Foz Top, Round Two...

 Here is the second Foz Top.  My first Foz Top which was suppose to be a wearable muslin did not wash well.  I found out that the pins I was using was not a good match to the fabric and resulted in holes all around the neckline.  So sad but the buttons were reused.  Here is the finished top:

This top fits differently than the previous version - here.   The neckline is not too low in this version.  It also seems a little snugger.

Here is the Dritz ball point needles that I purchased:

I think that I purchased these at Amazon.  There is not anywhere locally that I can purchase something that is this specialized.  Now, let's talk a little bit about my Bernette B77.  Here are the setting from the machine for the seams and the hem:

1.  Select light weight knits (#5) on the Creative Consultant.  Then, selected straight stitch (#1) on project type.  Click the green check mark.

2.  Change the stitch length to 4.0.

This results in the stretch stitch #11 being selected.  There are also a list of recommendations that you can use or not use.  This is the foot that was used:

This is the zigzag foot for the dual foot.  Notice the little button on the side of the foot.  It is an interesting little detail that I have not seen on a machine accessory before.  It is used to level the foot when you have areas that are unlevel.  As far as I can tell, this is close to using a hump jumper.  I did have the dual feed engaged through out this project.  Here is a look at the hem:

For the buttons, I returned to the Creative Consultant and repeated Step 1 above.  At Step 2, I selected buttonhole (#4).  Again, you will get a list of recommendations.  This resulted in the machine selecting buttonhole #53, a stretch buttonhole, for the project.  Here is a drawing of this buttonhole:

I had never used this type of buttonhole before but decided to go it.  Here are the results:

Also, I set up a stitching mark so that I would be able to get a reasonably straight seam.  The markings for inches is at the back of the plate and very hard to see when sewing.  Here is my set up:

Overall, I am very happy with this project.  I think there will be another long sleeved version of this top.  There is not anything more enjoyable than a quit project with great results.  Who knows, maybe I will address the fitting a little bit or maybe not.  

Happy Sewing!

Classic Buttondown Shirt...

 It seems that I did not post the results of the Classic Shirt muslin before moving on to the first version.  I think the changes were fairly small.  I increased the bust dart and shaped it.  That alteration added length to the front.  Reduced the length of the shirt body and sleeves by 1 1/2 inches.  I had a beautiful shirting that has been hanging out in the stash for a while.  So, I pulled it out to use.  Here are the results:

I used my Bernette B77 to make this shirt.  This is not the first project that I have made using this machine but it the most complicated one to date.  The feet on this machine do not have good markings on them.  It is easy enough to do topstitching on an outside edge but it is not so easy to get a good topstitch on the inside.  I ended up using this foot:

This is the B77 embroidery foot.  The blue line points at what I used to do edge stitching.  It made a stitch about 1/16-inch from the edge.  Perfect.  The red points points at another spot and it is 1/4-inch from the edge.  Here is a close up of the stitching:

Here is a picture of the inside topstitching:

The B77 makes a beautiful buttonhole.  This is an example of buttonhole #51which is a standard buttonhole:

I used the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  This pattern is very well drafted.  The instructions are well written.  I can see many of these shirts in the future.

Happy Stitching!

(Affiliate link included.  I receive a small commission should you purchase.)

Ottobre Design Magazines...

 Ottobre  Design had a black friday sale and of course, I had to purchase a couple of the woman's magazines.  Here is what I purchased:

Both issues are the fall/winter issues.  Guess I was not thinking of warmer weather when I was checking out the various woman issues.

These should keep me busy dreaming for a bit.  Did you purchase anything at the black friday sale?

Something New...

 I decide to try a fabric swatch service to reduce my need for additional fabric in the stash.  Will it work?  I do not know but I can hope.  In the 90s, I belonged to a couple of fabric swatch services and really enjoyed looking at the various fabrics.  I do not remember going overboard purchasing fabric.  Maybe I was more realistic about how much I would actually sew.  I seem to plan and purchase way more than I can actually produce.

So I looked at Vogue Fabric swatch service and Julie's Picks at Fabric Mart Fabrics.  The cost is basically the same between the two services.  One is monthly and the other is bi-monthly.  I decided to do the monthly Julie's Picks.  The first one just arrived:

It was so exciting to see this.  I have a few weeks for look and think.  There are some nice fabrics in this batch.  We will know next month if getting a swatch service helps any at all with purchases. I just checked an the membership is still open for 2022.  Hop on over and check it out.

Happy Sewing!

French Seams...

 Do you like french seams?  I used them all the time before I purchased my first serger in early 90s. Now, mostly for pillow cases.  French seams make the inside of a garment very neat.  

This type of seam does take a little more planning and a little more work.  They are easiest to make with a 5/8-inch seam but can be made with smaller seam width with care.  Here are a few resources for french seams:

1. Tutorial with both photo and video of how to make a french seam - here.

2. Tutorial on how to end a french seam above a vent - here.

Here is a tutorial for a pillowcase for some extra practice - here. This looks like a good tutorial but I prefer to add a separate cuff instead of hems.  Do what you like doing best.  

Happy Stitching!

More Fabric...

I do not need more fabric but here I am adding to the stash.  Here is the latest acquisitions:

This is a floral 100% rayon challis.  I ordered 3 1/2 yards for a skirt.  My intentions is to make the McCall's 8248 from this post.  This fabric is machine wash.

This is 100% cotton sateen.  I ordered 2 1/2 yards for a skirt.  Mostly like will be the same skirt pattern as above.  The fabric is machine washable.  

If you are wondering about wanting to make both patterns in the same patterns, it is a cute pattern and I really like it.  It makes sense to me to make more than one because of the time spent fitting.  This skirt may not require a lot of fitting but I know there will be length issues.  May as well make two and maximize the time spent fitting.

Happy Stitching!