First Fall Winter Classic Shirt...

 I am starting the first of the sewing for the wardrobe post here.  I will be starting witht the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.  Here is the line drawings:

This is a pattern that I fitted over a couple of years and absolutely love it.  I have made two shirts this time.  The first shirt is made from the gray oxford shirting here. It is made using the View A of the pattern and this is the version I have made the most.  Here is the finished shirt:

Well, that is the second piece of the the ten I have planned.  The button holer on the machine gave me a hard time.  I have never had an issue with it before but it seemed that the same size buttonhole was not to be.  I had to redo at least three buttonholes not once but more than once.

I think I will need luck on finishing the remaining eight projects.

Happy Stitching!

Rhapsody Round Two...

 I think this will definitely be the last spring/summer top for this season.  I purchased this fabric back in February specifically for the Rhapsody Blouse:

This is a rayon challis and was actually perfect for the Rhapsody blouse.  You can see my original muslin here, and the first wearable blouse here.

I can really see why people love this blouse.  With the exception of the binding, it is fast.  Here is the second wearable blouse:

Overall, I am pleased with this top.  I had added a little more space in the bodice while keeping the yoke the same.  I added 1/2-inch in the middle of the front bodice and just added more gathers.  The back bodice was placed 1/2-inch from the fold.  This gave me and added 2-inches all the way around.  Here is the sides and back:

  

The top may still be a bit long in the back.  I like the length in the front.  I still have a little bit of poofing at the back of the sleeve.  I thought I had taken care of the that but I do not know what is causing it.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I am planning on more Rhapsody but it will be a long sleeved version for fall/winter and I am planning to change the neckline just a little bit.

Happy Stitching!

First of Fall/Winter Sewing...Taroko Skirt

 I wanted to make one more Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt for fall and winter.  Here are the line drawings:

Here it the fabric that was purchased:

This was suppose to be teal but it is much closer to a navy.  Yes, it was one of the "I am disappointed fabrics" but it still works within my color pallet.  The only top that probably will not go with it is the teal challis that I purchased in June.

Here is the finished skirt:

The Taroko Skirt has turned into one of my favorite skirt patterns having made four in the past year.  That is two for cooler weather and two for warmer weather.    If you have not tried it, you should.  That is if you like a simple a-line skirt.

I have discovered the inconvenience of not having a local thread source with the projects but Amazon came to the rescue.  Thread matching is really tough when you do not have a good way to match the thread.  I do have a Gutterman thread chart but it has numbers and not names.  When looking on-line, the names are mentioned and they do not always list the color number.

I also tried a new interfacing.  It states that it is a medium weight fusible.  I purchased this fusible from Walmart from a company called H.B.I. Products.  I had a hard time getting this to fuse and stay fused.   Oh, well, you have to try it to know how it will work.  

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.

Happy Stitching!

New Summer Top...

 I was browsing through my stash of pdf patterns and found the Atelier Scammit Declic hiding.  This looked like a very simple pattern and I had the perfect fabric sitting in the remnants pile.  Here is the line drawing:

This is a simple blouse with shoulder pleats.  Here is the remnant:

I had previously made a bow tie blouse from this fabric and had about 1 1/4 yard leftover.  It felt good to be able to use a remnat of fabric.  The pattern is really long between the shoulder and the high bust so I removed 3 inches.  Yeah, I know that is a lot but it was at 15-inches before the change and 12-inches is still longer than I need.  

I did get stuck on cutting out the interfacing.  I suppose I should just order some stablizing tape so I do not get to take the time to it out.  The pattern required front/back neckline, shoulders, and armscyes to be stablized.  In the end, this was not needed.  I think I would rather just do a stay stitch.

I did not make an actual muslin of the this pattern.  I used the tape measure to determine any length changes and just went with it.  Here are the results:

I am hoping that this will become a new favorite top.  I am pleasantly surprised with how it turned out.  It will remain to be seen whether or not it will be too hot on hot summer days.

Happy Stitching!

First Summer Sewing...

 I am a little behind this year with the summer sewing and my wardrobe is feeling it.  I started with the Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt using a navy twill seen in this post.  Here are the line drawing:

This is the third time I have made this skirt.  I do not necessarily want all my skirts to look alike but I do really like being able to pull out a pattern and sew it up.  You can see the changes that I made to the pattern here.  Here is my latest version of this skirt:

I did think that the fabric might be a little to light weight but it turned out okay.  On this skirt, I did a little extra hand sewing around the hem, the pockets, the waistband and it made much of the topstitching easier.  Sometimes, we forget to slow down and enjoy the process.  On to the next project.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Sleeveless Shift Dress

 There is nothing like a shift dress for those hot summer days.  This dress is perfect:

This is the Sleeveless Cotton-Blend Shift Dress by Lafayette 148 New York. Price tag: $698.00.  Details:  bust darts, pick stitching, back gore darts, approximately 37-inches from the shoulder to the hem, round neckline, sleeveless, shift silhouette, knee length, back zip, machine wash.

Here is a great pattern -

This is the June Sheath Dress pattern by Style Arc.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Wardrobe Considerations...On Going

 Jumping right into the AI's suggestion of starting with bottoms, the AI and I picked the Liesl & Co Beckham Trousers in navy and gray along with the Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt in teal.  I have the Taroko Skirt already fitted which will make this easy. However, the Beckham Trouser has not been fitted.  So, that will be my challenge.

Here is a line drawing of the Peckham Trousers:

The only thing I am a little leary about is the pockets.  Slash pockets always seem to gape on me.  I will not know if I do not try, right?

Here is the Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt line drawing:

The skirt will be the easy bottom piece to make.  I am almost exactly a size 18.  I need to take in the waist a little bit.

Happy Stitching!

Wardrobe Considerations...

 A little over 10 years ago, I walked through the "Starting From Scratch" series at the Vivienne Files. I have always been happy with the colors that I chose in that time period - black, grey, pink, teal.   I tend to wear more black in cooler seasons and change that the navy in warmer seasons.  I do not feel like I have done well with keeping my wardrobe in good shape.  I do think 2020/2021 had something to do with it along with just being busy but most of my clothes are tired or maybe I am just tired of them.  Needless to say, it is time to walk through this process again.  This time however, I am going to use an ai to assist.  So far, it has been interesting.  Here is what has occurred so far:

1.  I asked for Suduko style wardrobe item in navy, grey, pink, and teal.  Here is the response I received:

• Row 1: Navy top, Pink bottom, Gray outerwear, Teal accessory
• Row 2: Pink dress, Teal top, Navy bottom, Gray accessory
• Row 3: Gray top, Navy accessory, Teal bottom, Pink outerwear
• Row 4: Teal dress, Gray top, Pink accessory, Navy outerwear

2.  Fabric recommendations:

• Navy: wool crepe or cotton twill for structure
• Pink: silk crepe or cotton poplin for softness
• Gray: ponte knit or wool gabardine for versatility
• Teal: linen blend or cotton sateen for freshness

I thought this was a good start.  I am not sure where this will go or how much I will complete.  I need to look to the stash for some of the fabric but I know I do not have much in teal colorway but I have a lot in the navy colorway.

Happy Stitching!

Classic Button-Down Shirt....

 Well, it is finally done.  The last shirt from my fall planning.  Yep, it took more than six months to accomplish.  Here is the fabric:

I admitted to purchasing this fabric in September.  I am very happy that it did not spend a great deal of time hanging out the fabric stash.  As stated in the fabric post, I used the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt:

This shirt pattern has been used many times.  Once it is fitted you can sew it over and over.  I need to figure out a short sleeved version.  Here is the finished shirt:

Happy Stitching!

Pussy Bow Blouses...

 Since the muslin of the Pussy Bow Blouse, I have made two versions of the blouse:

This is Version 1 with the keyhole opening with the higher neckline.  The changes that I did was to add 1/2" high round back alteration and backing off a little bit on the armscye depth alteration that I had done.  The blouse is not perfect but I will enjoy wearing it.

This is Version 2 with the v-neckline.  This version I narrowed the shoulders by 1/2-inch and moved the shoulder point forward.  Overall, I think that the fit is a little better.   It is still not perfect (does that exist?) but I will enjoy wearing it.

I think that I am done with the pattern for while.  Really how many bow blouses can you have?  I think two is plenty.  

Happy Stitching!

Corduroy Skirt...

 My last two projects have been shirts.  I am actually tired of making shirts so I decided to move on the Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt pattern.  Here is the line drawings of the skirt:

I made a muslin of the skirt last year and actually wore it a lot.  So, it is time to make another one.  I looked for an appropriate fabric hiding in the stash and found this great corduroy:

The corduroy is a navy blue.  It should fit well into the current wardrobe.  This is one of my little helpers.  The corduroy must feel nice to the kittens because I have found both of them either laying or rolling around on the fabric.  Here is the finished skirt:

I know solid, dark fabrics are hard to see and hard to photograph.  My impromptu skirt turned out nice and I am looking forward to wearing it.  

I decided to reduce the bulk in the zipper area by using a shirting fabric that somewhat matched:

I also pulled out the manual for my Bernette B77 and looked to see if there were any built in stitches that might be helpful.  Here are the stitches that I found:

This basting stitch is 5.0 mm long.  Nothing special to it.  Just pick it out.  This stitch will be used again.

This is the Bartack Stitch.  Yep, instead of you figuring out the stitch width and density, there is a dedicated stitch.  It works well.  However, it used the buttonhole function which means that the buttonhole foot is used.  Visibility is limited with the buttonhole foot.  Practice before using so you understand how it stitches.

I do not know if you can tell from the picture above but there is no button at the waistband.  I had to sew on a hook and eye as the B77 just would not stitch on the waistband.  It stitched every test buttonhole beautifully but on the actual waistband it stayed in one place.  I might sew a button on the outside of the waistband just so it looks like it is suppose to.

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Happy Stitching!

2nd Classic Shirt...

This is the third item from my September plan.  I decided to go for it even if I was not super happy about the fabric.  Here is the fabric:

If I decide that it is too light weight for cooler weather, I will make it short sleeved.  Of course, it could be a great layering garment.  Back to the fabric, I ironed the fabric to check for flaws or just weirdness.  I did find one spot that looked funny.  With luck, I will cut around it or maybe put it into a seam or hem.  I still have kittens to deal with as well.  For whatever reason, some of the pins are super interesting.  No and redirecting just is not helping the situation.  Any additional ideas would be great.  I really do not want them to get hurt.

Here is the final shirt:

I am fairly happy with the way the shirt turned out.  There are not too many mistakes.  I can say that I am very happy for having Fray Block and Collins Wash Away Wonder Tape.  

If you have not tried this pattern, you really should.  It is a great basic shirt.

Happy Stitching!

Go To Patterns...

 Do you have go to patterns that seem to always be in rotation?  I seem to have collected a few.  Here are my favorites:

1.  Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern. The hard part was fitting this pattern.  Once the fitting was accomplished, I have made a couple of long shirted shirts and a popover dress.  I need to make a couple of shirts for warm weather.  

2.  Fabrics-store.com Phoebe Tank.  This is a freebie for registered people.  Once the fitting is finished, you have a great warm weather top.  I have made at least seven of this tanks.  It really is time to mix up a little bit by making some minor changes.  Every time I make new tanks, I evaluate the fit and make tweaks.

3.  Pamela's Patterns The Magic Pencil Skirt.  Oh, this one is a quickie.  Need a skirt in a flash?  This one is it as long as it is a stretch fabric.  I have at least four versions of this and one is hand sewn in the Alabama Chanin style.

4.  Love Notions Allegro Bottoms.  This is another quickie once it is fitted. I've made at least four pairs of pants and one skirt.  No doubt, there will be more in the future.

5.  Merchant & Mills Camber Set.  I purchased this pattern to make the top but have yet to do it.  However, the dress is wonderful.  I have three versions and love them all but the linen one is my favorite.  Maybe next year the top will get made.

I am still looking for a good t-shirt pattern, a blazer jacket pattern, trousers, woven tops that are different from the classic shirt and the tank.  

What are your favorite patterns?  Are they quick items to make or are they a classic pattern for you?

Happy Stitching!

1st Classic Shirt....

 The fitted pattern for my Liesl & Co Classic Shirt had gone missing and it took a couple of weeks to locate it.  The first shirt for this season, I am using a stash fabric:

The original post where I discussed using this fabric is here.  While I was pressing it, I found this:

The dreaded flaw marker.  Thankfully, the flaw is fairly close to the edge.  Unfortunately, I was not informed that this was a fabric with a flaw.  I did carefully iron this to make sure that was the only one.  This is the only obvious flaw.  There is a second marker shown in the picture but I could not locate another flaw.  I will try to cut around this section of the fabric.

The actual cutting out of this shirt was a real adventure due to my kittens.  I chose to cut out in a single layer and the kittens seemed to find pins interesting.  They were taking them out almost as fast I was pinning.  It was only certain pins that they found interesting.  The first night was very frustrating but the second day I was able to finish the cutting out.

The adventures continued as the sewing.  Kittens stitching their head through the machine harp.  They continued pulling out every pin that looked interested.  Then, they sewing machine needle.  There was more than once that I thought one of them was going to get a paw under the needle but I was able to thwart every attempt.  

The very last thing that happened to this project is I ran out of thread.  I did start with a new spool of thread but obviously a small spool is not big enough for a button down shirt with lots of topstitching.  Thankful, the local JoAnn Fabrics had the matching thread.  Since I was at JoAnn's, I went ahead and looked at buttons.  It was truly a pitiful selection.  Obviously, the closest store to me is not looking for garment sewers.  There is another nearby store.  It is only a little further away.  Maybe it is time that I investigated it.

Running out of thread kinda put my sewjo off for a few days but I finally finished it.  Here is the result:

I am really happy with the shirt and hope that it will be worn a lot.  There are ton of mistakes but that happens with almost everything that I make anymore.  

On to the next project.

Happy Stitching!

First Item For Fall/Winter..

The first item for fall/winter is completed.  Here it is:

I do not have a photographer right now.  I will photgraph the skirt with the intended blouse, later.

As stated in an earlier post, I decided to go with Butterick 5668 View A.  My inspiration was in this post.  I thought the selected pattern was a very good copy of the inspiration witht the exception of the pockets.  My fabric is more of a check than a herringbone but it is good.  

The pattern is from the early-to-mid 2000s.  As skirts go, it was fairly straight forward to make with the following expections:

1. I had to enlarge the pattern.  I used the pivot/slide technique that Nancy Zieman was an advocate for.  This was not a difficult thing to do.

2.  I chose not to make a muslin.  To my surprise, the pockets did not match.  So, if you are making this pattern adjust the pockets before cutting out.

3.  The hip curve is very pronounced.  So much that I am going to need to figure out how to adjust it.  I have made many pencils skirt in the past but I do not remember any of them having a obvious curve in the hip area.  It could be that the skirt is hanging lower than intended when I tried it on.  

Hopefully, my skirt will get lots of wear.  Right now, I only have a black sweater to go with it.  I did order some fabric that I thought would go with it but I am not sure about the dark navy and black going together.  Thoughts?

Here are pictures of my other challenges:

My sweet little kittens just had to be involved.  Everything is so interesting - scissors, pins, needles, seam ripper, rulers, tape measure, sewing machine... I think you get the idea.  

Happy Stitching!

Starting Fall/Winter Wardrobe...

 I have started working on the fall/winter wardrobe by starting on the second skirt on my list.  I ended up picking this pattern for the skirt:

I am working on View A.  Unfortunately, my hip is a little bigger than the pattern so I used the pivot and slide method of pattern alteration to add enough width (I hope).  I might cut wider seams allowance as a just in case because there is not going to be a muslin.  I know I know I know but I generally do not have too many issues with skirts.  Here is the fabric again:

I had a helper every step of the way while I was working on the pattern so it was very slow going.  Here is a picture of my helper:

Now, you can see why my helper is slowing me down.  Yes, everything I was doing was interesting and everything had to checkout and tasted or slapped. This is Misty, one of my 5 month old kittens.  She is generally very sweet girl.  She is the mother of the pair of sisters that I got.

I know that I have thread for this project.  I just need to check out the zipper situation.  If I have a zipper, that is fabulous.  If not, I guess I will make a JoAnn run.  Hopefully, I will not be disappointed.  If I am, there is a nearby Wal-Mart that might have zippers.  Sadly, I do not have too many options for sewing notions locally.

Have you started your fall projects? 

Happy Stitching!

Plaid Classic Shirt...

 It feels good to have another item made for fall/winter.  I have gotten really slow with my sewing.  Here is my latest classic shirt:

The pattern used is the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.  Once you have it fitted, you can make many shirts.  The pattern is the same basic pattern that is used for a button down shirt.  It is very well drafted and has good instructions.  If you head over to the Olive & S website, you will also find a ton of information regarding this pattern.

I cut this version of the classic shirt in a single layer in an attempt to get the horizon stripes to match.  The body of the shirt is great.  I missed by a hair on the sleeves.  The yoke, button placket, cuff, and sleeve placket are all cut on the bias.  

Overall, I am very happy with this shirt and hope it gets a lot of wear.  The weather has been calling for a bit warmer clothing.

Happy Stitching!

Liesl & Co Classic Shirt Dress Part 3..

 The Classic Shirt Dress  has been finished.  Here is the final project:

I wish I had not procrastinated as long as I did but I am very happy with the results.  There was a comedy of errors made - stitched wrong depth of topstitching, sewing wrong side of front facing outward, and the list goes on.  

Happy Stitching!

Liesl & Co Classic Shirt Dress Part 2...

I have really been procrastinating on this dress.  I really have no idea why but I am sure it have something to do cutting the front of the dress to make the button tab.  Okay, I admit I can be chicken sometimes.  I kinda miss the fearless sewer that I once was. 

After careful measuring of the pattern for sitting room, I decided to add 1/2-inch to the side seams through the hem starting just below the bust dart.  I did not change the pattern but made a little template.  I have been thinking about the beautiful selvage on this fabric.  I can not think of a way to incorporate it into the dress but here is peak at it and you can see a better picture of the fabric:

So, I have been procrastinating like you would not believe.  Why is it so hard to make a cut right down the middle of a project?  I put it off for days but I finally cut it.  Here is a picture of the basted placket:

 

I stopped at this point because it is night time and black on black is really hard to see for older eyes.  I have not memory of my ability to do this when I was younger.  There are still a couple of decisions to make here and stopping to consider what is next will prevent mistakes. You know that the front placket is not the scary part of making a dress.  The sleeve placket is equally as scary.  Here is the finished plackets:

The plackets are not perfect but good enough.  The remainder of the project should be easy.  The finished dress will be the next project post.

Happy Stitching!