Another Thud on the Porch...

 The buying has continued but I have started sewing again so the purchases should slow down.  Here are the fabrics: 

I purchased 3 yards of this blue/black gingham shirting.  It is 100% cotton and machine wash.  I intend for this to be a long sleeved shirt.

 This is a Graphite 100% cotton denim.  The care is machine wash.  I purchased 3 yards.  I am going to make some jeans.  I have not attempted this in years but I am going to do it.

This is a Prussian Blue cotton/rayon/lycra jersey.  It is machine wash on cold.  I purchased two yards.  I intend to make a t-shirt.

Happy Stitching!

New Jacket Finished...

 This year I decided I wanted a pink jacket.  I really wanted the pink jacket for spring but I missed.  The pattern that I used was the Silhouette Patterns Valentino's Unlined Jacket.   I immediately fell in love with the style lines of this jacket:

I measured an existing jacket and surprisingly, it matched the size 4 on the pattern.  I was skeptical that I could even get into the jacket but I plowed a head.  Here are the results:

As you can see, I got into the jacket.  It has plenty of issues.  Here are the other views:

Lots of issues.  I played around with letting the seams out, pinned in additional darting, sway back, rounded back, etc.  Then I decided to just give myself more space.  To do this, I had to draft a larger size.  How to do this is provided somewhere in the videos that Silhouettes has on you-tube. Here are the results:

This is the equivalent to a size 5 if it existed.  Much better, than the first muslin.  There are still a few issues that need to be addressed.  Here what I did:

Here is what I did - larger bust dart on the front (this went from front prince seam all the way around), dart on sleeve to remove length, rounded back adjustments. 

I have not made the either sleeve adjustment before or the dart going around my back before.  I almost always need a larger dart and high rounded back adjustment.  I decided that I had made enough changes and took them back to the pattern.  Here are the results:

I really like my new jacket.  I just wish it had actually gotten finished in the spring so I could have worn it a bit more.  I can still wear it to church and perhaps to an occasionally restaurant.  Although the restaurant does not seem like a real possibility in the current covid situation in our state.

I am enjoying my new machine.  The buttonholes have worked perfectly every time I have used my machine.  I will do a little review of the machine once I get a little more sewing done it.  It has really taken a bit of getting use to.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration... Cardigan

 Fall looks are showing up now.  This next one is a nice every day type of look.

This is the Lafayette 148 New York Button-Front Donegal Cardigan.  Price tag: $998.00.  Details: approximately 32" from shoulder to hem, v neckline, button front, long raglan sleeves, patch pockets, relaxed silhouette, ribbed cuff and hem, cashmere/wool/nylon.

I love the color of this cardigan.  Neiman Marcus website called it Tile Blue multi.  I think overall I like the outfit.  It is very wearable like a day-to-day type outfit.  I probably would not be happy with the turtleneck but I would happily wear the jeans and boots.  I was not able to locate a cardigan pattern with the exact same shape but I did find this one:

This is Silhouette Pattersn #915 Hugo's Favorite Cardigan.  It could be a starting point.  It would definitely need pockets added.

Do you know of a cardigan pattern that has more of a boyfriend cardigan look?   Please let me know.

Happy Stitching!

Love Notions Allegro Pants...

 In the past few months, I have purchases several Love Notions patterns.  So now, I am making myself make some of the patterns.  First up is the Allegro Bottoms and I choice the full-length pants.  Here is the muslin:

The front looks pretty good.

The back needs a little work.  I will start at the hip.  Here is that modification pinned:

I think that little dart cleaned up the leg fairly well.  I did sit with these pants and there a length issue.  This is what I did to the pattern:  transferred the hip dart, added the length of the dart back at the waist, and added an additional inch for sitting.  Here is the result:

This is a gray mystery fabric far different than the original muslin.  I think the front still looks good but the back still have issues.  I think that these are perfectly wearable even with the funky wrinkles.  They are as good as anything that I can purchase.  

This is a fairly popular pattern.  You should check out the variations on youtube.  

Happy Stitching!

Design Your Wardrobe Time...

 Yep, August is coming which means it is time for another round of Design Your Wardrobe at Seamwork.  I have decided to participate this time.  The last 1 1/2 years has been really hard on my wardrobe.  I have not been in a department store in at least 1 1/2 years.  Well, I have been to Kohl's.  I suppose it is a department store of sorts but for me it is a quick in and out.  No real shopping.  Of course, there was not much in the store.  Lots of empty shelfs and racks.  More or less purchase on-line and return to the store.  In fact, that is why I was there.   Okay, back to Design Your Wardrobe.

The Design Your Wardrobe changes a little bit every time it is offered.  You do need to be a member to participate.  This round using prints and color.  I really need to consider what I want.  Most of my winter wardrobe is tucked  away so there will be some guessing going on. Here are my goals:

    1.  Use what I have.  I know this is a novel idea and hard to follow through on.  It would be very nice if I used up some of the hundreds of yards of fabric that I have collected.

    2.  Try not to over plan.  This one is a bit hard.  However, I have to realize I just do not have the time to complete a multitude of items.  I admit it will depend a lot on the patterns used.

So, have you ever followed through a wardrobe planning event like Design Your Wardrobe?  How do it work out for you?  This is my third time working through the process.  The first time, I did a lot of planning and did not follow through on anything.  The second time, I realized my mistake was that I planned too much the first time which made it over whelming.  I completed a jacket and dress.  The jacket has been worn a lot and the dress not at all.   I think the dress was more that the timing was off.  Really in the past 1 1/2 years, I have not really needed a dress.  The third round, I am going to go with pants.  This means I need to start working on muslins so I can just sew.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Boyfriend Jacket

 In the heat of the summer is not normally when I am thinking about fall/winter clothes.  However if you start now, it will be ready when you need it.

This week we have another jacket to consider:

This is Akris punto Tartan Check Boyfriend-Fit Jacket.  Price tag: $1390.00.  Details: tartan check pattern, notched lapel, single-button front, long sleeves, vented cuff, side flap pockets, viscose/cotton/nylon fabric, acetate lining.  

This is a beautifully made jacket.  I would love to have this in my closet but I do not love the price tag. I have included the back view on this one so you could see that the collar  matches the back as well. Here is a pattern option:

This is McCall's 7818.  I think it is a good match to the inspiration photo.  The back is slightly different.  If considering using a plaid, match sure to purchase enough fabric to cut the plaid to match.  This is usually one extra repeat per large pattern piece.  I would even consider getting a plaid to make the muslin.  If you are going to match the plaid it does take planning especially those sleeve heads.

Hope you are inspired to create something beauiful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...T-Shirt Dress

 Summer is full blast here.  Clothes that help keep you cool is a necessity.  This dress should be quick and simple, if you already have a pattern fitted.

This is the Theory Boat-Neck Midi Dress. Price tag: $375.00.  Details: Solid dress with side slits, short sleeves, boat neck, side seam pockets, midi length, shift silhouette, acetate/viscose, dry clean.

Folks, I think we can do better than that price tag.  A lot better.  Grab your favorite t-shirt pattern and add the additional length needed to make a dress.  Remember to add some width in the hip area so you can sit down.  Add some side seam pockets.  Calculate the fabric needed.  Easy, easy.

How many dresses could you make for that price tag?  Even if you purchase 3 yards at $20/yd, I'm guessing around 7.  I would not want that many dresses in exactly the same style but I could definitely wear a loose fitting dress 7 days a week when the temperature hits 90F.  

As for the styling, it is a bit young for me.  I would probably be wearing sandals or canvas slip ons.  Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

First Month With The New Machine....

 Why are new sewing machines scary?  In my case, it has everything to do with the new technology.  You can refer to this post when I received the machine.  While I am waiting on the muslin to arrive, I am just playing around with the machine.  

The first thing you need to do is turn on the machine.  That is when you say "Oh, why did I do this?".  Yep even though I had read the manuals and thought I was prepared, when I actually turning the machine on made me it realize I did not know how to raise the pressure foot.  Fiddling around I figured out two ways to raise the pressure foot.  One being the presser foot up/down button on the front of the machine and the other being the knee lift of free hand system, which is amazing.  I discovered that if you lightly press the knee lift that the presser foot will hoover and if you push it all the way to the right the presser foot rises and the tensions are released. 

The second thing that I did was thread related.  Winding the bobbin was an adventure and required getting my computer out to read the manual.  After two attempts, I finally got a bobbin to wind correctly.  Right now, I thinking that a bobbin winder sounds pretty good.  My featherweight is easier to wind a bobbin.  Threading the machine was really not an issue. Inserting the bobbin did not appear to be an issue but I had tension issues from the moment I put in the new bobbin.  The bobbin thread was being pulled to the top.  I stopped at this point and visited the Bernette Facebook page to see if anyone else had had this issue and what the fix was.  You know it is a simple fix, right?  Take the bobbin out and insert it correctly.  Once I did that, the tension issues disappeared.  

Now, I am playing with the different menus.  I think I need to create little cards that will be cheat sheets showing the various menus and stitches. Maybe I will be able to incorporate that into the stitch bible.  That would be much better I think.  Here is a few pages of the stitch bible:

This will be the first page of the stitch bible.  It is the very basic stitches.  If you zoom in you can see the various stitches along with the adjustments.  It is also very easy to see which stitches require a heavier stabilizer than what I'm using.

This is the second page of the stitch bible.  It is dedicated to darning stitches, various types of buttonholes, eyelets, and the stitch for sewing on the button.  These stitches I did not really play with.  They are just straight programmed from the machine.  Some of the buttonholes look better than others.  I am not sure what the really decorative buttonholes would be used for but they sure are pretty.

This is the start of what I think are the stitches for quilting.  This page is more or less the various straight stitches, joining stitches, and applique stitches.  I will probably play around more with the applique stitches as that is something I do from time to time.

This page is also part of the quilting menu.  The stitches are getting more decorative.  It is rather surprising at how much some of these stitches change when you move away from the default settings. I can see doing decorative stitching on tops and such using some of these.

Well that is all I have accomplished toward my stitch bible in the past month.  I know it seems slow but my awake hours at home are very limited.  Occasionally, I will get a day to myself.  I am getting more comfortable with the machine and the oddities that go with it.  The machine has not earned a name yet and it might not.  More pages will show up as time allows.

I have completed a pillow case with the machine. Okay the serger did the seams and the machine did the hem and you know I had to play with the decorative stitches.  You can find the post here.  Pillow cases are simple to make.  Especially when you have been in a funk like I have.  Easy projects get you going again.  I am ready to go.  I have done several muslins but not really completed anything since February. 

I am ready to sew.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Jacket

 It seems like summer inspiration just started.  However, fall and winter is showing up in the stores.  We will start with a jacket:

This is the Akris punto Cashmere-Wool Bomber Jacket.  Price tag: $1490.00.  Details:  Stand collar, button front, long sleeves, yoked back, side flap pockets, virgin wool - cashmere, cupro lining.

I love everything about this jacket.  It remembers me of the Seamwork Rhett jacket.  Here is the line drawings:

Pattern changes would be to modify the collar, add a flap, a back yoke, and no back seam.  I have made a variation on the Rhett jacket and you can see my version here.    Here is another pattern that might provide a similar look:

This is the Merchant & Mills Ottoline Jacket pattern.  It has a two piece sleeve that would help with fitting and it has a yoke.  It has a little more details than the Seamwork pattern.  The link provided is for a paper pattern.  If interested in a pdf or larger sizing, go directly to the Merchant & Mills website.

Neither of these patterns include a lining option.  If the jacket is not make from wool, you might not need a lining.  Entirely up to you.

Hope you are inspired to start your jacket/coat sewing early for fall/winter.  It would certainly be nice to have the jacket ready to go when Mother Nature decides to cool it off.

Happy Stitching!

Finally A Completed Project...

 It seems like forever since I actually finished a project.  That bag is February really put me off sewing for a while.  There is nothing like a simple project to get things rolling again and this project could not be simpler.  It is a pillow case for a body pillow.  Here is the fabric which I never admitted to getting:

I know this is crazy fabric but I just loved the colors.  The walls in my bedroom are in the shades of the softer bluish green.  The quilt on my bed is navy.  I figured this would be a good look.  I do not do anything fancy for the pillow case.  Basically, I figure out how much fabric that I need and add a little extra for shrinkage and being off grain.  I purchased 2 1/4 yards of 42" wide cotton and I have less than 1/2" left.  This is one of the few times that my cutting is done with a rotary cutter.  I straighten the fabric with the first cut and then start measuring until I get to the desired length and then another rotary cut.  Don't forget to add seams and hems to the length.  In my case, the pillow is 54" long.  Basic construction was completed on the serger.  Then, I turned to a decorative stitch on the Bernette B77.  Here is a simple of the stitch:

I thought this stitch looked a bit like waves so I used it to hem the pillow case. Not that you can really tell.

Yeah, this funky stitch took about 20 minutes to complete.  It turned out okay for what I needed but it's a shame you can not see it.  Here is the completed case on the pillow:

My husband likes it and that is all that matters.  

My first completed project with the Bernette B77.  Maybe this will give me courage to really get to using it more.  I have buttonholes on projects that need to be finished.

Hope you are inspired to do some simple sewing for yourself.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Slim Legged Pants

It is time to start looking toward fall and thinking about late summer and early fall.  Pants are something that are always needed in my wardrobe.  Here is a nice versatile pant:

This is the Lafayette 148 Gramercy Acclaim-Stretch Pants. Price tag: $448.00.  Details: Approximate measurements: 8-inch front rise, 28-inch inseam, 36-in outseam, 13-inch leg opening; sits at natural waist, slim through thigh, hidden side zipper, narrow leg opening, cropped at ankle, nylon/spandex fabric.  

This reminds me a little bit of cigarette pants.  However, the first pattern that came to mind is this one:

This is Textile Studios Soho Pant pattern.  This is a long out-of-print pattern but you could probably find one looking into the used pattern market.  This pant has a high concealed elastic waist with 14" leg opening, and invisible zipper at the hip.  

The next pattern that came to mind is:

This is the Seamwork-Colette Clover pant pattern.  Two versions are included ankle length and cropped.  This pattern requires a stretch woven.

I think both of these pants would work well for the inspiration photo.  You might get by with using a double-needle and stitching down the front/back of the pant if you are so inclined.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!