Linen and a change of plans...

I ordered some linen from The Confident Stitch.  The post is here.   I was going to make another The Factory Dress.  Here's the fabric:

This is Essex Yarn-Dyed Linen in Malibou.  This is a linen/cotton blend that is machine washable.  You can see it here at The Confident Stitch.  Other suitable linen fabrics are found here at The Confident Stitch.

This fabric would have made a perfect Factory Dress.  However, I miscalculated the fabric needed and it shrink about 5" of the 2 3/4 yards purchased.  Sigh!  I has taken me a while to find the perfect pattern for the fabric but I did it.  I will be making the Seamwork Dorian in a pant length. Here's the line drawing:

This is a member only bonus.  If you click on the Seamwork link, you can see the various options for becoming a member.  If you purchase using that link you will get a $3.00 discount and I will get a small benefit at no charge to you.   Here's a link to Dorian shorts pattern, you can see a picture of the pants on the same page or go to the June magazine.

Now I need to locate the perfect royal blue woven fabric for a top to match the pants.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Jacket and Skirt

Summer is going by quickly.  Fall will be here before we know it.  This inspiration is with fall in mind.  Here's a cute little outfit:

This is the Glen-Checked Crop Jacket and Glen Checked Gabardine A-Line Skirt by Akris punto.  Jacket Price tag:  $1390.00.  Skirt Price tag: $495.00.  Jacket details:  Spread collar, snap front, bracelet sleeves, hip patch pockets, back box pleats, cropped boxy fit, straight hem, rayon lining.  Skirt details: Mid-rise, concealed zip pockets, box pleated front, a-line silhouette, back slit, back zip, above knee.

As far as patterns go, the big 3 seemed to fail for both the jacket and the skirt.  Here's a pattern that gives a similar silhouette except it is not quite as boxy:

This is Vogue 1537 for the jacket.  You get the collar and the button up front with this.  You would need to crop the jacket.  If you are good at modification, you might even be able to make it a little more boxy like the inspiration picture.

This is the Study Hall Skirt pattern by Anna Maria.  This appears to be fairly close to the inspiration picture.  There are 2 pleats in the back also but I would think if you do not want them they would not need to be sewn.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Weekly Timeless Wardrobe, Week 47

Week 47 of the Weekly Timeless Wardrobe have arrived.  You can find Week 47 here.  The introduction chart is always a good place to start if you are just now bumping into this series.  Note: as the series progresses, the chart changes a wee bit.  It should be shown on the weekly posting at the bottom.

Week 47 is a neutral, light-weight top.  This could be any top you are interested in having in your closet.  Sleeveless top, tank top, t-shirt, etc.  The only thing that it really needs to be is something you will love.  If you zip back to Week 40, there are several of sleeveless top options offered.  Interested in a button-down, try the Seamwork Willis pattern (this is a member only pattern for June) or you could try the Seamwork Natalie pattern as is or sleeveless.  Who couldn't use another t-shirt?  Grab your favorite pattern.  

There are so many options.  Grab your favorite pattern(s) and get with it.

Happy Stitching!

(Affiliate links are included.  Purchase a Seamwork membership using provided links will provide a $3 discount off the membership and I will also get a small benefit.)

Seamwork Natalie...

Back in February, I was looking for my sewing mojo.  I had done very sewing at the first part of the year.  Of course that started changing in March when I moved in  with my parents for the next 3+ months.  I did not think when the covid-19 virus started that it would seemingly never end.  Back to sewing.  In February, I picked up a lovely rayon crepe with the intentions of making the Seamwork Natalie.  Fast forward and I have made many shirts between March and June.  Here is the muslin of the Natalie - here.

The Seamwork Natalie pattern is a classic campshirt style top.  In general, quick and easy.  Here's my finished version:

The pattern is very straight forward.  The only issue that I found when making the muslin was that the sleeves had to have gathering stitches to get them inserted smoothly.  Normally, I would have allowed the machine to do all the easing.  It was the same with this shirt.

Things that I changed:

1.  Eliminated the back facing and stitched the opening closed.
2.  Changed the way the hem was sewn slightly.  Instead of turning the hem and stitching, I turned the facing back and stitched where I wanted the hem, trimmed the excess hem, then stitched the hem.

The rayon crepe was a dream to sew with until I got to the topstitching.  The first attempt of the topstitching had to be removed as the fabric was shifting too much.  I ended up reducing the presser foot pressure, stitching very slowing, and using an awl to make the fabric behave.  I was a bit worried about the buttonholes and the creeping fabric but the buttonholes turned out just fine.

I am looking forward to wearing this shirt.  I also will not hesitate to purchase this type of fabric again.  I will think long and hard about using a pattern that requires a lot of topstitching.

A little about Seamwork, it is a subscription service.  You can purchase a monthly subscription or a yearly subscription.  You can read about the differences at the Seamwork website.  Using a Seamwork link will result in a $3.00 discount for you should you decide to purchase a subscription.  Most of the patterns are available for sale individually.  I will also get a small benefit should you decided to purchase a subscription at no cost to you.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Sleeveless Shirt

Sleeveless Shirt for hot summer days is perfect.

This is the Eileen Fisher Organic Handkerchief Linen Mandarin-Collar Sleeveless Shirt.  Price tag: $138.00.  Details:  Mandarin Collar, Sleeveless, relaxed silhouette, about 31" from shoulder to hem.  Here's the perfect pattern:

This is the Seamwork Willis pattern.  By leaving off the collar, you can get an almost identical look as to the inspiration picture.

This pattern is currently a members only pattern.  Here's a link to a membership page.  By following the link, you will get $3.00 off and I will also get a small benefit.

Hope you're inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Buttons, Button Placement, Etc.

Do you ever give the buttons on the front of your shirt any thought?  How about when you are making a shirt?  What happens when the button that you want is not in the size needed?

This recently happened to me.  I made this cute top and did not give any thought to the button size suggested in the pattern until the shirt was ready for the buttons and buttonhole.  Image my surprise when the button required was 3/8".  Oh, I have a huge button collection but few in that size and not in the color needed.  This meant that I had to go shopping (it is scary here because I am in a hot spot for the covid 19 virus).  So, I stopped at the Walmart closest to my parents house in hopes they that might have some buttons.  The area is still pretty cleared but there were bags of buttons in mixed sizes.  Nope, the smallest size is 7/16".  Yes, that would probably work but I choice not to make it work and look for the correct size.  Another day, I was close to JoAnn. They did have exactly one style and color needed.  Everything is so picked over.

So, have you thought about what you should do in the situation?  Ideally, I would have noticed that I needed buttons before cutting out the shirt.  At the pattern stage, it should be is easy to fix.  So I poked around until I found this article on Button Placket Adjustment for Larger Buttons by Itch to Stitch.  Larger buttons require larger buttonholes.  Here is how to calculate button hole size - Beautifully Buttoned an article at Bluprint.  Here is a little more information about button placement by Itch to Stitch.

What do you do if you have added length to the shirt which in turn requires additional buttons?  When I was stitching my husband's shirts last month, I found a youtube video that explains how to find center front along with button and buttonhole place.  I can not find the video that I watched but there are a ton of them on youtube. 

Hopefully, you have found some interesting information.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Round Neck Top

The hot days of summer are coming and I think this is a perfect top for that.

This is the Eileen Fisher Organic Cotton Stretch Lawn Round-Neck Top.  Price tag: $148.00. Details:  relaxed silhouette, short sleeves, crew neck, about 25" from shoulder to hem.

An almost identical pattern is:

This is Indygo Essentials Easy Top & Tunic pattern.  It is very close to the inspiration picture - change the facing to bias tape, re-shape the hem, change front/back pieces from the fold to a seam.

Go find your favorite color fabric and make a quick top.

Happy Stitching!

Weekly Timeless Wardrobe - Week 46

Week 46 of the Weekly Timeless Wardrobe have arrived.  You can find Week 46 here.  The introduction chart is always a good place to start if you are just now bumping into this series.  Note: as the series progresses, the chart changes a wee bit.  It should be shown on the weekly posting at the bottom.

Week 46 is a neutral light-weight second layer.  This could be a button-down shirt, a cardigan, a wrap, a cape, etc.  I think you get the idea.  It is something to wear when you go into a restaurant that is really cool or for a cool evening.  Here's some ideas:

This is the Grainline Studio Archer button up shirt pattern.  It is a classic pattern.  Once it is fitted, you can easily make it may times. View A would work well as a light weight 2nd layer.  However, it might be fun to use View B.

This is the Loes Hinse Zipper Jacket pattern.  It is a little harder to locate but can be found here.  You get two views with this jacket.

This is the Indygo Junction 5-Way Wrap pattern.  This could be a fun, versatile piece to add to the wardrobe.

Hope your inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Seamwork Special...

For those who have an interest in Seamwork, the annual subscription is 50% off right now.  Use this link and get an additional $3.00 off (I also get a small benefit.).

I have been a member at Seamwork for a year now.  I have made a few of the patterns and have been surprised at how well they have been drafted.  You will be seeing more posts of me-made items from Seamwork in the future.  As of right now, I am still making muslins of each pattern and draping them to fit.  As you know, this takes time.

Happy Stitching!

Weekly Timeless Wardrobe - Week 45

Weeks 45 of the Weekly Timeless Wardrobe have arrived.  You can find Week 45 here.  The introduction chart is always a good place to start if you are just now bumping into this series.  Note: as the series progresses, the chart changes a wee bit.  It should be shown on the weekly posting at the bottom. 

Week 45 is dark, neutral, lightweight pants.  This is probably more my style than last week's shorts.  As stated last week, it doesn't have to be pants.  This could just as easy be a dress.  Here's a couple of options that would work well:

This is Jag's Woven Yoga Pants pattern by Silhouette Patterns.  This is a nice elastic waist pant with an ankle length.

This is McCall's 7942.  It's an elastic waist pant with side pockets.  This pattern also includes shorts and a skirt. Making it a good option for those items also.  I guess this is a good bang for your buck.  I'll be surprised if we see cheap patterns any more.

Hope you are inspired to create some light-weight pants.  

Happy Sewing!

Shirt Bundle...

At the end of May, I bumped into a Shirt Bundle from The School of Making at Alabama Chanin. I decided to take the risk that I would actually make the shirt. Here's a picture of the bundle:

The bundle included the following items:

 • The Jumpsuit Pattern (includes variations for The Shirt, Shirt Dress, and Jumpsuit) with instructions
• 2 yards of 100% organic medium-weight cotton jersey in the color of your choice
• 3 spools of matching Button Craft thread
• 1 spool of matching Embroidery Floss
• 7 #7 Snaps
• The School of Making label

 I chose navy jersey. It seems like a very good value. Of course, that is only if I actually get it accomplished. I will need to muslin the pattern for fit before attempting in the cotton jersey.

 Wish me luck.

 Happy Stitching!

Inspirtion...Stripe Shirt

Stripes continue to be in focus. Here is an interesting stripe shirt:

Although it feels a little early to be thinking about fall/winter clothes, they are on pre-order now.  If we put thought into it now, maybe we will have clothes ready for that time of the year.

This is the Lafayette 148 New York Ruxton Striped Button-Down Shirt.  Price tag: $448.00. The one side panel with the stripes turned is thing that is different about this shirt.  It will most likely take more fabric to create this version of the shirt.  Super easy, if you already have a fitted shirt pattern.  Here are some options:

This is the Grainline Studio Archer Button Up pattern.  View A is a classic shirt pattern. 

This is the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  As the name implies, this is a classic button-up shirt pattern but with a little twist.  It has cup sizing which for some can be a wonderful addition to a pattern. 

I am an affliliate for the company that has been linked for both of the patterns above.  For the month of June 2020, they will be donating 10% of their revenue to NAACP legal defense team.  Please consider making a purchase to help this worthy cause.

Happy Stitching!

Seamwork Natalie Muslin...

I am finally getting around to the fabric from this post on Sewing Mojo.  I am starting with the Seamwork Natalie shirt.  Seamwork patterns can be purchased individually or through a monthly/yearly subscription.  Using the Seamwork link will give you a $3.00 discount on the purchase of a monthly or yearly subscription.  Here is the line drawing for Natalie:

Natalie is a basic camp shirt style top which is more or less perfect for spring/summer/fall in the area that I live.  Here is my muslin:

Here is the first round.  It is just the pattern as it.  It is not bad. I chose the size by the bust (circumference). You can see that there is a bit of gapping at the armscye and a little wrinkling around the bust dart.  Both are pointing to needing a larger dart.   That is the only change I am making on this round.  I do not see any reason to make any changes to the back at this time.

I have changed the dart on the right side of the picture.  The dart increase is 3/4" which means I need to add 1 1/2 " to the length of the front.

See how nice the armscye is fitting about the bust.  My hair just keeps getting crazier.  It has gotten so long that I have been using combs to control it a little bit and to allow me to see what the collar is doing.  It looks to me like it is standing away from my neck.    I will add a 1/2" high round back adjustment.

Here's the back with the sleeves sewn in.  The sleeve is comfortable without making any changes to it.  The lengths and widths still look good here.  I do not think I need any additional changes other than what have been mentioned.  I do see the funkiness around the bottom of the armscye.  I do not know what the correction is for that.  Feel free to give me ideas for corrections.

Now I just need to move the changes to the pattern and add the extra pattern paper to make the dart changes and front length change.  I think this is going to be a very versatile top. 

Oh, there is one thing.  The sleeve actually has a lot of ease built in.  I had a lot of trouble getting sleeve eased into the armscye.  I did find one pleat.  Usually when you use the feed dogs to bring in the ease on the sleeve, the seamlines meet perfectly.  I will need to figure it out before I cut the crepe.

Hope you are inspired.

Happy Stithing!

Indygo Essentials Easy Top & Tunic...

Back in February, I decided that I was going to make the Indygo Essentials Easy Top & Tunic pattern.  You can read about it here.  Well, life got turned upside down and I have spent the last few months with my parents but I brought my sewing stuff with me.  Last week, I got around to making the muslin of the pattern.  The fabric I chose to use as the muslin was a poor choice.  You can read about it here.  It left me undecided about the size that I had chosen.  After going back and forth, I decided to stick with the size that I had originally picked.  Here's the result:

I think I did okay with the size.  Although the picture looks like I didn't press it, I did.  When it isn't on the body there are no wrinkles.  What does that mean?  I'm really happy with this top.  It will be cool to wear in the hot summer heat.

Details:

Indygo Essentials Easy Top & Tunic pattern IJ1154E View B
size - XL
yardage used - 1
fabric - 100% cotton

Conclusion:

This is a great pattern.  Goes together well and is fairly quick to make.  I am very slow at sewing and get a lot of interuptions helping my parents.  I think it took about 3 hours.  I will make this pattern again.  You could change the look at bit by bringing the facings to the outside.

What do you think of the new hair style?  I am so ready to for a haircut.  I am about 3 months past due.  I need to wait just a little bit longer.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful for yourself.

Happy Stitching!

Weekly Timeless Wardrobe - Week 44

Weeks 44 of the Weekly Timeless Wardrobe have arrived.  You can find Week 44 here.  The introduction chart is always a good place to start if you are just now bumping into this series.  Note: as the series progresses, the chart changes a wee bit.  It should be shown on the weekly posting at the bottom. 

Week 44 is dark, neutral shorts.  Perfect summer attire.  That doesn't mean that this has to be shorts.  What it does mean is a dark neutral bottom.  This can be shorts are all lengths, pants, or a skirt.  I would lean toward a skirt or capris.  I am no longer comforter in shorts that show my knees.  Here's my take on the patterns for this.  This month's seamwork patterns are perfect for this.

This is the line drawings for the Seamwork Dorian Shorts pattern.  They are high waisted with a partial elastic band and they have pockets.  For the month of June, these are member only patterns. It will be available for separate purchase in July. Membership information can be found here.  Using this link for membership will give you a $3 discount.  Memberships can be purchased monthly or yearly.  I would use the member bonus to extend the legs to the length I would be interested.  

This is the line drawing for Seamwork Leonora skirt pattern.  If you're a member there is a bonus that provides a slant pocket variation.  Membership information is above.

Here's a top pattern that I had been looking for and really applies to the wardrobe building from the last 2 or 3 weeks:

This is the line drawings for the Seamwork Willis top pattern.  It is a sleeveless button down top and the exact pattern that I have been looking for.  This is a members only pattern for the month of June.  It will be available in July.  Membership information is listed above.  By following the link for membership, there is a $3.00 discount.  

Hope you're inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Men's Shirt - Simplicity 5581

My husband picked a 2 or 3 fabrics and I have been working on Simplicity 5581.  You can see the muslin information here.  Here are the shirts:

This is a stash find.  It is a red/white seersucker.  I sent my husband to JoAnns to get the buttons.  I gave him the required size, fabric with a buttonhole in it, and told him he pick whatever he wanted but he would have to live with it.  I think he did well.  Poor guy, he had to stand in line for about an hour to get into the store.  He was not happy.

This is another stash find.  It is birds, birds, birds.  The fabric was purchased many years ago for this purpose.  I am glad that it finally became a shirt.  It is a much stiffer fabric than the red/white striped fabric. 

This is another stash find.  It is all kinds of hot peppers.  I think this fabric was something I kept from closing my store.   It is a quilting cotton.  I added an inch to the length of this one.

Conclusion:

This is a great pattern. The drafting seems very good.  The instructions were good.   If you can locate a copy of it at a reason price and you have guys in your life to sew for, you should get it.

Happy Stitching!