Friday, March 24, 2023

Phoebe Tank Muslin II Pattern Work...

 Here is the pattern work for the changes from the last Phoebe Tank Muslin:



In this picture, I have taken the traced front and added the bust point.  From there, I added a horizontal line going through the bust point from side-to-side and a vertical line going down from the bust point to the hem.


Since the intake for the dart in the muslin was 1 1/4-inches, I increased the length by 2 1/2-inches.  I used the horizontal line through the bust point for this.


On the last muslin, I decided that it was pulling ever so slightly through the bust.  So, I added a 1/4-inch to the width at the vertical line.  Also, I folded in the dart adding the dart shaping.

 
Here I cut the vertical line all the way to the bust point and closed the dart.  This caused the hem line to swing outward.  


Here I filled in the bottom portion of the open section at the hem.  Then, took the original fitted to slim down the area that increased width because of moving the dart from the side to the bottom.  Finally step hem was to use a curved ruler to draw in the new curved hem.  If this fits, I will retrace another fitted front for the pattern.

Here is the new muslin:


Well, honestly, I do not see a lot of difference between the front of version 2 and version 1.  I still see gaping at the armhole and plenty of wrinkles indicating that I need a FBA, which has already been done.


The side view definitely shows that the wrinkles around the bust need additional attention and a small amount of gapping at the armhole.


Back has had no changes.  Something I see now is that I may need a little more length just below the neckline.  The neckline does not appear to be laying flat.

 
Again, the reoccurring issue with the bust area and the gapping at the armhole.  The front is too long.  

I can not leave well enough alone.  This front version still needs work.  Here is me playing a little more:


I have pinned in a dart from the armscye which resulted in no gaping and I can still pinch in another at the bustline.  Something is not right here.  I am thinking that I need to start over with the original pattern.  UGH!  

I do not usually do more than one muslin.  I am definitely going to start over on the front.  The back fits mostly.  I think a little more room in the hip is needed.  How did I ever wear the other tops that I made?  I thought that they fitted fairly well but maybe not.  

So, my next steps are to retrace the originally pattern not the "fitted" pattern that I had.  Although, I will most likely go ahead and raise the armscye as I had to raise it significantly.  Well see what happens with the next muslin version.

Happy Stitching!


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