Foz Top, Round Two...

 Here is the second Foz Top.  My first Foz Top which was suppose to be a wearable muslin did not wash well.  I found out that the pins I was using was not a good match to the fabric and resulted in holes all around the neckline.  So sad but the buttons were reused.  Here is the finished top:

This top fits differently than the previous version - here.   The neckline is not too low in this version.  It also seems a little snugger.

Here is the Dritz ball point needles that I purchased:

I think that I purchased these at Amazon.  There is not anywhere locally that I can purchase something that is this specialized.  Now, let's talk a little bit about my Bernette B77.  Here are the setting from the machine for the seams and the hem:

1.  Select light weight knits (#5) on the Creative Consultant.  Then, selected straight stitch (#1) on project type.  Click the green check mark.

2.  Change the stitch length to 4.0.

This results in the stretch stitch #11 being selected.  There are also a list of recommendations that you can use or not use.  This is the foot that was used:

This is the zigzag foot for the dual foot.  Notice the little button on the side of the foot.  It is an interesting little detail that I have not seen on a machine accessory before.  It is used to level the foot when you have areas that are unlevel.  As far as I can tell, this is close to using a hump jumper.  I did have the dual feed engaged through out this project.  Here is a look at the hem:

For the buttons, I returned to the Creative Consultant and repeated Step 1 above.  At Step 2, I selected buttonhole (#4).  Again, you will get a list of recommendations.  This resulted in the machine selecting buttonhole #53, a stretch buttonhole, for the project.  Here is a drawing of this buttonhole:

I had never used this type of buttonhole before but decided to go it.  Here are the results:

Also, I set up a stitching mark so that I would be able to get a reasonably straight seam.  The markings for inches is at the back of the plate and very hard to see when sewing.  Here is my set up:

Overall, I am very happy with this project.  I think there will be another long sleeved version of this top.  There is not anything more enjoyable than a quit project with great results.  Who knows, maybe I will address the fitting a little bit or maybe not.  

Happy Sewing!

Classic Buttondown Shirt...

 It seems that I did not post the results of the Classic Shirt muslin before moving on to the first version.  I think the changes were fairly small.  I increased the bust dart and shaped it.  That alteration added length to the front.  Reduced the length of the shirt body and sleeves by 1 1/2 inches.  I had a beautiful shirting that has been hanging out in the stash for a while.  So, I pulled it out to use.  Here are the results:

I used my Bernette B77 to make this shirt.  This is not the first project that I have made using this machine but it the most complicated one to date.  The feet on this machine do not have good markings on them.  It is easy enough to do topstitching on an outside edge but it is not so easy to get a good topstitch on the inside.  I ended up using this foot:

This is the B77 embroidery foot.  The blue line points at what I used to do edge stitching.  It made a stitch about 1/16-inch from the edge.  Perfect.  The red points points at another spot and it is 1/4-inch from the edge.  Here is a close up of the stitching:

Here is a picture of the inside topstitching:

The B77 makes a beautiful buttonhole.  This is an example of buttonhole #51which is a standard buttonhole:

I used the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  This pattern is very well drafted.  The instructions are well written.  I can see many of these shirts in the future.

Happy Stitching!

(Affiliate link included.  I receive a small commission should you purchase.)

Ottobre Design Magazines...

 Ottobre  Design had a black friday sale and of course, I had to purchase a couple of the woman's magazines.  Here is what I purchased:

Both issues are the fall/winter issues.  Guess I was not thinking of warmer weather when I was checking out the various woman issues.

These should keep me busy dreaming for a bit.  Did you purchase anything at the black friday sale?

Something New...

 I decide to try a fabric swatch service to reduce my need for additional fabric in the stash.  Will it work?  I do not know but I can hope.  In the 90s, I belonged to a couple of fabric swatch services and really enjoyed looking at the various fabrics.  I do not remember going overboard purchasing fabric.  Maybe I was more realistic about how much I would actually sew.  I seem to plan and purchase way more than I can actually produce.

So I looked at Vogue Fabric swatch service and Julie's Picks at Fabric Mart Fabrics.  The cost is basically the same between the two services.  One is monthly and the other is bi-monthly.  I decided to do the monthly Julie's Picks.  The first one just arrived:

It was so exciting to see this.  I have a few weeks for look and think.  There are some nice fabrics in this batch.  We will know next month if getting a swatch service helps any at all with purchases. I just checked an the membership is still open for 2022.  Hop on over and check it out.

Happy Sewing!

French Seams...

 Do you like french seams?  I used them all the time before I purchased my first serger in early 90s. Now, mostly for pillow cases.  French seams make the inside of a garment very neat.  

This type of seam does take a little more planning and a little more work.  They are easiest to make with a 5/8-inch seam but can be made with smaller seam width with care.  Here are a few resources for french seams:

1. Tutorial with both photo and video of how to make a french seam - here.

2. Tutorial on how to end a french seam above a vent - here.

Here is a tutorial for a pillowcase for some extra practice - here. This looks like a good tutorial but I prefer to add a separate cuff instead of hems.  Do what you like doing best.  

Happy Stitching!

More Fabric...

I do not need more fabric but here I am adding to the stash.  Here is the latest acquisitions:

This is a floral 100% rayon challis.  I ordered 3 1/2 yards for a skirt.  My intentions is to make the McCall's 8248 from this post.  This fabric is machine wash.

This is 100% cotton sateen.  I ordered 2 1/2 yards for a skirt.  Mostly like will be the same skirt pattern as above.  The fabric is machine washable.  

If you are wondering about wanting to make both patterns in the same patterns, it is a cute pattern and I really like it.  It makes sense to me to make more than one because of the time spent fitting.  This skirt may not require a lot of fitting but I know there will be length issues.  May as well make two and maximize the time spent fitting.

Happy Stitching!

New Sewing Patterns...

 I was really conflicted about which patterns to purchase with the latest Itch to Stitch sale which is now over.  I really wanted all of the patterns that I had picked out with Friday's post but I have been trying not to purchase so many patterns.  Here is what I ended up with:

This is the Lamma Hoodie & Sweatshirt pdf pattern.  I am fairly certain that I have some french terry in gray in stash and this pattern would be perfect for it.  The only thing I am not certain about is the quantity of the french terry.  I suppose I should have measured before purchasing the fabric.  

This is the Uvita Top Add-on pdf pattern. I have the Uvita top pattern and decided it would be fun to add other details to it.  

So that was my purchases from the Itch to Stitch sale. I think I did pretty good limiting myself to just two patterns.  I admit that I tend to purchase both fabric and patterns when my sewing time is limited.  I think it is that I just have to sew or think about sewing.  Always planning the next project.

Happy Stitching!

Welt Strip Pockets...

 Have you tried making welt pockets or do they scared you just a little bit?  Here are a couple of tutorials to play with:

1.  Swoon Sewing patterns - double welt pocket picture tutorial

2. Silhouette Patterns - welt strip pockets picture tutorial

Once you learn the basics of making this type of pocket, you can insert a zipper instead of the welts.  Think of all the types of pockets that would benefit from a zippered pocket.  I have not at this pocket attempted to make a zippered welt pocket.  Have you?

Happy Stitching!

(Affiliate links included.  I would make a small commission should you purchase anything.  Thank you!)

Itch To Stitch Sale Additional Considerations...

 As I check the Itch to Stitch site for additional patterns, I thought I would share a few that I am considering getting:

This is the Lamma Hoodie & Sweatshirt pdf pattern.  This top has wonderful line detailing making it great for color blocking.  I think I have some fabric in the stash for this one too.

 

This is the Atenas Jacket pdf pattern.  This is a classic blue jean jacket with pockets.  It comes in sizes 00-20 with bust cup options.  

This is the Uvita Top Add-on pdf pattern.  This is an add on to the Uvita top pdf pattern which is a free pattern.  It comes sizes 00-20.  

This is the La Paz jacket pdf pattern.  It comes is sizes 00-20 with bust cup options.  

Looks like I have a lot to think about.  I will let you know what I decide next week.  Hope you are inspired to sew.

Happy Stitching!

(All links are affiliate links.  I will receive a small commission should you decide to purchase.)

Itch To Stitch Sale...

 Itch to Stitch is having a Thanksgiving Sale.  Code is Thanks2021 and valid through November 29, 2021.  Here are some of my favorites:

This is the Foz Top pfd pattern.  It comes in sizes 00-40.  This pattern is quick and easy.  Just be sure to measure the important areas to determine the correct fit for you.  You can see my muslin here.

This is the Celeste Dress pdf pattern.  It comes in sizes 00-40 with cup size options.  This dress will be a winner for summer.  I'm working on this one for next summer.

This is the Recoleta Dress pdf pattern.  It comes with sizing 00-40 with cup size options. I purchased this dress for the short sleeve option but the long sleeve option makes it a year round pattern.  Again, this will make a wonderful, cool dress for hot summers.

This is the Nittany Top pdf pattern.  It comes in sizes 00-40 with cup options.  This top has an interesting neckline which can be pick-a-boo or not.  I purchased it for the beautiful neckline.  I probably won't be doing the pick-a-boo option but I could change my mind.

This is the Seychelles Top pattern.  It comes in sizes 00-40 with cup sizing options.  Another woven top with long sleeves and short sleeves.  I'm still working on fitting this one.  Thank goodness for multiple size options when printing.

I haven't tried any of the pant options yet but there are great options:

This is the Upland Trouser pdf pattern.  It comes in sizes 00-40.  This pant has a high waist, fitted through waist and hip, and relaxed below the hip.  The design is meant for a non-stretch woven fabric.  I love the look of these pants.  

There are many patterns to choose from.  Go check out the great patterns at Itch to Stitch.

I am an affiliate of Itch to Stitch.  If you choose to purchase something through one of my links, I will receive a small commission. Thank you!

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Fabric and More Fabric...

 I do not need anymore fabric but here I am purchasing it.  I purchased three pieces for next summer.  Here they are:

This is a tencil/cotton denim.  I purchased 3 yards of this with the intent on it becoming a Merchant and Mills Factory Dress.   Easy care with machine wash cold and tumble dry.  

This is a linen/cotton in charcoal.  I purchased 4 yards with the intent of this becoming a Merchant and Mills  Camber dress.  Easy care with machine wash cold and tumble dry.

This is a linen/cotton in indigo.  I purchased 3 yards with the intent that this would become a pair of Love Notions Allegro pants.  Easy care with machine wash cold and tumble dry.

I need to check the stash for fabric to go with the pant fabric for some tops.  There should be something in there as my stash has grown by a huge amount this year.  Nothing like planning next years wardrobe.

Happy Stitching!

Machine Update...

 Way back in June, I purchased a Bernette B77.  You can read about it here.  In July, I gave a little update on how things were going with the new machine.  You can find that here.  Now it is November.  My machine is not at my parents house.  It is still sitting at my house and gets used almost every day.  I have not worked through any of the manuals or work books or finished my stitch bible.  What can I say except "I just want to sew."  

I have been sewing simple things.  A new machine takes getting use to.  This machine is taking a while to get use to. There are things that I really like about the machine and there are things that I really do not like about the machine.  

Things that I like:

1.  The needle threader.  It is fabulous and works every time.  

2.  The buttonhole maker.  I have made dozens of buttonholes and have had only one failure.  It was a user issue.  I think it was the bobbin ran out of thread.

3.  Love the knee lift. It is something that you could find on older mechanical machines or very high end machines.  Nice that it is on this machine.

Things that I do not like:

1.  The bobbin winder.  It is super fiddly.  I finally figured out that you had to thread the bobbin and hold on to the thread tail the entire time that the bobbin was winding or you would get a loose bobbin.  I can get a good bobbin now just about every time I wind a bobbin now.

2.  The ankle for the presser feet.  Again, putting a different presser feet on is fiddly.  Perhaps this is a user issue and I really need to read the manual a little closer.  

3.  The buttonhole maker.  Do not get me wrong.  This machine makes beautiful buttonholes but there is no way to make a manual buttonhole.  You have to have a button.  Sometimes, you need to be able to make a buttonhole that is not used by a button.  Obviously, the answer is to have different size buttons.  Sometimes, that sends you shopping.

4.  Lack of markings on the presser feet.  This really only got noticed when I decided to do some topstitching.  I did finally figure out that I could use two feet to workout what I wanted to do but it was a real struggle and slowed me down.

Now I admit that have not done anything elaborate yet with the machine.  I have made buttonholes but I have not sewn any zippers.  Isn't the straight stitch and zigzag what is used 90 or 95 percent of the time?  This will be remedied.  I have a vest project for my husband that has multiple zippers.  I will update as the adventure continues.

Happy Stitching!

Allegro Pant...

 I finally made my way back to the Love Notions Allegro Pant pattern.  You can find previous posts on this pattern here.  This is really a versatile pattern.  This time around I used a french terry fabric so technically this is a muslin but once again wearable.

I know it is hard to see how the fit is in black.  In generally, the fit is baggy.  So, I will be making a note to take larger seams with knits.  I did opt to not put in the drawstring this time.  You know I really need the drawstring with the baggy fit.  These pants are very comfortable.

I think I will make an additional small change to the pattern at the back hip.  It will just be deepening the dart a hair and then adding the length back at the top.  It is a minor change but I think it will remove that tiny bit of wrinkling just below the tush.

Overall, I am very happy with the Allegro Bottoms pattern.  It was well worth the money that I spent on it  and I am going to say that it is worth spending the full price on it.  

Happy Stitching!

Foz Muslin...

 I finally getting to the Foz pattern that I purchased in September. Post here.  I found a thin knit that was perfect for the muslin at Wal-mart and a burn test revealed that is was rayon.  Then, I had to decide on sizes.  I knew that I would need the full front for the pattern so after a bit of dithering I decide to go a straight 16 with a 20 armscye and sleeve.  Just so you know the recommended size was a 12 or 14.  I was using the finished measurements to determine what I wanted.  Let's see how I did:

The front is not too bad.  Yeah, there is a little bit of wrinkling in the bust area.  I think that is to be expected.  The V is a little bit lower than I would normally wear.  

I can see wrinkling on the right side.  The sleeve appears to fit well.  The shoulder could probably be a little bit narrower.  Maybe need a tad more width at the hip in the back.

Overall, I would say that this is not too bad. This is completely wearable.  Certainly not perfect but it is as good or better than anything I could possibly purchase.  I did have to purchase buttons for this and I think that snaps would be a perfect as a closure.  My snap collection did not contain black.  

The fabric was a bear to cut out but it stitched reasonably well.  My machine only balked at attempting topstitching around the neckline.  So, it did not get that finished bit.  

The Itch To Stitch Foz pattern is a great little pattern.  Although I am a very slow sewist, this pattern is reasonable fast.  I suspect that if you had a dedicated 3 or 4 hours and a serger, this could be whipped out in the time period or less. 

I do intend to make another version of this.  I just need to check the stash to see what is available.  I know there are some interesting knits sitting in the stash just waiting to be used.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful for yourself.

Happy Stitching!

(Post contains affiliate links.  If you purchase using my link, I would receive a small commission at no cost to you.)

New Pattern Release....

 Itch to Stitch has a new pattern that is right on target for fall trend:

This is the Varzim Overalls Digital Sewing Pattern.  This pattern is meant for a low stretch sweatshirt type fabric but a stretch woven would also work.  Be sure to check out the blog post so that you can see multiple versions made up in a variety of here.  This pattern is on sale through November 1, 2021.   

What do you think of a knit or stretch woven overalls?  

Happy Stitching!

(All links in this post are affiliate links.  Should you purchase anything from these links, I would receive a small commission at no cost to you.)

Vogue Winter Patterns...

 The Vogue Pattern winter collection was released today.  I did see a couple of patterns that I thought were interesting:

Vogue 1838 - Misses Capes.  I like the idea of a cape like view B.

Vogue 1844 - Misses Dress.  I love the styling on the dress.  I am not sure that lengthening this to the appropriate length for me would be the correct thing to do.  It might mess with the proportions of the dress.

Yep, that is it.  Overall, I was under whelmed and a bit confused.  It does not seem like a cohesive collection.  Almost like the direct is unknown.  Will people pay the $$$ for men's sweat pants or a robe?  I am not saying that there were not interesting aspects of the collection but it seemed to be lacking in wearability.  Maybe I am wrong. Maybe I am just craving the beautiful designs of yesteryear.

What are your thoughts of the collections?

Happy Stitching!

Flannel PJs...

 I selected the next Kwik Sew pattern to work on and pulled out two different flannels from the stash.  That is good stash reduction.  Here is the fabric:

This is a Snuggle Flannel from JoAnn's.  It is a cute fabric but narrow.  

The blue flannel has a fun message on it.  It has been in the stash forever.  The yardage is narrow so I will probably purchase a plain flannel to make the sleeves. 

Here is the pattern that I intend to use:

This is Kwik Sew 3353.  It is just a basic pajama pattern.  Perfect for lounging around. 

Here is the new pajamas:

I love the fit of both pair of jammies.  This pattern really is a good basic and fast when you use your serger.  It would be really easy to modify the pattern if you were interested in piping the edges.  There is nothing not to like with this pattern.

Happy Stitching!

Poncho Top...

I love the idea of the poncho tops.  It is an easy on/off item. When I saw this pattern from McCall's, I knew it would be the perfect item for my Mom who has congestive heart failure.  Here is the original post from my fall roundup.  Here is the pattern:

Now this item takes a lot of fabric.  The first version was view A in a recommended size of XL and a little short even for my 4'11" Mom.  The fabric used is from Joann Fabrics.  I was very disappointed in this fleece as it was described as a cabled fleece but it was really a printed fleece. It is still a color my Mom is very happy with.  Here is the first version on me:

As you can see this is really big.  It is actually the recommended size for me.  Just for reference, I'm 5'5".  If another version is made, I think we will be moving down a couple of sizes to a M.

I see versions of this in knitted cables all the time.  Everyone seems to love them.  I think I would like one of these for myself but the right fabric needs to be located.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Button Down Dress

 We are solidly in fall but this dress silhouette is fabulous.  I admit that I like a causal style and will need to reserve this idea for later.  

This is the Akris Button-Down Belted Silk Crepe Midi Dress.  Price tag: $2990. Details:  silk crepe, spread collar, button front, short sleeves, side slip pockets, adjustable belt, a-line silhouette, midi length, and side slits.  

This is Butterick 6702.  View C is very similar to the inspiration photo. It doesn't have the side slits like the inspiration but it looks like there is enough volume that it is not needed.  The hidden placket is also missing but you can follow these instructions to create that detail.  You would also need to add side pockets and shorten the sleeves.

Another alternative is to use your favorite fitted shirt pattern lengthen it to the correct length and adding the details that you want.  That way your money will go toward the fabric instead of the pattern.  Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Fabric and More Fabric...

 The fabric still keeps moving into sewing area.  As far this month, more is going out than coming in.  I purchased the following fabric this week:

This can be found at either fabric dot com or amazon.  I purchased 3 yards with the idea that I might make a knit dress.  It is a little light weight for that but the fabric could change when washed.  Washing instructions are wash cold/tumble dry low.

No pictures of the other fabrics.  They were walmart precut finds that I generally use for muslins. Both pieces are black.  One is a french terry and the other is a ribbed knit.  The precuts are 2 yard cuts each. 

Happy Stitching! 

Balance Lines and Pants...

 I spent more time playing with Simplicity pant pattern from this post.  Here is my pattern comparison:

This particular pattern already has the crotch line marked on the pattern.  This is what I used.  The front pattern piece is on the top.  If you look closely, you can see the crotch lines marked on both patterns.  You can also see that they are no where near each other.  When I measured the distance, it was 1 1/2-inches.  That seems like a lot.

Following the directions, I rotated the front pattern piece crotch line to match up with the back crotch line.  Doing that caused this to occur:

Rotating the front crotch line to meet the back crotch line resulted in the difference being moved to the leg.  If I understood, you are suppose to redraw both sets of legs by 50% of that difference.  Hmmm.  At this point, my thoughts are I am not sure about this.  Do I really want to redraft this pattern completely?  That is what it feels like I would be doing.  All before checking the various lengths.  Generally, I remove between 1 and 1 1/2"  around the upper hip and add it back at the waist.  If I changed that length after fixing the balance line, what does that do to the balance of the pattern?

I did draw a horizonal balance line at the hip and I will use the shorten/length line on the leg for the horizontal balance line on the leg.  I have also marked the knee on the pattern.  I am considering abandoning the fit book and draping the pant.  In fact I am heavily leaning in that direction.  I am thinking that I picked a "too hard" project to start that way of fixing a pattern or it could be that I am a lazy sewer.  Either way, I think I am going to go a head and drape this pattern in muslin and see what it looks like.  After I do the draping and return the changes to the pattern, I might look back at the balance and see how it looks then.  

I will keep you updated as I progress but I will be making a muslin of the pattern.  I just need to move forward so I might have some pants to wear.

Happy Stitching!