Inspiration...Linen Top

 Summer time is meant for linen.  I believe it is also meant for sleeveless tops on those really hot days of summer and this top definitely qualifies.

This is the Sophia Linen Top from Boden.  Price tag: $110.00.  Details:  100% linen, straight not too tight, machine washable, designed to fall between the waist and the hip, keyhole and button fastening at back neckline.

I love this top.  I do not have any striped fabric stashed. I am sure if you look that a similar look can be found.  Here is the pattern:

This is the Phoebe Tank from fabrics-store.com.  This pattern would definitely need to be fitted but once it is done you can make many woven tank tops.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Sewing!

Inspiration...Linen Top and Skirt

 I really enjoy wearing linen tops and bottoms in the summer.  This inspiration outfit is beautiful:

This is the Lafayette 148 3D Carnation Raw Linen Sleeveless Top and Midi Skirt.  Price tag: Top - $695.00, Skirt - $895.00. Details: Top - sleeveless, crew neckline, relaxed fit, invisible back zipper, linen, dry clean.  Skirt - high waist, hem fails below knee, a-line silhouette, invisible back zipper, linen, dry clean.

This is a perfect silhouette for summer.  It is even dressy if you put this applique on.  

This is the Phoebe Tank from fabrics-store dot com.  It is a free pattern and might take time to fit but it is worth it.  I have made around seven of these tanks and they are worn all the time.

This is McCall's 8510.  View A of the pattern looks like it might work for the inspiration photo.  Although it is more like a 1/2 circle skirt so it may be too full.  

In reality, there are not any skirt patterns that I could find in the big four that matches this simple skirt not there were not a lot of nice skirt patterns.  

If you have a straight skirt pattern fitted, this tutorial shows how to draft an a-line skirt using an existing pattern.  This would be an ideal solution and help with the fitting portion of making a new item.  Here is a tutorial on how to draft an a-line skirt using your measurements.

There is also a chance that you can find a pattern on Etsy.  

Here is a tutorial on making 3D flowers.  Hope it is useful.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Silk Top

 Here is a little bit of inspiration for late summer and early fall:

This is Lafayette 148 New York Adela Sleeveless Blouse.  Price tag: $598.00.  Details:  Approximately 27-inches from shoulder to hem, round neckline, sleeveless, relaxed fit, back neck slit with inside button, silk/elastine, dry clean only.

This top looks very similar to my favorite fabric-stores dot com freebie tank - Phoebe.  You need to have an account with this company to download free patterns. Here is a glimpse at the pattern:

This pattern will need to be fitted.  This pattern does not have a center back seam for a bit of shaping but you can add one.

Seriously, you can make several silk tanks for the price tag on this one.  Here are a few shops to consider:

1. Chinese ebay seller - stretch silk charmeuse

2.  NY Designer Fabrics - stretch silk charmeuse

3.  Mood Fabrics - stretch silk charmeuse

I have listed this from least expensive to most expensive.  Mood has the most colors of the fabric.  For a muslin fabric, I would use a polyester or rayon charmeuse before cutting into the more expensive fabric.  For me, it one took 1 yard of fabric to make a tank in the Phoebe.  Hope you are inspired to create something wondeful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Fringed Top

 I do not usually go for anything fringed but this top is the exception.  Here it is:

This is the Akris punto Fringe Detail Blouse.  Price tag: $495.00.  Details:  viscose blend with fringe hem details, round neckline, sleeveless, back zip closure, side slits, hip length, relaxed fit.

This one is worth looking at close up at the Neiman Marcus website.  It has that pieced vibe going on.  As for the pattern, I think that my favorite tank pattern would well along with the fact that it is already fitted.  

This is a free pattern from fabrics-store.com.  It is the Phoebe Tank and well worth taking the time to fit.  This pattern is a pull-over but you can change it.  I think I would be tempted to leave out the zipper and just put in a back yoke so you could have fringe across the back.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Allegro Bottom Pants and Phoebe Tank...

 The final bit of sewing for the month of April.  Another pair of Allegro Bottoms pants in linen and another Phoebe Tank.  There is certainly something to be said about fitting a pattern and using it more than once.  It makes sewing much more enjoyable and satisfying.  Here is the Allegro Bottoms in a navy linen:

Here is the Phoebe Tank is a shade of blue linen:

I actually purchased these two linens to go together but I do not think I will wear them together.  I suppose that makes this tank an orphan.  The pants are such a great neutral that they will never be an orphan.  I guess we will see in the future what I find to go with this tank.  This will be the last Phoebe tank this year unless I decide to make it into a dress.

Happy Stitching!

Friday Update...

 Looks like the Friday updates may be bi-weekly instead of weekly.  I have been relatively busy changing decor at my house - post 1 and post 2.  Maybe this next week I will start the slipcovers.  They really should not be hard just time consuming figuring out what needs to be done.  

I made another tank made.  I am very happy with the fit of the sleeveless armhole.  I may make another version of this tank but I think it will be the last for this year unless I decide to follow through and make a tank dress.  

Also, I made a t-shirt from the Loves Notions Classic Tee Shirt pattern.  I love the fabric.  The pattern needs more tweaking for me.  It is wearable even with it's flaws.  I have many pieces of fabric destined for t-shirts.  

I  purchased more fabric.  The blue linen is destined to become another tank.  I love the color and wish that I had picked up more than a remnant.  

I have started working on the Allegro Bottoms pants pattern.  I need to work out the sizing before I get too far.  I traced and started working on a size 14 and decided that I needed to rework the sizing as I did not think I had enough room.  I am planning two pair of pants in linen and tight would probably pull the seams out.  

I have been working through another season of the Design Your Wardrobe at Seamwork.  I do not follow through with every lesson but it does seem to help a bit with my planning.  Most of what I have made or planned has been the linen from Fabrics-store.com.  I have a real love for linen.  

I also purchased the Love Notions Duet Trousers Course.  This is the first time that I have taken a class from this site but I decided to give it a try.  I had purchased the pattern a couple of years ago and it has been updated now with more sizes and a fully belly adjustment which I thought was interesting.  Anyway, you may see me attempting that pant was well in the near future.  Karina at Pins & Needles just made a pair of the Duet Trousers in linen and put her own spin it.  It is worth watching.  It gives me all kinds of ideas.

Happy Stitching!

Another Tweak Another Tank...

 After making the tank here, I decided just a little more tweaking was necessary.  Here are the changes (sorry, it is a little light but you can zoom in):

The is the back of the Phoebe Tank pattern.  I keep the original alterations and added 5/8-inch at the hipline to nothing at the armscye.  

This is the pattern that I went back to the start on,  The last muslin, I made the bust dart and then closed the dart.  Then made a tank.  The pattern still needed a bit of tweaking.  I made a change that I do not usually attempt.  Since I was still getting a little bit of gapping at the armscye, I made a dart and transferred it to the hem.  If you zoom in, you can see where I had corrected the width of the pattern along with all the dart changes.  I also decided to make a small change to the 3/8-inch that I had added to the side with the last muslin.  I left the 3/8-inch at the bust and took it to nothing at the bottom.  Hoping this will help with the extra fabric in the front.  Okay, I know it is only 3/4-inch difference but it will help.

Here is the result of the those effort in white linen:

I think I nailed the fit at the armscye.  It looks pretty good,

In linen, there is not much wrinkling around the bust on the left side but I think I stretched the hem when I was pressing the hem.  Guess I see what it looks like after the next wash,

I fairly happy with the fit here.  Yeah, there is a little bit of wrinkling but I suspect that the fabric is hanging on my jeans.  I could be wrong.

The right side shows just a tad of wrinkling around the bust.  I think I am going to call this done.  All that needs to be done now is trace the front pattern piece and date it.  

I already have another piece of linen coming for another tank in this pattern.  I had been thinking about making a dress from this pattern.  We will see.  I have lots of clothes.  I need to concentrate on some bottoms so my next muslin will be pants.  Most likely Love Notions Allegro Bottoms pattern.

Happy Stitching!

Buying Spree Continues...

 I had done well with not purchasing fabric in the last few months.  March has been a buying month.  Mostly linen fabrics from the fabrics-store.com.  They have very nice linen and have caused me to become addicted.  Here are my latest acquisitions:

I purchased a 1 yard cut of this mid-weight linen.  I intend for it to become another tank top.  Linen tank tops rule when it is 100F.

I purchased 2 yards of the dress blue linen.  I intend for this to become pants.  Now I just need to get the pant pattern re-fitted.  Always something slowing me down.

Happy Stitching!

Phoebe Tank Muslin III And A Tank...

 I admit that I am getting very bored of this pattern.  It is a good basic to have fitted but blah.  

I made the following adjusts:

1.  Started back at the beginning with the original pattern front.

2.  Took the opportunity to make the raised armscye from the previously altered pattern.

3.  Added 1/4-inch to the side seams of the front pattern after measuring the pattern. 

4.  When stitching the seam sides, I pinned the back to have 1/4-inch seam. 

Here are the results:

Okay I got a little ahead of myself and started pinning in the front dart.  you can see that it seems to flat on the side that has the dart.  There is a bit of visible gapping on the opposite side. There is a tad bit of vertical wrinkles on the front and it could be a bit too much width. 

It appears to be hanging smoothly front and back at the armhole.  Not sure about the hang of the front.  Could be my belly causing that.   The side seam seems to be hanging straight.

This photo shows the armscyce gapping and the need for a dart.  

This is such a bad picture.  It really is hard to take your own picture.  I can see gapping at the neckline.  The armscye is not uncomfortable but I am wondering if I need a little more length in the back.  This would be a different alteration for me as I would open it up all the was across. Probably not by much, maybe 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch.  I can insert a piece of fabric.

Well, I moved forward with the alterations and then, followed through and cut out from some treasured Liberty of London fabric.  Here are the results:

I still see a few wrinkles.  Sigh!

Just a hit of needing a larger full bust adjustment and a tiny bit of gapping at the armscye.  

It looks like the extra width that I added worked.  Just a little more circumference at the hip in the back and I should be good.  There is no gapping at the neckline.

I can see the need for a larger bust dart but this is what got me into trouble with the first couple of muslins.  The hem is hanging fairly straight and if make the intake on the dart larger, I am not sure that it will hang correctly.  Although it looks like it is swinging forward.  I will need to think about this with the next tank.  Maybe I am just not going to get a wrinkle free look.

Happy Stitching!

Phoebe Tank Muslin II Pattern Work...

 Here is the pattern work for the changes from the last Phoebe Tank Muslin:

In this picture, I have taken the traced front and added the bust point.  From there, I added a horizontal line going through the bust point from side-to-side and a vertical line going down from the bust point to the hem.

Since the intake for the dart in the muslin was 1 1/4-inches, I increased the length by 2 1/2-inches.  I used the horizontal line through the bust point for this.

On the last muslin, I decided that it was pulling ever so slightly through the bust.  So, I added a 1/4-inch to the width at the vertical line.  Also, I folded in the dart adding the dart shaping.

 

Here I cut the vertical line all the way to the bust point and closed the dart.  This caused the hem line to swing outward.  

Here I filled in the bottom portion of the open section at the hem.  Then, took the original fitted to slim down the area that increased width because of moving the dart from the side to the bottom.  Finally step hem was to use a curved ruler to draw in the new curved hem.  If this fits, I will retrace another fitted front for the pattern.

Here is the new muslin:

Well, honestly, I do not see a lot of difference between the front of version 2 and version 1.  I still see gaping at the armhole and plenty of wrinkles indicating that I need a FBA, which has already been done.

The side view definitely shows that the wrinkles around the bust need additional attention and a small amount of gapping at the armhole.

Back has had no changes.  Something I see now is that I may need a little more length just below the neckline.  The neckline does not appear to be laying flat.

 

Again, the reoccurring issue with the bust area and the gapping at the armhole.  The front is too long.  

I can not leave well enough alone.  This front version still needs work.  Here is me playing a little more:

I have pinned in a dart from the armscye which resulted in no gaping and I can still pinch in another at the bustline.  Something is not right here.  I am thinking that I need to start over with the original pattern.  UGH!  

I do not usually do more than one muslin.  I am definitely going to start over on the front.  The back fits mostly.  I think a little more room in the hip is needed.  How did I ever wear the other tops that I made?  I thought that they fitted fairly well but maybe not.  

So, my next steps are to retrace the originally pattern not the "fitted" pattern that I had.  Although, I will most likely go ahead and raise the armscye as I had to raise it significantly.  Well see what happens with the next muslin version.

Happy Stitching!

Phoebe Tank Muslin...

 In 2020, I spent a great deal of time living with my parents.  I took the time to fit some great patterns which the Fabrics-store Phoebe Tank was one.  This is a free pattern and well worth checking out.  I thought that I had lost the fitted copy of this pattern and much to my amazement I found it.  

So, I made a copy of the fitted pattern and cut it out in muslin.  Here are the results:

The front is showing that I definitely need a little more circumference and a larger invisible dart.

This picture just reinforces the need for a larger dart.  There is gapping at the armsyce and pulling under the bust.  I think I need a wee bit more circumference in the front.

The back is not too bad.  I am not going to address the tiny bit of wrinkling as it could be will be that I need a little more circumference in the hip area.  It will be address when I re-work the front.

Again, you can see the gapping at the armscye.  Here is the result when I pulled out the pins and starting pinning in a deeper dart: 

Here you can see that the pinning in of a larger dart addressed the armscye gapping.  

Side view of the dart.  The armscye looks good.  

For this view, I changed my bra to see how the fitting changes looked.  Still good, I think.

Here you can see how much of an intact that was done with the pinning.  It is a lot.  That is 1 1/4 inches which is 2 1/2 inches.  I have already made an invisible dart on this pattern.  So to me, this is a huge amount.  I will get this transferred to my pattern and create another invisible dart.

I intend to make a new tank out the white linen that I purchased in February.  You can check it out here.  Since I really like this pattern, I have been considering making it into a dress.  Summers are fairly hot here and it helps a lot to have sleeveless items to wear and dresses are especially nice.

Off to work on the front of the pattern - adding a dart and then making it invisible.

Happy Stitching!