First Fall Winter Classic Shirt...

 I am starting the first of the sewing for the wardrobe post here.  I will be starting witht the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.  Here is the line drawings:

This is a pattern that I fitted over a couple of years and absolutely love it.  I have made two shirts this time.  The first shirt is made from the gray oxford shirting here. It is made using the View A of the pattern and this is the version I have made the most.  Here is the finished shirt:

Well, that is the second piece of the the ten I have planned.  The button holer on the machine gave me a hard time.  I have never had an issue with it before but it seemed that the same size buttonhole was not to be.  I had to redo at least three buttonholes not once but more than once.

I think I will need luck on finishing the remaining eight projects.

Happy Stitching!

1st Classic Shirt....

 The fitted pattern for my Liesl & Co Classic Shirt had gone missing and it took a couple of weeks to locate it.  The first shirt for this season, I am using a stash fabric:

The original post where I discussed using this fabric is here.  While I was pressing it, I found this:

The dreaded flaw marker.  Thankfully, the flaw is fairly close to the edge.  Unfortunately, I was not informed that this was a fabric with a flaw.  I did carefully iron this to make sure that was the only one.  This is the only obvious flaw.  There is a second marker shown in the picture but I could not locate another flaw.  I will try to cut around this section of the fabric.

The actual cutting out of this shirt was a real adventure due to my kittens.  I chose to cut out in a single layer and the kittens seemed to find pins interesting.  They were taking them out almost as fast I was pinning.  It was only certain pins that they found interesting.  The first night was very frustrating but the second day I was able to finish the cutting out.

The adventures continued as the sewing.  Kittens stitching their head through the machine harp.  They continued pulling out every pin that looked interested.  Then, they sewing machine needle.  There was more than once that I thought one of them was going to get a paw under the needle but I was able to thwart every attempt.  

The very last thing that happened to this project is I ran out of thread.  I did start with a new spool of thread but obviously a small spool is not big enough for a button down shirt with lots of topstitching.  Thankful, the local JoAnn Fabrics had the matching thread.  Since I was at JoAnn's, I went ahead and looked at buttons.  It was truly a pitiful selection.  Obviously, the closest store to me is not looking for garment sewers.  There is another nearby store.  It is only a little further away.  Maybe it is time that I investigated it.

Running out of thread kinda put my sewjo off for a few days but I finally finished it.  Here is the result:

I am really happy with the shirt and hope that it will be worn a lot.  There are ton of mistakes but that happens with almost everything that I make anymore.  

On to the next project.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Crepe Shirtdress

 This would be a great dress for a professional job:

This is the Belted Crepe Shirtdress by Lafayette 148 New York. Price tag: $798.00.  Details:  finesse crepe with a matching belt, approximately 39 1/2" from shoulder to hem, spread collar with concealed button front, long sleeves with button cuffs, approximately 6-inch center back slit, sheath silhouette, hem hits around knees, side zipper, acetate/polyester, dry-clean. Model is 5'10".

This is probably one of my favorite versions of a shirtdress that I have seen in a while.  It is dressy enough for the office and makes an easy office outfit.  Red is a power color and every one should have a dress in that color.  I really wish that I could see this particular dress up close as I have no idea how that concealed placket is finished.  Actually, I have never seen this done before on a dress or shirt without a full placket.  Maybe I need to visit the local mall to see if there is anything with this feature.

As far as the pattern, I have never seen a pattern like this.  EVER.  Does this mean our pattern companies are failing to produce patterns with great deals?  Yes, I think so.  So, here is my suggestion:

Use a shirt or shirtdress pattern that you have already fitted.  I used the Classic Shirt pattern by Liesl & Co in September of 2023 to make a shirtdress of a similar style.   Here are the posts - Part 1, Part 2, Part 3.  The instructions that I followed were good.

If you want to figure out the detail of the concealed button front, here is a start.  This is the tutorial that I plan to use to make the Classic Shirt have a concealed button front.

As for the fabric, I do not know what Finesse Crepe is.  So, I would suggest using a crepe that is the highest quality/price that you are comfortable with.  Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Striped Shirt

 This inspiration is all about a classic shirt:

This is the Polo Ralph Lauren Striped Long-Sleeve Cotton Blouse.  Price tag: $148.00. Details:  striped shirt with signature pony, spread collar, button front, long sleeves, button front, box-pleated back yoke, shirttail hem, relaxed fit, cotton, machine washable.  

This is such a classic shirt.  Here is the perfect pattern:

This is the Liesel & Company Classic Shirt pattern.  It has the benefit of having cup sizes which helps with fitting.  As always, use what you have.  If you have a different shirt pattern fitted, use it.  Make those spent dollars work for you. Leaves you more for fabric and notions.  

Fabrics:

1.  Cali Fabrics has a nice selection of striped and other shirtings.  A very good price point.  

2.  Mood Fabrics has a nice selection of striped and other shirtings. A different price point than Cali Fabrics.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful for your everyday wear.   

Happy Stitching!

Inspirtion...Sleeveless Top

I almost exclusively wear sleeveless items in the summer.  Otherwise, I feel like I am melting.  Here is a great sleeveless option:

This is the Pleated Cotton Popeline Blouse by Akris Punto.  Price tag: $595.00.  Details:  kent collar, concealed button front, sleeveless, elongated back, side slits, hip length, features pleating.  Here is a gander at the back:

This is a great little top.  I can see that being worn a lot.  How to make?  I would start with this pattern:

This is the Classic Shirt pattern by Liesl & Co.  Changes would need to be made but that is a good thing when you have a basic shirt pattern.  You can fit one and make it many times.  Things I could change:

1.  Make it sleeveless.  This would entail raising the armscyce and probably narrowing the sleeve. 

2.  Concealed placket. Tutorial here.

3. Add tucks/pleats to front and back.  Tutorial here.  Note that the tucks/pleats are released around the waist.

4.  Straighten hem and perhaps lengthen.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Plaid Classic Shirt...

 It feels good to have another item made for fall/winter.  I have gotten really slow with my sewing.  Here is my latest classic shirt:

The pattern used is the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.  Once you have it fitted, you can make many shirts.  The pattern is the same basic pattern that is used for a button down shirt.  It is very well drafted and has good instructions.  If you head over to the Olive & S website, you will also find a ton of information regarding this pattern.

I cut this version of the classic shirt in a single layer in an attempt to get the horizon stripes to match.  The body of the shirt is great.  I missed by a hair on the sleeves.  The yoke, button placket, cuff, and sleeve placket are all cut on the bias.  

Overall, I am very happy with this shirt and hope it gets a lot of wear.  The weather has been calling for a bit warmer clothing.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Wide Legged Pants

 I am so happy that wide legged pants are making an appearance.  Here is a great plaid pair:

This is the Westbourne Wide-Legged Pants from Boden.  Price tag: $140.00.  Details:  fit through waist and hip with wide leg, full length, side pockets, back jetted pockets, button fastening at center front with zip fly.    (Jetted pockets appear to welted pockets.)

This is a great overall outfit.  My first thought of a pant pattern is:

This is the Liesl & Co Peckham Women's Trousers pdf or pattern pattern.  These pants have just a little bit of elastic at the sides which is different than the inspiration photo.  Here is another option:

This is the Liesl & Co Hollywood Trousers pdf pattern. This is a classic trouser pattern.  This pattern does not have the welt pocket and you would need to add it. 

While we are at it, we might as well make a complete outfit.  Here is the top pattern:

This is the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pdf or paper pattern.  This is my favorite shirt pattern.

If you want to take it a step further, you might add a jacket for a suit like effect:

This is the Closet Core Jasika Jacket pattern.  It is a classic blazer pattern that would look good with anything you want to pair with it - jeans, trousers, skirts.

If you go to the Boden website, you will find lots of inspiration for either the pants or shirt.  Did you know Boden states on their website "Buy better, buy less, wear more." .  That is a good idea for those buying or sewing.  Just something to consider.  

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Button Down Blouse

 Button down blouses/shirts are such a wardrobe staple.  We should have many for every season.  This next blouse I have posted many iterations of it.  This is where having a fitted pattern can result in a great wardrobe.  Here is the top: 

This is the Scottie Printed Silk Button Down Blouse by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $798.00. Details:  spread collar, concealed button placket, long sleeves, wide button cuffs, back yoke, box pleat, relaxed fit, shirttail hem.

I know it is the color that drew me in.  I checked at Cali Fabrics to see what type of prints that might have and there are tons here.  I have not found the exact print or even one similar.   What pattern?  Well, I am going to go to the one I always suggest as it is one that I have fitted.

This is the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  This is a link to the designer site and there is a ton of information for this pattern.  I have found it to be very well drafted.    Here is my preferred method of making a hidden placket at Threads - How to Make a Hidden Button Placket.  As for making changes to the cuff, when you widen the cuff remember to shorten the sleeve.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Next Project...Classic Shirt in Black/Red/Gray Plaid

 Even though the sewjo has been missing or barely there, I am going to continue attempting to work on my fall plans.  My next project will be using the following items:

The is the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.  I made a dress with the last version I made with this pattern.  This is the fabric:

This feels like it is 100% cotton flannel.  I am sure that I purchased it to make the Classic Shirt above.  Given my luck with cutting out plaids doubled, I will be cutting this out in a single layer so that I have some hope of matching the plaids.  At the very least, I want the plaid to match at the center front.  I am not that good of a cutter to get a pattern to match at all points - front/back, shoulders, sleeves.  I suspect some of it has to do with the pattern.  I have just a little over 2 1/2 yards of this fabric.  

My goal is to finish the planned items that already have a fitted pattern first.  These all should have been finished in August and no later than the end of September but as stated early the sewjo have been severely lagging.

Happy Stitching!

Liesl & Co Classic Shirt Dress Part 3..

 The Classic Shirt Dress  has been finished.  Here is the final project:

I wish I had not procrastinated as long as I did but I am very happy with the results.  There was a comedy of errors made - stitched wrong depth of topstitching, sewing wrong side of front facing outward, and the list goes on.  

Happy Stitching!

Liesl & Co Classic Shirt Dress Part 2...

I have really been procrastinating on this dress.  I really have no idea why but I am sure it have something to do cutting the front of the dress to make the button tab.  Okay, I admit I can be chicken sometimes.  I kinda miss the fearless sewer that I once was. 

After careful measuring of the pattern for sitting room, I decided to add 1/2-inch to the side seams through the hem starting just below the bust dart.  I did not change the pattern but made a little template.  I have been thinking about the beautiful selvage on this fabric.  I can not think of a way to incorporate it into the dress but here is peak at it and you can see a better picture of the fabric:

So, I have been procrastinating like you would not believe.  Why is it so hard to make a cut right down the middle of a project?  I put it off for days but I finally cut it.  Here is a picture of the basted placket:

 

I stopped at this point because it is night time and black on black is really hard to see for older eyes.  I have not memory of my ability to do this when I was younger.  There are still a couple of decisions to make here and stopping to consider what is next will prevent mistakes. You know that the front placket is not the scary part of making a dress.  The sleeve placket is equally as scary.  Here is the finished plackets:

The plackets are not perfect but good enough.  The remainder of the project should be easy.  The finished dress will be the next project post.

Happy Stitching!

Fall/Winter 2023 Sewing Plans...

 I really tried to get my sewing plans started early this year along with starting the sewing early but here it is mid-September and sewing has not started.  I kept my sewing plans small so that I could accomplish them.  I am a Seamwork member so I set my project goals as follows with the date ending 11/30/23:

1. The Octave Coat pdf pattern by Love Notions.  This one was planned way back in early July.  I need to get going on it.  Pattern needs fitting.

2.  The Liesl & Co Classic Shirt in a black/blue check.  This one has already changed from a shirt to a dress as I had a lot of fabric and I wanted to use it.  You can read my thoughts here.  I will need to add another shirt.  This fabric is stash.

3.  The Liesl & Co Classic Shirt in red/black/gray plaid.  It is already fitted.  I might as well use it. This fabric is stash.

4.  The Liesl & Co Classic Shirt in periwinkle/gray plaid shirting.  Gotta love a fitted classic shirt pattern.

5.  The Seamwork Piedra knit dress pattern in a gray jersey. This is a simple t-shirt type dress perfect for every day.  Pattern needs fitting.  This fabric is stash.

6.  The Seamwork Tia dress pattern in teal knit.  This is another simple shift type dress that is perfect for every day.  Patterns needs fitting.   This fabric is stash.

I used the bi-annual Design Your Wardrobe to assist with the process.  I no longer follow through all the steps but I follow through enough that I go through my existing fabric stash and pattern stash.  I admit the first couple of times I went through the program it was a little overwhelming.  There is a lot to think about and learn.

So, that is my plan for this season.  I think that I have left myself lots of wildcard stuff so I do not get bored.  After all, I am making three Liesl & Co Class Shirts or a variation of it.  So, half of the plan should be easy to make.  I will definitely sew on other items as well.

I am an affiliate of Seamwork.  Use this link to get 50% off the annual subscription. I do get a small commission at no cost to you.  Fifty percent off is a win-win.  There is more.  Seamwork has various classes.  Some of the classes are free with the membership and some have an additional costs.  The Learn to Sew class has an additional charge.  Click the link for the class and you get $100 off.  That's a pretty good discount.  

Liesl & Co Classic Shirt or Dress - Part 1...

 As I continue to work on reducing the stash (yes, I know it is a laughable thought), I pulled out this fabric:

This picture seems rather dull but I assure you it is royal blue and black check.  I had originally purchased it for a shirt but when I measured I have almost 3 2/3 yards.  I think there is enough for a pop over shirt dress.   I have been looking at the instructions on the Liesl & Co blog here. 

I had my husband measure from the edge of one of my previous Classic Shirts to where I wanted the hem to be located.  He stated it was 15-inches but I am going to make it 16-inches. I need an additional yard of fabric over what the pattern states for the shirt.  This might be close. I guess the pattern pieces will need to be adjusted and then checked with the existing fabric.  I will want the yoke and the placket on the bias.  It is easier to do than attempting to match everything.

Here is the pattern work:

Here you can see where I added a section.  This was added at the shorten or lengthen line.  I ended up adding 14 1/2-inches because when I pulled out the pattern it had 2-inches folded up.  Being a little long is never bad and generally much easier to fix than being too short.

On this photo, you can see where I added the line for the popover dress.  It is the third line from the right or first line on the left.  Sorry for the bad photo.  It is really hard to get pictures of this sort of thing when most every line is faint.

This is all the pieces that I have added "cut on the bias" lines.  

I think that the pattern work is finished.  Now, it is time to get the fabric pressed, pattern laid out, and cut.

Happy Stitching!

Boom...More Fabric

 I have worked really hard this year not to buy to over purchase fabric.  I have done a fair job but more fabric is on the way.  Here it is:

This is a navy/white grunge geometric nylon/viscose/spandex stretch twill. Two yards was purchased.  It is 60" wide, mid-weight, 2-way 35% stretch, machine wash cold, tumble dry,  This is definitely for the stash and next spring.  It will either become a sleeveless dress or a pair of pants.  It will be determined next year.

This is a Periwinkle & Gray Plaid Fine Cotton Shirting.  I purchased three yards.  It is 100% cotton, lightweight, no stretch.  Machine wash and tumble dry low.  It is destined to be Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.  

Hopefully the shirting will be used this fall.  That is my plan anyway.

Happy Stitching!

Project Planning...

 I am still working on fall/winter projects (project 1 and project 2/3).  The stash is yielding a lot of previous planned projects.  Here is the first fabric:

This is fabric that I purchased way back in July 2021.  There is three yards which should be perfect for a shirt.  Here is another fabric:

This is another three yard piece.  I do not know how long it has been in the stash.  Longer than I have been documenting each purchase with the intended pattern.  

I have already fitted this pattern:

This is the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.  It is already fitted which should make making the tops quick and easy unless I decide to change a detail or two or three.  

I am trying to not over plan as I tend to not finish projects because the "new and shiny" grab my attention.  I guess those are the wild cards that should always be allowed for.

How is your planning going for the next season?

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Striped Shirt

Moving on to cooler weather.  Today's inspiration is a long sleeved shirt:

This is the Striped Button Down Cotton Shirt by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $598.00.  Details: approximately 31-inches from the shoulder to hem, pointed collar, button front, long sleeves, button cuff, chest pocket, box-pleat back yoke, shirt tail hem, relaxed fit, unlined. 

This is a classic shirt pattern and this is the pattern I would use:

This is the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  I have this shirt pattern fitted already and intend to use it a lot.  It is not as relaxed as the inspiration photo but I think you could get away with adding a bit at the sides.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Classic Buttondown Shirt...

 It seems that I did not post the results of the Classic Shirt muslin before moving on to the first version.  I think the changes were fairly small.  I increased the bust dart and shaped it.  That alteration added length to the front.  Reduced the length of the shirt body and sleeves by 1 1/2 inches.  I had a beautiful shirting that has been hanging out in the stash for a while.  So, I pulled it out to use.  Here are the results:

I used my Bernette B77 to make this shirt.  This is not the first project that I have made using this machine but it the most complicated one to date.  The feet on this machine do not have good markings on them.  It is easy enough to do topstitching on an outside edge but it is not so easy to get a good topstitch on the inside.  I ended up using this foot:

This is the B77 embroidery foot.  The blue line points at what I used to do edge stitching.  It made a stitch about 1/16-inch from the edge.  Perfect.  The red points points at another spot and it is 1/4-inch from the edge.  Here is a close up of the stitching:

Here is a picture of the inside topstitching:

The B77 makes a beautiful buttonhole.  This is an example of buttonhole #51which is a standard buttonhole:

I used the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  This pattern is very well drafted.  The instructions are well written.  I can see many of these shirts in the future.

Happy Stitching!

(Affiliate link included.  I receive a small commission should you purchase.)

Classic Shirt Muslin, Round 2

 The Classic Shirt is getting a bit closer.  In the last post, I gave myself homework.  The first item was to move the bust dart down.  I accomplished this by slicing the shirt and inserting fabric.  It turned out that this was not necessary.  If you look at the post, I did state that this was an unusual alteration for me.  Turns out to be a bra issue.   The second item was that I increased the size of the dart.  I increase was 1/4" removing 1/2" in length on the side.  This seemed to work.  I also curved the dart.  Here are the results with the sleeves added:

Front with the sleeves.  The shoulders still fit well.  The darts look high here but I suspect that again it is a bra issue.  You can also see that the alteration that I had made to lower the dart.  Here it is closed.

Here is the left side.  I can still see a little of issues here but I think I am not going to make any additional changes here.  The sleeve is tight.  I am going to recut the sleeve to the next size and transfer the armscye changes to the shirt.  This is how RTW shirts fit me.

Here is the back.  I am happy with the fit of the back.  There is no tightness.

Here is the right side.  The dart looks good.  The sleeve on the right side is tight but not as tight as the left side.  

I will continue with this muslin base.  Here is my homework:

1.  Remove side seams and sleeve from muslin body.

2.  Trace a larger sleeve, and cut out the sleeve and cuffs.

3. Modify the existing shirt pattern to make armscye match the larger sleeve.  

In looking at the picture, I can see that the shirt is overall too long. Even though the picture does not show a hem, a 1/2" hem is not going to make much difference.  The hem length is more like a tunic length on me.

This is a lot to do but with any luck I can get it done quickly. I really would like a shirt or two for fall and winter this year.

Happy Stitching!

Classic Shirt Muslin....

 I gave up on my dress muslin and have moved on to fall and winter items.  I have started leaning more toward wovens items so I am starting with a classic button down shirt. This is the pattern that I have chosen:

This is Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  I chose this pattern because it has a very classic look and has bust darts.  

As with many patterns, there is not much opportunity to fit before having to sew a large portion of the pattern.  With that said, here is my version with front/back and collar completed:

I have the side seams pinned in here so I could get an idea of what of the fit through the shoulders and body.  This is a really good first round. There are only two things I see.  First, the dart is too high.  Second, the dart needs to be a little deeper.  The dart being too high for me is an unusually alteration for me.  Here are additional photos:

Here is a view of the right side.  I think you can really tell here that the dart is way too high and you can see the tell tell signs of needing a larger dart.  The shoulder area does not look bad.  On to the next picture:

Here is a view of the left side.  I think this side really shows the need for a larger dart.  The back:

The back is not bad.  I am a little concerned about the depth of the armscye but I will wait to see how the sleeve fits or does not fit.  I admit I forgot to measure the sleeve before cutting out.  

I try to only make one muslin so my changes are going to made to this muslin and it is going to get ugly from here.  Here is the change that I am going to attempt and then I will proceed with the side seams and sleeves:

1.  I am going to drop the dart by 1 1/8".  This will be me slices across the front and inserting fabric.

2.  I am going to increase the size of the dart.  I will drape this change after moving the dart to the correct.  This is assuming that I still need this.

Now that I have assigned myself additional homework, have you made this blouse?  How did it turn out for you?

Happy Sewing!

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