Inspiration...Plaid Jacket

 How about a plaid jacket for fall/winter?  This is more like a suit jacket.  Here it is:

This is the Button-Down Woven Plaid Jacket by Lafayette 148 New York. Price tag: $1498.00.  Details: plaid woven jacket with woven buttons, crew neck, button front, long sleeves, buttoned chest patch pockets, relaxed fit, wool/cotton/nylon/polyamide, fill - thermal pad.  Model is 5'10".

I am really drawn to this type of jacket.  I love the fabric type.  I am not crazy for this particular colorway but that is why I sew.  I get to pick my own fabric.

If you are looking for a pattern, they are hard to find.  Vogue has a basic pattern of this type but it does not have button up the front.  My suggestion is look for a Claire Shaeffer jacket pattern, if you can find one that is affordable. There is a Freddie Jacket pdf pattern by Bella Loves Patterns on Etsy that looks reasonably close.  I do know know anything about that pattern company but the patterns are more reasonable than the prices I was seeing for the Claire Shaeffer patterns.  Silhouette Patterns has the Janie Jacket which is similar but you might need to add the button area.  

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Silk Blouse

 Well we have seen jackets and skirts for fall, here is a blouse:

This is the Scottie Graphic-Print Silk Twill Blouse by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $798.00.  Details:  this features a hand painted silk, approximately 27" from shoulder to hem, spread collar, concealed button front, long sleeves, button cuffs, box pleat back yoke, relaxed fit, silk, dry clean.  Model is approximately 5'10".

I am going to recommend my favorite shirt pattern as I have it already fitted:

This is the Liesl & Co Class Shirt pattern.  I have found it to be a well drafted pattern.  Changes would be to add the hidden shirt placket.  I think that is it.

If you really want the silk twill, it can be had on many websites starting around $30 per yard.  Personally, I would go for a easier care version in a polyester blend of some sort.  Although silk care be washed safely at home if you are careful.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Blazer

 Fall is just around the corner and it is time to start planning the fall/winter wardrobe.  A good addition would be a jacket.  This one is perfect:

This is the Single Button Pick Stitch Blazer by Lafayette 148 New York. Price tag: $1,498.00. Details: Approximately 25-inches from shoulder to hem, notched lapel, single button front, long sleeves, vertical waist darts, front welt pockets, relaxed fit, wool/elastane, dry clean. Model is 5' 10".

As you can tell by the price tag, jackets are a great item to make and save a little or a lot.  Peggy Sagers at Silhouette Patterns has a lot of jacket patterns but amazingly not of them are exactly right for duplicate this pattern.  However, this pattern from Vogue does do a good job:

This is Vogue 1870. You get the jacket and the pants.  The pants are flared which are very different the Lafayette 148 New York version but that flare can always be removed.  This is a style choice for you to make.  The lapel is a little bit different as well.

Here is another jacket pattern that might be a little closer to the inspiration:

This is the Jasika Blazer pattern by Closet Core Patterns.  It is a classic pattern and the exception of the lower edge of the front jacket matches very well to the inspiration.  That area of the jacket could easily be modified.

As always if you have a jacket/blazer pattern already fitted, use that and save the money for fabulous fabric.  Make some matching pants.  The Lafayette 148 New York pair are $898.00.  We can make and fit pants that cost way less than that even if purchased very expensive fabric.  Right?  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Maxi Skirt

 There is just something about a pencil skirt.  I love pencil skirt and wore them all the time when I was a young professional.  I would love to own this skirt:

This is the Straight Houndstooth Maxi Skirt by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $698.00.  Details:  center back slit, hem falls below knee, skirt falls straight from hip to hem, invisible back zipper, wool/acrylic/nylon/polyamide, dry clean.

I love the look of this skirt.  I do not love the price or the actual fabric type.  I do not want a dry clean only fabric in a skirt.  This skirt does not look like it has a waistband.  Take a close up look at the skirt at Neiman Marcus.  If I was making this skirt, I would follow the instructions for a narrow waistband here.  Otherwise, be sure to use a petersham ribbon like the one sold at The Sewing Place.  This ribbon is colorfast and 100% rayon. 

Here is a few patterns to consider:

This is New Look 6697. It is pretty close to the inspiration photo with the exception that is actually has a waistband.  Bonus: you get a little crop top pattern.

This is McCall's 8004.  This pattern has three skirt versions.  View C is closest to the inspiration skirt.  This one has pleats instead of darts plus a waistband.  

This is Butterick 6746.  This pattern gives you several variations.  View A or B lengthened and a slit added would be very close to the inspiration skirt.

Houndstooth fabric is fairly easy to find.  Since you are making this, you are not limited to the black and white.  Make it your's.

Happy Stitching!

Muslin Dana Point Top...

 I recently purchased the Itch to Stitch Dana Point Top pdf.  It was a summer special. I decided to play with fit up front before cutting any fabric.  When we purchase patterns, we usually purchase by the horizontal measurements but the vertical measurements are just as important.  So, I decided to follow along with the Lifting Pins and Needles "Let's Sew Our Best Fitting Top" series.  To follow along with the series, work from the bottom upward. 

Here is a line drawing of the Itch to Stitch Dana Point Top pdf:

I decided to print a size 12 and 16.  I used the 12 in the top portion and the 16 from the armscye to bottom.  Here are the changes that I made based on the measurements that I took:

1.  Took 1-inch out of the front armscye.

2.   Took 3/4-inch from the area just above the bust dart front and back.

3.  Add 1/4-inch at the waist front and back.

All of these changes make the assumption that I took all of my vertical measurements correctly.  I did remeasure with each change that I made as I made the changes starting from the shoulder. I did pick and incredibly terrible polyester fabric from my stash to make this muslin.  Here is the first muslin:

When I made this I purposefully put the details on the outside and hemmed the neck and armscye.  The neckline is really puffy, the dart is too long, and the whole dart seems to be too high.  Then, I decided that the top could really benefit from me turning it to the inside out so that the pleats and dart would be inside.  Unfortunately that means that all of my level markings are no longer visible.  Here is the top turned:

The top looks a little better with the pleats to the inside.  However, you can really see that the top is swinging forward and out.  No doubt in my mind that I need to add more length but it looks like a lot of length and I'm not sure I can fix it.  It feels like adding the length will mess with the pleat placement on the belly. Maybe I'm wrong was the waist line is pointed upward.  

Maybe I will look around and see if I can find a draping, lightweight fabric and do another muslin.  A drapier fabric will allow the pleats to hang better.  What are you thoughts?

Happy Stitching!