Kismet Trinket Boxes....

As part of a gift for a relative, I decided to make a set of rectangle Kismet Trinket Boxes by Sew Sweetness:

I had asked if they were interested in any additional fabric storage containers and they responded with that they love some with lids.  This particular pattern fit the description.

I made pattern pieces by drawing and tracing. Then, I carefully cut out all the pieces for each box and pinned them together.  The zipper instructions were a little difficult for me to understand but I finally managed it.  Here's my versions:

I love how this little boxes turned out.  I hope that the recipient likes as much as I do.

Here are the notions that I found to be very useful:

A seam ripper and it was new, a Sew EZ Fingerthing, and Wonderclips.  I've included links to Etsy for the same items.

All in all this was a challenging project but fun.

Happy Stitching!

Sewing Pants for Women...The Three-Headed Dragon of Pants Construction, Part 11

Continuing with the Sewing Pants for Women by Else Tryoler.  Today, will we talk about sewing instructions for perfect fit:

With your trusty needle for a lance, you must slay this awesome dragon!  Use this chapter for a shield!  Know thy pants sag and bag and won't sit down and half the battle is won.  The other half can simply to avoided.

Pants were originally designed for men, by men.  In attempting to fit them to malady's more diminutive waist and rococo hips, the pattern-makers applied what know they had --- all of which had worked for men -- and what usually happened?  This!  Pants that bagged in front!  The center front seam took off like a ski jump --- bias all the way!  Figure 32 illustrates such a seam in action.  Its only possible use is to fit the figure beside it!  Pants hang from the waist, just like a tailored skirt.  Try taking a straight skirt pattern and changing the front seam to a bias.  What happens?  The skirt would pouch out in front like a cow-catcher, wouldn't it?  That is exactly what pants do when their center front seam is cut on the bias.  The evidence appears as baggy wrinkles across the crotch.  The fault lies in the design of the pattern itself; there is no cure for it.  If you already own such a pair of pants, look for another brand of pants.

Pants that sag in back

The same principle holds true here.  If the center back is cut on a distinct bias --- and you are not --- you are in for a bad case of the sags!  (See Figure 33)  It is not a question of too much length in the back seam.  It cannot be cured by "taking a little tuck across the seat".  Such a remedy would be about as effective as giving aspirin to a drowning man.  So it is with a bias-cut seat seam.  Alter, adjust, take tucks, let in, and let out all you want, but nothing is going to change the basic situation.  A bias-cut seat seam sags because it is  bias-cut, and there is nothing you can do about it.  It you are chagrined owner of pants of this description, throw a coat on over them, and dash out for another pair.

Pants that won't sit down

Perhaps you know the ones we are talking about.  When you sit down, they pull down in the back.  The effect ranges all the way from discomfort when sitting to a general public announcement of what you wear beneath those back-sliding pants.

What do do about it?  Well, you can always balance yourself on the end of your spine, like a board propped in the corner, for there is no handy relief for your distress.  The fault again is in the construction of the pattern:  the old devil, bias back seam, is with us again.

Think of it this way.  Picture the seat curve of your pattern as a contour chair.  Could you sit in it comfortably, with suitably erect posture, in no danger of sliding off?

In Figure 34, the broken line represents the back center seam of the pair of pants with sitting room; the sold line shows a bias seam guaranteed to keep you in misery for the life of the pants.  The distance between the two is your margin for composed sitting.  The solid-line bias seam, forced to conform to the dotted-line straight seam when you sit down, pulls your pants down in back exactly the distance between the two.  Look for pants construction with a seat seam shaped like a dotted line, or put the shape in as shown in Figure 34.  You will most likely have to add to the side seam.

Recognizing a well-constructed pattern

Now that you know all about the wrong sort of construction, just what do you look for to assure no-bag, no-sag, sitting-down pants?

A good pattern has a fairly straight up-and-down center seam in both front and back.  Remember that pants hang from the waist just like a slim, tailored skirt.  The center seams must be straight or the skirt will flare: the center seams of pants must be straight or they will bag.  There will be a tiny bit of bias to a well-constructed pattern, just enough to accommodate the human figure, but never enough to condemn you to eternal bagginess sagginess ad miserable sitting.  You should be able to sit on the seat curve without sliding off!

Compare Figure 35 and Figure 36.  In Figure 35 you see a well-constructed pattern.  See how the hips curve to accommodate a woman's shape.  Notice that the center seams are virtually straight up and down.  In the poor construction in Figure 36 the side seams at the hip-line are quite straight --- and the center seams are cut on the bias.  Here is what happened; the curve was taken off the hips and put in the center crotch seams.  There is probably the same amount of room in the two patterns, but it is in the wrong place!  The Good Lord put your hips where they are --- and that is where the curve must be.

Knitting Cables, The First Samples ....

The Explorations of Cables has been an interesting class so far.  Here's the first two samples:

Here's what I've learned so far:

1.  Cast on using the long tail cast on method in pattern.
2.  Tighten up the first stitch between a knit and purl.
3.  Tighten up the last stitch on a row.
4.  New techniques in binding off.
5.  How to read a knitting chart.

Don't you think that is a pretty good start?  I can only hope that the rest of the class in this enlightening.

I will admit that the hardest thing is reading a knitting chart especially for creating cables.  Hopefully, I will be able to get the slashes and such, and it will sink in.  Right now, I still have to look at the written description but with practice I should get there. 

Please note, that these samples have not been blocked.  As a point of reference, I'm using Lion Brand Wool-Ease yarn.

Happy Stitching!

Bendy Bag....

As part of a gift for a relative, I decided to make a pair of the Bendy Bags by Lazy Girl Designs. 

Here is my effort:

I thought that they turned out fairly well even with the issues that I had.  I am unsure of how long it actually took me to complete these little bags because I worked on them over a couple of days. 

The fabric was a joke on my part.  This particular relative had asked for $1M dollars and one of the bills on the fabric is a $1M bill. 

I did draw out the pattern pieces for this project.  I did cut out the pieces individually.  Next time, I will stack all the fabric and cut out in one swoop.

Things that I found confusing in the directions:

1.  The zipper - The instructions for the zipper application were good.  What a found a bit confusing was that the supply list says that the zipper size is 14" or longer but the directions are written for a 14" zipper only.  Once I realized that the zipper diagram was representing a 1" grid, I figured out how long the second cut on the zipper was suppose to be and where the stitching on the zipper was suppose to be.  I also missed the bit about the zipper casing and had to redo that part. 

I think that was the only part of the instructions that I had any issues with.  Fortunately, all issues were correctable.

I may make these again.  Little bags to organize stuff in are always needed. 

Happy Stitching!

Sewing Pants for Women...Sewing Instructions For Perfect Fit, Part 10

Continuing with the Sewing Pants for Women by Else Tryoler.  Today, will we talk about sewing instructions for perfect fit:

The assumption is made that you have not begun this DIY pant without a pattern.  Of course, commercial pant patterns have their own set of instructions.  Don't toss them out!  You will need them for all the little details that lend style to the pant.  Pockets, belts, slits, and loops are all details that should have detailed how-to's on your instruction sheet.  The first thing to do is read over both these instructions and the pattern instructions.  Note where and when to refer back to the pattern instructions.  Otherwise follow the instructions below:

The Groundwork

Test your pattern in denim:  Make your first pair of pants in an inexpensive cotton material such as denim.  This pair is a trial run, subject to minor re-adjustment and trial-by-wearing.  Do not choose muslin for this purpose.  Using muslin makes fitting trousers more difficult, and, besides, why not have pants worth wearing in public.

Cut your fabric with accuracy:  This is many a slip twixt snip and fit, and what isn't there cannot be added.  By the way, if you would like to achieve that very tapered look in pants, choose a fabric with give.  It is a quality that can be determined by hand-to-hand test ore found with certainty in a stretch fabric.  Don't look for true taper in stiff and hard-finish cloth.  It can't be done.

Choose your zipper location:  This is a matter of personal taste  We assume that you choose your pattern with zipper site in mind.  If not, barring interference with the style of the garment, the decision is now yours to make.  As a general rule, a zipper placed either in front or back is preferable for full and rounded hips.

Do not stay stitch:  If your instructions call for stay stitching, ignore that part.  You will find that these fitting instructions require occasional stretching and easing of the fabric.  Stay stitching will interfere with that because of the inflexibility.

Preliminary pressing:  This is an important step that comes before you sew a stitch, so turn to the pressing section on  future section.

The Actual Sewing

1.  Center back:  Figure 28.  Stitch darts.  Seam back center together (leaving opening for zipper, if desired) stopped at the lower curve about 1-inch short of the leg seams.  Stretch the seam about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, depending on the give of the fabric through the lower curve in back only, when stitching and pressing.  This stretching will not only mold fit right into your pants, it will also prevent split seams at this point of great tension.

2.  Center front:  Figure 29.  Stitch darts. Seam front center down to about 1-inch from leg seam. Leave zipper opening, if necessary.

3.  Leg Seams:  Stitch inner leg seams.  Stitch outer leg seams, leaving an opening for the zipper, if not already provided for.  Press seams open.  See future for pressing.

4.  Curved seams:  Figure 30.  Finish curved (crotch) seams.  Reinforce by stitching again from start to finish of the curve.  Clip the inner curve to 1/4-inch of remaining seam, both front and back.  These clips, should be about 2-inches below the hip-line.  Press front and back seams open from waist to clipping.  Curved seam between the clips is not pressed open, but is trimmed down to 3/8-inch.

5.  The zipper:  In preparing the pants for the first fitting, you may simply baste under one side of the closing and mark the other side with colored thread for an accurate pinned closing or place the zipper.

6.  The waist:  Ease waist on to waistband.  There should be about 1-inch of ease in the waist seam to be eased on to either waistband or facing to prevent any drawing or pulling below the waist.  If you are using a fabric that does not shrink readily, stitch seams or darts slightly deeper at waist.  Do no ease through center back between the seat darts.  Direct the ease evenly to all other areas, or concentrate it more where curves are more pronounced.  Close with buttonhole or hook and eyes.

7. Hems:  Turn up hems.

8.  Pressing:  Press crease in front to just below darts.  Do same in back, stopping at crotch length.  Follow crease markings in both.



Questions:  What do you think of the stretching and easing mentioned?  Do you do either when your making a woven or stretch woven pant?  Does this apply to knits?

Happy Stitching!

Craftsy Got Me Again....

I have purchased many classes over the years from Craftsy.  Somehow, I never finish and sometimes don't start them.  I just want them.  I've been pretty good over the last year or so not purchasing classes.  However, I'm always looking.  You never know when a good class will show up.  Then, Black Friday rolled around and you know there were really good pricing on classes and it included some of the classes that I had in my list of maybes.  Unfortunately, I noticed issues when I selected the classes and requested help. Sadly, I didn't get my Black Friday deals.  I was working with support on the issues and a work around was figured out this past week. 

So, I waited for another deal and you know it came.  I picked two classes:  Explorations in Cables and The Swing Skirt: Techniques & Construction.  I have high hopes for both classes.  I have started samples for the knitting classes and the skirt class I have watched the videos up to the point where I need fabric.  I will share my samples from the knitting class and maybe discuss things that I learned.  So far, it has been really good.  I'm trying to work along with the video which means that I'm slowing working through each lesson.  With any luck, it will be a great learning experience and I will be able to move it forward to my actual knitting.  I'm not sure how much of the The Swing Skirt class I will share.  It may just be glimpses now and then.

What do you think of the Craftsy classes?  Are you good about following through with watching them and doing all the samples?

Happy Stitching!

Fabric Collection is Growing....Again

Oh, yeah, I HAD to purchase more fabric today.  I really needed it.  Here's what I ordered:

How could I resist this cute little placemat panel and of course, the red check for the backing?  I have batting in the stash.  See I'm still doing stash reduction.  LOL

Then, I also purchased fabric for a Craftsy class that I am taking:

This is a cotton jersey.  I hope that the colors are good together when they show up.  This is for a skirt class that I'm taking.  I'm hoping the class is good.  I'm definitely looking forward to it.  With any luck I will get it before the end of the year.

Now, for something I bumped into today at Fabric.com.  Minimum quantity of 2 yards.  What?  When did this start?  I really didn't want 2 yards of each of the jersey fabric.  Hopefully, I will be able to use the extra yardage.

Happy Stitching!

Easy Knit Blanket Sweater....

I started this earlier in the year.  I really indented for this to have been finished last winter but too much was going on and the finishing part is the part that I do not like.  I used the directions on Mama in a Stitch called Easy Knit Blanket Sweater.  Check out her version as mine as a little bit different.  Here's my finished rectangle:

It looks like I finished the actually knitting in the middle of June.  Just 6 months to get around to doing the finishing.  I will admit that my life has been a bit crazy in the last 6 months but it is finally calming down.

Here's the finished version:

 You can tell that this is a difference is casting on and binding off in this picture.  It looks like one side has more stitches than the other.  I think I need to practice more to get a more elastic bind off.

Here it is on:

This will be perfect for taking along to church and such.  Sometimes, you just need another layer with the fan/air/whatever is blowing.  It does feel a little bit big but for what it's doing it's fine.

I used the Bernat Blanket yarn that I found at JoAnn's.  It is 100% polyester and very cozy.  I used one strand of yarn.  If I was doing this again, I would use two strands to make an even cozier little shrug.

I think this is the end of my unfinished projects from the year.  Now, I will move back to the sewing room and finish up holiday stitching.

Happy Stitching!

Sewing Pants for Women...The Dress Rehearsal - First Fitting, Part 9

Continuing with the Sewing Pants for Women by Else Tryoler.  Today, will we talk about the first fitting:

If you have faithfully learned the lines of the Seven Giant Steps to Pants Perfection, your anguish will be at a minimum.  However, even with best of all possible plays has a few awkward bits.  In our case little individual body quirks you didn't know you had may become apparent.  Take heart, you must remember to take back any little oddity back to your pattern and make the changes there as well as in the finished product.

Now for the fitting:  Be sure you have sewn a belt onto the waist, or that you at least have a band basted to it.  Pants hang from the waist.  Don't try to hold them up with your hands and achieve fit at the same time!  The closing should be basted under on one side and the other marked with colored basting stitches for an accurate pinned closing.  If you are quite hippy put zipper in front or back, otherwise at any place you wish.

1.  Check the waist band for comfort, letting it out or in as needed.  This will affect the darts, making them deeper or shallower at the right place, either front or back.

2.  Check hip comfort, letting in or out slightly at side seams.

3.  Check crotch length.  Does it hang too low?  Then pin an even tuck all around the hip-line.  Is the crotch too short? Go back to Sewing Pants for Women...Preparing the Pattern for Alteration Step 2, Part 3 for the alteration. If it is only a matter of 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch, drop the waistline that amount.

4.  Check the crotch width.  Are you comfortable?  Is there a pull across the front or back at the crotch level?  Then let out the seams on the inner legs at the crotch point.  (See Sewing Pants for Women...Preparing the Pattern for Alteration Step 4, Part 5)  Perhaps there is too much leeway in this area.  Take the seams in, especially if you covet that cupped-in look of the younger generation.  In this case, taper a sharper inward curve down to the knee line.

5.  Check the back rise.  If any droopiness has crept in, or the seat does not hang as straight as you would have it, pin out a tuck across the seat. (See Sewing Pants for Women...Preparing the Pattern for Alteration Step 1. Part 2) .  If your pants pull in the center when bending or sitting:

      a.  Look at the waist center, front and back.  There may be too much dip or drop.  If this is so, set the waistband higher, tapering to nothing at the sides.

      b.  If more rise is needed, alter pattern by opening at center back about 1/2-inch and re-mark pants with altered pattern.

6.  Check for leg comfort.  This is a matter of taste as well as fit.  Take in or let out seams by the same technique you learned in { Step 6 }.  Be sure to keep the crease-line in the center!

A smile is a very pleasant thing indeed, except when it refers to wrinkles in the front of your pants!  Among the familiars of the garment trade, "pants that smile in front" is the euphemistic term used to describe garments with wrinkles that flair upwards from the crotch, as in the illustration.  And it is nothing to grin about!

The cause is varied:  there may be insufficient crotch width.  In this case the malady can be cured by referring back to crotch width alterations in Sewing Pants for Women...Preparing the Pattern for Alteration Step 4, Part 5.  There you will find instructions for widening this area.  Often, wrinkles are caused by too snug a fit through the hip at the side seams.  Misjudged hips or heavy thighs may need more breathing space.  Release the side seams and see if that doesn't do away with the unwanted smile.



To cup or not to cup -- that is the question!

The cupped-in look is a modern trend among the young-at-heart.  See the illustration.  Perhaps you admire it, perhaps you don't.  There are followers in both schools of thought.

This contour fit is achieved by reducing the crotch points in back only, and by deepening the seat curve.  The crotch curve must be a straighter, downward plunging line with a sharp turn inwards.  See Figure 31.

Perhaps you are not devoted to the cupped look, but find that there is simply too much fullness across or just below the seat.  Making the crotch curve a straighter, down-ward-plunging line or giving it a sharp turn inwards (or both) will serve to remedy the situation.

If any of these last-minute changes have cropped up in your fitting, and you have conscientiously made the changes to your pattern, you can go forth knowing that you are now the proud possessor of a true-blue pants pattern this is yours, all yours!  The final sweet reward will come when you sit back and dream of rows upon rows of perfect pants that are yours for the making!

Question:  What are you thoughts on these alterations?

Happy Sewing!

Sewing Pants for Women...Preparing the Pattern for Alteration Step 7, Part 8

Continuing with the Sewing Pants for Women by Else Tryoler.  Today, will we start with Step 7 of the seven giant steps to pants perfection:

The Back Rise

What is the back rise, anyhow? When you look at the blueprint of a pair of pants, the back rise is your sitting room.  It is the extra bit of length built into the center back seam to give you the necessary leeway for sitting, bending, an walking.  No one can appreciate it more than the poor unfortunate who has heard that ominous rrrrip in public.

Therefore, if you are intent upon constructing a pair of pants primarily for action -- to wear for golf or bowling, or mountain climbing -- you will want to be sure that they have the necessary back rise to make such activities possible.  By the same token, if you desire pure chic and fashion, the amount of back rise will determine whether they do hang arrow-straight from the seat.  In either case, too much of a good thing is going to give you that dreary droop in the seat that has a way of making a pair of pants look tired.

Remember that you cannot always have comfort for activity and an extremely straight hang from the seat to hem.  More active sports usually call for Bermudas or pedal pushers, and a slight sag in the rear is not as noticeable in this length as it would be in the long, tapered pants.

Take your fabric into consideration, too.  A soft fabric with more give through the seat will require less rise.  Woolens and unlined knit fabric (or knits) need very little, and a stretch fabric needs no back rise at all.

It is difficult to determine just how much rise a pattern maker has built into his pattern.  When you cut a pair of pants from a pattern be sure to leave extra seam allowance.  That is, add 1-inch instead of the usual 5/8-inch to the center, waistline, and side seams in the back.  Add 1-inch allowance to front waistline only.  See Figure 23.  Broken lines indicate seam allowance.

The dismal results of too much back rise is a seat that droops and hangs down like the tail of a whipped puppy.  The fault cannot be corrected by taking up at the wait, nor is it associated with the length of the crotch.  If you find, at the first fitting of pants cut from a pattern, that this is the case (as in Figure 24), pin out the excess rise in a tuck across the seat at the hip line.  Starting at center and pinning tuck along hip-line, taper to nothing a the side seam.  You will transfer the same amount to tuck to the pattern by cutting the pattern along the hip-line, from the center back seam to side seam.  Then overlap the lower half over the upper half a the center back seam and taper to nothing at the side seam.  Reshape the crotch curve slightly, as shown by the broken line in Figure 25.  Also, use these directions for alterations on read-made pants. 

Having now adjusted the pattern to the exact amount of rise needed by you, rip the side seams of your garment down far enough to permit re-placing the pattern upon it, and re-mark to the new dimensions.  You see now why we warned to leave a little extra seam allowance when cutting from a pattern for the first time.

In altering a pair of ready-made pants for which you do not have a pattern, drop the waist the same amount that you pinned out across the seat a center.  See Figure 26.  The broken line is the former stitching line.  The side and the center seam mover over and assume a new position.  See solid line.

How do you know how much back rise to eliminate?  For long, glamorous pants that look their best when hanging in a die-straight line below the seat, a shorter back rise is required.  Take out 1/2-inch to 1-inch by cutting the pattern from the center back seam along the hip-line from center back to side seam.  Overlap the correct amount at the center, taper to nothing at side seam.  Adjust the crotch curve as in Figure 25.

Pants intended for more strenuous sports need more rise for movement.  Cut across the hip-line from center back to side seam, and pin pattern to an insert about 1/2-inch wide at the center seam, tapering to nothing at the side seam.  Adjust the crotch seam as in Figure 27. 

Modern pants need a deeper curve than patterns and ready-made pants allow.  The curve must be deepened on a pattern or pinned in on ready-made pants.  For a cupped-in look, the curve must be fitted deeply, and a small amount tapered off the crotch point in back.  See "Crotch Width Alteration", Figures 12 and 13 in Sewing Pants for Women...Preparing the Pattern for Alteration Step 4, Part 5.  These alternations apply to the back ONLY.  They will not work on the front.

Question:  What is your thought on this method of altering the back rise?  Have you tried it?  Did it work for you?

I stumbled upon this alteration accidentally when I was taking a pant drafting class.  It was the only way I could get the wrinkles under the butt to disappear.  The teacher told me that it was an incorrect alteration.  However, the next iteration of the class did indeed show that alteration. 

Next will be sewing instructions for the perfect fit.

Happy Stitching!

Tawashi Knot...

I found the Tawashi Knot on Ravelry here and thought it was kinda cute.  So, I decided to attempt to make one with left over cotton yarn from the kitchen towels that I have made this year.  Here's my version:

I did make a small mistake on my version but I can't really tell that it affected the end result much. Since this version is made out of cotton, I don't think it will be much of a scrubber but it will certain work as a dish cloth.  The recommend yarn is acrylic but I think I'm going to try a different "yarn" to try the next one.

This was a fun little free project.  Just right to make little bits of yarn disappear.

Note:  I saw many complaints about the directions for folding this.  Just follow the directions/pictures and you should be okay.  I got it on the second try. 

Happy Stitching!

Knitted Kitchen Towel....

I finally finished the second kitchen towel as this post back in April.  It's amazing that so much time has past since I started the kitchen towel.  Here is the towel in the reverse colors from the one made in April:

This time, I actually followed the directions exactly.  I like the stripes slightly better in the first towel along with the darker color of the body.  What do you think?

Happy Stitching!