Thursday, February 2, 2023

Pleats, Pleats, Pleats...

 I am starting to see pleating returning to fashion.  Pleated pants have been gone for a while and I am started to see pleated pant patterns again.  I found this article at Sew Daily that might be helpful - here.  One thing to remember with pleats in the hip measurement must be the fullest part or the pleat will gap and it is not a good look.  I found this illustration that may be helpful:


Pleated pants almost always have pockets.  Here are some tutorials for various pockets:

slant pocket drafting 

welt pocket instructions

Silhouette Patterns has a welt pocket tutorial as well.  Click on Welt Strip Pockets. You might find other information on this page interesting as well.

Front Fly Zipper

Video of Front Fly Zipper

Front Fly Zipper with Shield


Crotch point - this is really a personal preference.  I have always followed the thought that the looser the pant the lower the crotch point hang.  Jeans and leggings are as close as you can get the crotch.  Trousers crotch point should be lower than a jean or leggings crotch point,  I am guessing but it is probably about 1/2-inch drop.  

Here is an article on how dress pants should fit.  It is for men but you will get an understanding - here.

Here is an article discussing pant fit that shows measurements - here.

Here is an article on pant fitting adjustments - here.

I also have a series on pant fitting from 1963 - here.


Hope this is enough information to get you started on your pant fitting journey.

Happy Stitching!

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