The assumption is made that you have not begun this DIY pant without a pattern. Of course, commercial pant patterns have their own set of instructions. Don't toss them out! You will need them for all the little details that lend style to the pant. Pockets, belts, slits, and loops are all details that should have detailed how-to's on your instruction sheet. The first thing to do is read over both these instructions and the pattern instructions. Note where and when to refer back to the pattern instructions. Otherwise follow the instructions below:
The Groundwork
Test your pattern in denim: Make your first pair of pants in an inexpensive cotton material such as denim. This pair is a trial run, subject to minor re-adjustment and trial-by-wearing. Do not choose muslin for this purpose. Using muslin makes fitting trousers more difficult, and, besides, why not have pants worth wearing in public.
Cut your fabric with accuracy: This is many a slip twixt snip and fit, and what isn't there cannot be added. By the way, if you would like to achieve that very tapered look in pants, choose a fabric with give. It is a quality that can be determined by hand-to-hand test ore found with certainty in a stretch fabric. Don't look for true taper in stiff and hard-finish cloth. It can't be done.
Choose your zipper location: This is a matter of personal taste We assume that you choose your pattern with zipper site in mind. If not, barring interference with the style of the garment, the decision is now yours to make. As a general rule, a zipper placed either in front or back is preferable for full and rounded hips.
Do not stay stitch: If your instructions call for stay stitching, ignore that part. You will find that these fitting instructions require occasional stretching and easing of the fabric. Stay stitching will interfere with that because of the inflexibility.
Preliminary pressing: This is an important step that comes before you sew a stitch, so turn to the pressing section on future section.
The Actual Sewing
1. Center back: Figure 28. Stitch darts. Seam back center together (leaving opening for zipper, if desired) stopped at the lower curve about 1-inch short of the leg seams. Stretch the seam about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, depending on the give of the fabric through the lower curve in back only, when stitching and pressing. This stretching will not only mold fit right into your pants, it will also prevent split seams at this point of great tension.
2. Center front: Figure 29. Stitch darts. Seam front center down to about 1-inch from leg seam. Leave zipper opening, if necessary.
3. Leg Seams: Stitch inner leg seams. Stitch outer leg seams, leaving an opening for the zipper, if not already provided for. Press seams open. See future for pressing.
4. Curved seams: Figure 30. Finish curved (crotch) seams. Reinforce by stitching again from start to finish of the curve. Clip the inner curve to 1/4-inch of remaining seam, both front and back. These clips, should be about 2-inches below the hip-line. Press front and back seams open from waist to clipping. Curved seam between the clips is not pressed open, but is trimmed down to 3/8-inch.
5. The zipper: In preparing the pants for the first fitting, you may simply baste under one side of the closing and mark the other side with colored thread for an accurate pinned closing or place the zipper.
6. The waist: Ease waist on to waistband. There should be about 1-inch of ease in the waist seam to be eased on to either waistband or facing to prevent any drawing or pulling below the waist. If you are using a fabric that does not shrink readily, stitch seams or darts slightly deeper at waist. Do no ease through center back between the seat darts. Direct the ease evenly to all other areas, or concentrate it more where curves are more pronounced. Close with buttonhole or hook and eyes.
7. Hems: Turn up hems.
8. Pressing: Press crease in front to just below darts. Do same in back, stopping at crotch length. Follow crease markings in both.
Questions: What do you think of the stretching and easing mentioned? Do you do either when your making a woven or stretch woven pant? Does this apply to knits?
Happy Stitching!
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