Saturday, October 25, 2008

Tutorial - How to draft and attach a pocket flap

This project started with me looking for information on creating a pocket flap and the actual placement of the flap above the pocket. I found information on drafting a pocket flap and sewing on the pocket flap but no information on where the pocket flap should be placed above the pocket. So, I looked at Men's RTW and this is what I came up with:

Above in pink is the original pocket pattern. I changed the top of the pocket to add a pocket facing and squared it off. You can also see the 1cm seam allowances.
Next, I checked the finished width of the pocket. I used this measurement + 1/4" for the width of the pocket flap. Yes on every RTW jacket I looked at, the flap was slightly larger. The depth was approximately 2" + (2) 1 cm seams. I also copied the curve of the pocket bottom on the flap.
Here are the results of my drafting. The pink is the actually size with the brown showing the seam allowances.
Here's the jacket front with the pockets sewn on. When completed the flap will cover the topstitching on the pocket.
Here I've sewn the two pocket flaps. Since I will be adding snaps, these will need a heavy interfacing.

Here I've added a buckram (it was the only stiff interfacing that I had in my stash). Since this interfacing is very stiff, I cut it without the seam allowance and hand stitched it to the flap.

Here's the flap turned and topstitched. I did two rows of top stitching.

I placed the flap raw edges approximately 1/4" above the finished edge of the pocket, centered so that there is a small overlap on each side (approximately 1/8"), and pin into place. Finished placement on RTW was general 1/2" to 3/4" above the finished pocket edge.

Here I stitched 1 cm seam. Remember to backstitch at the start and the finish. This seam will need to trimmed to approximately 1 /4" of the stitching line. Press this so the flap lays on the pocket.

Topstitch enclosing the seam. My pocket flap covers the topstitching on the pocket.

Finished product with the snaps in place.

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