Thursday, April 9, 2015

Tutorial - Narrow Back Adjustment:

This tutorial is how I made the narrow back adjustment for B6199 dress.  The information was found in the "Fast Fit" book.  The book stated that this alteration was for someone with an erect posture.  I'm not sure that this actually describes my posture but it seemed to work.


This is a dress work page from the "Sew/Fit Manual".


On the dress back, I have drawn a line where the waist would be on the pattern.  This is the line that goes through the waist dart from left to right.  I have also drawn a line from the waist marking to the shoulder.  This line should be outside of the waist/hip dart.


Here I have drawn a second on the armhole side of the line that was previously drawn from the waist to the shoulder.  The instructions from Fast Fit stated that this should be started at 1/2" and if you need more you can make changes in 1/4" increments.  These two lines will form a tuck in the pattern.


Although it is a little hard to tell, in this picture I have cut the waist line to the waist-to-shoulder mark closest to the waist/hip dart.


Here I have folded the pattern on the first drawn line from the waist-to-shoulder.


I have matched to the drawn lines in this picture.  Note, the drop in the slight shoulder line.


Next, it is time to start truing up the seams.  I used a cop of the original dress to do this part.  Yes, it does add the full weight of the tuck back at the waist but I didn't want to remove any width from below the waist.


Then I trued up the shoulder seam.


Here's the finished mini pattern.  This alteration worked fairly well for me.  I'm very happy with the dress that I made.

One last thing, note that the shoulder seam on the back is now at least 1/2" shorter than the front. No, you do not need to make an alteration to the front pattern piece.  They will ease together without any problem.  Just remember to put the front part with the feed dogs.

Happy Stitching!

4 comments:

  1. Hi, what issue were you having that made you need this alteration? I'm making a dress that zips up to the back of the neck, it fits fine every where except at the back of the neck - I have way too much fabric, causing the zipper to stand away from my body. Do you think this alteration would help that?

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    1. I'm sure the issue I was having was that there was too much fabric from side-to-side. I'm not an expert but the issue that you describe sounds like you may need more length for your back. Does the front of the garment feel like it's pulling back? Look up the alteration for a rounded back. Hope that helps.

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  2. Hi Darla, the very last sentence re; putting the front with the feed dogs. Do u mean as I am stitching the front and back together, the front side should be faced down on the machine to be pulled through by the feed dogs at a faster rate than the shorter back and it should be even when I get to the end off the seam? I just realized that I often have this problem when I sew front and back pieces that when I get to the end the garment front and back is uneven. Is this caused by the feed dogs and how the fabric is pulling one side vs the other?

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    1. Yes, I do mean that the feed dogs will assist with easing the two pieces together. If the longer piece is next the feed dogs, the feed dogs will ease to the next piece. One a long seam, you need to control the easing. This can be done by using a walking foot or using a method of holding the fabric as you. Check on youtube for the Janet Pray video.

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