Foz Muslin...

 I finally getting to the Foz pattern that I purchased in September. Post here.  I found a thin knit that was perfect for the muslin at Wal-mart and a burn test revealed that is was rayon.  Then, I had to decide on sizes.  I knew that I would need the full front for the pattern so after a bit of dithering I decide to go a straight 16 with a 20 armscye and sleeve.  Just so you know the recommended size was a 12 or 14.  I was using the finished measurements to determine what I wanted.  Let's see how I did:

The front is not too bad.  Yeah, there is a little bit of wrinkling in the bust area.  I think that is to be expected.  The V is a little bit lower than I would normally wear.  

I can see wrinkling on the right side.  The sleeve appears to fit well.  The shoulder could probably be a little bit narrower.  Maybe need a tad more width at the hip in the back.

Overall, I would say that this is not too bad. This is completely wearable.  Certainly not perfect but it is as good or better than anything I could possibly purchase.  I did have to purchase buttons for this and I think that snaps would be a perfect as a closure.  My snap collection did not contain black.  

The fabric was a bear to cut out but it stitched reasonably well.  My machine only balked at attempting topstitching around the neckline.  So, it did not get that finished bit.  

The Itch To Stitch Foz pattern is a great little pattern.  Although I am a very slow sewist, this pattern is reasonable fast.  I suspect that if you had a dedicated 3 or 4 hours and a serger, this could be whipped out in the time period or less. 

I do intend to make another version of this.  I just need to check the stash to see what is available.  I know there are some interesting knits sitting in the stash just waiting to be used.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful for yourself.

Happy Stitching!

(Post contains affiliate links.  If you purchase using my link, I would receive a small commission at no cost to you.)

New Pattern Release....

 Itch to Stitch has a new pattern that is right on target for fall trend:

This is the Varzim Overalls Digital Sewing Pattern.  This pattern is meant for a low stretch sweatshirt type fabric but a stretch woven would also work.  Be sure to check out the blog post so that you can see multiple versions made up in a variety of here.  This pattern is on sale through November 1, 2021.   

What do you think of a knit or stretch woven overalls?  

Happy Stitching!

(All links in this post are affiliate links.  Should you purchase anything from these links, I would receive a small commission at no cost to you.)

Vogue Winter Patterns...

 The Vogue Pattern winter collection was released today.  I did see a couple of patterns that I thought were interesting:

Vogue 1838 - Misses Capes.  I like the idea of a cape like view B.

Vogue 1844 - Misses Dress.  I love the styling on the dress.  I am not sure that lengthening this to the appropriate length for me would be the correct thing to do.  It might mess with the proportions of the dress.

Yep, that is it.  Overall, I was under whelmed and a bit confused.  It does not seem like a cohesive collection.  Almost like the direct is unknown.  Will people pay the $$$ for men's sweat pants or a robe?  I am not saying that there were not interesting aspects of the collection but it seemed to be lacking in wearability.  Maybe I am wrong. Maybe I am just craving the beautiful designs of yesteryear.

What are your thoughts of the collections?

Happy Stitching!

Flannel PJs...

 I selected the next Kwik Sew pattern to work on and pulled out two different flannels from the stash.  That is good stash reduction.  Here is the fabric:

This is a Snuggle Flannel from JoAnn's.  It is a cute fabric but narrow.  

The blue flannel has a fun message on it.  It has been in the stash forever.  The yardage is narrow so I will probably purchase a plain flannel to make the sleeves. 

Here is the pattern that I intend to use:

This is Kwik Sew 3353.  It is just a basic pajama pattern.  Perfect for lounging around. 

Here is the new pajamas:

I love the fit of both pair of jammies.  This pattern really is a good basic and fast when you use your serger.  It would be really easy to modify the pattern if you were interested in piping the edges.  There is nothing not to like with this pattern.

Happy Stitching!

Poncho Top...

I love the idea of the poncho tops.  It is an easy on/off item. When I saw this pattern from McCall's, I knew it would be the perfect item for my Mom who has congestive heart failure.  Here is the original post from my fall roundup.  Here is the pattern:

Now this item takes a lot of fabric.  The first version was view A in a recommended size of XL and a little short even for my 4'11" Mom.  The fabric used is from Joann Fabrics.  I was very disappointed in this fleece as it was described as a cabled fleece but it was really a printed fleece. It is still a color my Mom is very happy with.  Here is the first version on me:

As you can see this is really big.  It is actually the recommended size for me.  Just for reference, I'm 5'5".  If another version is made, I think we will be moving down a couple of sizes to a M.

I see versions of this in knitted cables all the time.  Everyone seems to love them.  I think I would like one of these for myself but the right fabric needs to be located.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Button Down Dress

 We are solidly in fall but this dress silhouette is fabulous.  I admit that I like a causal style and will need to reserve this idea for later.  

This is the Akris Button-Down Belted Silk Crepe Midi Dress.  Price tag: $2990. Details:  silk crepe, spread collar, button front, short sleeves, side slip pockets, adjustable belt, a-line silhouette, midi length, and side slits.  

This is Butterick 6702.  View C is very similar to the inspiration photo. It doesn't have the side slits like the inspiration but it looks like there is enough volume that it is not needed.  The hidden placket is also missing but you can follow these instructions to create that detail.  You would also need to add side pockets and shorten the sleeves.

Another alternative is to use your favorite fitted shirt pattern lengthen it to the correct length and adding the details that you want.  That way your money will go toward the fabric instead of the pattern.  Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Fabric and More Fabric...

 The fabric still keeps moving into sewing area.  As far this month, more is going out than coming in.  I purchased the following fabric this week:

This can be found at either fabric dot com or amazon.  I purchased 3 yards with the idea that I might make a knit dress.  It is a little light weight for that but the fabric could change when washed.  Washing instructions are wash cold/tumble dry low.

No pictures of the other fabrics.  They were walmart precut finds that I generally use for muslins. Both pieces are black.  One is a french terry and the other is a ribbed knit.  The precuts are 2 yard cuts each. 

Happy Stitching! 

Balance Lines and Pants...

 I spent more time playing with Simplicity pant pattern from this post.  Here is my pattern comparison:

This particular pattern already has the crotch line marked on the pattern.  This is what I used.  The front pattern piece is on the top.  If you look closely, you can see the crotch lines marked on both patterns.  You can also see that they are no where near each other.  When I measured the distance, it was 1 1/2-inches.  That seems like a lot.

Following the directions, I rotated the front pattern piece crotch line to match up with the back crotch line.  Doing that caused this to occur:

Rotating the front crotch line to meet the back crotch line resulted in the difference being moved to the leg.  If I understood, you are suppose to redraw both sets of legs by 50% of that difference.  Hmmm.  At this point, my thoughts are I am not sure about this.  Do I really want to redraft this pattern completely?  That is what it feels like I would be doing.  All before checking the various lengths.  Generally, I remove between 1 and 1 1/2"  around the upper hip and add it back at the waist.  If I changed that length after fixing the balance line, what does that do to the balance of the pattern?

I did draw a horizonal balance line at the hip and I will use the shorten/length line on the leg for the horizontal balance line on the leg.  I have also marked the knee on the pattern.  I am considering abandoning the fit book and draping the pant.  In fact I am heavily leaning in that direction.  I am thinking that I picked a "too hard" project to start that way of fixing a pattern or it could be that I am a lazy sewer.  Either way, I think I am going to go a head and drape this pattern in muslin and see what it looks like.  After I do the draping and return the changes to the pattern, I might look back at the balance and see how it looks then.  

I will keep you updated as I progress but I will be making a muslin of the pattern.  I just need to move forward so I might have some pants to wear.

Happy Stitching!

Sale!

 It is an Itch To Stitch birthday sale through October 11, 2021.  The Foz, Lagan, and Celeste are 20% off and all other patterns are 25%.  Use code 7BDAY.  There are lots of options here.  Go check out the various styles at Itch to Stitch.  Off to shop.  Who does not need more patterns?

All links are affiliate links.  I receive a small portion of the sale should you purchase anything at no cost to you. 

Happy Stitching!

Checking A New Pant Pattern....

 I recently picked up Simplicity 9376 and a new pattern fitting book.  Here is the pattern:

and here is the fitting book:

I bumped into the book via a mini pant pattern class and decided to purchase it.  It is available on Gina Renee Designs website.

Since I had just purchased these two items, I decided to check the balance of the pattern per the book.  I found a couple of things:

First, the pattern did not match from front to back.  You know that frustrating thing where the seamlines are different lengths.  I did check and the front inseam being 1/2" longer and that is okay.  

Second, the balance line at the crotch does not match.  When forcing a match with the crotch line, there is about an inch difference in the length.   

This sent me back to the pattern description which is that this pattern is a trouser.  The difference in the measurements according to the fitting book would indicate that this pant is intended to be skinny.  I need to study the book more to figure out what needs to be done to balance this pattern. I found this discussion on checking balance on a basic pant pattern at pattern review - https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/109367/1 .

Here are a few questions:

1.  Do you spend time to walk a pattern before cutting out?

2.  Have you ever checked the balance of a pants pattern or any other?  If so, how did it turn out?  

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Dress

 I am still poking around on the Lafayette 148 New York site and finding things that I love.  Here is dress that is perfectly simple:

This is the Graceton Dress in Finesse Crepe.  Price tag: $698.00. Details:  A-line silhouette, shirt collar, long sleeve, snap tab cuff, pullover, half-placket, seam pockets, above the knee.

I do not know if I am drawn to the color or the simple silhouette of this dress but I do know the perfect pattern:

This is the Galley Tunic + Dress pattern by Liesl & Co.  Go to the link and check out the varations.  The only changes that I can see would be length the sleeve(if choosing the 3/4 sleeve), create the snap tab, and straighten the hem.  Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Blouse Muslin...

 I recently purchased the Butterick 6855 from the Fall Pattern Roundup post - here.  Here is a pattern view:

View C is the one that I would like.  I found some inexpensive drapey fabric at Walmart to use.  Here is the fabric:

As you can see it is very sheer.  Here is the muslin made:

Front view - it is not too bad.  The v is a little low and the sleeves are too long.  It could also be that it is too wide in the shoulders.

Again, not too bad.  I wish I could figure out the funkiness at the back of the shoulder.  However fitting of this area is very limited.  I did purchase a class on sleeves and fitting sleeves to the armsyce but it has not helped any.

The back fits fairly nicely.  Again, you can see a bit of funkiness around the top of the sleeve on both sides.  Funny that it looks the same with arm down versus the arm holding the camera.  

The right side looks fairly good.  A little bit of gathering at the bustline but I do not see anything indicating that I need some space a the bust.  I think I will ignore that.  Some of these little issues could very well be the tank that I have under the blouse.

Things that definitely need to be addressed:

1.  The neckline being too low.

2.  Sleeve length.  This could be a little of both the shoulder being wide and the sleeve being long.  Just need a closer look at the shoulder/sleeve again.

Even with the funkiness around the top of the sleeve, the blouse is not uncomfortable.  Different fabric may not show as much or it could be some other issue that I do not about yet.  If you have ideas on the sleeve head issues, please let me know.  

Happy Stitching!