Willow Tank - 1st Muslin...

 Following last week's measuring session, I have cut out and stitched a muslin of the Willow Tank.  I am pleasantly surprised.  The fit was not too bad but I would say I mismeasured on the armhole depth because it is really tight. Making a mistake on the first length measurement has repercussions all the down the garment.  Here are the photos:

As expected, there are depth issues. The bust dart needs to be a bit larger.  You can see the diagonals wrinkles going from the bust to the hem.  The bust dart is actually a little too high which is partially due to the armhole depth being too small.  It could also be an bra issue as I have a different bra on now verses when I did the measurements.

Now you can really see the depths issues with the cup sizing and the dart being too high.  I can also see an ever so slight indication that I need a little more space for my back.  A small high round back alteration.  

Mostly the same issues are the left side.

You can see the issue with the armhole depth here.  The arnscye is really tight in the back.  As far as the wrinkling in the back.  I am going to leave it for now.   When I open the side seams for the draping of the dart, it may show I need more circumference.  

Changes that I will do on this muslin:

    1.  Insert 1/2" of fabric for armhole height.

    2.  Drape dart.

    3.  May add a high round back adjustment.

    4.  Double check circumference at hip.  I do not think that I actually did this when I was measuring.  

Hopefully, I can get back to this quickly.  My mom is moving to an apartment very soon and I seem to be the main packer.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Shirtdress

 Spring is coming and shirtdresses are still hanging on.  Here is an interesting one:

This is the Akris Punto Striped Cinched-Waist Cotton Popeline Shirtdress.  Price tag: $1290.00.  Details: spread collar, concealed front placket, long sleeves, button cuffs, drawstring cinched waist, side pockets, a-line silhouette, knee length, side split hem.  Model is 5'10".  Dress found at Neiman Marcus.

Things that I like about this dress is the stripe and the cinched waist.  This type of dress would be a great every day dress.  I am not sure that I would go to the effort to do the concealed placket.  Directions for a concealed placket here.

For me this is an easy pick on the pattern.  I would use this pattern:

This is the Liesl + Co. Classic Shirt pattern (affiliate link).  This is about as classic as you can get for a button-down.  Changes that I would make are lengthen the pattern, consider the hidden placket, add side pockets, create the a-line silhouette.  Other decisions might be sleeve length.  If it was made short sleeve or sleeveless, you could add a cardigan for early spring and have something that you could possibly wear through fall. 

This pattern is a good option for me as I have already fitted the pattern.  If you already have a shirt pattern fitted, use it.  Save those bucks for more fabric. 

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Happy Stitching!

Another Pattern...

 Try as I might, I am stilling purchasing patterns.  I will admit that the purchasing has slowed down.  Here is the latest pattern that I could not live without:

This looks like the perfect trouser pattern.  For those who sew for their guys, there is a pdf version for men.  This is the first paper pattern that I have purchased online in a while and the shipping costs shocked me.  

I hope that I can get to this pant fairly soon.  I do have a lot on my plate right now but I squeeze in some type of sewing activity as often as I can.  I would really like some better fitting trouser style pants for this summer.  The ones that I purchased last year will most likely be too big as I have lost weight and they were already on the loose side.

Happy Stitching!

Starting The Project List...The Willow Tank

 Today, I started working on my Project List.  I have started with the Willow Tank pattern by Grainline Studio.  I started here because I have space to work it instead of one of the larger projects.  Here is a view of the Willow Tank:

I purchased this pattern a couple of years ago thinking I would make some new tanks for the following summer.  Did not happen.  

I traced a size 18 and I am now checking the lengths on the pattern.  I know that there will be depth issues because this pattern is drafted for a B cup but that will easily be taken care of once I have a muslin made.  Well, I actually traced the pattern last summer or fall and it seems that I have lost weight which has resulted in needing a size 16 instead of the size 18.  It is a shocker.

Now, repeating the same exercise with the size 16 instead of the size 18.  Here is the pattern pieces with marking at the bust, armhole, waist, hip, and marking for making lengths changes:

Now, the interesting part happening.  I started measuring and was very surprised.  I knew that I was short between high bust and shoulder but was surprised to see how much.  I knew that my torso was long.  Here is the changed pattern:

I reduced the length of the upper torso through the armscye by 1 1/2 inches.  That is a lot.  I added 3/4-inch above the bust and 2-inches above the waist.  All I can say is wow.  

This is an experiment on part.  I have never been one to change the pattern before making a muslin.  I am following along with Katrina in Lifting Pins and Needles on the Let's Sew Our Best Fitting Woven Top Series.  Check it out.  

Next, I will make a muslin and see how it looks.  My muslins are almost always snipped and tucked.  I do expect to increase the dart.  I generally do this with the muslin and then make the changes to the pattern.  I will see if doing the length changes a head of time make short work of the muslin.  

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Happy Stitching!

Could Not Resist....

 I have been working hard at not increasing the size of my stash both fabric and pattern. However earlier in the month I did an inspiration post that I really loved the dress and the pattern was perfect for duplicating the dress.  This is actually a rarity to find but it does occasionally happen.  JoAnn's was having a pattern sale so I picked up this pattern:

 Here is the line drawing:

My thoughts is a sleeveless version with the V-neckline just like the inspiration photo.  Now, I just need to locate some fabric that will be appropriate.  You know that the fabric needed is not in the stash because that is how the new and shiny is.

If the right fabric is picked, this could go from May to September.  The last 4 years I have had most everything be sleeveless and just add a cardigan or wrap if needed.  I can not tolerate the heat any more.

Happy Stitching!