Wednesday, July 29, 2020

Seamwork Bertie Muslin Part 1...

Way back in February, I posted about purchasing fabrics for specific projects.  I'm just now getting to the Bertie project.  In February, I wanted to make short sleeves.  I've decided to change that up a bit.  I'm still making Bertie:


However the change will be that I'm making the member bonus with the 3/4 length sleeves with cuffs.  This will make the dress wearable for the upcoming seasons.  Use can see this variation in Seamwork Magazine issue #63 here.

To really get a feel for this pattern, I had to do more detail stitching than I normally would with a muslin.  Here's my shortened version:


The front isn't bad. You can see that I need more space for the bust.  I just need to decide how I'm going to go about adding it.  The "V" is much lower than I want to wear so I will need to figure out the neckline and get it trued. 


 The left side view really starts showing issues.  Definitely need a larger dart.  Might have to add a bit of belly room also.  It also looks like there is too much in the back.  I may need to add a high round back alteration.  I will have to wear the muslin around the house to see about that.  The sleeves appear to fit fairly well.  I didn't feel any tightness.


This view actually shows that the neckline is pulled down and the seams are pulling back.  I can do a quick check on this by adding a piece of maybe an 1 or 1 1/2 down from the neckline.  Until that is resolved, I don't think I can correct anything else.  Generally when I start messing with the shoulder area, I need to remove it at the waist.  That may not be the case with this dress.  I was unable to find a a picture of the back of the this garment in my size range.

I like to do only one muslin per garment but the planned changes my require another version.  Raising the neckline may require removing a little bit of length and I won't know unless I make it.  With luck, I will be able to reuse the majority of this muslin. 

As always, Seamwork is a subscription pattern service.  You can purchase monthly subscription or a yearly subscription.  If you use my Seamwork link, you can get $3.00 off your subscription and I will get a small benefit also. 

Hope you find this information useful.

Happy Stitching!

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