Classic Shirt Muslin, Round 2

 The Classic Shirt is getting a bit closer.  In the last post, I gave myself homework.  The first item was to move the bust dart down.  I accomplished this by slicing the shirt and inserting fabric.  It turned out that this was not necessary.  If you look at the post, I did state that this was an unusual alteration for me.  Turns out to be a bra issue.   The second item was that I increased the size of the dart.  I increase was 1/4" removing 1/2" in length on the side.  This seemed to work.  I also curved the dart.  Here are the results with the sleeves added:

Front with the sleeves.  The shoulders still fit well.  The darts look high here but I suspect that again it is a bra issue.  You can also see that the alteration that I had made to lower the dart.  Here it is closed.

Here is the left side.  I can still see a little of issues here but I think I am not going to make any additional changes here.  The sleeve is tight.  I am going to recut the sleeve to the next size and transfer the armscye changes to the shirt.  This is how RTW shirts fit me.

Here is the back.  I am happy with the fit of the back.  There is no tightness.

Here is the right side.  The dart looks good.  The sleeve on the right side is tight but not as tight as the left side.  

I will continue with this muslin base.  Here is my homework:

1.  Remove side seams and sleeve from muslin body.

2.  Trace a larger sleeve, and cut out the sleeve and cuffs.

3. Modify the existing shirt pattern to make armscye match the larger sleeve.  

In looking at the picture, I can see that the shirt is overall too long. Even though the picture does not show a hem, a 1/2" hem is not going to make much difference.  The hem length is more like a tunic length on me.

This is a lot to do but with any luck I can get it done quickly. I really would like a shirt or two for fall and winter this year.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Long-Sleeved Day Dress

 Fall is not here yet but there are signs showing that it is coming.  A little sewing now can prepare us for the cooler weather.  Here is a fabulous dress that I found:

This is Floral Long-Sleeve Day Dress by Polo Ralph Lauren.  Price tag: $498.00. Details:  Floral print, ruffled trimmed spread collar, long sleeves with ruffled trimmed three button cuffs, button from with ruffle trim, mother of pearl buttons, tiered skirt, a-line silhouette, front and back shaping darts, viscose, dry clean, 50" long with model being 5'10".

With the exception of the price tag, there are a lot things to love about this dress.  There are a ton of ruffles which would take a lot of time to make.  It is a very feminine style.  The tiers make it a little more modern.  It reminds me of the 80s.

I am not even going to try to look for a pattern on this one.  I think it is going to be pattern hacking all the way.  I think I would start with a shirt pattern that I have already fitted.  Note that this dress appears to be fitted at the waist.  Then add the skirt with the tiers.  My guess is those tiers are 1 to 1 1/2.  The ruffles on the collars, cuffs, and button band look to be 1 to 2.  

Happy Stitching!

Forgotten Fashion Designers...

 Last week, I did an inspiration post on a wrap coat. You can view the post here.  A reader gave information on Bonnie Cashin Noh Coat from Threads #31 Oct/Nov 1990.  This lead me down the rabbit hole of "Who was Bonnie Cashin?".

Turns out Bonnie Cashin is someone we should recognize.  According to this article here, she is the the creator of American Sportswear.  What?  I think I thought that was attributed to Ralph Lauren.  Then, I found another article here, this article shows pictures of Bonnie's work along with pictures of identical items today being sold by designers.  Wouldn't that make her designs timeless?  

On the wikipedia page, it states that she was the first designer for Coach.  It also states that she designed for many other companies.  She also designed patterns for home sewers and I was able to locate one.  It can be seen here at the Vintage Sewing Patterns site.  The Met Museum has a collection of Bonnie Cashin designs - here.  Many items from the collection could easily be worn today.

I have no doubt that there is more material regarding this designer.  It really is interesting to see and learn a little bit about this designer.  Maybe some day I will get to return to the Met and will be able to see the creations in person.

Happy Stitching! 

Inspiration...Lunbar Pillow

 With the exception of Christmas, I do not decorate for holidays.  However I love the idea of using pillow covers to bring in the season. Here is a perfect one for Thanksgiving:

This is a pillow cover from Pottery Barn. Price tag: $69.50.  Details:  100% yarn dyed cotton, 14" x 36", machine washable.

It does not take much to recreate this - 1 1/4 yard of fabric and some seam tape.  Honestly, I would most likely purchase 1 1/2 yards so there is a bit of room for cutting errors and shrinkage.  I always use 1/2" seams on home dec items so the measurements would be 15" x 37".  If you want to add a zipper, here is a tutorial that gives an almost hidden zipper.

Happy Stitching!

Itch to Stich Celeste pattern Update....

 Just popping in to let you know that Itch to Stitch has updated the sizing on Celeste dress pattern.  Here is the line drawing:

The sizing has been updated from 00 - 20 with cup sizes A - DD to 00 - 40 with cup sizes A - DD.

This is a great casual summer dress.  It is on my list of things to do.  With any luck, it will get accomplished soon as I love nothing better than a nice dress on a hot, summer day.

Happy Stitching!

(Affiliate link included.  I will get a small commission should you purchase using the link above at no cost to you.)

Classic Shirt Muslin....

 I gave up on my dress muslin and have moved on to fall and winter items.  I have started leaning more toward wovens items so I am starting with a classic button down shirt. This is the pattern that I have chosen:

This is Liesl & Co Classic Shirt pattern.  I chose this pattern because it has a very classic look and has bust darts.  

As with many patterns, there is not much opportunity to fit before having to sew a large portion of the pattern.  With that said, here is my version with front/back and collar completed:

I have the side seams pinned in here so I could get an idea of what of the fit through the shoulders and body.  This is a really good first round. There are only two things I see.  First, the dart is too high.  Second, the dart needs to be a little deeper.  The dart being too high for me is an unusually alteration for me.  Here are additional photos:

Here is a view of the right side.  I think you can really tell here that the dart is way too high and you can see the tell tell signs of needing a larger dart.  The shoulder area does not look bad.  On to the next picture:

Here is a view of the left side.  I think this side really shows the need for a larger dart.  The back:

The back is not bad.  I am a little concerned about the depth of the armscye but I will wait to see how the sleeve fits or does not fit.  I admit I forgot to measure the sleeve before cutting out.  

I try to only make one muslin so my changes are going to made to this muslin and it is going to get ugly from here.  Here is the change that I am going to attempt and then I will proceed with the side seams and sleeves:

1.  I am going to drop the dart by 1 1/8".  This will be me slices across the front and inserting fabric.

2.  I am going to increase the size of the dart.  I will drape this change after moving the dart to the correct.  This is assuming that I still need this.

Now that I have assigned myself additional homework, have you made this blouse?  How did it turn out for you?

Happy Sewing!

(Affiliate link is included.  I would receive a small portion of the sale should you make a purchase at no cost to you.)

Inspiration...Wrap Coat

 I was not intending on making a coat this year but sometimes you find something that says maybe you should.  Here is the coat:

This is the Lafayette 148 New York Joella Whipstitch Cashmere Coat.  Price tag: $2,498.00.  Details:  31" from shoulder to hem, wrap front with self belt, long sleeves, side pockets, relaxed silhouette, cashmere, whipstitching.

Here is a closer look at the whipstitching:

I think that the whipstitching really makes this jacket.  It does not take long to complete.  Here is how to whipstitch - here.  When I zoom in on the stitching, it looks like a blanket stitch to me.  Directions are here.  If I actually get around to making this jacket, I will do the blanket stitch.  Remember to use a thicker thread so that the stitch shows up.  Here is a pattern that is similar:

This is the Fabrics-store dot com Faye Linen Duster Pattern.  The price is right on this one as it is a freebie.  Changes that I see are removing that band, change up the pockets, and the sleeves.  

If you look closely at the inspiration photo, you will see that it has a two-piece sleeve.  This type of sleeve is a little easier to fit.  There could be other patterns available.  If you think that there is another pattern that would work, let me know and I will check it out.  Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Fabric, Fabric, Fabric...

 I just can not seem to resist buying fabric.  Here is the latest acquisitions:

I purchased 2 yards of the crepe ity.  Destined to be a top.  No pattern selected yet.  Easy care  - gentle cycle, tumble dry low.

 

I purchased 4 yards of the navy cotton/poly water repellent jacketing.  This seemed like the perfect fabric for the Kelly Anorak jacket pattern by Closet Core Patterns.  Here's a quick look at the pattern front:

Lots of plans, little time.  Hopefully, I will get to these projects.  

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...T-shirt

 This week's inspiration is a wardrobe staple - the T-shirt.

This is the Lafayette 148 New York The Modern Long-Sleeve Tee. Price tag: $248.00. Details:  Approximately 23 1/2" from shoulder to hem, crew neckline, relaxed fit, pullover style, cotton.

That is a lot for a cotton t-shirt.  There are some details that you can not see in the picture above and really should head over to Neiman Marcus to check it out.  The detail that I am talking about is the hems.  Both the sleeve hem and bottom hem are deep with cover stitched or double-needle stitch.  This creates a little more weight on the hem.  

As for patterns, most any loose t-shirt pattern will work.  If you already have a pattern fitted, by all means use it instead of purchasing another one.  Here is some ideas:

This is the Silhoutte Patterns Sweater Set pattern.  This pattern has darts which is helpful with fitting.  Once it is fitted, you can have a long-sleeve t-shirt, a cardigan, and a sleeveless top.  The cardigan would not be the same size as the other two tops.  Hems would need to be deepened to match the inspiration photo.

This is the Women's Metro T-Shirt pattern by Liesl & Co.  This is a basic t-shirt with long and short sleeve versions.  There are versions for men and children as well.  You would definitely need to deepen the hem to match the inspiration photo.

I have no doubt that there are a multitude of similar patterns available.  Use what you already have or purchase one of these patterns.  We could make a whole wardrobe of t-shirts for the price of the inspiration piece.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Home Dec Sewing...

 Well, I kinda just keep buying fabric.  This time I have decided that my slipcovers need to be replaced.  I can not remember how old they are but I think they yell out "Old Woman".  So, I picked this linen to replaced my floral and checked/plaid slipcovers.  Here is the fabric:

This is a heavy weight linen from fabrics-store dot com. Somehow, I thought it was going to be a lighter in color but I will work with it.  I purchased 15 yards with hopes that it will cover a love seat and a chair.  We will see if I can accomplish that.  

I will be using the existing slips as patterns.  I do not take them apart.  Instead I measure and add seam allowances.  The slips will be a challenge as there are many pleats that I will need to figure out.  I am guessing that I will draft a pattern of some sort for the pleated areas to check the sizing.  Once the slips are finished, I will make some new covers for the pillows as well to bring in some color.  However, this could be a fun point.  The pillow covers could actually be changed from season-to-season if I choose.  

Now, I need to figure out how to find the time to get the yardage washed and dried a couple of times.  Maybe I will call the dry cleaners and see what they can do for me.  Otherwise, it will need to be a laundry mat with large washers and dryers.  I suppose I could throw in some pillows as well.

Happy Stitching!

Sew Discouraged....

 So, I made a muslin for an Itch to Stitch dress.  Does not matter which one.  It was just a lot of work for a muslin.  It has not been that long ago that I took all my measurements.  Much to my surprise the dress was form fitting in the torso and it was not suppose to be.  Out came the tape measure to check my measurements once again.  They have increased in the torso which explains the form fitting look I achieved.  The bodice was huge.   I have gone back and reprinted the various sizes that I need but it felt like such a waste of time and fabric.  This dress will get accomplished even if I have to make another muslin.

What do you do when something bombs?  Does it discourage you?  I haven't made a dress in a while since maybe last fall.  Now, I wondering if that dress will even fit.  I never even found an occasion to wear it.  I suppose I should check.  Otherwise it is just taking up space.  I shall move forward and just remember to check those measurements more often.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Long Coat

 There is nothing like a beautiful coat.  This coat is just that:

This is Lafayette 148 New York Emile Wool-Silk Coat. Price tag: $1498.00.  Details: wool blend, lining is acetate/nylon, approximately 42" long from the shoulder, notched lapels, two button closure, long sleeve, button cuffs, center back seam, flap side pockets, topper silhouette, single back vent.

This is a perfect coat for cold weather.  It would be in my wardrobe in an instant except for that price tag.  I will admit I do not need a coat but I would love a coat like this one.  Here is a pattern that is similar:

This is Liesl & Co Chaval Coat pattern.  It is a little straighter than the inspiration photo but I think it would work. 

You could probably look at vintage coat patterns and fine a silhouette that match the inspiration photo.  Who know, you might even have one in your pattern stash just waiting to be used.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Casual for Fall/Winter

 This week's look is to me a very wearable look:

This is the Lafayette 148 New York Speckled Donegal V-Neck Sweater.  Price tag: $898.00.  Details:  V neckline, long sleeves, drop shoulders, relaxed silhouette, pullover style, cashmere/wool/nylon. Sorry, I was unable to locate information on the jeans or boots.

This is a great everyday look.  Unless you are a knitter you will need to get creative with this.  Here is a sweater pattern that might pull off the look:

This is Silhouette Patterns #924 Polo's Best.  This isn't quite as oversized as the inspiration picture but kinda has the same feel.  

This is Kwik Sew 3045. This pattern has the oversized look of the inspiration pattern.  You could "V" the neckline, add a little bit of length, and hem.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!