Muslin Dana Point Top...

 I recently purchased the Itch to Stitch Dana Point Top pdf.  It was a summer special. I decided to play with fit up front before cutting any fabric.  When we purchase patterns, we usually purchase by the horizontal measurements but the vertical measurements are just as important.  So, I decided to follow along with the Lifting Pins and Needles "Let's Sew Our Best Fitting Top" series.  To follow along with the series, work from the bottom upward. 

Here is a line drawing of the Itch to Stitch Dana Point Top pdf:

I decided to print a size 12 and 16.  I used the 12 in the top portion and the 16 from the armscye to bottom.  Here are the changes that I made based on the measurements that I took:

1.  Took 1-inch out of the front armscye.

2.   Took 3/4-inch from the area just above the bust dart front and back.

3.  Add 1/4-inch at the waist front and back.

All of these changes make the assumption that I took all of my vertical measurements correctly.  I did remeasure with each change that I made as I made the changes starting from the shoulder. I did pick and incredibly terrible polyester fabric from my stash to make this muslin.  Here is the first muslin:

When I made this I purposefully put the details on the outside and hemmed the neck and armscye.  The neckline is really puffy, the dart is too long, and the whole dart seems to be too high.  Then, I decided that the top could really benefit from me turning it to the inside out so that the pleats and dart would be inside.  Unfortunately that means that all of my level markings are no longer visible.  Here is the top turned:

The top looks a little better with the pleats to the inside.  However, you can really see that the top is swinging forward and out.  No doubt in my mind that I need to add more length but it looks like a lot of length and I'm not sure I can fix it.  It feels like adding the length will mess with the pleat placement on the belly. Maybe I'm wrong was the waist line is pointed upward.  

Maybe I will look around and see if I can find a draping, lightweight fabric and do another muslin.  A drapier fabric will allow the pleats to hang better.  What are you thoughts?

Happy Stitching!