Thursday, June 28, 2018

Woven Tank Top...

In May, I had a inspiration post on a Woven Tank.  I have decided that I really need to work on some tanks and I would prefer it to be woven.  The weather is starting to get hot and I really need some clothes to help me stay cool.  So, I pulled out the Silhouettes Tank pattern:


I'm starting with View A.  Once it is fitted, I should be able to make any version.  Here are the changes that I made as I was getting the pattern ready:

1.  Added 3 3/4" to the length.  Silhouette patterns are almost always too short in the tops.
2.  Corrected the pattern.  The front pattern was about 1/8" too short when I matched the side seams in paper.
3.  Add 5/8 to the side seam for fitting purposes.

Changes made at the muslin stage:
1. Took out excess length via the shoulder seams in the amount of  2".

Here is the finished muslin:




Thoughts on the muslin:

1.  The top is too wide through the shoulders.
2.  Need more room through the hips.

At this point, I contacted Peggy at Silhouette Patterns.  I'm not sure that the way I was going about making these changes were correct.  I asked for clarification.  If nothing else, I've got a armhole size for sleeveless garments.  I had hoped that I could end up with a workable garment but that is not going to be the case.  Cute fabric though!

Additional change to this muslin:

1.  I made a seam the width of the pressure foot down the middle of the front and back which pulled the seams in.  Here's the result:


I thought in the first picture I was just very tired.  However, I'm thinking now that this is a good example of the wrong color.  It's still looks a bit funny.  I consulted with ladies at Pattern Review regarding this pattern.  I'm going to try a different size and see if the results are different.


Changes that were moved to the pattern:

1.  I moved the fold line on the pattern front and back about 1/2".
2.  Made a small sway back adjustment.
3.  Raised the back neckline.

I compared the "W" size that I was using with the largest size of the regular size.  This created a surprise for me.  The "W" size had straps that was 1 3/8" longer than the regular size.  This is about what I took out of the muslin above on the straps.  These are the changes that I made as a result of the comparison:

1.  Reduced the length of the straps front and back by 1 3/8"
2.  Added width to the hips following the same measurement differences on the regular sizing.

2nd muslin:



This is the first fitting of the second muslin.  It looks pretty good.  There is still a little bit of gaping.  I'm going to take a deeper dart and see how it looks.  Here's the second fitting of the second muslin (all the hems have been done):



I took a deeper dart by about 1/4".  It looks a little bit better.  I do think that I could take a deeper dart but I'm not going to make any additional changes to this top.  I'm going to deem it a wearable muslin.  Here's a back view:


It looks like I could make some changes to the back.  I may make the sway back adjustment a little deeper.

Now that I have a fairly well fitting top, I want to make two or three additional tops.  This will require going through the stash and most of it isn't located here at the house.  I should be able to whip out these quickly, if I have the appropriate fabric.

Oh, one thing I didn't mention.  I now have a sleeveless armhole.  I just need to get it transferred to a more permanent medium and I will have a template for woven sleeveless armholes.  How awesome is that?

Happy Stitching!

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