Willow Tank Round 2...

 I have continued working on the Willow Tank muslin.  In the last post, I was going to increase the armhole depth by 1/2-inch.  I did this but it still wasn't enough.  Then, I made the change equal to 3/4-inch.  I think that is perfect.  This put the bust dart when it should have been, I think.  I draped the bust dart and pinned in another inch.  Here is the results of those changes:

In this picture, the length from the shoulder to the bust is better.

In the picture you can see the bust dart positioning.  I think the location is good but needs to be a bit shorter.  I can still a little bit of rippling along the back armscye.  I think that means I need a little bit more length and I will do a small increase at center back by 1/4-inch.  

This is so you can see the difference in the hang of the top from left to right.  The left side has the larger dart pinned in.

The back view with the armhole depth enlarged from first go around.  It is the same 3/4-inch. I do not see any additional pulling under the arms.  I do see some strange wrinkles that I am not familiar with.  They look like backward parenthesis about where the bottom of the shoulder blades would be or bottom of the armscye.  

A little more alterations and I enlisted the help of the photographer:

I have hand stitched larger darts.

The front is hanging better with the larger, shorter dart.

The back is hanging much better.  The weird backward parentheses is mostly gone.  A 1/4" high round back alteration was done.  When I restitched the side seams, I only stitched to the waist leaving the remainder open to see how the wrinkles looked.  I think the answer is that the width of the pattern doesn't match me yet.  It could be that the waist is hanging lower than should which would be the width of the hip in the wrong.  Regardless, I need a little more space for the backside.  Here is the finally version of the pattern:

Folks, I am going to call this pattern ready to sew the spring/summer wardrobe in April.  The changes need to be transferred to the pattern.   I might have to redo this if I happen to lose more weight but if I do not then I can whip a couple of tops and a dress with this pattern fairly quickly.

One item checked off my list.

Happy Stitching!

New Jogger Pattern Itch to Stitch Nusle Joggers PDF Pattern

 Itch to Stitch has another new pattern.  It is the Nusle Joggers PDF pattern.  Here is the line drawings:

Details: 

    - elastic waist with drawstring

    - mid-rise that sits at natural waist

    - slant pockets

    -  3 leg options - split hem, ankle cuff, and capri cuff

    - designed for 4-way stretch with good recovery

I really like the look of the split hem option.  This pattern is perfect to go with the Nazare Zip-Up Jacket pdf pattern.  Not sure at this time how long the Nusle pattern will be discounted but all discounts apply.  So if you did not put the Nazare Zip-Up Jacket pdf pattern, now is a good time to add to your collection.

Now I am wondering if I can go all matchy matchy with the jacket and pants.  Thoughts?

I am an affiliate of Itch to Stitch.  Any purchases made through my links will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.  Thank you!

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Tunic

 Sometimes you find a top that is perfect but only for a short time.  This top is one of those.  Maybe you could get a color that would span fall and spring.  

This is the J Jill Easy Button Front Tunic.  Price tag: $99.00.  Details: 100% linen, split neck, relaxed fit, gathers at center back/front yoke/sleeve cuffs, 3/4 sleeves.  A medium top measure 29 1/2-inches at center back.

Such a cute top and perfect for early spring.  Here is a pattern that is almost perfect :

This is the Sew Over It Zadie Blouse pdf pattern.  There is a couple of changes that might be needed - shorten the sleeves to 3/4 length and straight the hem. There could be some lenghtening/shortening as well.  This pattern does call for light weight fabric.  You can get light weight linen,  Check at fabrics-store.com .  They have many colors of light weight linen.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Pleats, Pleats, Pleats...

 I am starting to see pleating returning to fashion.  Pleated pants have been gone for a while and I am started to see pleated pant patterns again.  I found this article at Sew Daily that might be helpful - here.  One thing to remember with pleats in the hip measurement must be the fullest part or the pleat will gap and it is not a good look.  I found this illustration that may be helpful:

Pleated pants almost always have pockets.  Here are some tutorials for various pockets:

slant pocket drafting 

welt pocket instructions

Silhouette Patterns has a welt pocket tutorial as well.  Click on Welt Strip Pockets. You might find other information on this page interesting as well.

Front Fly Zipper

Video of Front Fly Zipper

Front Fly Zipper with Shield

Crotch point - this is really a personal preference.  I have always followed the thought that the looser the pant the lower the crotch point hang.  Jeans and leggings are as close as you can get the crotch.  Trousers crotch point should be lower than a jean or leggings crotch point,  I am guessing but it is probably about 1/2-inch drop.  

Here is an article on how dress pants should fit.  It is for men but you will get an understanding - here.

Here is an article discussing pant fit that shows measurements - here.

Here is an article on pant fitting adjustments - here.

I also have a series on pant fitting from 1963 - here.

Hope this is enough information to get you started on your pant fitting journey.

Happy Stitching!

Oh, Yeah, Another Pattern...

 Resistance is futile.  That is what it is for me to resist all things sewing.  Yes, I purchased another pattern.  Yes, it is a super interesting.  Hopefully, I will make it because I love the line drawings. Here is the line drawings: 

 It is the Nazare Zip-Up Hoodie pattern by Itch to Stitch.  You can read more about the pattern here but it is not on sale any more.

I have read/watched several reviews and love every version I have seen.  Now, I just need to locate some fabric and no doubt it will not be in the huge stash but I look first.  Really what is the use of the stash if you can not find something to use in it.  

Happy Stitching!