Removing Shoulder Pad From a Blouse Pattern...

Recently, I was working on a blouse from the 90s.  It called for a 5/8" shoulder pad.  I didn't want a shoulder pad so following is how I went about removing the shoulder pad from the pattern pieces.  Let's start with the sleeve:

Here I have traced the sleeve that I want to use.  Knowing that I needed to remove the 5/8" shoulder pad, I used a 6"x 24" ruler (affiliate link) to draw the lines across the cap.  Note that I drew them above the notches but low enough that I could use the straight of grain marking as a guide.  The lines are 5/8" apart. 

Here I cut out the bottom potion of the sleeve.  Leaving the top portion uncut just in case I need some of the extra pattern paper.  I creased the top line and folded it down to the bottom line. 

Using a design curve (affiliate link), I redrew the curve of the sleeve cap.   I started just above the notch area and rotated the curve until it met the original line above the fold line on the cap.  This is to create a smooth line.

Here's the sleeve without the curve in the way.

Finished sleeve with the fold line taped down and the top portion cut out.   This is the same alteration that you would use anytime that you are reducing the length of a bodice above the notches on the armscye.  That modification can also be known a petite alteration.

Here's the front/back bodice:

Here's the front and the back pattern pieces.  I have marked where the 1/2" seam is on the sleeve and the 5/8" down from the shoulder seam at the sleeve seam line.  Here's a close up of the changes:

So this shows the changes to the shoulder seam.  Basically, you remove the needed about at the armscye to nothing at the neckline.   This is the same alteration that you would use to change the slope of the shoulder.  Remember that seam is really just a sewn dart.

The two rulers that I mentioned using above are really a necessity when you start making alterations to patterns.  Sometimes you can find that second hand a sales. 

Hope you find this helpful.

Happy Stitching!

Non-Slip Sewing Machine Foot Pedal Pad...

Do you have wood floors and have issues with the foot pedal for your machine(s) moving around?  I certainly do!  Sometimes, it feels like my legs aren't long enough to finish the task at hand.  I found this tutorial and thought it would work well in my sewing area.  Off to the Dollar General to get some shelf liner.  I did go cheap and get the $1 roll and it isn't exactly like the liner used in the tutorial but hopefully it will work.  Next, I measured the Juki pedal that I want the Pedal Pad for and added 2-inches to the width and about 6-inches to the length.  Here's the pattern piece:

Next, I calculated the amount of binding that I was going to need which was about 23-inches and cut 2" width bias strips along with a small piece for the padding on one end.  Here is the results:

Definitely not my best stitching but it will be will be under the table and not seen often.  If I like using this little peddle pad for the Juki, then I will create one for my Husqvarna also.

Happy Stitching!

Juki MO-1000...

My MO-1000 has finally made it's way home.  I was having the very common pedal issue where it runs without the pedal being depressed.  Mine was running full speed ahead as fast as it could go.  Since I was having other issues, I decided to take in for service rather just replacing the pedal.  Now, my needle threader works again and I have a new pedal.  I'm ready to go.  I haven't mentioned much about my serger since I got it 2 years ago.  You can find that post here.  Life changes did have me putting it away for a while. 

Since it's repaired now, I'm going to do some tutorials on the various feet that you can purchase for the machine.  Here are the feet that I have:

1.  Elastic Presser Foot
2.  Blind Stitch Presser Foot
3.  Cording Presser Foot
4.  Beading Presser Foot
5.  Gathering Presser Foot
6.  Piping Presser Foot
7.  Universal / Blind Stitch Presser Foot
8.  Curved Pearl Foot

You can find the 8-piece foot kit here.  The set does come with instructions for each foot.  You know that sometimes the instructions are so great.  I will be researching each foot and what type of applications can be done with each.  Hopefully, it will be a really good learning experience and I will be able to translate into my own sewing. 

So, following along with this series.  I will be posting as much as I can.  At this point, I'm thinking that it will be once a month.  I'll just have to decide how often.  I'm not sure about the beading and pearl feet but let's see what I information I can find.

Happy Stitching!

Tutorial - Narrow Back Adjustment:

This tutorial is how I made the narrow back adjustment for B6199 dress.  The information was found in the "Fast Fit" book.  The book stated that this alteration was for someone with an erect posture.  I'm not sure that this actually describes my posture but it seemed to work.

This is a dress work page from the "Sew/Fit Manual".

On the dress back, I have drawn a line where the waist would be on the pattern.  This is the line that goes through the waist dart from left to right.  I have also drawn a line from the waist marking to the shoulder.  This line should be outside of the waist/hip dart.

Here I have drawn a second on the armhole side of the line that was previously drawn from the waist to the shoulder.  The instructions from Fast Fit stated that this should be started at 1/2" and if you need more you can make changes in 1/4" increments.  These two lines will form a tuck in the pattern.

Although it is a little hard to tell, in this picture I have cut the waist line to the waist-to-shoulder mark closest to the waist/hip dart.

Here I have folded the pattern on the first drawn line from the waist-to-shoulder.

I have matched to the drawn lines in this picture.  Note, the drop in the slight shoulder line.

Next, it is time to start truing up the seams.  I used a cop of the original dress to do this part.  Yes, it does add the full weight of the tuck back at the waist but I didn't want to remove any width from below the waist.

Then I trued up the shoulder seam.

Here's the finished mini pattern.  This alteration worked fairly well for me.  I'm very happy with the dress that I made.

One last thing, note that the shoulder seam on the back is now at least 1/2" shorter than the front. No, you do not need to make an alteration to the front pattern piece.  They will ease together without any problem.  Just remember to put the front part with the feed dogs.

Happy Stitching!

How to make the pleat for a mock box pillow

This is one of the variations to making a mock box pillow:

Step 1. Start with corner and the right side up. You will need to calculate the depth of the corner. This 1/2 of the depth of the cushion + 1/2" seam allowance.
Step 2. Bring the two cut edges together and press. Now, measure along the cut the depth of the corner and pin. Clip 1/4" into the seam allowance at the pin.

Step 3. Fold at the pin or clip along the cut edge and press. Mark the corner on fold with a pin.

Step 4. Open up the fabric with the right side up.

Step 5. Take the outside press marks and fold into the inside press mark. Pin to hold fabric into place.

Step 6. Cut off fabric extension on the corner even with the fabric edge.

Step 7. Baste at the seam line. Repeat this process with the other seven corners.

Happy Sewing!

How to add a zipper to a pillow cover

This is a quick and easy way to put a zipper into a pillow:

Step 1. Finish the straight edges of the 2 pillow backs. It doesn't matter how if it's done with a zigzag or a serger. It could even be done with pinking shears. Whatever is available. I finish these edges so that they do not ravel in to the process of putting the pillow form into the pillow.

Step 2. Press the edges back. The picture above, the narrow piece has 1/2" fold and the larger piece has a 1" fold.

Step 3. Press, if necessary, and open the zipper. I am a big fan of wonder tape. It is 1/4" wide and sticky on both sides. Here I have applied it along the zipper tape using one of the threads for placement. Test that the zipper pull will pass by the tape without hitting it. (You don't have to use the Wonder Tape but it is a wonderful product.)

Step 4. Close the zipper and take the narrow piece of the pillow back. Carefully push the fabric to the zipper where you have applied the Wonder Tape. You want this to be as straight as possible. Check again that the zipper will open without bumping into the fabric. (If you have chosen not to use the Wonder tape, carefully baste your fabric to your zipper making sure it is straight.)

Step 5. Open the zipper and use the zipper foot as your guide by placing it along the edge of the fabric next to the zipper. Stitch. (Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of the positioning)

Step 6. Close your zipper. I always have a 1/4" overlap for the zipper. At this point, I apply more Wonder Tape to the zipper edge that was just sewn. (Again, you can baste if you don't want to use the Wonder Tape. Be carefully with your positioning).

Step 7. Apply the larger piece of the pillow back along where the Wonder Tape has been applied.

Step 8. Turn over the pillow back as your next row of stitching will be from the back. Position the fabric using the zipper foot as your guide along the edge of the zipper tape. Stitch. (If you basted the two pieces together using the zipper tape as a guide, stitch from the front stitching along basting.)

Step 9. Pillow back is complete and ready to add piping or ruffle and stitch to the front.

Feel free to ask any questions...

Happy Sewing!

Tutorial - How to draft and attach a pocket flap

This project started with me looking for information on creating a pocket flap and the actual placement of the flap above the pocket. I found information on drafting a pocket flap and sewing on the pocket flap but no information on where the pocket flap should be placed above the pocket. So, I looked at Men's RTW and this is what I came up with:



Above in pink is the original pocket pattern. I changed the top of the pocket to add a pocket facing and squared it off. You can also see the 1cm seam allowances.
Next, I checked the finished width of the pocket. I used this measurement + 1/4" for the width of the pocket flap. Yes on every RTW jacket I looked at, the flap was slightly larger. The depth was approximately 2" + (2) 1 cm seams. I also copied the curve of the pocket bottom on the flap.
Here are the results of my drafting. The pink is the actually size with the brown showing the seam allowances.
Here's the jacket front with the pockets sewn on. When completed the flap will cover the topstitching on the pocket.
Here I've sewn the two pocket flaps. Since I will be adding snaps, these will need a heavy interfacing.

Here I've added a buckram (it was the only stiff interfacing that I had in my stash). Since this interfacing is very stiff, I cut it without the seam allowance and hand stitched it to the flap.

Here's the flap turned and topstitched. I did two rows of top stitching.

I placed the flap raw edges approximately 1/4" above the finished edge of the pocket, centered so that there is a small overlap on each side (approximately 1/8"), and pin into place. Finished placement on RTW was general 1/2" to 3/4" above the finished pocket edge.

Here I stitched 1 cm seam. Remember to backstitch at the start and the finish. This seam will need to trimmed to approximately 1 /4" of the stitching line. Press this so the flap lays on the pocket.

Topstitch enclosing the seam. My pocket flap covers the topstitching on the pocket.


Finished product with the snaps in place.

Tutorial - How to make bias binding for piping.

There are a couple of ways to make bias binding and for the floor pillow project I used them both. Here is my preferred method of making the bias binding:















This is the fabric that was left over after making cutting out the pillow front and back. I was luck to have such a large piece to work with. I cut a piece that was approximately 20" x 30" and made sure that the corners are 90 degrees.















Here I'm getting ready to mark a 45 degree line on the fabric. For this particular project, I'm using a pencil. If this was for clothing, I would not use a pencil but chalk.















Here the line drawn on the fabric.















Here I have carefully cut down the drawn line.















Now, place the right sides of the edges together and stitch a 1/4" seam. Press the seam to the side.















Here is the results.















Here I've drawn the cutting lines using a straight edge. It's important to be very accurate here.















Now, offset the by one set of lines and pin matching the the drawn lines at a 1/4" seam line. Again, it is very important to match at the seam line. Also, pin at every line. Sew a 1/4" seam.















Here are the results of sewing. I haven't pressed the seam in this picture. I waited until I have cut out the bias strips. Cut out the strips and wrap around your cording and baste in place.















Here's the finished picture of the pillow with the bias piping on the edge. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of the bias strip or the cording upon completion.

I picked up this technique somewhere in a quilting class or a quilting book but it works for every situation that you need a woven bias binding.

Happy Sewing!