Book Review...Create The Perfect Fit

 I always seem to miss the deadline at the library for returning books.  Of course, this gives me a good excuse to look at sewing books.  I found a good one today - Create The Perfect Fit by Joi Mahon.  I have seen the author's name from time to time but I do not know much about her.  This book is direct and to the point.  It is about fitting  but more importantly explains actually measuring your body and measuring the pattern.  Everyone should take the time to measure your body both horizontally and vertically.  

I believe that most people know to measure their bust and hips when purchasing a pattern range.  Then, get upset when the pattern does not fit out of the package.  I admit this has happened to me.  Only because I went from not having many issues with pattern to "why doesn't anything fit anymore?".  It is all about age, in my opinion. 

The book is broke down into chapters:

Chapter 1 - the basics tools needed, measuring yourself and the pattern, solving issues before cutting

Chapter 2 - vertical torso adjustments

Chapter 3 - horizontal torso adjustments

Chapter 4 - vertical lower body adjustments

Chapter 5 - horizontal lower body adjustments

Chapter 6 - vertical arm adjustments

Chapter 7 - horizontal arm adjusments

Chapter 8 - ease and polished fit

Chapter 9 - garment application workbook

Chapter 10 - Real bodies, real fit 

This thinking corresponds with some of the techniques that Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns has taught for years - LCD or length circumference depth.  I use a lot of fitting techniques from Peggy but I think I be able to do better.  I am going to work through the book and see how things look with my basic patterns afterward.  How nice would it be if that muslin only needed minor tweaks to fit?  I do not remember in any of the sewing classes that I have taken any mention of needing to know vertical measurements.  Those numbers are really important.  The Vogue Sewing Book does state to take those measurements.  Yes, I knew to take them be brushed it off as unimportant.  Age has been teaching me that it is important. 

As I work through this book, I will update from time to time to tell you how the patterns look compared to my measurements.  Circumference is not usually an issue because I purchase by hip/waist with the exception of the arm.  Length though is a different animal all together.  I have only recently been checking lengths on a pattern verses lengths on me and it has been a real eye opener.

Have you read/followed this book?  How did it work out for you?    What do you for fitting? Just guess, make a muslin and adjust, etc.

Happy Stitching!

Book Review...The Act of Sewing

 I found The Act of Sewing by Sonya Philip recently at my local library.  I am familiar with the author as she is the designer behind 100 Acts of Sewing Patterns which is a basic sewing pattern line.  Look it up.  

The book starts like many sewing books do now listing tools and techniques, discussing terminology, fabric, working with patterns, seam finishes, hems, and finishing curved edges.  All necessary for beginning sewing. Next, we hop into the section where the gold is.  The gold being the patterns.  This book contains four patterns - top, pants, skirt, and shirt.  This chapter provides the instructions for each pattern.  There is suggestions on making a muslin for each pattern.

The next section is where things start getting interesting - shorten/length, make wider/narrower, shoulder adjustments, bust/chest adjustments, and rise/seat adjustments.  Making the muslin can help you  determine what changes are needed to fit the pattern the way you want it to fit.  Next, discussion of various neckline styles and how to achieve them; different types of closures and facings; sleeves changes and how to achieve them; how to change the body of the garment by adding yokes and button plackets; waistband changes; different types of hems; adding embellishments such as gathers, pleats, tucks, ruching, and pockets.

The next section is all about combining the patterns to make a dress, a tunic, a tie-front shirt, and a jumpsuit.

All in all, this is a great book.  I do think that a beginner could do something with the patterns in this book and make pattern changes as well.  The book is a good investment if you are willing to try the patterns. 

I have added it to my library.  I think next year I will be playing a lot with the patterns in this book.  I just need to check the stash and see what might be appropriate there.  If I do not much in the stash and that is possible, then I was start looking for fabric that would be appropriate for the various projects.  

I am thinking of a lot of possibilities especially with playing with necklines.  As much as I like getting new patterns, it is very frustrating to do the fitting on each individual pattern.  It is very freeing to use the same pattern over and over.  I must have made five tank tops using the fabrics-store tank pattern and it was free.  

Hope I have given you food for thought.

Happy Stitching!

Books, Books, and More Books

 Yes, I purchased more books.  I have a thing for books.  They are pure entertainment.  There was an author from the 70s and 80s that did some fantastic sewing related books and I happened upon a couple that I had not heard of before.  Both books are machine embroidery related.   Here they are:

The is the older of the two books.  It is from the 70s.  This is before electronic machines.  Just flipping though reminds a little of the Singer Instructions for Art Embroidery and Lace Work (yes, this book is also in my library). 

This book is from the mid-80s.  It seems to be an updated version of the previous book.  It talks a bit about the automated stitches.  Yes, this is the early computerized sewing machines.  By the time this book was printed, I owned a Necchi Logica 592.  It was in impulse buy but I loved that machine.  I was spoiled and didn't realize it until much later.

Since the two books are so similar, I may work through sections of the book and share the results.  

Have you seen either of these books?  My library contains a quilting book by Robbie and Tony Fanning.  If you can find a copy, it is worth every penny.

Happy Stitching!