New Fabric...

 The sewjo is slowly coming back and I am starting to prep for winter.  That means I purchasing fabric.  Here is my latest purchases:

This is a stretch suiting in a denim color.  I purchased two yards with the intend of it being a skirt. It is a very nice fabric. Machine wash gentle cycle, low dry temp.

This is a blue/white striped chambray.  I intended to make a button down shirt with it but the fabric is very thin (sheer) and I am not sure that I would wear it.  I purchased three yards.  Other than being fairly sheer, it looks like the picture.

 
This is a checked fabric that I found in the Wal-Mart precuts.  I purchased it thinking it would be nice for a pant muslin but it is much nicer than I thought it was.  I plan on making a long skirt.

This is a striped sweater knit.  It is another Wal-Mart pre-cut and there are two yards.  I plan on my a t-shirt type top or sweater.  I can not tell what type of fabric it is but I will do a burn test to check.

So, I think I have purchased enough fabric for now.  I only piece I am disappointed with is the blue/white chambray.  The website had it listed as heavy enough for shorts.  I think that they missed the boat but maybe I can find an interested blouse pattern that will work but I still want a blue/white striped button down.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Crepe Shirtdress

 This would be a great dress for a professional job:

This is the Belted Crepe Shirtdress by Lafayette 148 New York. Price tag: $798.00.  Details:  finesse crepe with a matching belt, approximately 39 1/2" from shoulder to hem, spread collar with concealed button front, long sleeves with button cuffs, approximately 6-inch center back slit, sheath silhouette, hem hits around knees, side zipper, acetate/polyester, dry-clean. Model is 5'10".

This is probably one of my favorite versions of a shirtdress that I have seen in a while.  It is dressy enough for the office and makes an easy office outfit.  Red is a power color and every one should have a dress in that color.  I really wish that I could see this particular dress up close as I have no idea how that concealed placket is finished.  Actually, I have never seen this done before on a dress or shirt without a full placket.  Maybe I need to visit the local mall to see if there is anything with this feature.

As far as the pattern, I have never seen a pattern like this.  EVER.  Does this mean our pattern companies are failing to produce patterns with great deals?  Yes, I think so.  So, here is my suggestion:

Use a shirt or shirtdress pattern that you have already fitted.  I used the Classic Shirt pattern by Liesl & Co in September of 2023 to make a shirtdress of a similar style.   Here are the posts - Part 1, Part 2, Part 3.  The instructions that I followed were good.

If you want to figure out the detail of the concealed button front, here is a start.  This is the tutorial that I plan to use to make the Classic Shirt have a concealed button front.

As for the fabric, I do not know what Finesse Crepe is.  So, I would suggest using a crepe that is the highest quality/price that you are comfortable with.  Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Round Two...Dana Point Top Muslin 2

 After looking over the photos from the first muslin of the Dana Point Top, I decided to try another muslin.  Here are the changes that I made to the pattern:

1.  Return the 3/4-inch to area above the bust both front/back

2.  Removed the 1/4-inch that had been added at the waist front/back.

3.  This is the biggy - added 1 1/2-inches to the length in the front by slicing through the bust point. This makes the dart bigger.

4.  Added 1/2-inch to the side seam below the dart. The alternative could be reducing the size of the pleats on the front.

Next, I checked the stash for a lightweight fabric that would have enough drape and I was willing to use as a muslin.  I have lots of fabric and not all of it is located at my house but I did not find anything  that I was willing to use in such a manner.  Walmart did have a fabric that should work just fine.  

The Walmart fabric was just as icky as the first muslin but it pressed better. Here are the pictures of the second muslin:

Well, this muslin looks a little bit better but I can see that the pulling up in the front and still swinging forward a little bit.  I need more length added to the front.  

This is a really good example of the differences that bras make when taking measurements.  When I have a better fitting bra on, the darts are in the correct spot.  Just saying, wear the same bra for any fittings and wearing. 

I have officially given up on this pattern.  It was a fun experiment to step a little outside my comfort zone with a different sleeveless top pattern than my Phoebe Tank.  

Review of the pattern:

The pattern is well drafted.  The instructions are good.  Since I never made a completed top, it is hard for me to say much about the lining portion of the pattern.  I do think that the lining would not show on this pattern unless you did not follow the instructions.  

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Ribbed Dress

 This dress feels more like fall but if it is warmer where you are, it could maybe work into winter with a jacket.

This is the Ribbed Mock-Neck Sweater Dress by Lafayette 148 New York. Price: $798.00.  Details:  ribbed knit, mock neckline, elbow length, hem hits around the knee (43-inches from shoulder to hem), shift silhouette, pull over style, cashmere/wool.  Model is 5'10".

This is a simple silhouette and the color is fairly basic which could easily make it a go-to dress.  If grey is not your color, you get pick.  I have a couple of thoughts on patterns:

The is the Seamwork Edie Top pdf pattern.  I think the neckline on this is perfect.  As for the remainder of the dress, this one would probably work:

This is the Seamwork Lito T-shirt Dress pdf pattern.  This would give you the looser fit through the body.  The pattern would most likely need to be lengthened depending on you height.  The sleeves would need to be lengthened as well.  

If you do not mind french darts, this pattern lengthened would work:

This is the Silhouette Patterns Fisher's Mock Tee Top.  The pattern would need to be lengthened into a dress.  

Hope you are inspired to make a great, everyday type of dress.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Plaid Jacket

 How about a plaid jacket for fall/winter?  This is more like a suit jacket.  Here it is:

This is the Button-Down Woven Plaid Jacket by Lafayette 148 New York. Price tag: $1498.00.  Details: plaid woven jacket with woven buttons, crew neck, button front, long sleeves, buttoned chest patch pockets, relaxed fit, wool/cotton/nylon/polyamide, fill - thermal pad.  Model is 5'10".

I am really drawn to this type of jacket.  I love the fabric type.  I am not crazy for this particular colorway but that is why I sew.  I get to pick my own fabric.

If you are looking for a pattern, they are hard to find.  Vogue has a basic pattern of this type but it does not have button up the front.  My suggestion is look for a Claire Shaeffer jacket pattern, if you can find one that is affordable. There is a Freddie Jacket pdf pattern by Bella Loves Patterns on Etsy that looks reasonably close.  I do know know anything about that pattern company but the patterns are more reasonable than the prices I was seeing for the Claire Shaeffer patterns.  Silhouette Patterns has the Janie Jacket which is similar but you might need to add the button area.  

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Silk Blouse

 Well we have seen jackets and skirts for fall, here is a blouse:

This is the Scottie Graphic-Print Silk Twill Blouse by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $798.00.  Details:  this features a hand painted silk, approximately 27" from shoulder to hem, spread collar, concealed button front, long sleeves, button cuffs, box pleat back yoke, relaxed fit, silk, dry clean.  Model is approximately 5'10".

I am going to recommend my favorite shirt pattern as I have it already fitted:

This is the Liesl & Co Class Shirt pattern.  I have found it to be a well drafted pattern.  Changes would be to add the hidden shirt placket.  I think that is it.

If you really want the silk twill, it can be had on many websites starting around $30 per yard.  Personally, I would go for a easier care version in a polyester blend of some sort.  Although silk care be washed safely at home if you are careful.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Blazer

 Fall is just around the corner and it is time to start planning the fall/winter wardrobe.  A good addition would be a jacket.  This one is perfect:

This is the Single Button Pick Stitch Blazer by Lafayette 148 New York. Price tag: $1,498.00. Details: Approximately 25-inches from shoulder to hem, notched lapel, single button front, long sleeves, vertical waist darts, front welt pockets, relaxed fit, wool/elastane, dry clean. Model is 5' 10".

As you can tell by the price tag, jackets are a great item to make and save a little or a lot.  Peggy Sagers at Silhouette Patterns has a lot of jacket patterns but amazingly not of them are exactly right for duplicate this pattern.  However, this pattern from Vogue does do a good job:

This is Vogue 1870. You get the jacket and the pants.  The pants are flared which are very different the Lafayette 148 New York version but that flare can always be removed.  This is a style choice for you to make.  The lapel is a little bit different as well.

Here is another jacket pattern that might be a little closer to the inspiration:

This is the Jasika Blazer pattern by Closet Core Patterns.  It is a classic pattern and the exception of the lower edge of the front jacket matches very well to the inspiration.  That area of the jacket could easily be modified.

As always if you have a jacket/blazer pattern already fitted, use that and save the money for fabulous fabric.  Make some matching pants.  The Lafayette 148 New York pair are $898.00.  We can make and fit pants that cost way less than that even if purchased very expensive fabric.  Right?  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Maxi Skirt

 There is just something about a pencil skirt.  I love pencil skirt and wore them all the time when I was a young professional.  I would love to own this skirt:

This is the Straight Houndstooth Maxi Skirt by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $698.00.  Details:  center back slit, hem falls below knee, skirt falls straight from hip to hem, invisible back zipper, wool/acrylic/nylon/polyamide, dry clean.

I love the look of this skirt.  I do not love the price or the actual fabric type.  I do not want a dry clean only fabric in a skirt.  This skirt does not look like it has a waistband.  Take a close up look at the skirt at Neiman Marcus.  If I was making this skirt, I would follow the instructions for a narrow waistband here.  Otherwise, be sure to use a petersham ribbon like the one sold at The Sewing Place.  This ribbon is colorfast and 100% rayon. 

Here is a few patterns to consider:

This is New Look 6697. It is pretty close to the inspiration photo with the exception that is actually has a waistband.  Bonus: you get a little crop top pattern.

This is McCall's 8004.  This pattern has three skirt versions.  View C is closest to the inspiration skirt.  This one has pleats instead of darts plus a waistband.  

This is Butterick 6746.  This pattern gives you several variations.  View A or B lengthened and a slit added would be very close to the inspiration skirt.

Houndstooth fabric is fairly easy to find.  Since you are making this, you are not limited to the black and white.  Make it your's.

Happy Stitching!

Muslin Dana Point Top...

 I recently purchased the Itch to Stitch Dana Point Top pdf.  It was a summer special. I decided to play with fit up front before cutting any fabric.  When we purchase patterns, we usually purchase by the horizontal measurements but the vertical measurements are just as important.  So, I decided to follow along with the Lifting Pins and Needles "Let's Sew Our Best Fitting Top" series.  To follow along with the series, work from the bottom upward. 

Here is a line drawing of the Itch to Stitch Dana Point Top pdf:

I decided to print a size 12 and 16.  I used the 12 in the top portion and the 16 from the armscye to bottom.  Here are the changes that I made based on the measurements that I took:

1.  Took 1-inch out of the front armscye.

2.   Took 3/4-inch from the area just above the bust dart front and back.

3.  Add 1/4-inch at the waist front and back.

All of these changes make the assumption that I took all of my vertical measurements correctly.  I did remeasure with each change that I made as I made the changes starting from the shoulder. I did pick and incredibly terrible polyester fabric from my stash to make this muslin.  Here is the first muslin:

When I made this I purposefully put the details on the outside and hemmed the neck and armscye.  The neckline is really puffy, the dart is too long, and the whole dart seems to be too high.  Then, I decided that the top could really benefit from me turning it to the inside out so that the pleats and dart would be inside.  Unfortunately that means that all of my level markings are no longer visible.  Here is the top turned:

The top looks a little better with the pleats to the inside.  However, you can really see that the top is swinging forward and out.  No doubt in my mind that I need to add more length but it looks like a lot of length and I'm not sure I can fix it.  It feels like adding the length will mess with the pleat placement on the belly. Maybe I'm wrong was the waist line is pointed upward.  

Maybe I will look around and see if I can find a draping, lightweight fabric and do another muslin.  A drapier fabric will allow the pleats to hang better.  What are you thoughts?

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Silk Blouse

 Have you been thinking about your fall/winter wardrobe?   I have a bit.  It is almost too hot to think much about it but I am trying.  Here is a blouse that I really like the abstract nature of the print:

This is the Scottie Abstract-Print Silk Blouse by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $798.00.  Details: approximately 27-inches long, spread collar with consealed button front, long sleeves, button cuffs, box pleat back yoke, relaxed fit, silk/elastane, dry clean only.

Looks like a typical button-down shirt with some minor changes.  I have this pattern fitted already:

This is the Classic Shirt pattern by Liesl & Co.   This is a well drafted pattern and I highly recommend it.  Here ise a tutorial for doing the hidden button placket -   How to Make a Hidden Button Placket.

You might want to check out this top on the Neiman Marcus website.  The buttons are a little different near the collar and the cuffs are a little different.  

Hope you are inspired to make something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Denim Skirt

 I found another denim skirt with different style lines than the last one:

The is the Washed Denim A-Line Midi Skirt by Akris Punto.  Price tag: $560.00.  Details:  high waist, angled side slip pockets, hem falls below the knee, a-line silhouette, center front vented hem, invisible side zipper, cotton/wool/nylon/polyamide, dry-clean.

This is a nice simple silhouette and we can do better than a dry clean skirt.  Here are a couple of options for patterns:

This is New Look 6767.  To me this skirt is spot on for the inspiration skirt plus you get a top pattern.  The only issue that I see is that it is designed for lighter weight fabric.  I would try it any way.

This is Vogue 2032.  This pattrn has slightly different style lines than the inspiration photo but still pulls the general look.  I think the slit maybe a bit deeper on this one.  

Are you ready to pull out those boots?  I think this skirt and the last denim skirt are just perfect for cooler weather and boots.  Hope you are inspired.

Happy Stitching!

Cool Summer Sandwich...

 It has been a long time since I have posted a favorite meal.  A lot has changed since then.  I am plant based now but I still fix some of these favorites from time to time espcecially the fish.  

This sandwich/salad whatever you want to call it I found last summer and I have given the website address to a dozens of people.  It is called The Ultimate Chickpea Salad Sandwich.  Here is a picture from the website:

Let me tell you, this salad is like crack as in it is hard to stop eating it once you start.  Here is the link to this fabulous salad. 

I would say get creative this.  I prefer Veganaise when making this salad but my local Walmart has decided not to carry it anymore and I have not made time to check any of the other local stores.  If you are not vegan or plant-based, then use your favorite mayonaise or salad dressing.  Make it your own.

Now that you have made up a big batch of this salad, you have more than for other fun things.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Denim Skirt

 If you like wearing boots or not, this is the perfect skirt for winter:

This is the Winter Denim Flared A-Line Midi Skirt by Akris Punto.  Price tag: $695.00. Details: high waisted, hem falls below the knee, a-line silhouette, invisible back zipper, cotton/wool/nylon/polyamide, dry clean.

I think we can beat that price and find a fabric that is washable to work with.  Here is a pattern:

This is McCall's 6993.  The pattern includes two views.  Here is the line drawings:

View B is an almost idenitical version of the inspiration photo.  There are lots of patterns for this type of skirt.  If you look carefully on Google, you can find instructions for drafting this type of skirt.  

What about the fabric?  If I really wanted to duplicate the skirt closely, I would get a dark wash, light weight denim that is maybe 4 to 6 oz.  I think that is light enough to get that drape.  Etsy has a good selection. Cali Fabrics has a denim blue suiting that would be perfect for this type of skirt.  

Have you got those creative thoughts going?  The skirt doesn't have to be denim.  Hope you are inspired.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Vest

 I have been hearing a lot about a vest being the thing for fall.  For inspiration photos, go to neiman marcus website and search for vest.  There are just too many variations.  Here are a few patterns to consider:

1.  Butterick - 6901 and 6902 - These are Lisette patterns and also include shorts/pants.  

2.  Merchant & Mills  - The Billy - This is a unisex pattern.  

3.  Venturing to the Simplicity website and searching for vests will result in a large variety of vest styles for the entire family.

4. Style Arc has a variety of vest patterns.

I think that might be a nice start to look for a vest of some sort.  I am going to go through my 100s of patterns and see what may or may not be stashed in there.  Maybe I will find a vest and some fabric.  A vest should be a quick and easy item to stitch up for an up to date look.

Happy Stitching!