Tuesday, August 31, 2021

Classic Shirt Muslin, Round 2

 The Classic Shirt is getting a bit closer.  In the last post, I gave myself homework.  The first item was to move the bust dart down.  I accomplished this by slicing the shirt and inserting fabric.  It turned out that this was not necessary.  If you look at the post, I did state that this was an unusual alteration for me.  Turns out to be a bra issue.   The second item was that I increased the size of the dart.  I increase was 1/4" removing 1/2" in length on the side.  This seemed to work.  I also curved the dart.  Here are the results with the sleeves added:


Front with the sleeves.  The shoulders still fit well.  The darts look high here but I suspect that again it is a bra issue.  You can also see that the alteration that I had made to lower the dart.  Here it is closed.


Here is the left side.  I can still see a little of issues here but I think I am not going to make any additional changes here.  The sleeve is tight.  I am going to recut the sleeve to the next size and transfer the armscye changes to the shirt.  This is how RTW shirts fit me.


Here is the back.  I am happy with the fit of the back.  There is no tightness.


Here is the right side.  The dart looks good.  The sleeve on the right side is tight but not as tight as the left side.  

I will continue with this muslin base.  Here is my homework:

1.  Remove side seams and sleeve from muslin body.

2.  Trace a larger sleeve, and cut out the sleeve and cuffs.

3. Modify the existing shirt pattern to make armscye match the larger sleeve.  

In looking at the picture, I can see that the shirt is overall too long. Even though the picture does not show a hem, a 1/2" hem is not going to make much difference.  The hem length is more like a tunic length on me.

This is a lot to do but with any luck I can get it done quickly. I really would like a shirt or two for fall and winter this year.

Happy Stitching!

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