Pinstitch or Pickstitch or Prickstitch...

 Monday,  I shared a inspiration photo of a coat with a "pinstitch" detail.   Now, I thought this was going to be very straight ward to locate information on how to do this.  Guess what?  It was not.   I found tutorial for pin stitching in cross stitch, and heirloom pin stitch.  There were many of these types of tutorials available.  However, where is the information for using a pin stitch on a garment for top stitching or applying a zipper?  I was puzzled.  Perhaps I was using the incorrect term.

As it turns out, indeed it is the incorrect term. Pinstitch as used on the coat is called Pickstitch in the sewing world.  Here's a video from Threads - How to Sew a Pickstitch.  Here's another version - The Pickstitch.  This version also mentions that it can be called a prickstitch.

I found mention of this stitch in The Vogue/Butterick Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing Techniques circa 1989, and Sewing Couture - The Couture Cardigan Jacket by Claire Shaeffer circa 2013.  No doubt if I dug through more of the books in my library I would find more references.

Hope this information is useful.

Happy Stitching.

Technique For Hand Sewing Snaps...

One of the things that need to be considered for the Rhett jacket is finishing technique.  The jacket takes 3/4" buttons.  I am considering using snaps instead of buttons.   I was thinking that the Alabama Chanin way of hand sewing snaps would look interesting on the jacket.  I started looking for information on the technique for sewing the snaps on.  I really thought that it would be super easy to find and a tutorial could be found on the Alabama Chanin blog.  I was wrong.  Here is the information that has been found:

1.  Alabama Chanin Covered Snaps

2.  Alabama Chanin instructions on how to sew a snap on

The information from both of these posts may very well work for my jacket.  Let's see what happens when I get to the point where I can actually make a decision on this.   

Hope you found this information interesting.

Happy Stitching!

Crochet on Your Sewing Machine....

Tuesday, I got an email from Sulky on "How to Crotchet using Your Sewing Machine".  Well, first I thought that it was at 9am and sometime during the day I realized that it was 9pm.  So, I signed up.  What's an hour of my time when I could potentially learn a new technique?

Last night, I pulled out a piece of denim and some 30 wt thread and played.  Here are my results:

 Selecting the correct stitches is certainly important with this technique.  On the left side, the stitches didn't meet up exactly the way they are suppose to and knowing that I didn't have good attachment to the denim I didn't add many stitches.  I have high hopes for the stitches on the right side.  Now, it's off to see what happens when I wash out the water soluble stabilizer.  Here are the results:

You can see that there are places on the left where the stitches aren't attached to anything and doesn't look too good.  However, not a bad first attempt.  The right side looks pretty and is a definite improvement over the left side. This technique is definitely something that you would want to practice before using on a project.

I can definitely see a use for this technique - edges on home dec, pretty edges on clothing, etc.   The 30 wt thread doesn't really do this technique justice.  If I can find some 12 wt thread locally, I think I'm going to play some more.  Also, the denim is a little heavier fabric than what you really need for this technique.  Most likely, something the weight of chambray or linen would work better.

If you're really interested in this technique, look up Cindy Losekamp.  She was the one who gave the seminar for Sulky.

Have you tried this technique?  What are you thoughts on the technique?

Happy Stitching!

Technique...Sewing Curves

This past Saturday was sewing day with my sewing buddy.  This month was about curves.  I had purchased a new foot that I wanted to explore.  It is the 1/4" Curve Master Presser Foot.  Here's what it looks like:

The package on the left contains adapters to fit most machines.  The foot is on the left.  Notice how short it is.  I had previously done a post on this foot that contains links to how-to videos.  Here's a link to that post -  Curve Master Presser Foot.  This post contains links to the product and various other videos by the manufacturer.  Since this foot is meant to do curves, I decided to purchase a Drunkard's Path template set:

This was the first time I've used a template set with a rotary cutter. It turned out well and without any incidents.  Here's my first attempts at using the Curve Master Presser Foot:

Of the eight blocks that I did, I had problems with two of them.  One, I made the dumb user error of sewing right side to wrong side.  The other, I think that I stretched the corner piece.  I was impressed with this foot.   I was able to sew the blocks without any pins and they look good.  I haven't decided yet what I'm going to make with these blocks but I think I have enough of fabric to create either a table runner or some place mats,

The next type of curve we tried was the free form curves.  We both really liked this technique.  We watched the video from Man Sewing on curved piecing.  Looks easy doesn't it?  I started with two fat quarters and here are my results:

How fun is this?  I used a regular presser foot with this technique following the instructions from Man Sewing.  I did try the 1/4" curve presser foot with one row of stitching and I preferred to use the regular presser foot for my machine on this technique.  I haven't decided what I'm going to make with these two items or if I'm going to continue the technique all the way across.  There is still a few decisions to make.  I have about 3/4 yard of each fabric left.

The one thing that I did learn is not to hold the fabrics together as you would with most sewing.  Of course, that means that you're using both hands to hold the fabric but it works well.  Just take your time and enjoy the process.  

Happy Sewing!

Bust Darts….

Are you a person that needs to make adjustments to every pattern that comes into your space?  I mostly am.  That means that I should but don’t necessarily always do it.  Do you know when you need a bust dart?  Well,  a few telling signs are when the front is always shorter than the back or the side, the little gathering around the side bust, the little pleat that hangs from the bust to the side seam, and when the front swings forward away from the body.

There is tons of information on the net regarding how to add a bust dart but how do you know it’s correct?   Is the answer it depends on where you start?  If you’re starting with a pattern that has the correct width for your bust, why would you add additional width when adding a dart?  I can see adding additional width when you start with a pattern that is smaller than you.   Most of the information that I see about bust darts are adding width and length.   Here an example of Full Bust Adjustment (this is a link) from Sew News.

Have you ever wondered how to add a bust adjustment when you don’t need to add width?  I have always done the easy method of just cutting the pattern across approximately where the apex is and adding the length that I want.  This method works best with knits because you generally ease in the extra length with very little gathering or an actual dart.  No, I don’t think this is a recommended method.  In researching this question, I came across “Sabrina Student Designer” blog and the “How to Calculate Your Bust Dart Size” (this is a link).  Great information in this article.  Warning you might need a calculator for this one.  This information sounds like the information that Peggy Sagers uses in her patterns.  I plan on using the information to determine the cup size with my next Silhouettes top pattern.   I will let you know if it was of any use.   When I was reading the comments from the above article, there was a reference to another tutorial on "How to add a dart to a dartless pattern" (this is a link).  This is a very good article, also.

Do you have a favorite method for adding darts or reducing a dart?

Happy Stitching!