Stripes...

I was out browsing this past weekend and found these men's tops:

What do you think of the way these stripes have been done?  I'm not sure that I like the purposeful re-aligning of the stripe.  It seems jarring to the eye.  The use of the narrow stripe as the band was a really good choice.  That stripe is carefully matched.  Another thing I noticed about these tops was the fabric.  It was so thin that you could see through two layers.  I know for a fact that my son would not wear this just due to the thinness of the fabric.

Stripes are on trend for spring.  I'm just not sure I'm up for the totally mismatched look. If you decide to try this, don't forget to add you seam allowances at the center front and center back.

Are we going to see plaids done the exact same way in the future?

Thoughts?

Happy Stitching!

Fitting Dresses...Fitting the Bust and Back, Part 8

Continuing with the "Fitting Dresses" booklet from the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Fitting the Bust and Back

The comfort of the waist of a dress depends much on the fit over the bust and across the back.  Avoid extremes of fit -- too tight is neither comfortable or attractive; too loose looks untidy.  If the wearer has a large bust but small abdomen and hips, fit the dress a little loosely below the bust so the blouse does not outline the bust too closely.  Be sure there is enough fullness under the bust in front and enough room for the shoulder blades in the back.  The center front and back may be smooth and free from gathers unless the style calls for a different effect.  Taking in or releasing darts at the waistline may improve the fit.

Cloth draws across bust.  If the dress draws across the bust perhaps the grain of the goods has been dropped or raised on either side of the bust.  Or the waist may have been cut too narrow at the bust line.  These troubles usually appear when the figure is overly erect or has a large bust.

If the crosswise grain of the goods is straight but still the waist looks drawn, let out the front (or both back and front) underarm seams until the waist fits easily.  When the seam allowance is too small to let out underarm seams, set in a straight matched or bias piece of cloth at the underarm seam for extra width.  Let out the underarm seams in the sleeves accordingly or if necessary, set in a piece here, too.

If the grain of the goods is not right, rip the underarm seams and try changing the size and position of the underarm darts and the location of the fullness at the waist.  If the dress has no underarm dart, and the waist length permits, it may help to place one or more darts in the front edge of the underarm seam in line with the bust.

Diagonal wrinkles from bust line to underarm waistline.  The lower front 

edge of the blouse swings out and up.  The underarm seam swings to the front (figure 10 A).  Then often occurs when the figure is overly erect or has a prominent bust.  Such figures require more length than the pattern allowed between the shoulder and bust or between bust and waistline, depending upon the height of the bust.

If the waist of the dress does not reach the waistline in the center front, the pattern must be altered and a new front cut.  When there is sufficient length, rip open the underarm and shoulder seams.  Let down the center front of the waist by tapering the seam allowance on the front shoulder to 1/4 inch at the neck edge.  Then lift the lower waist front with one or more darts at the underarm.  (figure 10 B)  In addition, more fullness in gathers or darts may be needed under the bust.  Let out the front side of the underarm seam.  This gives width across the bust and allows additional fullness under the bust.  The seam allowance on the back is left unchanged.

An undesirable fold or fullness at armhole in front near chest line.  A figure with a prominent shoulder bone and full bust often has a hollow place near the armhole.  The dress may puff out there (figure 11 A).  This is more prominent if the armhole seam is too high at the armpit.  (see future reference)

If the armhole seam allowance is wide enough at the front shoulder line, remove the puff with a front shoulder dart.  Pin, baste, and fit again.  If the seam allowance is skimpy, rip shoulder and underarm seams.  Raise the shoulder in the front more at the armhole, tapering the seam to nothing at the neck (figure 11 B).  

The puff can also be removed by the armhole dart in the lower half of the front armhole, extending down as far as possible toward the bust.  This gives a close-fitting armhole.  Or if the puff is small, sometimes it can be "shrunk" out before setting in the sleeve.  Or it can be held in place with a row of small backstitches next to the seam line.

Thoughts?  Have you done any of these types of alterations instinctively while making a dress?

Happy Sewing!

Fitting Dresses....Collar Difficulties, Part 7

Continuing with the "Fitting Dresses" booklet from the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Collar Difficulties

Neck line seam shows where flat collar is attached.  This inside collar line may be longer than the neck line.  This may be caused by failing to alter the collar after changing the neck line. 

Rip the collar from the dress.  Measure the dress neck line accurately from center back to center front, holding the edge of the measuring tape along the seam line.  The stitching line of the collar should be twice this length. Take out the difference on each side of the center front of the collar. Pin the collar to the neck line and baste, easing the neck line slightly and holding the collar taut.  Try on the dress again and be sure it is satisfactory before stitching.

Convertible collar stands away from the neck.  The collar is too long for the dress neck line or the latter is too large.  

Rip the collar from the dress.   If the dress neck line fits correctly, measure it carefully along the stitching line.  Then measure the inside collar length.  If these measurements are not the same, take off the extra collar length at the ends.  Pin the collar back in place and bast to the neck line.  Try on the dress and see if the collar fits properly before stitching.

Straight collar rolls too high and rides the back of the neck.  The inside collar line may be too straight or the neck line of the dress is too high at the back.  

Rip the collar from the dress.  If the neck line is much too high, trim it out slightly at the back.  Otherwise, try basting the collar on with a seam deep enough to reduce the roll of the collar at the back.  Or trim off the back of the collar.  If this makes the collar too long, take deeper seams at the front.

Wrinkles where notched collar joins to facing.  The facing may have been eased onto the collar or carelessly joined.  Perhaps the curved edge of the facing was not clipped properly or the collar was too long.

Rip the collar from the facing up to the shoulder line.  Make certain the neck edge of the facing has been clipped in several places almost the depth of the seam allowance.  Repin and baste collar and facing together again.  If the collar still does not fit smoothly, shorten it by taking deeper seams at the ends.  Trim seams to their usual width



Have you had any of these issues with the collar on a dress or shirt?

Happy Stitching!

More Dress Thoughts....

I happily purchased the McCall's 7464 today.  Here's another view of the line drawing:

I poked around on fabric.com and came up with these consideration:

I like both combination but neither one feels particularly springy.  I wonder if it really matters.  I'll most likely wear if I like the way it fits and the colors.  What do you think of the combinations?  Have you seen other fabrics that might work?  I generally try to stay in the black, grey, teal, navy, rose colorways.

Maybe I should fit the dress before picking out the fabric.  I was going to order swatches but it would be $12 for the fabrics above and I'm sure there is shipping involved.  A little more thought is required and I'm going to look around for other fabrics.  Anyone have some suggestions for fabric stores?

Happy Stitching!

Dress Thoughts.....

Today, I found this Phillip Lim dress at the Neiman Marcus website:

I'm really drawn to the styling on this dress.  I really think that it is the shaping with the plaid and not the ruffles.  I can assure you that it isn't the length.  At $795, this dress isn't even a consideration and my size isn't available.  One of the details on the dress is the outlining of the seams on the bodice/hip and sleeves.  When zooming in, it looks like that detailing is a coverstitch.  You might be able to fake it with a serger flatlocking if you don't own a coverstitch.

I found this McCall's pattern:

This is M7464.  I think it would do pretty good duplicating the Philip Lim dress.  What do you think? The sleeves need to be changed but that isn't particular hard.  The waist needs to be identified.  The Philip Lim version is made with a crepe in the solid area and the plaid isn't identified.

Lots to think about here but I think that I want something made from this pattern.  I think I would need to play with colors to see if I'm still drawn to the styling or if it really is the plaid that I'm drawn to.

Okay, I'm off to see if I have an software that will allow the sort of playing that I'm wanting to do.  I suppose if I don't paper and colored pencils will work.  I want a new dress.  Does anyone know of a software package that would allow the import of the line drawing and then color the portion the way you want?

Happy Stitching!