Itch to Stitch Quebec Skirt....

 Last fall, I purchased stretch twill to make a Itch to Stitch Quebec Skirt.  Here is the fabric:

 

It is a 4-way stretch twill in cotton.  It is nice an stretchy.  Here is the Quebec Skirt line drawing:

After reading the directions, I choose a size 16.  I also decided to shorten the skirt by 1-inch.  I did this at the shorten/lengthen lines on the pattern.  I am feeling a little doubtful about the choosen size but it is what it is.  Next, I decided to make the back pockets a little fancier by using decorative stitching.  Here is the design that I chose:

I will modify it a little bit to fit my pocket but this will start the process.  I think I will do a three-step straight stitch in a matching thread.  This was from a pdf that Closet Core had done on jean pockets.

Now, I need to decide about stay tape.  I do not really own this and usually use knit interfacing.  Generally, I would cut for this purpose with the grain so there would not be any stretch but there is a deep curve in the front pockets and I am not sure it will work. I will play a bit and see what happens.  I do not really have much extra fabric to play with.  I do not have any sewing stores nearby.  Yes, a sewing desert.  Just about everything needs to be purchased online.  Okay, here is what I ended up with:

I think it is workable.  I drew the seamline on so I could see where to place the tape.  On to drawing the pocket design.  Here are the results:

Sorry, the picture is not so good but maybe you can tell what it looks like.  Here is a practice topstitching.  I tried both a regular straight stitch and a 3-step stretch stitch with sew-in stablizer and wash-away stabilizer.  Here are the results:

Honestly, I can not tell much difference between the stabilizers.  When test-stitching, I tend to use up bobbins from other projects.  You can see it in the picture above. The second row of stitching has a black bobbin.  I kinda like the way that looks.  It is not what I want for this project but it could be usefully in another project for decorative stitching.  

Now, I need to figure out the thread thing.  I only order one spool of thread and this project has a ton of topstitching.  What was I thinking?  I have a fear that even if I use the thread for top thread, that I will run out of thread.  I do have a large stash of thread so hopefully there is something in there that is very close if not the same color.  So, I did end up ordering additional thread.  The shipping was as much as the cost of the thread.   Here is some additional pictures:

Here I have the pockets basted on.  I used two lines of basting one in a dark color to hold everthing in place and a second line in water solution thread to hold the very edge level.

Topstitching on the skirt front.  I am very happy with the way it has turned out.  Not perfect but good.

At this point the skirt, look skirty enough to try on.  I was disappointed.  Yes, I can get into the skirt but I do not want anyone to see me in the skirt.  I finished the skirt up to the elastic and that is where it will stay until  I have slimmed on a bit.  Here is the finished skirt:

Conclusion:  I love this pattern.  It is the perfect straight skirt pattern.  I am currently looking for fabric with 30% stretch.  You know all the factors - right straight, right color, ect.  I found a stretch corduroy that might work for a winter skirt.

The Quebec Skirt instructions are wonderfully written.  If you follow them, you will end up with a beautiful skirt.  Just make sure you pick the correct size.

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Happy Stitching!

Itch to Stitch Vikos Dress...

 It time to get the Itch to Stitch Vikos Dress going for summer.  I purchased the denim fabric last fall.  I finished a muslin toward then end of March.  I suppose technically this version will be a muslin too but I plan on wearing it unless it turns out terrible.  According to my notes, the sizing will be from a 12 to 16 to 18 with a slight shoulder angle change.

The photographer is away.  So, for now, there will just be a hanger picture.  I am pleased with the fit.  Changing the shoulder angle did fit some of the back wrinkles.  Hopefully, this dress will be in regular rotation this summer.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.  Some links in the post are affiliate links.  Should you click the link and make a purchase I will receive a small commission.  Thank you!  Remember with Itch to Stitch, there is a volume discount.

Happy Stitching!

Stretch & Sew T-Shirt...

I am always trying to find the perfect t-shirt pattern.   You know not too tight.  I guess this is my age showing on me.  I chose to look deep into my pattern stash and pulled out a Stretch & Sew t-shirt pattern from 1990. Here is the  pattern view:

I am going to make View A with long tapered sleeves and regular hems.  Now, I need to figure out the needed size.  I can still wear the t-shirt that I made years ago.  It is a little tight in the belly area.  After a lot of measuring, I decided on a 36 for the shoulder area and a 44 for the remaining body of the t-shirt.  

The pattern requires a 25% stretch.  I found a Walmart cut that I think will work for a test or maybe a wearable muslin.  I am hoping the only thing that will be difficult will be getting the double needle or coverstitch.  This should be a fairly quick project.  Here is the result:

The t-shirt/top is not perfect but it is certainly wearable for an item that I just traced out and stitched.  I had wanted a mock turtleneck but I kept playing with the length and width until it felt right.  So, the neckband is not a mock turtleneck nor it is a typical crewneck.  It is somewhere in between.  

The next time I make this I will need to address the problems - the neckline is a little too high, a full bust adjustment is very much needed, and that back wrinkle.  I am not sure about it.  It seems to be something new but it has shown up on the last two t-shirts that I have made.  It could be a round back alteration needed.  On many patterns, I make a high round back alteration.  I did not on this one.  Maybe the tape measure will provide the answer.

Happy Stitching!

Love Notions Encore Skirt...

 After finishing my first stash project of the year, I decided to make an "outfit".  I still had plenty of fabric left so I decided to make a skirt.  Here is the line drawing of the skirt that I chose:

The Encore Skirt has lots of options.  I could not decide between the pencil skirt and the a-line skirt so I printed both patterns so I could measure.  I watched the Lifting Pins and Needles video on making this skirt in a knit and I may very well copy her yoga waistband because I can.  

After much debating, I decided to go with the a-line skirt.  I am hoping that it will be a bit more flattering at this point in my life.  I also decided to go ahead with the yoga waistband.  Here is a picture of the finished skirt:

Here is the yoga style waistband:

I really like this skirt.  This version was super easy to make with the yoga waistband.  I will definitely make a woven project as I am positive that there is fabric in the stash that would work.

This project and the sweater project are showing me the limations of my sewing machine.  My sewing machine barely had enough strength to go through the layers of this fabric.  I will say that I broke at least one needle and yes, I was using the correct size needle.  I suppose it possible that the machine needs a visit to the technician.

Happy Stitching!

Seamwork Milo...

 When I moved part of my stash in the fall, I found some wonderful long forgotten fabrics.  This is part of the issue with a large stash.  You just remember can not what is in there or how much is there.  I found a lovely black ponte (I think).  If is definitely a polyester or a polyester mix.  I am not really good with determining blends.

Then, I decided to join the two month long stash contest at Pattern Review.  Honestly I do not sew very fast anymore, so I do not plan on being the big winner using up the stash.  Any stash that I use verses purchasing more stash is win.

After finishing the final project (1st sewn item for 2026) of 2025, I decided to make a cardigan figuring it would be a great addition to my next travel wardrobe.  If I had started that project on/after January 1, it would have qualified but alas I did not.  Here is my first official stash project:

I am making Version 2 in a size 16.  I did change the sleeve a little bit to make sure there is enough space for my bicep.  Here you can see the change made to the pattern piece:

Even though it looks a bit funny, the change to the bicep has been working well.

 Construction:

1.  Pay close attention to the front bands.  It is very easy to get them mixed up.  

2.  For the size 16, the sleeve notches did not match.  I was able to get the sleeve to work.

Otherwise, this is a fast and easy project.  Even though it took me many days to complete.  I found some horn buttons on Amazon that were perfect:

Here is the finished garment:

Overall this is nice pattern and I would recommend it.  I will happily wear it.

Happy Stitching!

Love Notions Barrington Boxy Tee...

 I am still experimenting with pattern fitting via the Pin & Needles fitting videos.  I chose the Love Notions Barrington Boxy Tee.  Here is the line drawing:

This tee is a boxy tee that hits at the high hip.  I choose to do the long sleeve, crew neck, and the split sides.  I chose a large in the shoulder/armscye area and an x-large from the armscye to the hip.

Here is the the pattern changes:

The only change that I made on the sleeve was to make the sleeves a little wider through the bicep area.  I followed what I had seen a "cutter" do to a shirt and decided if they could do it so can I.

The bodice changes were minor.  My bust point is shorter than average so I move the bust point up 1 inch by taking a pleat in the pattern.  To get the waist in the correct spot, I added 3 inches just above the waist.  I made identical changes to the back bodice.

We have been having renovations down and I had to move all of my fabric from their hiding spot in my room.  It was like Christmas.  I found many fabrics that I had forgotten about.  I found this wonderful cotton knit in a royal blue.  

I have been having pretty good luck with making changes according to the Pins & Needles fitting method so I ditched the muslin and just made the top.  I did have challenges but it was 100% machine issues.  My coverstitch machine just did not want to function properly.  I ended up having to finish one side of the bottom hem in a different stitch because the lower looper on the coverstitch machine would not stay threaded.  It was very frustrating.  Here are the results of my efforts:

The fit is far from perfect but every bit as good as anything I can purchase.  In looking at the pictures, I am wondering if I need a round back adjustment.  Many tops need a high round back adjustment but I do not feel like that is the case here.  I will definitely make a couple more for spring/summer because that v-neck version really calls to me.  Maybe if I dig around a little more I will find more suitable knit fabrics for this pattern.

Happy Stitching!

Seamwork Bryn Dress...

 On a whim,  I decided that I needed another dress that was somewhat loose.  Just so I will have something to wear after my surgery.  So, I picked the Seamwork Bryn Dress.  Here is the line drawing:

I did pick it because of the loose silhouette.  I really wanted to use just stash items for this dress which was a challenge all by itself.  I finally found a remnant of royal blue fine wale corduroy which was pretty much perfect.  There was just enough for the outside of the dress.  I picked a plain black cotton for the facings, and a wild leopard print for the lining.  For the pattern, I cut it out and followed the advice of Katrina at Lifting Pins & Needles and checked all the lengths of the pattern.  Made all my crazy adjustments.  When I was finished with all the lengths adjustment through the body, I made sure that the actual length of the dress was going to be good.  I do not really need to be wearing dressing at mid-thigh.  Down to the knee is fine with me most of the time.  Then, I realized that the bust point on the pattern was no where near where my bust point was.  The level was correct but not location.  It was 3 inches off.  Folks, that is a lot.  The pattern apex to apex was 14 1/2 inches.  My apex to apex is 8 1/2".  Then, I had to figure out how to move a curved dart horizontally.  Not a fun experience but I think I did it.  Here is the resulting pattern:

You can see the dart movement along with where there was shortening and lengthening of the pattern.  I did not make a muslin of the changes.  I am cut out and see what I end up with.  If it does not work, it will be just a bit of wasted time and fabric.  Here is the finished dress:

The darts did turn out to be a challenge not just because they had to be moved at the pattern stage but when I made the dress the dart was just too long.  I had to alter the dart twice.  It is not perfect but wearable.

The changes that I made to the pattern are minor.  It was mostly length changes to match my measurements.  I did move the bust dart horizontally.  I also added a bit of length to the dress to make it long enough for me to be comfortable.

I think overall this is a fairly good dress. However, the balance seems off. I am wearing legging under neath which could be causing a little bit of issue but not sure.   If I had made a muslin, it probably could have been addressed but it is what it is.  Wearable.

Happy Stitching!

First Fall Winter Classic Shirt...

 I am starting the first of the sewing for the wardrobe post here.  I will be starting witht the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.  Here is the line drawings:

This is a pattern that I fitted over a couple of years and absolutely love it.  I have made two shirts this time.  The first shirt is made from the gray oxford shirting here. It is made using the View A of the pattern and this is the version I have made the most.  Here is the finished shirt:

Well, that is the second piece of the the ten I have planned.  The button holer on the machine gave me a hard time.  I have never had an issue with it before but it seemed that the same size buttonhole was not to be.  I had to redo at least three buttonholes not once but more than once.

I think I will need luck on finishing the remaining eight projects.

Happy Stitching!

Rhapsody Round Two...

 I think this will definitely be the last spring/summer top for this season.  I purchased this fabric back in February specifically for the Rhapsody Blouse:

This is a rayon challis and was actually perfect for the Rhapsody blouse.  You can see my original muslin here, and the first wearable blouse here.

I can really see why people love this blouse.  With the exception of the binding, it is fast.  Here is the second wearable blouse:

Overall, I am pleased with this top.  I had added a little more space in the bodice while keeping the yoke the same.  I added 1/2-inch in the middle of the front bodice and just added more gathers.  The back bodice was placed 1/2-inch from the fold.  This gave me and added 2-inches all the way around.  Here is the sides and back:

  

The top may still be a bit long in the back.  I like the length in the front.  I still have a little bit of poofing at the back of the sleeve.  I thought I had taken care of the that but I do not know what is causing it.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I am planning on more Rhapsody but it will be a long sleeved version for fall/winter and I am planning to change the neckline just a little bit.

Happy Stitching!

First of Fall/Winter Sewing...Taroko Skirt

 I wanted to make one more Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt for fall and winter.  Here are the line drawings:

Here it the fabric that was purchased:

This was suppose to be teal but it is much closer to a navy.  Yes, it was one of the "I am disappointed fabrics" but it still works within my color pallet.  The only top that probably will not go with it is the teal challis that I purchased in June.

Here is the finished skirt:

The Taroko Skirt has turned into one of my favorite skirt patterns having made four in the past year.  That is two for cooler weather and two for warmer weather.    If you have not tried it, you should.  That is if you like a simple a-line skirt.

I have discovered the inconvenience of not having a local thread source with the projects but Amazon came to the rescue.  Thread matching is really tough when you do not have a good way to match the thread.  I do have a Gutterman thread chart but it has numbers and not names.  When looking on-line, the names are mentioned and they do not always list the color number.

I also tried a new interfacing.  It states that it is a medium weight fusible.  I purchased this fusible from Walmart from a company called H.B.I. Products.  I had a hard time getting this to fuse and stay fused.   Oh, well, you have to try it to know how it will work.  

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.

Happy Stitching!

New Summer Top...

 I was browsing through my stash of pdf patterns and found the Atelier Scammit Declic hiding.  This looked like a very simple pattern and I had the perfect fabric sitting in the remnants pile.  Here is the line drawing:

This is a simple blouse with shoulder pleats.  Here is the remnant:

I had previously made a bow tie blouse from this fabric and had about 1 1/4 yard leftover.  It felt good to be able to use a remnat of fabric.  The pattern is really long between the shoulder and the high bust so I removed 3 inches.  Yeah, I know that is a lot but it was at 15-inches before the change and 12-inches is still longer than I need.  

I did get stuck on cutting out the interfacing.  I suppose I should just order some stablizing tape so I do not get to take the time to it out.  The pattern required front/back neckline, shoulders, and armscyes to be stablized.  In the end, this was not needed.  I think I would rather just do a stay stitch.

I did not make an actual muslin of the this pattern.  I used the tape measure to determine any length changes and just went with it.  Here are the results:

I am hoping that this will become a new favorite top.  I am pleasantly surprised with how it turned out.  It will remain to be seen whether or not it will be too hot on hot summer days.

Happy Stitching!

First Summer Sewing...

 I am a little behind this year with the summer sewing and my wardrobe is feeling it.  I started with the Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt using a navy twill seen in this post.  Here are the line drawing:

This is the third time I have made this skirt.  I do not necessarily want all my skirts to look alike but I do really like being able to pull out a pattern and sew it up.  You can see the changes that I made to the pattern here.  Here is my latest version of this skirt:

I did think that the fabric might be a little to light weight but it turned out okay.  On this skirt, I did a little extra hand sewing around the hem, the pockets, the waistband and it made much of the topstitching easier.  Sometimes, we forget to slow down and enjoy the process.  On to the next project.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Sleeveless Shift Dress

 There is nothing like a shift dress for those hot summer days.  This dress is perfect:

This is the Sleeveless Cotton-Blend Shift Dress by Lafayette 148 New York. Price tag: $698.00.  Details:  bust darts, pick stitching, back gore darts, approximately 37-inches from the shoulder to the hem, round neckline, sleeveless, shift silhouette, knee length, back zip, machine wash.

Here is a great pattern -

This is the June Sheath Dress pattern by Style Arc.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!