Itch to Stitch Brisas Pullover....

 My first fall/winter item is completed.  This maybe a first for me.  I am usually sewing items throughout the season instead of before hand.  Here is the line drawings fot the Itch to Stitch Brisas Pullover:

Here is the link to the "wearable" muslin that I made.  It may just be a lounging top.  The stripes do not match around the bust and that bothers me but I think it will be snuggly warm. Here is my final top:

I think it turned out well and I am very pleased with the fit.  It has a few issues but I doubt that anything is perfect.  As with the muslin version, the zip was a pain.  I did put off as much as I could but I wanted it finished.  The zipper probably took two days to finish.  Mostly because I was working in the evenings and it is a bit harder to see in the evenings. 

It is hard taking a picture of yourself.  The photographer is away right now.  Here is a hanger picture:

You really should consider this pdf pattern.  The results are very good.

Happy Stitching!

Sinclair Pattern Whisper Shorts...

 I purchased the Sinclair Patterns Whisper Shorts pattern a couple of years ago as this is my favorite style of undies.  As you can tell, I was not in a big hurry to accomplish it.  It felt like another collected pattern.  Then, on one of my sewing lists someone mentioned making tank tops from leftover knit pieces that were too small for tops and I thought I will see if I can do that with the Whisper pattern.  Your machines are already threaded with the right color of thread, right?  Here is the result of me using small pieces of leftover knit:

I used a size 16 with a 3-inch inseam and cut the rise at the highest.  I really did not intend to have the highest rise.  So rather than cut off the 1 1/2-inches, I used a 1-inch elastic for the waistband that had it hitting in approximately the same area.  I used three of my machines - serger for seams, sewing machine to apply the elastic, and coverstitch machine for hems and waistband.  Except for all my futzing, it was fairly quick.  I will say that I have a much higher appreciation for the price of undies.

The instructions:

I do not usually have an issue with pattern instructions.  The instructions for the gusset on the shorts had me scratching my head.  I finally gave up and did my own thing.  Appears to have turned out okay. It made me realize that I probably do a glance at illustrations instead of directly reading instructions.  The photos did not really help me.

Overall impression, is using those scraps for under garments can be a money saver.  I would love to hear how you use up those left over knits.  I know I am not the only person who only wants 1 1/4 yards but has to buy 2 yards.  I do not have little people to sew for anymore.  I would recommend the pattern.

Happy Stitching!

Itch to Stitch Kashi Tee Round 3...

 With this round of the Itch to Stitch Kashi Tee, I chose the scoop neck option and made a small change to the shoulder slope:

With this version, I made 1/4-inch change to the shoulder slope.  This fabric is the nicest of the three cotton jerseys that I have used recently.  It is buttery soft.

As far as any additional changes, I do need to make a minor change to the armscye and I think that I have worked out the corresponding change to the sleeve.  I have made three of these in a row and it is time to challenge myself with something different.

I do believe that this pattern is going to be my TNT for T-shirts.  I have not made the crew neck version yet.

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Happy Stitching!

Itch To Stitch Kashi Tee Round 2...

 With this round of the Itch to Stitch Kashi Tee, I chose the v-neck option and made a small FBA.  Here is the result:

I really like the v-neck of this view of the Kashi Tee.  It is a really good height.  The minor FBA that I did seems to be good although there is still a bit of wrinkling above the bust.  I will make another small tweak to the shoulder slope next. I might even add a little bit of additional length to front maybe not a traditional FBA.

This version is very wearable and will be worn.  The next version will be another scoop neck version.

I feel like the needs to be some changes made to the armscye but I do not know how to make the corresponding changes to the sleeve.  If you are aware of a tutorial or explanation of what needs to be, I would welcome the information

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Happy Stitching!

Itch to Stitch Kashi Tee...

 I purchase many patterns and admire them but I am trying harder to use them.  Looking for a well fitting t-shirt has been interesting.  I do not necessary want to make t-shirt after t-shirt from different patterns but I have tried many.  The Itch to Stitch Kashi T-shirt pattern has a fair number of options with it - three necklines, three sleeve lengths, three body lengths, and regular bust/full bust.  Here is the line drawings:  

The pattern gives you information on size selection.  I am always skeptical of the sizes that are suggested but I went with it because it is just fabric.  The size suggest was a c-cup, a size 12 in the bust and shoulders and an 18 from the bust down.  Style was short sleeves, scoop neck, and hip length.

For fabric, I found a cute little knit that I had tried multiple times to use but it seemed to twist.  Somehow this time, I was able to get it flat to cut out the pattern.  Here are the results of my efforts:

Overall, this does not look bad.  Other than the transition of the sizes, I did not attempt any other pattern fitting before cutting out.  That is a win-win.  It probably took me and 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours to complete.  I used all three of my machines - stitched darts with the sewing machine, did all the seaming with the serger, and finished the hems with the coverstitch machine.  The coverstitch machine was probably the hardest but it did pretty good with the stitching tonight.  

I fully realize that this is not perfect.  I can see the wrinkles.  This was my muslin which will probably get worn.  In looking at the pictures, I think I need additional length/width for the bust.  Just a little.  I can see the wrinkles on the sleeve in the back but those I am unsure how to fix.  

Next one will get a little bit of a full bust adjustment.  It should help with the little bit of wrinkling at the bust and level out the side view of the front.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.  Any purchases made through the links on this page will result in a small commission at no cost to you.  Thank you!

Happy Stitching!

Itch to Stitch Quebec Skirt....

 Last fall, I purchased stretch twill to make a Itch to Stitch Quebec Skirt.  Here is the fabric:

 

It is a 4-way stretch twill in cotton.  It is nice an stretchy.  Here is the Quebec Skirt line drawing:

After reading the directions, I choose a size 16.  I also decided to shorten the skirt by 1-inch.  I did this at the shorten/lengthen lines on the pattern.  I am feeling a little doubtful about the choosen size but it is what it is.  Next, I decided to make the back pockets a little fancier by using decorative stitching.  Here is the design that I chose:

I will modify it a little bit to fit my pocket but this will start the process.  I think I will do a three-step straight stitch in a matching thread.  This was from a pdf that Closet Core had done on jean pockets.

Now, I need to decide about stay tape.  I do not really own this and usually use knit interfacing.  Generally, I would cut for this purpose with the grain so there would not be any stretch but there is a deep curve in the front pockets and I am not sure it will work. I will play a bit and see what happens.  I do not really have much extra fabric to play with.  I do not have any sewing stores nearby.  Yes, a sewing desert.  Just about everything needs to be purchased online.  Okay, here is what I ended up with:

I think it is workable.  I drew the seamline on so I could see where to place the tape.  On to drawing the pocket design.  Here are the results:

Sorry, the picture is not so good but maybe you can tell what it looks like.  Here is a practice topstitching.  I tried both a regular straight stitch and a 3-step stretch stitch with sew-in stablizer and wash-away stabilizer.  Here are the results:

Honestly, I can not tell much difference between the stabilizers.  When test-stitching, I tend to use up bobbins from other projects.  You can see it in the picture above. The second row of stitching has a black bobbin.  I kinda like the way that looks.  It is not what I want for this project but it could be usefully in another project for decorative stitching.  

Now, I need to figure out the thread thing.  I only order one spool of thread and this project has a ton of topstitching.  What was I thinking?  I have a fear that even if I use the thread for top thread, that I will run out of thread.  I do have a large stash of thread so hopefully there is something in there that is very close if not the same color.  So, I did end up ordering additional thread.  The shipping was as much as the cost of the thread.   Here is some additional pictures:

Here I have the pockets basted on.  I used two lines of basting one in a dark color to hold everthing in place and a second line in water solution thread to hold the very edge level.

Topstitching on the skirt front.  I am very happy with the way it has turned out.  Not perfect but good.

At this point the skirt, look skirty enough to try on.  I was disappointed.  Yes, I can get into the skirt but I do not want anyone to see me in the skirt.  I finished the skirt up to the elastic and that is where it will stay until  I have slimmed on a bit.  Here is the finished skirt:

Conclusion:  I love this pattern.  It is the perfect straight skirt pattern.  I am currently looking for fabric with 30% stretch.  You know all the factors - right straight, right color, ect.  I found a stretch corduroy that might work for a winter skirt.

The Quebec Skirt instructions are wonderfully written.  If you follow them, you will end up with a beautiful skirt.  Just make sure you pick the correct size.

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Happy Stitching!

Itch to Stitch Vikos Dress...

 It time to get the Itch to Stitch Vikos Dress going for summer.  I purchased the denim fabric last fall.  I finished a muslin toward then end of March.  I suppose technically this version will be a muslin too but I plan on wearing it unless it turns out terrible.  According to my notes, the sizing will be from a 12 to 16 to 18 with a slight shoulder angle change.

The photographer is away.  So, for now, there will just be a hanger picture.  I am pleased with the fit.  Changing the shoulder angle did fit some of the back wrinkles.  Hopefully, this dress will be in regular rotation this summer.

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Happy Stitching!

Stretch & Sew T-Shirt...

I am always trying to find the perfect t-shirt pattern.   You know not too tight.  I guess this is my age showing on me.  I chose to look deep into my pattern stash and pulled out a Stretch & Sew t-shirt pattern from 1990. Here is the  pattern view:

I am going to make View A with long tapered sleeves and regular hems.  Now, I need to figure out the needed size.  I can still wear the t-shirt that I made years ago.  It is a little tight in the belly area.  After a lot of measuring, I decided on a 36 for the shoulder area and a 44 for the remaining body of the t-shirt.  

The pattern requires a 25% stretch.  I found a Walmart cut that I think will work for a test or maybe a wearable muslin.  I am hoping the only thing that will be difficult will be getting the double needle or coverstitch.  This should be a fairly quick project.  Here is the result:

The t-shirt/top is not perfect but it is certainly wearable for an item that I just traced out and stitched.  I had wanted a mock turtleneck but I kept playing with the length and width until it felt right.  So, the neckband is not a mock turtleneck nor it is a typical crewneck.  It is somewhere in between.  

The next time I make this I will need to address the problems - the neckline is a little too high, a full bust adjustment is very much needed, and that back wrinkle.  I am not sure about it.  It seems to be something new but it has shown up on the last two t-shirts that I have made.  It could be a round back alteration needed.  On many patterns, I make a high round back alteration.  I did not on this one.  Maybe the tape measure will provide the answer.

Happy Stitching!

Love Notions Encore Skirt...

 After finishing my first stash project of the year, I decided to make an "outfit".  I still had plenty of fabric left so I decided to make a skirt.  Here is the line drawing of the skirt that I chose:

The Encore Skirt has lots of options.  I could not decide between the pencil skirt and the a-line skirt so I printed both patterns so I could measure.  I watched the Lifting Pins and Needles video on making this skirt in a knit and I may very well copy her yoga waistband because I can.  

After much debating, I decided to go with the a-line skirt.  I am hoping that it will be a bit more flattering at this point in my life.  I also decided to go ahead with the yoga waistband.  Here is a picture of the finished skirt:

Here is the yoga style waistband:

I really like this skirt.  This version was super easy to make with the yoga waistband.  I will definitely make a woven project as I am positive that there is fabric in the stash that would work.

This project and the sweater project are showing me the limations of my sewing machine.  My sewing machine barely had enough strength to go through the layers of this fabric.  I will say that I broke at least one needle and yes, I was using the correct size needle.  I suppose it possible that the machine needs a visit to the technician.

Happy Stitching!

Seamwork Milo...

 When I moved part of my stash in the fall, I found some wonderful long forgotten fabrics.  This is part of the issue with a large stash.  You just remember can not what is in there or how much is there.  I found a lovely black ponte (I think).  If is definitely a polyester or a polyester mix.  I am not really good with determining blends.

Then, I decided to join the two month long stash contest at Pattern Review.  Honestly I do not sew very fast anymore, so I do not plan on being the big winner using up the stash.  Any stash that I use verses purchasing more stash is win.

After finishing the final project (1st sewn item for 2026) of 2025, I decided to make a cardigan figuring it would be a great addition to my next travel wardrobe.  If I had started that project on/after January 1, it would have qualified but alas I did not.  Here is my first official stash project:

I am making Version 2 in a size 16.  I did change the sleeve a little bit to make sure there is enough space for my bicep.  Here you can see the change made to the pattern piece:

Even though it looks a bit funny, the change to the bicep has been working well.

 Construction:

1.  Pay close attention to the front bands.  It is very easy to get them mixed up.  

2.  For the size 16, the sleeve notches did not match.  I was able to get the sleeve to work.

Otherwise, this is a fast and easy project.  Even though it took me many days to complete.  I found some horn buttons on Amazon that were perfect:

Here is the finished garment:

Overall this is nice pattern and I would recommend it.  I will happily wear it.

Happy Stitching!

Love Notions Barrington Boxy Tee...

 I am still experimenting with pattern fitting via the Pin & Needles fitting videos.  I chose the Love Notions Barrington Boxy Tee.  Here is the line drawing:

This tee is a boxy tee that hits at the high hip.  I choose to do the long sleeve, crew neck, and the split sides.  I chose a large in the shoulder/armscye area and an x-large from the armscye to the hip.

Here is the the pattern changes:

The only change that I made on the sleeve was to make the sleeves a little wider through the bicep area.  I followed what I had seen a "cutter" do to a shirt and decided if they could do it so can I.

The bodice changes were minor.  My bust point is shorter than average so I move the bust point up 1 inch by taking a pleat in the pattern.  To get the waist in the correct spot, I added 3 inches just above the waist.  I made identical changes to the back bodice.

We have been having renovations down and I had to move all of my fabric from their hiding spot in my room.  It was like Christmas.  I found many fabrics that I had forgotten about.  I found this wonderful cotton knit in a royal blue.  

I have been having pretty good luck with making changes according to the Pins & Needles fitting method so I ditched the muslin and just made the top.  I did have challenges but it was 100% machine issues.  My coverstitch machine just did not want to function properly.  I ended up having to finish one side of the bottom hem in a different stitch because the lower looper on the coverstitch machine would not stay threaded.  It was very frustrating.  Here are the results of my efforts:

The fit is far from perfect but every bit as good as anything I can purchase.  In looking at the pictures, I am wondering if I need a round back adjustment.  Many tops need a high round back adjustment but I do not feel like that is the case here.  I will definitely make a couple more for spring/summer because that v-neck version really calls to me.  Maybe if I dig around a little more I will find more suitable knit fabrics for this pattern.

Happy Stitching!

Seamwork Bryn Dress...

 On a whim,  I decided that I needed another dress that was somewhat loose.  Just so I will have something to wear after my surgery.  So, I picked the Seamwork Bryn Dress.  Here is the line drawing:

I did pick it because of the loose silhouette.  I really wanted to use just stash items for this dress which was a challenge all by itself.  I finally found a remnant of royal blue fine wale corduroy which was pretty much perfect.  There was just enough for the outside of the dress.  I picked a plain black cotton for the facings, and a wild leopard print for the lining.  For the pattern, I cut it out and followed the advice of Katrina at Lifting Pins & Needles and checked all the lengths of the pattern.  Made all my crazy adjustments.  When I was finished with all the lengths adjustment through the body, I made sure that the actual length of the dress was going to be good.  I do not really need to be wearing dressing at mid-thigh.  Down to the knee is fine with me most of the time.  Then, I realized that the bust point on the pattern was no where near where my bust point was.  The level was correct but not location.  It was 3 inches off.  Folks, that is a lot.  The pattern apex to apex was 14 1/2 inches.  My apex to apex is 8 1/2".  Then, I had to figure out how to move a curved dart horizontally.  Not a fun experience but I think I did it.  Here is the resulting pattern:

You can see the dart movement along with where there was shortening and lengthening of the pattern.  I did not make a muslin of the changes.  I am cut out and see what I end up with.  If it does not work, it will be just a bit of wasted time and fabric.  Here is the finished dress:

The darts did turn out to be a challenge not just because they had to be moved at the pattern stage but when I made the dress the dart was just too long.  I had to alter the dart twice.  It is not perfect but wearable.

The changes that I made to the pattern are minor.  It was mostly length changes to match my measurements.  I did move the bust dart horizontally.  I also added a bit of length to the dress to make it long enough for me to be comfortable.

I think overall this is a fairly good dress. However, the balance seems off. I am wearing legging under neath which could be causing a little bit of issue but not sure.   If I had made a muslin, it probably could have been addressed but it is what it is.  Wearable.

Happy Stitching!

First Fall Winter Classic Shirt...

 I am starting the first of the sewing for the wardrobe post here.  I will be starting witht the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.  Here is the line drawings:

This is a pattern that I fitted over a couple of years and absolutely love it.  I have made two shirts this time.  The first shirt is made from the gray oxford shirting here. It is made using the View A of the pattern and this is the version I have made the most.  Here is the finished shirt:

Well, that is the second piece of the the ten I have planned.  The button holer on the machine gave me a hard time.  I have never had an issue with it before but it seemed that the same size buttonhole was not to be.  I had to redo at least three buttonholes not once but more than once.

I think I will need luck on finishing the remaining eight projects.

Happy Stitching!