Rhapsody Round Two...

 I think this will definitely be the last spring/summer top for this season.  I purchased this fabric back in February specifically for the Rhapsody Blouse:

This is a rayon challis and was actually perfect for the Rhapsody blouse.  You can see my original muslin here, and the first wearable blouse here.

I can really see why people love this blouse.  With the exception of the binding, it is fast.  Here is the second wearable blouse:

Overall, I am pleased with this top.  I had added a little more space in the bodice while keeping the yoke the same.  I added 1/2-inch in the middle of the front bodice and just added more gathers.  The back bodice was placed 1/2-inch from the fold.  This gave me and added 2-inches all the way around.  Here is the sides and back:

  

The top may still be a bit long in the back.  I like the length in the front.  I still have a little bit of poofing at the back of the sleeve.  I thought I had taken care of the that but I do not know what is causing it.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I am planning on more Rhapsody but it will be a long sleeved version for fall/winter and I am planning to change the neckline just a little bit.

Happy Stitching!

New Summer Top...

 I was browsing through my stash of pdf patterns and found the Atelier Scammit Declic hiding.  This looked like a very simple pattern and I had the perfect fabric sitting in the remnants pile.  Here is the line drawing:

This is a simple blouse with shoulder pleats.  Here is the remnant:

I had previously made a bow tie blouse from this fabric and had about 1 1/4 yard leftover.  It felt good to be able to use a remnat of fabric.  The pattern is really long between the shoulder and the high bust so I removed 3 inches.  Yeah, I know that is a lot but it was at 15-inches before the change and 12-inches is still longer than I need.  

I did get stuck on cutting out the interfacing.  I suppose I should just order some stablizing tape so I do not get to take the time to it out.  The pattern required front/back neckline, shoulders, and armscyes to be stablized.  In the end, this was not needed.  I think I would rather just do a stay stitch.

I did not make an actual muslin of the this pattern.  I used the tape measure to determine any length changes and just went with it.  Here are the results:

I am hoping that this will become a new favorite top.  I am pleasantly surprised with how it turned out.  It will remain to be seen whether or not it will be too hot on hot summer days.

Happy Stitching!

Itch To Stitch Tuesday Sale...

 Itch to Stitch has resumed the Tuesday sale.  Here it is:

This is the Nittany Top pdf pattern.  This pattern is a perfect summer staple.  Available in sizes 00 - 40 with cup options. The pattern is on sale at $6.00USD  through 11:59 Mountain Time on Tuesday, July 1, 2025.  Want to see on others?  Check out this post.  

As always, the volume discounts apply when purchasing.  So, it is a good time to look around.

I am an  Itch to Stitch affiliate.  Any purchases made through my links will result in a small commission at no cost to you.  Thank you!

Happy Stitching

Inspiration...Kimono Blouse

 

This is the Carnation Striped Cap-Sleeve Kimono Blouse by Akris Punto.  Price tag: $695.00.  Details:  point collar, consealed button front, relaxed fit, back pleat, hip length, cotton.

I think the fabric is what makes this blouse.  I like wearing shades of pink.  

I have not really seen a kimono sleeve top with a shirt collar or the consealed button front.  I suppose you could copy the kimono sleeve onto a classic button down shirt and created your own consealed button front.  Hope you are inspired.

Happy Stitching!

Rhapsody Muslin...

 I am starting my spring/summer sewing with the Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse.  Here is the line drawings:

This pattern has lots of options. There are two length options and nine sleeve options.  The muslin will be the cap sleeve with the neckline ties.  The fabric that I am going to use for the muslin is this fabric that I purchased earlier in March. When that fabric was washed, it turned into a nice piece of fabric.  

Here is a little look at my modified pattern:

Lots of length changes.  I have been following Karina at Lifting Pins and Needles and following her tips on making wovens tops.  So far, it has been worth the effort.  (Yes, I noticed that a kitty had been chewing on one of the pattern pieces.)

Here is the muslin:

Well after all the work, I realized that I had selected the wrong size for the top portion of the bodice.  I will not say that the top is tight but it is definitely too narrow.  Funny thing is that with every pattern from Love Notions I have made the same mistake but went up a size because I did not believe I could wear that size.  Now, I know for sure that my initial instinct was correct.  The top is always very long and needs 2 to 3 inches removed.

With luck, I will be able to reuse this fabric for another muslin.

Happy Stitching!

Pussy Bow Blouses...

 Since the muslin of the Pussy Bow Blouse, I have made two versions of the blouse:

This is Version 1 with the keyhole opening with the higher neckline.  The changes that I did was to add 1/2" high round back alteration and backing off a little bit on the armscye depth alteration that I had done.  The blouse is not perfect but I will enjoy wearing it.

This is Version 2 with the v-neckline.  This version I narrowed the shoulders by 1/2-inch and moved the shoulder point forward.  Overall, I think that the fit is a little better.   It is still not perfect (does that exist?) but I will enjoy wearing it.

I think that I am done with the pattern for while.  Really how many bow blouses can you have?  I think two is plenty.  

Happy Stitching!

Itch to Stitch Birthday Sale...

 Itch to Stitch is having a Birthday Sale through 11:59 PM US February 1, 2025 with 20% off all patterns.  I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.  Any purchases made through product links will result in small commission at no cost to you.  

Here are some of my favorites right now:

This is the Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt pdf pattern.   I have made this skirt a couple of times - one in khaki and one in corduory.

This is the Itch to Stitch Soller Top & Dress pdf pattern.   I have made this a few times - muslin, top and dress.  I love this pattern.  It is super quick to make.

This is the Foz Top pdf pattern.  I have made this a couple of times.  It is a great little top - long sleeved muslin top and short sleeved top.

This is the Celeste Dress pdf pattern.  I have made this dress once and it is in constant rotation during warm weather.

This is the Lamma Hoodie & Sweatershirt pdf pattern.  I have made this pattern once and it is a favorite during cooler weather.

Following are patterns in my collection that I have not gotten to yet:

This is the Nittany Top pdf pattern.  The interesting neckline is the draw for me with this.  This blouse pattern is meant for light, drapey fabric.  

This is the Seychelles Top pdf pattern.  This top is meant for light to medium fabric.  

This is the Quebec Skirt pdf pattern.  This is an interesting pull-on denim skirt pattern. This is meant to be used with a 20 to 30% stretch fabric.  It would be great for all seasons.

This is just a few of my favorite collected Itch to Stitch patterns.  Hope you find something that inspires you.

Happy Stitching!

Pussy Bow Blouse Muslin....

 So, I am finally getting around to working on The Pussy Bow Blouse by Sew Over It.  Here is the line drawing:

After looking over the instructions, I picked the size 18 in the larger size range.  I am hoping that it will fit right out of the package as the larger size range is for a "D" cup and that is more me than the "B" cup in the regular range. After printing the pattern, I got a little excited as the 4"x4" square was not 4".  However, it did match the cm.  So, be aware of this.  Here is the muslin fabric that I chose:

This is a Walmart find and actually feel like a nicer fabric than I thought it was going to be.  When washed this fabric turned out to be one that puckers in certain areas.  I am hoping this does not affect the muslin too much.  I ended up ditching this fabric.  Although it was a very interesting fabric, it was not suitable for actually sewing.  When I cut it out, the front had moved around so much that parts of it was much smaller than the pattern.  

Since I don't have muslin fabric immediately available, I decided to spend some up close time with the pattern measuring all the lengths.  I am really glad that I did as the pattern would have been huge on me.  Here is my altered pattern:

I am still trying to figure out the changes for the sleeve cap without completely flattening the sleeve cap.  I ended up measuring the original armscye and the original sleeve.  Then, I measured the altered armscye and made changes so that the original sleeve ease was there.  Here is a look at the altered sleeve:

Thankfully, Wal-Mart precuts yielded a fabric that might be approrpriate for a muslin.  Here is the new fabric:

 It is thin and drapey and kinda interesting but not something I would ever wear (chiffon like).  The majority of the pre-cuts were knits and not really appropriate for this project.

Here is the muslin:

This is not too bad for a quick muslin.  I see one thing that I have not seen before.  It is a diagonal line from shoulder at the neckline to the bottom of the armscye.  I will need to do a little bit of research.  The darts are in a good spot.  

The back view is not too bad either.  I may add a little bit of additional room in the hip area.

I am not sure that this side view says anything about the garment. 

Overall, I am surprised at how well the adjustments that I made worked.  I was a little concerned about the armscye depth but it mostly looks good unless that funky diagonal line on the left shoulder is result of needing more depth.  Once I figure out that one item, I will be off to make both versions of this blouse.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Cap Sleeve Top

 Sometimes you find things that make you say "Wow".  That is how I feel about this top.

This is the Striped Cap-Sleeve Top by Carolina Herrera. Price tag: $1590.00.  Details:  round neckline, button front, cap sleeves, relaxed fit, viscose/elastine, dry clean.

I love, love, love the look of this top and sincerely hope I can locate a pattern that I can duplicate it.  This is such a beautiful play with stripes.  You really need to check the Neiman Marcus site so you can see the whole outfit because it is matchy, matchy.

I started looking for a kinda similar pattern because perfect matches are hard to find. I did find a pattern that might work.  Here is the line drawing:

This is the bonus view of the Sage Top from Seamwork.  Yes, that means you have to be a member at Seamwork to have access to this view.  What the pattern has - shoulder princess seam, button front.  What the pattern doesn't have - cap sleeves, higher neckline, center back seam.

I will continue to look around for other alteratives.  As much as I like the Seamwork community, the top patterns are a real struggle for me to fit as I am much shorter in the upper chest.  Sometimes, the struggle of fitting is not worth the amount of time that it takes to accomplish for one garment.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Pleated Blouse

 Sometimes, blouses can just be beautiful and I think this is just that:

This is the Pleated Point Collar Silk Blouse from LilySilk.  Price tag: $ 179.00.  Details:  silk, straight cut with regular fit, concealed mother of pearl button placket, pleat detailing, back yoke, single button cuff.

I had a pattern similar to this in the 80s from McCall's, I think.  I loved the blouse but the pleats were not right on the pattern.  So, it was a bit fuzzy. I poked around a little bit in google but could not find a similar pattern.  Not close at all.  

I looked around for a tutorial and found this one for tucks to a blouse.  The concept would be the same with the tutorial but you would be added a deeper tuck.  Poking around in heirloom sewing would probably produce some instructions.  Here is an article on How to manipulate fabric with tucks.  This article has a lot of information.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Tie-Neck Blouse

 I love the look of a tie neck blouse.  This is very elegant looking and probably more than my casual life needs but a girl can dress, right?

This is the Tie-Neck Silk Blouse by Lafayette 148 New York. Price tag: $798.00.  Details:  Approximately 25-inches from shoulder to hem, V neckline, long sleeves, relaxed fit, pullover style, silk, dry clean only. 

Oh, how I love the idea of this blouse.  The closest I found to this is this blouse:

This is the Pussy Bow Blouse pdf pattern by Sew Over It.  With the exception of the sleeve, it is a very good match to the inspiration photo.

Happy Stitching!

Round Two...Dana Point Top Muslin 2

 After looking over the photos from the first muslin of the Dana Point Top, I decided to try another muslin.  Here are the changes that I made to the pattern:

1.  Return the 3/4-inch to area above the bust both front/back

2.  Removed the 1/4-inch that had been added at the waist front/back.

3.  This is the biggy - added 1 1/2-inches to the length in the front by slicing through the bust point. This makes the dart bigger.

4.  Added 1/2-inch to the side seam below the dart. The alternative could be reducing the size of the pleats on the front.

Next, I checked the stash for a lightweight fabric that would have enough drape and I was willing to use as a muslin.  I have lots of fabric and not all of it is located at my house but I did not find anything  that I was willing to use in such a manner.  Walmart did have a fabric that should work just fine.  

The Walmart fabric was just as icky as the first muslin but it pressed better. Here are the pictures of the second muslin:

Well, this muslin looks a little bit better but I can see that the pulling up in the front and still swinging forward a little bit.  I need more length added to the front.  

This is a really good example of the differences that bras make when taking measurements.  When I have a better fitting bra on, the darts are in the correct spot.  Just saying, wear the same bra for any fittings and wearing. 

I have officially given up on this pattern.  It was a fun experiment to step a little outside my comfort zone with a different sleeveless top pattern than my Phoebe Tank.  

Review of the pattern:

The pattern is well drafted.  The instructions are good.  Since I never made a completed top, it is hard for me to say much about the lining portion of the pattern.  I do think that the lining would not show on this pattern unless you did not follow the instructions.  

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Silk Blouse

 Well we have seen jackets and skirts for fall, here is a blouse:

This is the Scottie Graphic-Print Silk Twill Blouse by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $798.00.  Details:  this features a hand painted silk, approximately 27" from shoulder to hem, spread collar, concealed button front, long sleeves, button cuffs, box pleat back yoke, relaxed fit, silk, dry clean.  Model is approximately 5'10".

I am going to recommend my favorite shirt pattern as I have it already fitted:

This is the Liesl & Co Class Shirt pattern.  I have found it to be a well drafted pattern.  Changes would be to add the hidden shirt placket.  I think that is it.

If you really want the silk twill, it can be had on many websites starting around $30 per yard.  Personally, I would go for a easier care version in a polyester blend of some sort.  Although silk care be washed safely at home if you are careful.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Muslin Dana Point Top...

 I recently purchased the Itch to Stitch Dana Point Top pdf.  It was a summer special. I decided to play with fit up front before cutting any fabric.  When we purchase patterns, we usually purchase by the horizontal measurements but the vertical measurements are just as important.  So, I decided to follow along with the Lifting Pins and Needles "Let's Sew Our Best Fitting Top" series.  To follow along with the series, work from the bottom upward. 

Here is a line drawing of the Itch to Stitch Dana Point Top pdf:

I decided to print a size 12 and 16.  I used the 12 in the top portion and the 16 from the armscye to bottom.  Here are the changes that I made based on the measurements that I took:

1.  Took 1-inch out of the front armscye.

2.   Took 3/4-inch from the area just above the bust dart front and back.

3.  Add 1/4-inch at the waist front and back.

All of these changes make the assumption that I took all of my vertical measurements correctly.  I did remeasure with each change that I made as I made the changes starting from the shoulder. I did pick and incredibly terrible polyester fabric from my stash to make this muslin.  Here is the first muslin:

When I made this I purposefully put the details on the outside and hemmed the neck and armscye.  The neckline is really puffy, the dart is too long, and the whole dart seems to be too high.  Then, I decided that the top could really benefit from me turning it to the inside out so that the pleats and dart would be inside.  Unfortunately that means that all of my level markings are no longer visible.  Here is the top turned:

The top looks a little better with the pleats to the inside.  However, you can really see that the top is swinging forward and out.  No doubt in my mind that I need to add more length but it looks like a lot of length and I'm not sure I can fix it.  It feels like adding the length will mess with the pleat placement on the belly. Maybe I'm wrong was the waist line is pointed upward.  

Maybe I will look around and see if I can find a draping, lightweight fabric and do another muslin.  A drapier fabric will allow the pleats to hang better.  What are you thoughts?

Happy Stitching!