Inspiration...Sheath Dress

 Just a little more tweed because you can not have too much.

This is the Donegal Tweed Sleeveless Sheath Dress by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $1198.00.  Details: vented back, fitted, sleeveless, lined, zip back, waist darts, dry clean only.

I think we can do better with price and cleaning ability.  Now even though this is a super simple sheath dress, I had a hard time finding a simple dress like this.  The neckline is where the issue is at.  I suppose if you owned somethiing with this neckline you could tranfer it to your pattern.  I was able to locate two sheath dress patterns.

This is Butterick 6849.  A simple sheath dress with a waist line.  This would be a very versatile pattern to own.

This is McCall's 7533.  This sheath dress pattern gives you four sleeve variations and two hem variations.  It is not as fitted as the Butterick pattern but adding front and back darts will take care of that.  Remember to follow the rules of dart placement.

So, do you know the difference in a shift dress and a sheath dress?  The shift dress falls from the shoulder and typically is looser and straighter silhouette.  The sheath dress is fitted to the body curves.  I think the Butterick pattern is more of a sheath dress and the McCall's pattern is more of a shift dress.

Hope you are inspired to make something beautiful. 

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Tweed Jacket

 There is nothing like a beautiful jacket and this one makes that cut:

This is the Donegal Tweed Button Fitted Blazer by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $1898.00.  Details:  slim fit, flap pockets, structured shoulder, lined, long sleeve, button cuff vent, 2 button closure.

Yes, we could definitely make a jacket less than the price of this one even purchasing Donegal Tweed.  Even you paid $80 per yard, you could make several jackets.   Just sew with confidence.  How do you feel about cutting into fabric at that price point?

Now, patterns can be a real issue here.  Very few companies are putting out classic patterns.  Finding one with a two-button closure is even harder.  McCall's has recently came out with this pattern:

This is McCall's 8614.  It is a unisex pattern which for a female would most likely mean oversized.  You could probably play around and get it to fit closer.

This is probably a good time to look at older or vintage Vogue patterns.  I know this style of jacket was very common in the past.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Wardrobe Considerations...The Overall Plan

 Here is the sewing plan with pattern selections, fabric selections, and color:

• Liesl & Co Peckham Trouser in navy and gray.  Fabric will be cotton twill.
• Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt in teal. Fabric will be a cotton sateen.
• Liesl & Co Classic Shirt in pink and gray.  Fabric will be a cotton pique and cotton oxford cloth.
• Love Notions Classic Tee in navy.  Fabric will be a cotton/lycra jersey.
• Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse in teal.  Fabric will be a solid challis.
• Seamwork Flor Cardigan in gray.  Fabric will be a knit of some sort.
• Liesl & Co Classic Shirt dress length in pink.  Fabric unknown at this time.
• McCall's 7818 jacket in navy.  Fabric unknown at this time but would be nice if matched first item.

Whew!  That is a lot of sewing.  I do need to track back to the  "Starting From Scratch" series at the Vivienne Files.  Just to make sure that I am on track.   

Of this items, the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt, Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt are fitted.  I am in the process of fitting the Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse.  That leaves the Liesl & Co Peckham Trousers, Seamwork Flor, and McCall's 7818 jacket to be fitted.  That is a lot of fitting.  I really do want the trousers fitted though and will be starting with them first.

 Do you think this is too far in front of the season to start planning?  Have you tried this?  It would really be nice to get ahead of a season and not be sewing like mad to make something to wear right now.

Hope you are inspired to sew.

Happy Stitching!

Wardrobe Considersations...On Going Discussions 3

 Now we are moving on to Outwear.  This is where I did not like the suggestions made by the AI.  Then the discussion went to silhouettes.  We ended up with Seamwork Flor Cardigan and McCall's 7818 jacket.  I was causioned about the fitting the uni-sex jacket.  Here are the line drawings:

This is the Seamwork Flor Cardigan.  This will be made up in a gray knit.  This is an unfitted pattern so it will require a little work.

This is McCall's 7818.  It is an uni-sex jacket with a little bit of an oversized fit.  It will be made in a navy fabric.  This is an unfitted pattern so it will require a little work.

How do you think the AI is doing so far?

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Blazer and Wide Leg Pants

 This week's inspiration is a blazer and wide leg pants. 

This is the Tailored Seaming Linen Blazer - Cross Dyed from Talbots.  Price tag: $189.00. Details: long sleeve, hits at hip, button front closure, patch pockets, lined.

This is the Greenwich Wide Legged Linen Pants - Cross Dyed from Talbots. Price tag: $139.00. Details: flat front trouser, wide leg, fits high waist, full length, fly front with button closure, front on seam pockets, back welt pocks.

This is such a wonderful outfit.  If I was working in an office, I would have already purchased this outfit.  I will admit that the color of the cross-dyed linen is probably responsible.  How about patterns:

Jacket/Blazer:

This is the Jasika Blazer pdf pattern by Closet Core Patterns.  The only thing missing here is the patch pockets.  The collar shape is a little bit different as well.

This is Simplicity 8433.  This is a vintage design from the 90s. A fairly good match to the inspiration photo.  The collar is a little bit different.

Now for the pants:

This is Vogue 2037.  The pants appear to be very similar to the inspiration photo with the exception that they do not look high waisted.  That is easy to fix by added the appropriate length all the way around.  If you like the other two pieces in the pattern, then you have a bonus.

This is Simplicity 3073.  The pattern includes a jacket and pants.  With the exception of back welt pockets, the pants are fairly spot on for the inspiraton photo. 

Hope you are inspired to create something really nice.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Sleeveless Shift Dress

 This shift dress is perfect for hot weather.  Sew it now and be ready for the season early.  Here is the dress:

This is the Lafayette 148 New York Sleeveless Cotton-Blend Shift Dress.  Price tag: $698.00.   Details:  dress featuring bust darts, pick stitching, back gore darts; approximately 37-inches long; round neckline; sleeveless; shift silhouette; knee length; back zip; cotton/nylon/polyamide/elastane blend; unlined; machine wash cold, and line dry.

Here is a tutorial for pick stitching.  As for the back gore darts, I am not familiar with that term and neither is Mr Google.  Maybe they are simply referring to the back darts that simply shape the back of the garment.  If you find some better explanation, please let me know.  

Now, I will admit that I probably would not make a white dress but that is why I sew.  Sewing allows me to pick the color and shape that I want.  Now, how about the pattern.  I generally recommend this dress:

Although New Look 8500 is a great pattern, the shape is a little bit different than the inspiration photo.  I will keep looking.

Simplicity 1609 without the collar might be a good interpretation of the inspiration photo without the collar.  This might be an A-line dress.  It is not part of the description but it could be modified slightly.

McCall's 7533 View B might be a good contender as well.  This pattern gives you a little more bang for the buck with the hem variation and sleeve variations.

This is the Style Arc June dress pattern.  This is pretty close to the inspiration photo.  It does have a slight a-line shape.  

Well, it looks like I have given you lots of pattern options for this one.  This feels like it should be a very basic dress and easy to find but it was not. Hope you are inspired to sew a nice dress.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Linen Top and Skirt

 I really enjoy wearing linen tops and bottoms in the summer.  This inspiration outfit is beautiful:

This is the Lafayette 148 3D Carnation Raw Linen Sleeveless Top and Midi Skirt.  Price tag: Top - $695.00, Skirt - $895.00. Details: Top - sleeveless, crew neckline, relaxed fit, invisible back zipper, linen, dry clean.  Skirt - high waist, hem fails below knee, a-line silhouette, invisible back zipper, linen, dry clean.

This is a perfect silhouette for summer.  It is even dressy if you put this applique on.  

This is the Phoebe Tank from fabrics-store dot com.  It is a free pattern and might take time to fit but it is worth it.  I have made around seven of these tanks and they are worn all the time.

This is McCall's 8510.  View A of the pattern looks like it might work for the inspiration photo.  Although it is more like a 1/2 circle skirt so it may be too full.  

In reality, there are not any skirt patterns that I could find in the big four that matches this simple skirt not there were not a lot of nice skirt patterns.  

If you have a straight skirt pattern fitted, this tutorial shows how to draft an a-line skirt using an existing pattern.  This would be an ideal solution and help with the fitting portion of making a new item.  Here is a tutorial on how to draft an a-line skirt using your measurements.

There is also a chance that you can find a pattern on Etsy.  

Here is a tutorial on making 3D flowers.  Hope it is useful.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Planning Fall/Winter Wardrobe...

 I never really made much for spring and summer this year.  The sewjo was just missing.  However, I did a bunch of mending and that seemed to get things going.  Then, I decided to make a sleeveless blouse to push out the end of summer with the Itch to Stitch Dana Point Top (affiliate link).  This is a cute top which is a step above my normal Phoebe Tank Top which I love to pieces.  You can see my versions by doing a search on the blog.

So far, I have made the following decisions for garments:

1.  A skirt using New Look 6809 (OOP) View A in denim colored stretch suiting:

 

My inspiration is this post except I am not using real denim just a denim colored fabric.  I know the silhouette is different but that is okay.

2.  A checked skirt using either Butterick 5668 (OOP) View B or Butterick  6717 (OOP) View C.  

My inspiration is this post.  I think both of the patterns are pretty similar to the inspiration photo.  

3.  A navy/white striped button down using the Classic Shirt pattern by Liesl & Co.

My inspiration is this post.  I finally took the fabric out of the package and realized it is a little sheer.  I do not know if it will stand up to all the stitching required for a button down.  The weight was stated to be 130 gsm which should have been almost 4 oz per yard.  I washed the fabric and dried it in the dryer with hopes that it shrunk and tightened up the weave a little bit.

4.  A plaid button down using the Classic Shirt by Liesl & Co:

This is stash fabric.  I had intended to make the shirt in 2023 but it slipped. I have grey pants to go with this fabric.

Things that need more thought:

I need to think about some blouses to go with the skirts.  Most of the shirts/blouses have been similar to the Classic Shirt pattern above with a hidden placket.  I doubt that is the only style of blouse that I would want though.

The Pussy Bow Blouse pattern by Sew Over It would be addition.  Here is the line drawings:

I think one of these tops would be nice to go with one of the skirts or pants.  I will continue looking for blouses. Maybe it will be something more casual than this bow blouse.

 I would like to make a jacket and right now I am thinking about using this pattern:

This is McCall's 4598 View A. It is an OOP but it matches closely to this inspiration post.  I have not decided on fabric type yet.  I really need to sit down and go through the fabric stash.  I have a lot of fabric and really need to try to use as much as possible.

Happy Stitching!

 

Inspiration...Denim Skirt

 If you like wearing boots or not, this is the perfect skirt for winter:

This is the Winter Denim Flared A-Line Midi Skirt by Akris Punto.  Price tag: $695.00. Details: high waisted, hem falls below the knee, a-line silhouette, invisible back zipper, cotton/wool/nylon/polyamide, dry clean.

I think we can beat that price and find a fabric that is washable to work with.  Here is a pattern:

This is McCall's 6993.  The pattern includes two views.  Here is the line drawings:

View B is an almost idenitical version of the inspiration photo.  There are lots of patterns for this type of skirt.  If you look carefully on Google, you can find instructions for drafting this type of skirt.  

What about the fabric?  If I really wanted to duplicate the skirt closely, I would get a dark wash, light weight denim that is maybe 4 to 6 oz.  I think that is light enough to get that drape.  Etsy has a good selection. Cali Fabrics has a denim blue suiting that would be perfect for this type of skirt.  

Have you got those creative thoughts going?  The skirt doesn't have to be denim.  Hope you are inspired.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration....Linen Jacket

 The following jacket is pretty much straight from the 90s.  It is casual but could be worn to work depending on the atmosphere at your work place.  

This is the Eileen Fisher Open-Front Organic Linen Jacket. Price tag: $248.00.  Details:  approximately 31-inches from shoulder to hem, notched lapel, open front, long sleeves, front patch pockets, relaxed fit, organic linen, machine wash cold.  (not mentioned but it is also unlined)

I have found the perfect pattern for this look.  I know, I know.  That is very unusually but it happens once in a while:

This is McCall's 8433.  It is vintage reproduction and pretty much perfect.  Just leave off the button or not.  That is why we see right?  Because it is a 90s reproduction pattern, it will require shoulder pads to support the width of the shoulder.  

Happy Stitching!

New Patterns...

 I rarely notice the new pattern release from the big four but noticed a few interesting patterns this fall:

This is Simplicity 9855.  The top pattern does not interest me at all but the pant pattern does.  Here is the line drawing:

The pattern descriptions is "Slim fit ankle length pants with hook and bar closure have belt loops, darted back waist, front pockets and single back welt pocket.".  The pattern sizing starts at a 10 and goes through a 38W.  There is no additional information on the site regarding the pattern at this time.  I would love to see what type of fabric the pattern is designed for.

This is Simplicity 9854.  Here is the line drawing:

This appears to be a good basic coat.  One that you can actually wear in cold weather with clothing underneath.  Yes, that is kinda a diss of the coat styles of the last few years.  The sleeves always seem to be ridiculously narrow.  Here is the description from the website: "Relaxed fit coat features notched lapels, inverted pleat at the center back, button closure and patch pockets with flap."

McCall's 8432.  Ah, I remember wearing this type of pant in the 90s.  Stirrup pants were so nice.  I do not necessarily remember them being pleated but memory is not necessarily accurate.  If I were making this these view A would be without the stirrup and view B would be with the stirrup.  Here you go for those pleated pants.

Butterick 6933.  The jacket and the pants are spot on for what I have been seeing online.  Not so sure about the skirt but if you are looking for jacket and pant pattern this on looks like it would be good. Here is the website descriptions: "Semi-fitted, partially lined jacket has notch collar, shoulder pads, princess seams, welt pockets, and long two-piece sleeves with button trim. Bias, A-line skirt has elastic waist and narrow hem. Full length pants have side front pockets and side seam zipper." 

Vogue 1996.  You like sewing for the men in your life.  This pattern has pants covered.  There is pleated pants, flat front pants, and pockets to make cargo pants.

Vogue 1973.  Finally, a blouse pattern with a bow and two sleeve styles.  I know that a this type of shirt is kinda limiting but you can fit once and make twice.  This was another style that I saw a lot for fall.  Wish the patterns came out sooner.

I guess that is all that caught my attention.  I will say that if you like vintage patterns there are a lot of reproduction in the fall offerings.  

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Shirtdress

 It looks to me like spring items are starting to showing up.  This dress is a pre-order.  

This is the Floral-Embroidery Cotton Midi Shirtdress by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $1298.00.  Details:  Approximately 45 1/2-inches from shoulder to hem, spread collar, hidden button placket, short sleeves with rolled cuffs, belted waist, on-seam pockets, hem falls below the knee, a-line silhouette, unlined.  For reference, model is 5'10".  

I just love everything about this dress except the price.  I am pretty sure this dress has a dolman sleeve on it.  I looked around a little bit for a dolman sleeve shirt dress but did not find anything of interest.  I did find instruction for how to create a dolman sleeve - Tutorial.  There are many links on the blog for creating a hidden button placket.  Just do a search.  As for the pattern, this one might work:

The pattern has the button front and the full skirt.  You would still need to make the dolman sleeve, lengthen the skirt, and the hidden button placket.  Of course, it would need to be fitted.  I think a vintage pattern from the 80s or 90s would probably work better.  It would require work to locate one though.  

Remember it is always best to use something you have already fitted.  That way you have more money to spend on fabric and notions.  I thinking about the Classic Shirt pattern and wondering what it would take to change it.  

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Heather Blazer

Fashion seems to be trending to matching jackets/pants again.  Here is a wonderful jacket:

This is the Lafayette 148 New York Heathered Single Breasted Blazer.  Price tag: $1498.00.  Details:   24 1/2-inches from shoulder to hem,  notched lapel, single-breasted front, long sleeves, vertical waist darts, front flap pockets, rounded front hem, relaxed fit, unlined, wool/polyester/acrylic blend.  

That price seems kinda high for an unlined jacket.  You could probably get away with it being unlined as long as you had long sleeves under it.  Otherwise, I would be afraid that it might be itchy.  There really is not any way to know unless you can actually see it.  

Here is my first thought of a jacket pattern:

This is Silhouette Patterns #1900 4 Button Jacket.  I would respace the button to three and adjust the pockets.  

The following pattern is the one I would really be tempted to do:

This is McCall's 7818.  

Noticed that the jacket has matching trousers.  If this is the look that you want, be sure to purchase enough fabric to make them.  Hope you are inspired to sew something wonderful. 

Happy Stitching!