Seamwork Bertie Muslin Part 1...

Way back in February, I posted about purchasing fabrics for specific projects.  I'm just now getting to the Bertie project.  In February, I wanted to make short sleeves.  I've decided to change that up a bit.  I'm still making Bertie:


However the change will be that I'm making the member bonus with the 3/4 length sleeves with cuffs.  This will make the dress wearable for the upcoming seasons.  Use can see this variation in Seamwork Magazine issue #63 here.

To really get a feel for this pattern, I had to do more detail stitching than I normally would with a muslin.  Here's my shortened version:

The front isn't bad. You can see that I need more space for the bust.  I just need to decide how I'm going to go about adding it.  The "V" is much lower than I want to wear so I will need to figure out the neckline and get it trued. 

 The left side view really starts showing issues.  Definitely need a larger dart.  Might have to add a bit of belly room also.  It also looks like there is too much in the back.  I may need to add a high round back alteration.  I will have to wear the muslin around the house to see about that.  The sleeves appear to fit fairly well.  I didn't feel any tightness.

This view actually shows that the neckline is pulled down and the seams are pulling back.  I can do a quick check on this by adding a piece of maybe an 1 or 1 1/2 down from the neckline.  Until that is resolved, I don't think I can correct anything else.  Generally when I start messing with the shoulder area, I need to remove it at the waist.  That may not be the case with this dress.  I was unable to find a a picture of the back of the this garment in my size range.

I like to do only one muslin per garment but the planned changes my require another version.  Raising the neckline may require removing a little bit of length and I won't know unless I make it.  With luck, I will be able to reuse the majority of this muslin. 

As always, Seamwork is a subscription pattern service.  You can purchase monthly subscription or a yearly subscription.  If you use my Seamwork link, you can get $3.00 off your subscription and I will get a small benefit also. 

Hope you find this information useful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Jacket

Here's is a lovely jacket to consider.  In the right color, this type of jacket could work year round.

This is the Italian Pima Cotton Bi-Stretch Pascal Jacket by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $648.00.  Details:  a-line silhouette, shirt collar, long sleeves, button closure, patch and welt pockets, pick stitch and top stitch detail, hip length. 

I know the color of this jacket is what drew in.  I love the color.  This looks like an aqua to me but it is called jade.  It's a fun color. 

I wouldn't feel comfortable paying so much for a jacket but I would make one and actually have the following jacket planned:

This is the Seamwork Rhett pattern.  It is a work-inspired chore coat.  Doesn't it look a lot like the inspiration photo.  It's missing a few seams but other than that it's pretty close.  This pattern is available either through a subscription or individually.

The line drawings really show what you with the pattern.

About Seamwork - Seamwork is a subscription service either monthly or yearly.  If you use one of the Seamwork links to purchase a subscription you will get $3.00 off.  I also will get a small benefit.

Hope you're inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Sewing!

Weekly Timeless Wardrobe, Week 51

Week 51 of the Weekly Timeless Wardrobe have arrived.  You can find Week 51 here.  The introduction chart is always a good place to start if you are just now bumping into this series.  Note: as the series progresses, the chart changes a wee bit.  It should be shown on the weekly posting at the bottom.

Week 51 is a light neutral shorts or capris.  As usually, if shorts or capris aren't part of your wardrobe then make it pants or a skirt.  Don't forget to consider the second layer from Week 50.  This will help with the coordination of your wardrobe.  Here's some items to consider:

This is the line drawing for the Seamwork Dorian shorts.  Seamwork is a pattern subscription service or you can purchase the pattern individually.  By using the provided Seamwork link, you can get $3.00 off your subscription and I will get a small benefit at no additional cost to you.  Check it out.  There is a lot going on once you're a member.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Transitional Cardigan

It won't be long before the seasons start changing again and having a go-to cardigan will be necessary.  Personally, I've been wearing a lot of sleeveless items and having a cardigan available is necessary when you go into shops and medical facilities.  Here's the inspiration photo:

This is the Nic & Zoe Saratoga Cardigan.  Price tag: $178.00. Details - mid-weight, 3/4 sleeves, open front, sits at hip, 24" long.  To me, this also looks like a ribbon on on the hems.  Doesn't it fit the model beautifully?

I'm not willing to spend that much on a cardigan even as beautiful as this one.  Here's an option: 

This is Pamela's Patterns Cool Cardigan Banded Front. This is fairly close to the silhouette of the inspiration pattern.  There are other cardigan patterns at this website also.

Hope your inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Weekly Timeless Wardrobe, Week 50

Week 50 of the Weekly Timeless Wardrobe have arrived.  You can find Week 50 here.  The introduction chart is always a good place to start if you are just now bumping into this series.  Note: as the series progresses, the chart changes a wee bit.  It should be shown on the weekly posting at the bottom.

Week 50 is a light weight second layer.  This could be a long sleeve shirt, a cardigan, a wrap.  You get to choose.  This is a good time to perhaps look ahead a little bit at what you may want for the next season.  Here's a few ideas:

This is the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  As the name implies, this is a classic button-up shirt pattern but with a little twist.  It has cup sizing which for some can be a wonderful addition to a pattern. 

This is Seamwork Flor pattern.  It is a wrap cardigan that comes in two lengths.  In the right fabric, this could be a perfect item to keep in the car.  Seamwork is a subscription service but you can purchase this pattern separately.  I am an affiliate of Seamwork and if you purchase a subscription through the Seamwork links you will get a $3.00 discount and I will get a small benefit at no additional cost to you.  

Some additional ideas can be found here on a previous post on this subject.  

So, how is your wardrobe turning out?  Have you learned anything from this process?  Something that I have learned is that things don't always work out the way you think that this will.  It was surprising to me whenever I took the items from the 13 weeks and put them together, that they didn't always look great together but somehow I manage to get dressed every day.  Just a couple more weeks and this series will be over.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Blue Tank...

When I decided to make the Seamwork Dorian Pant, I knew that I would need to make a top to go with the pants.  You can see my version of the pants here.  I found this fabric at fabric dot com:

This is the Kaufman Sophia Washed Lawn in deep royal.  It is a perfect match for my pants.  I missed the fact that is was only a hair over 1 1/2 oz per yard.  I was happy that I ordered 1 1/2 yards and had enough fabric to double cut the tank.  I used this pattern:

Here is a link to the pattern - Phoebe Linen Tank.  It is a free pattern and you need to be registered to download it.  You can see the muslin here and the finished tanks here.  This pattern has kinda turned into a TNT for me.   Here's the finished tank with the Dorian pants:

The tank doesn't fit as well as I would have hoped.  At least, I don't think it fits as well as the first tanks that I made.  This was a learning experience as I have never had to cut two layers to make a top feel comfortable.  I'm hoping it will become "love to wear" item for this summer.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Flannel Pants

High waisted pants are coming back into style.  At first, I was not so sure but I am falling right in line.  Here is a look at some pants for fall / winter:

These are Stretch Flannel Cuffed Pants by Giorgio Armani.  Price tag: $1095.00.  Details:  high rise, flat front, side pockets, back welt pockets, straight legs, full length, cuffed hem, button / zip fly, and belt loops.  For a closer look, look at the Neiman Marcus website.

If you can find a classic pattern from the 80s or 90s, you will have it made as all the details will be in the pant.  If not, you will have to add a few details to the your patterns.  Here is a pattern to consider:

This is Silhouette Patterns #3200 Sally's Pant.  It is a basic pant pattern.  I think it would work for the inspiration pattern by adding pockets, belt loops, and cuffs.

I was unable to locate a photo but Mary Ellen Flury of SewPro patterns has a pattern #100 which is for a classic pant.

Hope your inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Weekly Timeless Wardrobe, Week 49

Week 49 of the Weekly Timeless Wardrobe have arrived.  You can find Week 49 here.  The introduction chart is always a good place to start if you are just now bumping into this series.  Note: as the series progresses, the chart changes a wee bit.  It should be shown on the weekly posting at the bottom.

Week 49 is a print or textured warm weather top.  The most important part of this is you should love this top. This top should go with a least one of your neutrals.  This is the time to add a little fun.  Here's something to think about:

This is Vogue 1701.  This top pattern is with and without sleeves.  It has an interesting collar.  

This is V1705.  It's a knit top with a bonus skirt.  The top is short or long sleeved. 

This is Butterick 6767.  This is a nice wrap with sleeve variations and options for ruffles at the neckline.

This is Butterick 6770.  This is a v-neck top with sleeve variations and a sash.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Seamwork Dorian Pant...

It has been a long time since I made a pair of pants between pajama pants and I think that I am going to like these.  This is the Seamwork Dorian Pant:

The fabric is from The Confident Stitch and you can read about my impromptu purchase here.  By following that link, you can see that my original plan for the fabric had changed.  I didn't order quite enough fabric.  So, I had to find another pattern that would work for the yardage that I had.  The Seamwork Dorian Pant pattern was the perfect option for this pattern.  The pattern is a members only variation.

The Confident Stitch has lots of linen available.  Here is a direct link to the linen page.  There are several linens appropriate for pants.  I really like the Kaufman Essex Yarn-Dyed Linen.  I will be using it again in the future for more projects.  Just remember to order a little extra for shrinkage if you intend to wash and dry the finished item.  Thank you The Confident Stitch for the great deal on the fabric!

Am I the only one who is dying for a haircut?  My curls get crazier every day.

On to the next project.

Happy Stitching!
(Affiliate links included.  Should you use a link to purchase, I will get a small reimbursement.)

Weekly Timeless Wardrobe, Week 48

Week 48 of the Weekly Timeless Wardrobe have arrived.  You can find Week 48 here.  The introduction chart is always a good place to start if you are just now bumping into this series.  Note: as the series progresses, the chart changes a wee bit.  It should be shown on the weekly posting at the bottom.

Week 48 is a neutral print or patterned top.  Like last week, this can be any top your interested in adding - tank top, sleeveless top, button down, etc.  Time to look for great fabric to go along with those patterns that hopefully you have already fitted. 

You really should go check out the post this week.  The first top shown is really interesting.  It is not particularly expensive.  To me, it looks like a sleeveless shell.  Here's an idea for replicating:

This is the Silhouettes Sweater Set.  The sleeveless shell would be perfect for recreating.  Change would be add a seam down the center front.  Stitch the seam to wear you would be comfortable wearing it and make sure all the edges are covered with some type of tape.

Of course, I would use whatever pattern that I had alright fitted for this project. I would rather spend the money on the fabric than the pattern.

Just for more weeks of this series.  How have you done?  Did you get bored with following along or has it been helpful?  I found that I thought I was doing well but when I put the pieces together at the end of each quarter it was not as good of a mix as I would have preferred.  However, I think this is a learning process.  If like me you are use to purchasing individual pieces and hoping for the best, this has been an eye opener.

Happy Stitching!

Dorian Pant Muslin...

This is my first Seamwork pant pattern.  I'm not sure what I expected to see with the Dorian muslin but I was pleasantly surprised.  Here's the pant made up straight from the pattern without the details:

Sorry for the belly shot but I have to be able to see the pant.  The front looks pretty good.

I see a tad of wrinkling under the seat.  I know how the fix that.

Now, I am starting see a couple of issues.  I can see pulling from the back to the front.

A little more pulling.

The changes I am going to make are:

1.  a small little dart across the seat,
2.  add a little bit of width to the front of the pant.

Here's the revisions:

Front still looks fairly good.  I took the front seam from 5/8" to 1/2" giving me an additional 1/2" across the front.

That tiny little dart (1/2" total) across the seat was all I needed to get the wrinkles to disappear.  I couldn't be happier with that.

Left side, I'm still seeing a tiny bit of pulling.  I will need to decide whether or not I can live with it.

Right side, still seeing a tiny bit of pulling.  I will need to decide whether or not I can live with it.

Overall, I really couldn't be happier with these pants.  Frankly, I would have purchased them if I had found a pair of pants that fit that well.

Happy Stitching!

PS...After looking closer at the pictures, I will add a little bit more width to the front.