Willow Tank Round 2...

 I have continued working on the Willow Tank muslin.  In the last post, I was going to increase the armhole depth by 1/2-inch.  I did this but it still wasn't enough.  Then, I made the change equal to 3/4-inch.  I think that is perfect.  This put the bust dart when it should have been, I think.  I draped the bust dart and pinned in another inch.  Here is the results of those changes:

In this picture, the length from the shoulder to the bust is better.

In the picture you can see the bust dart positioning.  I think the location is good but needs to be a bit shorter.  I can still a little bit of rippling along the back armscye.  I think that means I need a little bit more length and I will do a small increase at center back by 1/4-inch.  

This is so you can see the difference in the hang of the top from left to right.  The left side has the larger dart pinned in.

The back view with the armhole depth enlarged from first go around.  It is the same 3/4-inch. I do not see any additional pulling under the arms.  I do see some strange wrinkles that I am not familiar with.  They look like backward parenthesis about where the bottom of the shoulder blades would be or bottom of the armscye.  

A little more alterations and I enlisted the help of the photographer:

I have hand stitched larger darts.

The front is hanging better with the larger, shorter dart.

The back is hanging much better.  The weird backward parentheses is mostly gone.  A 1/4" high round back alteration was done.  When I restitched the side seams, I only stitched to the waist leaving the remainder open to see how the wrinkles looked.  I think the answer is that the width of the pattern doesn't match me yet.  It could be that the waist is hanging lower than should which would be the width of the hip in the wrong.  Regardless, I need a little more space for the backside.  Here is the finally version of the pattern:

Folks, I am going to call this pattern ready to sew the spring/summer wardrobe in April.  The changes need to be transferred to the pattern.   I might have to redo this if I happen to lose more weight but if I do not then I can whip a couple of tops and a dress with this pattern fairly quickly.

One item checked off my list.

Happy Stitching!