 17, 2023

Stitching Again!

 It has been a long 6-7 weeks of not being able to sew because of my knee/knee brace.  However, the velcro on the knee brace needed replacing and it is hard to realize that a knee brace that costs just less than $1000 could not last through the time needed to wear it.  Yes, that meant that I was stitching without my brace on but I was very careful while I worked on the replacing the velcro on the knee brace.  

I can not express how happy it made me to be able to sit down at a machine and stitch.  Even if it was a repair.  Later in the day, I decided that I needed more time in front of the sewing machine.  Before my little accident, I was wanting to play with rope and had purchase 100 feet.  I had borrowed books from the library.  Then, accident, unable to sew, and books returned.  I did read through the books though.  So, here is my very first rope project - a little trivet:


I am so pleased with this little trivet.  Not sure exactly what size is but fit in the arm of my sewing machine so maybe 7-8 inches and I used 30 to 40 feet of rope.  I can see why this is so addictive.  It is easy sewing and can be very creative.  I used a natural cotton rope 3/8" with a natural cotton colored thread.  Image all the fun that can be had using different threads both solid and variegated. little bits of fabric, or even different colored ropes.  However, I can not let this enthusiasm take over from my list of projects but it will certainly have a place among the list of things to do as I can have fun.  Just so you know my list is rather fluid.  It has to be for me to enjoy what I am doing.  

Happy Stitching!

Monday, January 16, 2023

Inspiration...Jacket and Pants

 Matching jacket and pants seem to be trending.  For those who work, this is a great look:


This is the Lafayette 148 New York Single Breasted Boyfriend Blazer and Sullivan Wide-Leg Wool Pants.  Price tag:  Blazer - $1598.00, Pants - $998.00.  Details:  Jacket - topstitching detail, notched collar, single breasted front, long sleeves, front welt pockets, relaxed fit, wool/viscose fabric; Pants - wool. 33" inseam, 43 1/2" outseam, mid-rise sits high on hip, flat front side seam pockets, welt back pockets, full length, zip fly, belt loops, wide legs.   Model is 5'10".

I found a couple of patterns that would be suitable for the jacket:


This is McCall's 7818.  It is a unisex jacket that would fit the boyfriend look.  

This is Simplicity 8697.  It is an unlined boyfriend jacket.


This is the Protea Pants by Paradis Patterns.  This is kinda a two for one pattern. There is a flat front pant and a pleated pant.  

Claire Shaeffer had a pattern for Vogue that would work but it looks like it has been discontinued.  

Happy Stitching!

Monday, January 9, 2023

Inspiration...Sleeveless Dress

 It is time to start thinking spring/summer if you are in the northern hemisphere.  Here is a great sleeveless dress:


This is the Lafayette 148 New York Sleeveless Floral Maxi Dress.  Price tag: $1998.00.  Details:  floral toile print, v neck, sleeveless, princess seams, mid-calf length, a line silhouette, back invisible zipper, viscose/polyester/elastane, partially lined.  Model is 5'10".

This is pretty close to perfect except for that price tag.  Here is a pattern that could easily be used:


This is Butterick 6850. It is a fit & flare pattern with two necklines, two sleeves, and sleeveless.  The pattern is for woven.

This dress could easily be made for anytime of year using this pattern.  Imagine fitting once and making three times.  More bang for your buck.

Happy Stitching!

Thursday, January 5, 2023

Sewing Room Update...

 While I have been unable to sew due to my knee, I have been working on rearranging at little.  I had a new peg board installed and I am currently filling it up.  Here is a little look:


My husband built a tiny little shelve to put ironing stuff on:


My husband built a little table to put my serger on.  I have not tested it to make sure that it is stable but here it is:


Then I did a little bit of decorating.  Buttons and needles, and a clock:



There is still tons of stuff to do in my little room.  I have lots of vertical space in the room and a huge closet but it feels overwhelming right now as there is too much stuff crammed in.  I  will periodically update my accomplishments as I go.

I think I need to revisit my sewing room organization chart.  It has changed a wee bit since the last time I updated on the blog.  My son moved in late in 2020 and stayed until this past August.  That resulted in more stuff being stuffed into already full room.  

Happy Stitching!

Monday, January 2, 2023

A Look Back...2022 Sewing Winners

 The year of 2022 was incredibly busy which limited my sewing a little bit.  I did manage to finish one long term ufo - a quilt:


There are multiple posts on the blog regarding this quilt.  You can read a little about it here.  

Just a blurb - some of the links may take you to pages that contain affiliate links.  If you purchase anything through these links, I will get a small commission.  Thank you!


Now, I'm going to say that most of things that I stitched this year were winners but not everything.  Here are the winners:


This Merchant & Mills Camber Set Dress was a winner.  It was worn weekly after it was made.  You can read about it here.  I think I need a couple of tops made with this pattern as well.


This Itch to Stitch Celeste Dress is a winner as well.  Once I figured out how to fit for this pattern company, it has been easy.  You can read about it here.



 This is the Itch to Stitch Soller Dress and Top.  These items were made late in summer and were fabulous.  Both made it into fall weather with a sweater when needed.  Loved and worn just about weekly.  You can read about it here.



This is a McCall's Camp Shirt pattern from the early 2000s.  It is the only shirt I made for my husband this year.  It is very much hobby themed and has been worn a lot.  You can read about it here.


This is the Love Notions Allegro Pant.  These pants have been worn a lot.  When the temperature gets in the 90s and above, I tend to wear dresses more but it is a great pant pattern.  You can read more about this pattern here

So, that is my short list of winners for last year.  Hope you enjoyed reading about the my winners.

Happy Stitching!

Sunday, January 1, 2023

2023 Project List...

 This year, I have decided to make a list of intended projects.  I do not think that I will apply time periods to them.  Just make the list and check it off.  Here is the list:

1.  Finish my son's quilt.  It just needs binding applied.

2.  New Christmas Tree Skirt - I have been saying this for years and have not accomplished it. This year is the year.

3.  Four Christmas pillows - these will be machined embroidered.  I have the fabric for one of the pillows. Need to locate trim for that pillow.

4.  Slipcovers - one chair, one ottoman, one loveseat.  I have 15 yards of fabric and one roll of cotton cording.  I know this will not be enough fabric or cording to cover all of these items.  I forgot to include the yardage for piping.  I have been working on the patterns.

5.  Fit the Willow Tank pattern. Add a couple of new tank tops for hot weather.

6.  Re-fit the fabrics-store.com Linen Tank.  This is probably my all time favorite tank.  It is a free pattern but is extremely well drafted.

7.  Fit the Love Notions T-shirt patterns.  There are two and I want to try both. 

8.  Finish a warm weather vest for my husband.  This was started in 2022 and I ran into an issue with the pattern.  It is a familiar complaint that the patterns tell you to use a particular length zipper but that length does not work with the pattern.  It is much easier to order the correct length zipper than to fix a zipper to the correct length.  Poor drafting.

9.   Finish an Alabama Chanin dress.

I suppose that is it for now.  Projects can always be added.  This list will keep me very busy if I choose to follow it.

In addition to the projects, I will re-organizing my sewing/craft room.  I think I need to rotate some stuff out to my storage unit.  Yeah, I know, I should not have a storage unit for my sewing stuff but I do.  I do freely allow others to store stuff in it because it is not full by any means.  I have too much stuff and can not seem to part with it.

Happy Stitching!