Friday, June 30, 2023

Book Review...Create The Perfect Fit

 I always seem to miss the deadline at the library for returning books.  Of course, this gives me a good excuse to look at sewing books.  I found a good one today - Create The Perfect Fit by Joi Mahon.  I have seen the author's name from time to time but I do not know much about her.  This book is direct and to the point.  It is about fitting  but more importantly explains actually measuring your body and measuring the pattern.  Everyone should take the time to measure your body both horizontally and vertically.  

I believe that most people know to measure their bust and hips when purchasing a pattern range.  Then, get upset when the pattern does not fit out of the package.  I admit this has happened to me.  Only because I went from not having many issues with pattern to "why doesn't anything fit anymore?".  It is all about age, in my opinion. 

The book is broke down into chapters:

Chapter 1 - the basics tools needed, measuring yourself and the pattern, solving issues before cutting

Chapter 2 - vertical torso adjustments

Chapter 3 - horizontal torso adjustments

Chapter 4 - vertical lower body adjustments

Chapter 5 - horizontal lower body adjustments

Chapter 6 - vertical arm adjustments

Chapter 7 - horizontal arm adjusments

Chapter 8 - ease and polished fit

Chapter 9 - garment application workbook

Chapter 10 - Real bodies, real fit 


This thinking corresponds with some of the techniques that Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns has taught for years - LCD or length circumference depth.  I use a lot of fitting techniques from Peggy but I think I be able to do better.  I am going to work through the book and see how things look with my basic patterns afterward.  How nice would it be if that muslin only needed minor tweaks to fit?  I do not remember in any of the sewing classes that I have taken any mention of needing to know vertical measurements.  Those numbers are really important.  The Vogue Sewing Book does state to take those measurements.  Yes, I knew to take them be brushed it off as unimportant.  Age has been teaching me that it is important. 

As I work through this book, I will update from time to time to tell you how the patterns look compared to my measurements.  Circumference is not usually an issue because I purchase by hip/waist with the exception of the arm.  Length though is a different animal all together.  I have only recently been checking lengths on a pattern verses lengths on me and it has been a real eye opener.

Have you read/followed this book?  How did it work out for you?    What do you for fitting? Just guess, make a muslin and adjust, etc.

Happy Stitching!

Thursday, June 29, 2023

Inspiration...A-line Dress

 This is another fabulous a-line dress.  Perfect for hot summer days or the office.



This is the Elbow-Sleeve A-Line Midi Dress by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $698.00. Details:  Approximately 37-inches from shoulder to hem, notched collar, elbow-length sleeve, yoked back, on-seam pockets, hem hits around knee, a-line silhouette, pullover style, unlined, viscose/elastane fabric,  dry clean.  Model is 5'10".  Here is a close up of the pocket area:


The way the pocket area is done reminds me of slot seams.  Although I like the hidden pocket, I am not so sure about the large breast pocket.  The first pattern that came to mind is this one:


This is the Gallery Tunic + Dress pattern by Liesl & Co.  The pattern is a little different than the inspiration photo - yokes would need to be added, pockets would need to be added, sleeves shortened,  hem straightened but I think the basics are there.  This pattern does have a pleat that the inspiration photo does not have.  You might be able to remove it.  

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Tuesday, June 27, 2023

Sewjo Has Returned...

 I do not know why the sewjo gets up and goes but it does once in a while.  This time is started around the first of May but I can say that it has ended.   There is a new project on the way - a great summer dress.  I wear dresses daily when the heat index soars.

However even when the sewjo takes a vacation, I still thinking about sewing.  That seems to be when I plan and purchase.  I did try to limit the purchasing but I still purchased both patterns and fabric during this time.  Both are things that I have been trying to sloow down on doing as my sewing area is stuffed.  

What do you do when the sewjo takes a vacation?

Happy Stitching!

Monday, June 26, 2023

Inspiration...Sheath Dress

 I am all for a good dress in the heat of summer.  


This is the Postcards-Print Vintage Cotton Canvas Sheath Dress by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $898.00.  Details:  Jewel neckline, sleeveless, vertical waist darts, hem around knee, a-line silhouette, invisible back zipper, unlined, length approximately 35 1/2-inches, dry-clean only.  Model is 5'10".  

This dress is all about the fabric.  I do not know that I have ever seen fabric exactly like this.  If you have, please send me a link.  As far as a pattern goes, I am going with my fall back shift dress pattern:


Yep, New Look 6500.  This is a classic shift dress pattern.  All you need to do is add some waist darts front and back to snug it up (or not).  

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Monday, June 19, 2023

And One More Fabric...

Imagine my surprise when I opened my Fabric Mart package and found four fabrics and not three as I had thought. I checked my order receipt online and it showed three fabrcis. Then I noticed at the very bottom "View all ordered items" and clicked. Magically, the fourth fabric showed up. Here it is:
This is 100% rayon challis. It is machine washable - gentle cycle.  I purchased 2 1/4 yards.  This is intended to be a Love Notions Cadence Top with short sleeves.  It seems like a lot of fabric but I guess I will find out. 

Happy Stitching!

Thursday, June 15, 2023

Fabric, fabric, fabric...

 Fabric keeps coming in.  I suppose if I was not looking it would not be coming. Here is the latest purchases:


This is a blue/white 100% cotton jersey.  It should be pure luxury.  I purchased 1 1/4 yards to make a Love Notions classic t-shirt.  Machine wash.


This is a black/white rayon/nylon/lycra bengaline suiting.  It should be perfect for a pair of pants.  I got 2 yards. Washing is gentle care.  My intentions is for either one of the Love Notions patterns or maybe, Clover pant.



This is a black/white polyester/rayon loopy tweed suiting.  I thought this would be perfect for the Love Notions Octave Coat.  I have some stretch faux leather that might just match for a contrasting collar.  Purchased 3 1/2 yds.  Machine care:  gentle wash.

I have no idea where I am going to put this fabric because folks I am full.  In fact, I am past full.  

Happy Stitching!


Tuesday, June 13, 2023

I Just Can Not Stop Myself...

 What can I not stop myself from doing?  Buying patterns.  I have slowed the fabric buying down immensely.  Here is the line drawing of my latest purchase:


Yep, this is the Love Notions Cadence Dress and Top pdf pattern.  It was on sale this past Friday and since it is like a woven t-shirt I decided to get it.  There are a lot of options with this pattern - 2 necklines, 5 sleeves, 3 lengths, and a full bust option. 

I do not know when I will get to this but hopefully before the end of summer.

Do you find yourself purchasing patterns?  

Happy Stitching!

Thursday, June 8, 2023

Inspiration...Fringed Top

 I do not usually go for anything fringed but this top is the exception.  Here it is:


This is the Akris punto Fringe Detail Blouse.  Price tag: $495.00.  Details:  viscose blend with fringe hem details, round neckline, sleeveless, back zip closure, side slits, hip length, relaxed fit.

This one is worth looking at close up at the Neiman Marcus website.  It has that pieced vibe going on.  As for the pattern, I think that my favorite tank pattern would well along with the fact that it is already fitted.  


This is a free pattern from fabrics-store.com.  It is the Phoebe Tank and well worth taking the time to fit.  This pattern is a pull-over but you can change it.  I think I would be tempted to leave out the zipper and just put in a back yoke so you could have fringe across the back.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Tuesday, June 6, 2023

Memory Lane...

 I  have been slowing working on my sewing room and cleaning it up again.  I have a little chest of drawers that I have supplies in but it has gotten where I can not locate stuff in it.  The mess in the chest is just a symptom of the whole room in generally.  So, it is clean up time starting with that little chest.  Each drawer will be dedicated to particular items.  In going through the drawers, I have found the following items which most likely were done in the mid-to-late 80's:






Unfinished projects.  I believe that the cross stitch is finished but they are unframed.  Money was very tight during that time period so I am guessing that is the reason that they had not been framed.  I will check to see about framing now.  I still like the pictures.

Off to do more cleaning.  I will like to get as much tucked away as possible as it is getting harder and harder to work in my sewing area.

Happy Stitching!


Monday, June 5, 2023

Itch To Stitch...Santorini Tank

 Itch to Stitch has released a new summer tank for woven fabric.  It will be on 20% off through June 11, 2023.  Here is the line drawings:


The Santorini Tank pdf pattern has options for bust cups, round neckline, front and back princess seams from the neck, neckline and armhole finished in all-in-one facing, buttoned on the side, designed for non-stretch wovens, and falls at high hip.   The design lines would make this an easy top to color block.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.  All purchasing discounts still apply.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Patchwork Dress

 Patchwork seems to be everywhere this season but it sure is a great way to use up those bits and pieces that you can not bring yourself to get rid of.  Here is a great little dress:

This is the Akris punto Washed Denim Patchwork Short Dress With Belt. Price tag: $1298.00.  Details: patchwork styling, round neckline, sleeveless, back zip closure, belted waist, a-line silhouette, lined.

This is such a great way to use up leftover fabric.  I would try to match the types of fabric - linen, linen/cotton, cotton.  Who has not had to purchase more fabric than they needed?  Many times you have to purchase in whole yards.  Here a pattern suggestion:



This is a classic shift dress pattern - New Look 6500.  The last I checked it is still available.  Any shift dress pattern that you have available and fitted works for this.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Thursday, June 1, 2023

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions...

 I am having such a hard time deciding what to do next in my sewing list.  Usually, I just move from one project to the next happily.  Unless I have made the pattern before, there is always a muslin of some sort.  Here is the projects the I am pondering:


This dress pattern with the following fabric:


The pattern is already fitted kinda.  There may need to be some tweaks.  The only decision is to line or not.  Since this is a stretch fabric, I may not line it but I will definitely do the one piece facing.  Next item:


This is the  Taroko Skirt pdf pattern by Itch to Stitch.  I found a piece of khaki fabric that I think will work.  Stash reduction is always good, right?  Then there is this skirt:


This is the Merchant & Mills Clementine Skirt and I am planning this fabric:

The next project that I am considering is this dress:


with this fabric:


This pattern needs to be refitted as I misplaced the fitted pattern and the pattern which resulted in my finally repurchasing the pattern.  Then this pattern:


with this fabric:


 This pattern needs to be refitted as well.  

Folks, there is more planned projects.  I need to quit planning new projects and work on the projects that I already have planned.  I think you can see my dilemma.  It is just so hard to chose.  I want all of these projects.  All patterns need fitted.  One needs minor changes.  Guess I will pick one and go.  You will see what I picked soon.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.  Should you purchase anything from the provided links, I will receive a small commission at no cost to you.  Thank you.

Happy Stitching!