I always seem to miss the deadline at the library for returning books. Of course, this gives me a good excuse to look at sewing books. I found a good one today - Create The Perfect Fit by Joi Mahon. I have seen the author's name from time to time but I do not know much about her. This book is direct and to the point. It is about fitting but more importantly explains actually measuring your body and measuring the pattern. Everyone should take the time to measure your body both horizontally and vertically.
I believe that most people know to measure their bust and hips when purchasing a pattern range. Then, get upset when the pattern does not fit out of the package. I admit this has happened to me. Only because I went from not having many issues with pattern to "why doesn't anything fit anymore?". It is all about age, in my opinion.
The book is broke down into chapters:
Chapter 1 - the basics tools needed, measuring yourself and the pattern, solving issues before cutting
Chapter 2 - vertical torso adjustments
Chapter 3 - horizontal torso adjustments
Chapter 4 - vertical lower body adjustments
Chapter 5 - horizontal lower body adjustments
Chapter 6 - vertical arm adjustments
Chapter 7 - horizontal arm adjusments
Chapter 8 - ease and polished fit
Chapter 9 - garment application workbook
Chapter 10 - Real bodies, real fit
This thinking corresponds with some of the techniques that Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns has taught for years - LCD or length circumference depth. I use a lot of fitting techniques from Peggy but I think I be able to do better. I am going to work through the book and see how things look with my basic patterns afterward. How nice would it be if that muslin only needed minor tweaks to fit? I do not remember in any of the sewing classes that I have taken any mention of needing to know vertical measurements. Those numbers are really important. The Vogue Sewing Book does state to take those measurements. Yes, I knew to take them be brushed it off as unimportant. Age has been teaching me that it is important.
As I work through this book, I will update from time to time to tell you how the patterns look compared to my measurements. Circumference is not usually an issue because I purchase by hip/waist with the exception of the arm. Length though is a different animal all together. I have only recently been checking lengths on a pattern verses lengths on me and it has been a real eye opener.
Have you read/followed this book? How did it work out for you? What do you for fitting? Just guess, make a muslin and adjust, etc.
Happy Stitching!