Continuing with the "Fitting Dresses" booklet from the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Collar Difficulties
Neck line seam shows where flat collar is attached. This inside collar line may be longer than the neck line. This may be caused by failing to alter the collar after changing the neck line.
Rip the collar from the dress. Measure the dress neck line accurately from center back to center front, holding the edge of the measuring tape along the seam line. The stitching line of the collar should be twice this length. Take out the difference on each side of the center front of the collar. Pin the collar to the neck line and baste, easing the neck line slightly and holding the collar taut. Try on the dress again and be sure it is satisfactory before stitching.
Convertible collar stands away from the neck. The collar is too long for the dress neck line or the latter is too large.
Rip the collar from the dress. If the dress neck line fits correctly, measure it carefully along the stitching line. Then measure the inside collar length. If these measurements are not the same, take off the extra collar length at the ends. Pin the collar back in place and bast to the neck line. Try on the dress and see if the collar fits properly before stitching.
Straight collar rolls too high and rides the back of the neck. The inside collar line may be too straight or the neck line of the dress is too high at the back.
Rip the collar from the dress. If the neck line is much too high, trim it out slightly at the back. Otherwise, try basting the collar on with a seam deep enough to reduce the roll of the collar at the back. Or trim off the back of the collar. If this makes the collar too long, take deeper seams at the front.
Wrinkles where notched collar joins to facing. The facing may have been eased onto the collar or carelessly joined. Perhaps the curved edge of the facing was not clipped properly or the collar was too long.
Rip the collar from the facing up to the shoulder line. Make certain the neck edge of the facing has been clipped in several places almost the depth of the seam allowance. Repin and baste collar and facing together again. If the collar still does not fit smoothly, shorten it by taking deeper seams at the ends. Trim seams to their usual width
Have you had any of these issues with the collar on a dress or shirt?
Happy Stitching!
Monday, February 27, 2017
Friday, February 24, 2017
More Dress Thoughts....
I happily purchased the McCall's 7464 today. Here's another view of the line drawing:
I poked around on fabric.com and came up with these consideration:
I like both combination but neither one feels particularly springy. I wonder if it really matters. I'll most likely wear if I like the way it fits and the colors. What do you think of the combinations? Have you seen other fabrics that might work? I generally try to stay in the black, grey, teal, navy, rose colorways.
Maybe I should fit the dress before picking out the fabric. I was going to order swatches but it would be $12 for the fabrics above and I'm sure there is shipping involved. A little more thought is required and I'm going to look around for other fabrics. Anyone have some suggestions for fabric stores?
Happy Stitching!
I like both combination but neither one feels particularly springy. I wonder if it really matters. I'll most likely wear if I like the way it fits and the colors. What do you think of the combinations? Have you seen other fabrics that might work? I generally try to stay in the black, grey, teal, navy, rose colorways.
Maybe I should fit the dress before picking out the fabric. I was going to order swatches but it would be $12 for the fabrics above and I'm sure there is shipping involved. A little more thought is required and I'm going to look around for other fabrics. Anyone have some suggestions for fabric stores?
Happy Stitching!
Thursday, February 23, 2017
Dress Thoughts.....
Today, I found this Phillip Lim dress at the Neiman Marcus website:
I'm really drawn to the styling on this dress. I really think that it is the shaping with the plaid and not the ruffles. I can assure you that it isn't the length. At $795, this dress isn't even a consideration and my size isn't available. One of the details on the dress is the outlining of the seams on the bodice/hip and sleeves. When zooming in, it looks like that detailing is a coverstitch. You might be able to fake it with a serger flatlocking if you don't own a coverstitch.
I found this McCall's pattern:
This is M7464. I think it would do pretty good duplicating the Philip Lim dress. What do you think? The sleeves need to be changed but that isn't particular hard. The waist needs to be identified. The Philip Lim version is made with a crepe in the solid area and the plaid isn't identified.
Lots to think about here but I think that I want something made from this pattern. I think I would need to play with colors to see if I'm still drawn to the styling or if it really is the plaid that I'm drawn to.
Okay, I'm off to see if I have an software that will allow the sort of playing that I'm wanting to do. I suppose if I don't paper and colored pencils will work. I want a new dress. Does anyone know of a software package that would allow the import of the line drawing and then color the portion the way you want?
Happy Stitching!
I'm really drawn to the styling on this dress. I really think that it is the shaping with the plaid and not the ruffles. I can assure you that it isn't the length. At $795, this dress isn't even a consideration and my size isn't available. One of the details on the dress is the outlining of the seams on the bodice/hip and sleeves. When zooming in, it looks like that detailing is a coverstitch. You might be able to fake it with a serger flatlocking if you don't own a coverstitch.
I found this McCall's pattern:
Lots to think about here but I think that I want something made from this pattern. I think I would need to play with colors to see if I'm still drawn to the styling or if it really is the plaid that I'm drawn to.
Okay, I'm off to see if I have an software that will allow the sort of playing that I'm wanting to do. I suppose if I don't paper and colored pencils will work. I want a new dress. Does anyone know of a software package that would allow the import of the line drawing and then color the portion the way you want?
Happy Stitching!
Monday, February 20, 2017
Fitting Dresses....Fitting the Neck and Shoulders Part 6 (long)
Continuing with the "Fitting Dresses" booklet from the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Wrinkles across back of neck. The back of the dress across the shoulders is too tight or the neck line may be too high (Figure 6, A). a cushion of fat on the back of the neck may cause this difficulty.
If the dress neck is too tight and high, cut the neck line deeper a the back. The collar, if used, will have to be lengthened so it corresponds to the new stitching line.
You may release some width at the back by shortening and narrowing any darts or tucks in the neck or shoulder line. If the back feels too tight, rip the sleeves from the back of the dress at least from the top of the shoulder to the underarm. Baste sleeves in again, taking a smaller seam from the back of the dress but not the sleeve. However, this can be done safely only if the material is firmly woven and the seam allowance is wide enough to withstand the strain across the back.
It may be necessary to rip and repin the shoulder seam, taking up more of the back seam near the neck line and less at the armhole, so as to keep the crosswise grain straight across the upper back (Figure 6, B). Keep the direction of the shoulder seam correct.
If none of these changes improve the fit of the dress, it may be because the dress is too small and a new back or yoke will have to be cut from the same or contrasting fabric.
Neck line bulges at front. The neck line may have been stretched or the garment cut too wide across the chest. The figure may have particularly flat chest.
If the neck line is only slightly stretched, place two rows of running stitches around the neck line --- one on the seam line and one just above Draw up until the neck line fits the neck closely (Figure 7, A). Adjust gathers, keeping the correct shoulder line and lengthwise grain at the center front and center back. Sometimes refitting the shoulder line will remove a slight bulge.
To fit a larger neck line bulge, rip the shoulder seam, smooth extra front fullness up and out into darts, tucks, or shirring in the front shoulder seam (Figure 7, B). Refit shoulder seams, keeping the seam-line direction correct and lengthwise yarns straight at center front and center back. This widens the front neck line, so there is less seam allowance for putting on the collar. If the bulge is so extreme that the neck line would be too wide, it may be necessary to fill in with a shaped band of cloth. Make this a part of the design of the dress or cover with the collar.
Neck line bulges at back. The garment is too wide at the neck line. The figure may be round-shouldered or have a roll of flesh at the back of the neck, causing the neck line to bulge.
If the bulge is slight, ease in extra fullness at the back neck line when putting on the facing or collar. Or, take in the fullness with small darts, tucks, or shirring at the back neck line before finishing it.
Neck line too wide and too low. If the neck line stands away from the sides of the neck, try taking deeper shoulder seams at the neck or using back and front neck line darts. In doing this, be careful not to draw the lengthwise or crosswise yarns of the goods out of line.
If the neck is too low in the front and if there is extra seam allowance at the lower front of the blouse, the entire front can be lifted. Rip shoulder and underarm seams. Raise front and refit shoulder seams. This will make the shoulder seam allowance on the front wider than the back. Raise front underarm seam above back underarm
seam as much as was raised on the shoulder (Figure 8). Mark a new neck line and armhole line. If these changes are not possible, build up the neck line in the front or at the sides and cover the piecing with a collar, facing or shaped band.
Neck line too high or too tight, with crosswise wrinkles in front or back. A large neck, plump figure, or poor posture may make the dress neck line too high and too snug. Or the front or back of the blouse may be too narrow near the neck line. Very carefully clip into the neck line at the tight places (Figure 9, A). do not clip into stitching line.
Or if this does not correct the difficulty, it is sometimes possible, after ripping the shoulder seam, to slip either the front or the back, as the case may be, toward the center (Figure 9, B). This relieves the tightness. Pin and baste the shoulder seams. Mark new neck line and armhole lines.
Any thoughts on these alterations?
Happy Stitching!
Wrinkles across back of neck. The back of the dress across the shoulders is too tight or the neck line may be too high (Figure 6, A). a cushion of fat on the back of the neck may cause this difficulty.
If the dress neck is too tight and high, cut the neck line deeper a the back. The collar, if used, will have to be lengthened so it corresponds to the new stitching line.
You may release some width at the back by shortening and narrowing any darts or tucks in the neck or shoulder line. If the back feels too tight, rip the sleeves from the back of the dress at least from the top of the shoulder to the underarm. Baste sleeves in again, taking a smaller seam from the back of the dress but not the sleeve. However, this can be done safely only if the material is firmly woven and the seam allowance is wide enough to withstand the strain across the back.
It may be necessary to rip and repin the shoulder seam, taking up more of the back seam near the neck line and less at the armhole, so as to keep the crosswise grain straight across the upper back (Figure 6, B). Keep the direction of the shoulder seam correct.
If none of these changes improve the fit of the dress, it may be because the dress is too small and a new back or yoke will have to be cut from the same or contrasting fabric.
Neck line bulges at front. The neck line may have been stretched or the garment cut too wide across the chest. The figure may have particularly flat chest.
If the neck line is only slightly stretched, place two rows of running stitches around the neck line --- one on the seam line and one just above Draw up until the neck line fits the neck closely (Figure 7, A). Adjust gathers, keeping the correct shoulder line and lengthwise grain at the center front and center back. Sometimes refitting the shoulder line will remove a slight bulge.
To fit a larger neck line bulge, rip the shoulder seam, smooth extra front fullness up and out into darts, tucks, or shirring in the front shoulder seam (Figure 7, B). Refit shoulder seams, keeping the seam-line direction correct and lengthwise yarns straight at center front and center back. This widens the front neck line, so there is less seam allowance for putting on the collar. If the bulge is so extreme that the neck line would be too wide, it may be necessary to fill in with a shaped band of cloth. Make this a part of the design of the dress or cover with the collar.
Neck line bulges at back. The garment is too wide at the neck line. The figure may be round-shouldered or have a roll of flesh at the back of the neck, causing the neck line to bulge.
If the bulge is slight, ease in extra fullness at the back neck line when putting on the facing or collar. Or, take in the fullness with small darts, tucks, or shirring at the back neck line before finishing it.
Neck line too wide and too low. If the neck line stands away from the sides of the neck, try taking deeper shoulder seams at the neck or using back and front neck line darts. In doing this, be careful not to draw the lengthwise or crosswise yarns of the goods out of line.
If the neck is too low in the front and if there is extra seam allowance at the lower front of the blouse, the entire front can be lifted. Rip shoulder and underarm seams. Raise front and refit shoulder seams. This will make the shoulder seam allowance on the front wider than the back. Raise front underarm seam above back underarm
Neck line too high or too tight, with crosswise wrinkles in front or back. A large neck, plump figure, or poor posture may make the dress neck line too high and too snug. Or the front or back of the blouse may be too narrow near the neck line. Very carefully clip into the neck line at the tight places (Figure 9, A). do not clip into stitching line.
Or if this does not correct the difficulty, it is sometimes possible, after ripping the shoulder seam, to slip either the front or the back, as the case may be, toward the center (Figure 9, B). This relieves the tightness. Pin and baste the shoulder seams. Mark new neck line and armhole lines.
Any thoughts on these alterations?
Happy Stitching!
Thursday, February 16, 2017
Crochet on Your Sewing Machine....
Tuesday, I got an email from Sulky on "How to Crotchet using Your Sewing Machine". Well, first I thought that it was at 9am and sometime during the day I realized that it was 9pm. So, I signed up. What's an hour of my time when I could potentially learn a new technique?
Last night, I pulled out a piece of denim and some 30 wt thread and played. Here are my results:
Selecting the correct stitches is certainly important with this technique. On the left side, the stitches didn't meet up exactly the way they are suppose to and knowing that I didn't have good attachment to the denim I didn't add many stitches. I have high hopes for the stitches on the right side. Now, it's off to see what happens when I wash out the water soluble stabilizer. Here are the results:
You can see that there are places on the left where the stitches aren't attached to anything and doesn't look too good. However, not a bad first attempt. The right side looks pretty and is a definite improvement over the left side. This technique is definitely something that you would want to practice before using on a project.
I can definitely see a use for this technique - edges on home dec, pretty edges on clothing, etc. The 30 wt thread doesn't really do this technique justice. If I can find some 12 wt thread locally, I think I'm going to play some more. Also, the denim is a little heavier fabric than what you really need for this technique. Most likely, something the weight of chambray or linen would work better.
If you're really interested in this technique, look up Cindy Losekamp. She was the one who gave the seminar for Sulky.
Have you tried this technique? What are you thoughts on the technique?
Happy Stitching!
Last night, I pulled out a piece of denim and some 30 wt thread and played. Here are my results:
Selecting the correct stitches is certainly important with this technique. On the left side, the stitches didn't meet up exactly the way they are suppose to and knowing that I didn't have good attachment to the denim I didn't add many stitches. I have high hopes for the stitches on the right side. Now, it's off to see what happens when I wash out the water soluble stabilizer. Here are the results:
You can see that there are places on the left where the stitches aren't attached to anything and doesn't look too good. However, not a bad first attempt. The right side looks pretty and is a definite improvement over the left side. This technique is definitely something that you would want to practice before using on a project.
I can definitely see a use for this technique - edges on home dec, pretty edges on clothing, etc. The 30 wt thread doesn't really do this technique justice. If I can find some 12 wt thread locally, I think I'm going to play some more. Also, the denim is a little heavier fabric than what you really need for this technique. Most likely, something the weight of chambray or linen would work better.
If you're really interested in this technique, look up Cindy Losekamp. She was the one who gave the seminar for Sulky.
Have you tried this technique? What are you thoughts on the technique?
Happy Stitching!
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