Monday, October 12, 2020

Inspiration...Popover Top

 I rarely find a top that I want to purchase.  This one is it.


This is the Covered Button Popover Top by Ann Taylor.  Price tag: $79.50.  Details: Split Neck, long sleeves with cuffs, button front, relaxed fit, gathered shoulder, gathered back yoke, 25 1/4" long.

I was unable to locate a similar pattern.  However if you are the creative type, you could probably take an existing pattern and recreate the look.  


Friday, October 9, 2020

Inspiration...Midi Skirt

 I really like that the midi skirt is returning.  This is such a good style of skirt.  Here's a lovely skirt with interesting details:


This is the Aurelie Midi Skirt by Skye.  Price tag: $165.00.  Details:  aline, vertical pleats, back elastic waist, high waist, length for a size small is 34.4".  Here's a close up of the pocket detail:


Notice the pleating is actual part of the pocket detail.  Love this detail.

Folks, I was unable to locate a pattern with the trouser styling and a back waist.  The closest that I could find is this pattern:



This is My Basic Jean Skirt pattern from Silhouette Patterns.  This will only give you the trouser details for the front of the skirt. Note that this isn't high-waisted.  Adding the pleats are probably the easiest thing to do here.   Here are the steps I would use:

1.  Trace pattern.
2.   Decide on added length and sweep of the skirt.
3.   Decide where the three pleats should be and how wide.
4.   Draw the line from the pocket to the hem where the pleats are indicated.
5.   Draw three sets of parallel lines the Length of the skirt and width apart that was determined in #3.
6.   Cut the one of line drawn in #4 and add one of the set of the parallel lines.  Repeat for each pleat.  

Hope that makes sense.  Now, I don't know if this will create the interesting pocket line or not.  It would definitely take some playing.  

Friends if you know of a pattern that is closer to the inspiration picture, let me know and I will add it to the post.

Update: I have located another skirt pattern that may indeed work.  Here is the line drawing:

This is the Blandine Skirt pattern by Republique du Chiffon.  What do you think?


Happy Stitching!


Wednesday, October 7, 2020

Seamwork Bertie... It's Done...

 Whew!  I really didn't think this dress was going to get finished but it did and here is a hanger view:


I think I am going to really like this dress.  Yes, the fabric wasn't the color that I thought I was getting but I think it turned out very nice.  I had more issues with this dress that I ever thought was possible.

I started this dress at the end of July.  You can find the posts on the muslins  - Muslin 1 and Muslin 2.  There are a fairly long list of changes to the pattern:

1.  Raised the neckline by 2 inches and corrected the neckline.

2  Added a dart which lengthened the bodice by 1 1/2".

3.  Added an inch to the length.

4.  Added a rounded back adjustment.

5.  Respaced the buttonholes/buttons because of the added length to the bodice.

One of these changes will cause me grieve later and I will explain.  

At the end of the last Bertie post, I was ready to go.  I made all the changes to the pattern (I thought) and cut it out.  I got the bodice stitched, the neckline done, the sleeves in, and then I hit the first snag.  I did not have the braided elastic called for in the pattern.  I attempted to use a knit elastic.  NOPE.  The knit elastic would not work.  So, I started looking for braided elastic in the correct width.  Folks, narrow width elastic is not easy to find.  I finally found some at Nancy Zieman Productions.  This site also had some other items I had been looking for so it turned out good.

Then, I fell into a sewing slump and didn't sew for a couple of weeks.  Yeah, not the right time for that to happen.  I finally made myself get with it.  The right kind of elastic was perfect and got the dress hemmed.  The button bands was the last thing to do.  Here is where I missed a change on the pattern - the button band.  I had added the 2-inch at the top and the 1-inch, but I missed the 1 1/2-inch change of the bodice.  My button band did not fit the dress.  Luckily, I had enough fabric to recut the band.  Yeah, the dress is all done except for the buttonholes and buttons.  The respacing meant that I was going to use every button that I had purchased.  Shell buttons can be fragile and you know I broke one taking off the package.  Another delay!  So the next opportunity that I got to go to JoAnn Fabrics, I was hopefully that there would be more shell buttons but I had purchased all the shell buttons in that size the last time I was there.  Much to my surprise, the buttons were there.

A few days later, I return to working on the dress.  Because of earlier mistakes, I was able to create a button band to practice making buttonholes.  Sewing button holes on the rayon twill turned out to be an adventure all by itself.  I ended up using a folded piece of the rayon twill under the right side of the pressure foot.  This was the only way that I could get the buttonholes even remotely straight and I had to make 15 buttonholes.  These are the ugliest buttonholes I have ever made but they are functional and I will be the only person who really knows.  Do not say anything if you see me in the dress.  

If I have enough fabric left, I intended to make a matching tie belt.  I do think the dress needs it.  I am also unsure of what type of shoe to wear this.  When I have time with the photographer, maybe I will try a couple of different shoe types and post it.

In conclusion, this is not a beginner pattern at all.  It is marked as a beginner intermediate.  If you were just stitching, maybe that is the correct rating but if you have to do any fitting it is not.  For me, the neckline sat right on top of the edge of my bra.  That is too low and wide for me.  The fact that the dress has to be made entirely before any fitting can happen makes if difficult also.  I don't know if I will make this again.  I feel like I should make a version in chambray for summer but who knows what size I will be next summer.  Besides, there are lots of other patterns to stitch.

Happy Stitching!

Tuesday, October 6, 2020

Buying Spree...

 I just can't help myself.  Change of season needs new fabric.  Let's hope I don't purchase too much more.  Here's my latest acquisitions:


This is a Telio sweater knit.  I intend to make a boxy top using this pattern:


This is the Cowl Top pattern by Loes Hinse Design.  It's an oldie but goodie.  I haven't decided yet whether I'm actually going to put the cowl on or not.  It will depend on the fabric.


This is an inexpensive knit to use an a muslin for this pattern:


This is the Love Notions Duet Trousers pattern.  I'm hoping that I can get this pant to fit rather quickly.  It is meant for both stretch woven and knits.  All of the remaining fabrics are intended for this pattern. 


This is a navy ponte de roma.  It is a polyester, rayon, lycra blend.  I'm hoping it's the correct weight for pants.  It said that it was a medium weight fabric.


This is a grey ponte de roma.  It is a polyester, rayon, lycra blend.  It is a heavier fabric than the navy ponte above.  


This is a charcoal grey suiting.  It is a rayon, nylon, polyester, lycra blend.  It's the only woven that I purchased today but it is intended for the same pattern.  Hopefully, I can locate an inexpensive source of stretch woven that will work for the muslin on this one.

I do have other pant patterns but it is so hard getting them fitted that I want to make it worth my time to do the fitting.  I seem to always plan way more than I can actually sew.  Let's see where this goes.

Happy Stitching!


Monday, October 5, 2020

Inspiration...Funnel Neck Box Top

 Fall is here.  It is really time to think about cool weather clothes.  This top would be perfect:


This is the Eileen Fisher Diagonal Striped Funnel Neck Box Top.  Price tag: $278.00.  Details:  High neckline, long sleeves, boxy silhouette, pullover style, 22" long from shoulder to hem.

This type of top could be a real day-to-day, live-in top.  My first thought of pattern was this one:

This is Seamwork Ace funnel neck top pattern.  For me, this pattern is a little bit fitted.  However, you could go up a size for a less fitted look.  Seamwork is a subscription service.  You can purchase yearly, monthly, or individual patterns. Following the Seamwork link will give you $3.00 off and I will get a small benefit also.

Here's a couple of additional options:



This is The Toaster Sweaters pattern by Seven House Seven.  The sweater on the right is much like the inspiration pattern. 


This is Simplicity 8529.  It is also a design by Seven House Seven and very similar to the Toaster Sweater.

Now, you have a few options for making a similar top.  Hope you're inspired to create something beautiful.  By the way, if you have a similar top already in your pattern stash use it.  Save those dollars for the fabric.

Happy Stitching!