Friday Update...

 The last two weeks have flown by.  It has been incredibly busy which means I did not do a lot of sewing.  What do I do when I not sewing, buying.  My lastest round of purchases can be found here.  I worked very hard on the fabrics-store.com Phoebe Linen Tank pattern.  After 2 muslins, I decided to start over - muslin 1 and muslin 2.  There was just too much tweaking for a pattern that had already been fitted.  I finished the muslin 3 and make a tank.  There is still a tad bit of tweaking to do but I have a wearable tank.  Probably the most exciting thing that I finished in the couple of weeks has been my son's quilt.  

I checked my project list and my next item off the list will be the Alabama Chanin dress.  It just needs the binding to be finished.  I do not know how to do the binding and that is the reason it is not finished.  See, I admitted it.  I also want to start the slipcovers.  Even getting one pillow done will make me feel good.  This project has marinated long enough.

Hope your stitching time is going well and productive.

Happy Stitching!

Phoebe Tank Muslin III And A Tank...

 I admit that I am getting very bored of this pattern.  It is a good basic to have fitted but blah.  

I made the following adjusts:

1.  Started back at the beginning with the original pattern front.

2.  Took the opportunity to make the raised armscye from the previously altered pattern.

3.  Added 1/4-inch to the side seams of the front pattern after measuring the pattern. 

4.  When stitching the seam sides, I pinned the back to have 1/4-inch seam. 

Here are the results:

Okay I got a little ahead of myself and started pinning in the front dart.  you can see that it seems to flat on the side that has the dart.  There is a bit of visible gapping on the opposite side. There is a tad bit of vertical wrinkles on the front and it could be a bit too much width. 

It appears to be hanging smoothly front and back at the armhole.  Not sure about the hang of the front.  Could be my belly causing that.   The side seam seems to be hanging straight.

This photo shows the armscyce gapping and the need for a dart.  

This is such a bad picture.  It really is hard to take your own picture.  I can see gapping at the neckline.  The armscye is not uncomfortable but I am wondering if I need a little more length in the back.  This would be a different alteration for me as I would open it up all the was across. Probably not by much, maybe 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch.  I can insert a piece of fabric.

Well, I moved forward with the alterations and then, followed through and cut out from some treasured Liberty of London fabric.  Here are the results:

I still see a few wrinkles.  Sigh!

Just a hit of needing a larger full bust adjustment and a tiny bit of gapping at the armscye.  

It looks like the extra width that I added worked.  Just a little more circumference at the hip in the back and I should be good.  There is no gapping at the neckline.

I can see the need for a larger bust dart but this is what got me into trouble with the first couple of muslins.  The hem is hanging fairly straight and if make the intake on the dart larger, I am not sure that it will hang correctly.  Although it looks like it is swinging forward.  I will need to think about this with the next tank.  Maybe I am just not going to get a wrinkle free look.

Happy Stitching!

It Is Finally Finished - The Quilt That Is...

 It has taken me a long time to finish this quilt.  Although I think that I started it in 2016, I am not sure. Here is the quilt ready to be washed and dried:

The last time I mentioned this quilt was in the post.  I was so sure I would have it finished before Christmas.  I was so wrong.  I think my son will like having this.  

Another item marked off the project list that I posted at the start of the year.  I am not sure what the next project will be.  I really need to work on some clothes and I have three top patterns mostly muslined.  That will make short work of a few items but I need bottom items as well.  Maybe I go with the Alabama Chanin dress that just needs the binding to be finished.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Linen Pillow Covers

 Spring is in the air.  Seems like a good time to do a bit of a decor reboot.  Here is some pillow covers:

This is the Pottery Barn Carmelita Flax Linen Pillow Cover.  Price tag: $79.00.  Details: 100% flax linen, reversible, 22"x22", 20" zipper, spot clean.  Check it out online,

I am all for redecorating from time to time.  However, this pillow cover seem a little on the expensive side.  You only need about 3/4 yard of linen, a zipper, and thread to make it.  I will help you out a bit.  Here is a Flanged Pillow tutorial.  Linen fabrics can be found at this store.  Be sure to check out the daily specials and the doggie bags.  

Making your own pillow covers means you get to decide color, size, and style.  They can easily be changed out for the season, if you choose.  You get to decide if the pillow cover is washable.  Linen can easily be put in the washer, if you wash it before you start.

The pillow forms can be expensive.  The pillow forms at Pottery Barn are not a bad price.  Surprisingly.  

Happy Sewing!

Phoebe Tank Muslin II Pattern Work...

 Here is the pattern work for the changes from the last Phoebe Tank Muslin:

In this picture, I have taken the traced front and added the bust point.  From there, I added a horizontal line going through the bust point from side-to-side and a vertical line going down from the bust point to the hem.

Since the intake for the dart in the muslin was 1 1/4-inches, I increased the length by 2 1/2-inches.  I used the horizontal line through the bust point for this.

On the last muslin, I decided that it was pulling ever so slightly through the bust.  So, I added a 1/4-inch to the width at the vertical line.  Also, I folded in the dart adding the dart shaping.

 

Here I cut the vertical line all the way to the bust point and closed the dart.  This caused the hem line to swing outward.  

Here I filled in the bottom portion of the open section at the hem.  Then, took the original fitted to slim down the area that increased width because of moving the dart from the side to the bottom.  Finally step hem was to use a curved ruler to draw in the new curved hem.  If this fits, I will retrace another fitted front for the pattern.

Here is the new muslin:

Well, honestly, I do not see a lot of difference between the front of version 2 and version 1.  I still see gaping at the armhole and plenty of wrinkles indicating that I need a FBA, which has already been done.

The side view definitely shows that the wrinkles around the bust need additional attention and a small amount of gapping at the armhole.

Back has had no changes.  Something I see now is that I may need a little more length just below the neckline.  The neckline does not appear to be laying flat.

 

Again, the reoccurring issue with the bust area and the gapping at the armhole.  The front is too long.  

I can not leave well enough alone.  This front version still needs work.  Here is me playing a little more:

I have pinned in a dart from the armscye which resulted in no gaping and I can still pinch in another at the bustline.  Something is not right here.  I am thinking that I need to start over with the original pattern.  UGH!  

I do not usually do more than one muslin.  I am definitely going to start over on the front.  The back fits mostly.  I think a little more room in the hip is needed.  How did I ever wear the other tops that I made?  I thought that they fitted fairly well but maybe not.  

So, my next steps are to retrace the originally pattern not the "fitted" pattern that I had.  Although, I will most likely go ahead and raise the armscye as I had to raise it significantly.  Well see what happens with the next muslin version.

Happy Stitching!

More Purchases...

 Even though my stash is overflowing, I just can not resist a sale at The Confident Stitch.  Through March 25, 2023 there is a 20% off sale.  I took advantage and purchased a couple of things.  Here they are:

I purchased another copy of the Merchant & Mills Factory Dress.  I have looked and looked for the copy that I had fitted but it seems to be lost.  I have continued to purchase fabric to make more dresses so it was time to purchase the pattern again.  This is a great dress pattern.  Perfect for hot summer days and can be embellished.  You can see the one I made here.

This is the Liesl & Co Hollywood Trousers pattern.  I have been wanting a pair of denim trousers and this is perfect.  On the Oliver & S blog, there are various tutorials.  Different look, same pattern.  I hope this pattern will get a lot of use.

I got 2 1/4 yards of the Essex Speckled Linen in Dolphin.  My intentions is to make a Merchant & Mills Clementine Skirt.    I have denim to make the skirt already so I think I will get it fitted and make two skirts.  

I have gotten really good at the planning stage and not so good at the follow through on the projects.  I am working very hard at correcting that issue.  We will see how long it takes me to get there.

Some of the links on this page are affiliate links.  I am an affiliate of The Confident Stitch.  Any purchases through these links would result in a small commission at no cost to you.  Thank you!

Happy Stitching!

Phoebe Tank Muslin...

 In 2020, I spent a great deal of time living with my parents.  I took the time to fit some great patterns which the Fabrics-store Phoebe Tank was one.  This is a free pattern and well worth checking out.  I thought that I had lost the fitted copy of this pattern and much to my amazement I found it.  

So, I made a copy of the fitted pattern and cut it out in muslin.  Here are the results:

The front is showing that I definitely need a little more circumference and a larger invisible dart.

This picture just reinforces the need for a larger dart.  There is gapping at the armsyce and pulling under the bust.  I think I need a wee bit more circumference in the front.

The back is not too bad.  I am not going to address the tiny bit of wrinkling as it could be will be that I need a little more circumference in the hip area.  It will be address when I re-work the front.

Again, you can see the gapping at the armscye.  Here is the result when I pulled out the pins and starting pinning in a deeper dart: 

Here you can see that the pinning in of a larger dart addressed the armscye gapping.  

Side view of the dart.  The armscye looks good.  

For this view, I changed my bra to see how the fitting changes looked.  Still good, I think.

Here you can see how much of an intact that was done with the pinning.  It is a lot.  That is 1 1/4 inches which is 2 1/2 inches.  I have already made an invisible dart on this pattern.  So to me, this is a huge amount.  I will get this transferred to my pattern and create another invisible dart.

I intend to make a new tank out the white linen that I purchased in February.  You can check it out here.  Since I really like this pattern, I have been considering making it into a dress.  Summers are fairly hot here and it helps a lot to have sleeveless items to wear and dresses are especially nice.

Off to work on the front of the pattern - adding a dart and then making it invisible.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Sleeveless Shirtdress

 This week's inspiration is really more about the details.  This shirtdress is sleeveless with some volume which makes it perfect for hot summer days:

This is the Lafayette 148 New York Sleeveless Pin Tucked Shirtdress.  Price tag: $998.00.  Details: approximately 48" long from shoulder to hem, exposed french seams, spread collar, button front, contrast buttons, sleeveless, full length, a-line silhouette, detachable slip included.  Model is 5'10". Dress can be seen at the Neiman Marcus website.

Interesting details on this dress is the exposed french seams and the tucks.  Okay, for some reason the designer called this pintuck but I could not see pintucks just tucks.  Here is a definition of tucks and pintucks:

   A tuck is a fold that has been stitched into place.  A very thin fold is referred to as a pintuck.  

Pintuck as the name implies is very thin.  I generally would use a specialty foot and twin needle for a pintuck where I do not for a tuck. 

So, what do you think about the exposed french seam?  This is something that I have never considered before.  I love the look of a french seams but it has always been an inside finishing technique.  I like the way it gives definition to the waist.  No real need for a belt here.  

As far as a pattern, grab your favorite fitted shirtdress pattern. Now the fun begins.  If the pattern does not already have a yoke and a waist, you will need to create these details by slashing the pattern at the appropriate location.  Decide what size you want your tucks.  This detail travels into the skirt in the form of pleats.  Personally, I would tuck the fabric and then cut out the bodice.  Make the pattern changes to the front and back - yokes, tucks, and pleats.  Remember the exposed french seam so make sure those seam allowances are at the 5/8-inch size.  Also, the pocket on the dress has been stitched on outside of the dress.

Hope you have found some inspiration today.

Happy Stitching!

Itch to Stitch - Zakopane Top

 Itch to Stitch has another new pattern - The Zakopane Top.  This pattern is on sale through March 26, 2023 at 20% off.  All purchasing discounts apply.  Here is the line drawing:

Features:

• Options for regular bust and full bust
• Options for short and long sleeves
• V-neckline with a twist in the center front
• Designed for lightweight knit fabric

Be sure to check out the announcement page to see all the various versions of this top made by the testers.

I am an affiliate of Itch to Stitch.  Should you purchase anything via one of my links I will get a small commission at no cost to you.

Happy Stitching!

It's A Sale...

 The Confident Stitch is having a spring sale.  It is 20% off everything through March 25, 2023.  Use the code DREAM to receive the discount.

I am an affiliate of The Confident Stitch.  Any purchases made using one of the links on the page will result in a small commission at no cost to you.  Thank you!

Happy Stitching!

Friday Update...

 This past week has been busy as usual.  I managed to get a haircut which was really nice as it has been five or six months since the last cut.  Fracturing my kneecap slowed me down a little bit.  

I made a muslin of the Love Notions Classic Tee Shirt patten with a scoop neckline.  The fit was better than expected. This made me do a little happy dance.  I am not saying it was perfect but it was good and probably good enough.

I made a muslin of the Fabrics Store Phoebe Tank.  Amazingly, I still had a copy of the pattern that had been fitted.  That makes the whole muslin making a bit easier.  I last check the fit on this in 2020.  The pattern needs tweaking.  A lot of tweaking actually.  I have lost a little bit of weight which is why I decided to check the pattern.  I will create a separate post on what I am doing, why, and the results.

The quilt binding is still coming a long.  I just do not spend enough time on any day to get it completed.  It is almost there though as I am on side 4.  I will never make a king size quilt again.

I purchased yarn to make this kitty house.  My cats are determined to be in the sewing/messy room when I am in there.  I am hoping that they will like this little house enough that I will not have to supervise every second.  One wants to eat everything in sight.  The other wants to nose around in everything.  We will see if they like the house.

Hope all is well.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Suit

 It feels like it has been a long time since matching suits were the style.  I wore them last in the early 20s but they were pant suits.  Here is a lovely skirt suit:

This is Lafayette 148 New York Patch Pocket Tailored Chore Jacket.  Price tag: $1998.00.  Details:  waist-defining vertical seams, pick stitch details, 25 1/2-inches long from shoulder to hem, spread collar, single-breasted front, patch pockets, long sleeves, tailored fit, linen/silk fabric.  

This is Lafayette 148 New York Linen-Silk Pencil Skirt.  Price tag: $798.00.  Details:  vertical front darts, sits high on hips, center back slit, hem hits around the knee, pencil silhouette, invisible zipper, fully lined.  Model is 5'10".  Additional details at Neman Marcus website.

This is Burda Style 6461.  The View B jacket is fairly close to the inspiration jacket.  

This is Butterick 5719.  This pattern is really a bargain with 2 jacket variations, a dress, a skirt, and pants.

Hope you are inspired.

Happy Stitching!

Love Notions Classic Tee Muslin...

 It has taken me a while to get back to the Love Notions Class Tee muslin that I started working on in the early part of February.  I used an inexpensive fabric that I am sure was a Walmart pre-cut.  The fabric was a bear and not very cooperative.  Here is the muslin with the sleeves and neckband:

I am mostly happy with the fit of the front.  The shoulder look pretty good.  I could probably use a bit more of an FBA but I do not know if I want to go through all the effort this go round.  I really need some clothes.

It is hard to see with the black fabric but I think I will add just a little bit of width to the back hip area.  You can see if pulling just a little bit.  

Right and Left Sides.  You can really see the need for additional bust here.  Okay, I had to zoom in to see it.  Maybe I will go ahead and make a small adjustment.  I would kill me to remove the little bit on the side and add a little bit of length on the front.  I will correct the pattern after moving the dart to the hem.

Another item off the project list and almost ready to sew, sew, sew.  There will not be another muslin.

Happy Stitching!

Friday Update...

 I think I will start a Friday update.  Not sure if this will be weekly or monthly.  Sometimes I just do not have time to post what I am up to frequently.  I suppose that is when you mostly see the inspiration posts.  So just to show that I do attempt to do sewing related things throughout my week, I will attempt to do a rambling post.

My string of bad luck seems to be continuing.  My cat bit me and it got infected.  When I say that he bit me, I mean that I have four puncture wounds.  I thought that I cleaned it really well but it took less than 24 hours to have a disgusting infection.  I fully realize that some of this probably had to do with medication that I take that suppresses my immune system.  Right now my arm is a lovely shades of green and red.  The green is the bruising and the red is whatever.  

I am still helping my Mom get settled into her apartment.  It is hard to say whether she likes it or not.  She is accepting the situation.  Next week will be the estate sale at my parents home.  I will be so glad when this is over. The week after my parent's home will hit the market.  I hope that it sells quickly for their sake.

Now, for sewing related stuff.  I am still working on the cleaning the sewing room closet.  Honestly, the whole room is just overwhelming.  I have too much fabric.  I did manage to pull fabrics for some early spring/summer sewing.  I need to finish my muslins so when I sit down to sew I can just sew and not agonize over the fitting part.

I have been working on my son's quilt.  I really wanted to finish it last month but the month ran out of days before the binding was finished.  I still have a couple of sides of binding to finish and then it will be done.  Here is a parting shot of the quilt with my cat (little demon spawn) helping:

He is such a cute little cat but for some reason he likes to bite me.  If anyone has any ideas on how to teach him not to bite me that will not actually cause him any harm, I would love to hear it.  The vet says that it has to do with the age that he was taken from his mama.  We found him when he was about 4 weeks old.  A mama was never seen nor other kittens.  I asked neighbors and people admitted that they had attempted to caught him but he was mean (biting, scratching) but no admitted to him belonging in their household. 

That is my little update.  Maybe the next one will find the quilt finished and a couple of muslins finished.

Happy Stitching!

Fabric...

 My resolve to not purchase fabric is not doing well.  I think I managed not to purchase any fabric for 4 to 6 months.  Believe me when I say that was not enough.  I was not sewing during that time period.  Here is the latest purchase:

I found this at a site called Destashify.  It is the first time I have purchased anything from there.  It is an interesting concept.  This piece is suppose to a cotton twill with about 5% stretch.  

This past Monday, I did a inspiration post on a black/white butterfly dress.  It was not a particular expensive dress but more than I wanted to pay for a dress that may or may not fit.  I decided this fabric would work very well for that dress. Now, I am hoping that this cotton twill is heavy enough for a dress.  

Yes, I will be using this pattern:

I will most likely put pockets on it and make sure that it is knee length.  I am excited and ready to sew.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Sleeveless Dress

 Summer is coming.  Have you started adding to your summer wardrobe yet?  I have been fitting muslins so that when warmer weather hits I can move quickly.

Here is a fabulous spring/summer dress:

This is Talbots Metallic Butterfly Jacquard Dress.  Price tag: $149.00.  Details:  Shift dress, jewel neck, sleeveless, hidden back zipper, hits at knee, lined.

This is not a terribly expensive dress.  I know from experience that this type of dress would never fit me.  The fabric is really key here and probably the hardest part to locate.  If you find a nice jacquard with an all over print.  Let me know.  Now, for the pattern:

Yes, this is my typical pattern for this type of dress - New Look 6500.  View D looks like it is spot on for the styling.  You might want to double-check the length.

Hope you're inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...A-Line Skirt

 Have you started working on your spring/summer wardrobe yet?  Here is a workhorse skirt:

This is Talbots Denim A-Line Skirt. Price tag: $99.50.  Details:  a-line, hits above the knee, button front closure, button flap pocket on the front and welt pockets on the back. Mises skirt length is 20 1/2". Fabric is 70% cotton, 29% polyester, and 1% lycra.

See what I mean about this being a workhorse skirt.  If you were inclined, you could happily wear it daily.  Now on to the patterns:

This is the Ellie & Mac Adult Button Front A-Line Skirt pdf pattern.  This skirt hits all the basics of the inspiration skirt except for the pockets. You get three lengths options and 2 hem options with this pattern.

This is the Seamwork Sawyer Skirt pdf pattern.  This is an a-line with 6 panels and the button front.   This one would most likely require shortening if you want an above the knee skirt and the pocket details would need to be added.

Lots to think of with this inspiration skirt but it is a great skirt.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!