Amy's Skirt...

I have collected many Silhouettes patterns.  I have no idea how long I've had this pattern:

I have decided that this will be my next new skirt - Amy's Skirt pattern by Silhouettes.  I purchased this fabric from fabric (dot) com:

This is a grey Brussels Washer Linen.  I decided to line the skirt in a white batiste.  When preparing the pattern, I noticed that the grain line was different between the 1-4 sizing and the 5w-8w sizing.  So, asked Peggy which was correct.  Here's her response:  "It can be done either way, the skirt hangs a bit different, but both are fine....your call.....The reason we did it different is the larger size some times will not fit on the fabric, we so alter it slightly....hope that helps."  Here's the finished skirt:

This is the skirt front.

This is the skirt back.

Sorry for the hanger pictures but the photographer isn't around and I can't take a skirt picture in any of the mirrors.  If I pose with it in the future, I will link to it.

This skirt feels big.  I followed the fitting instructions.  I had my husband measure the depth of the seam where I pinned and thought it was snug.  I took a deeper seam than the measurement my husband gave me.  Still it feels like it's big.  I think I could have taken another inch off and it would have been good.  The conclusion is that I started with the wrong size.  Had I realized it a bit earlier in the sewing sequence I could have taken in a bit at the side seams.  The only thing that would keep me from wearing it is weight loss.

Conclusions:

1.  This is not a beginner pattern.  Maybe an advance beginner.
2.  This is a nice fitting skirt.
3.  The skirt is lined and there is no mention of this on the envelope.
4.  Fitting/zipper finish is different.
5.  I will make another version of this skirt.


Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Pencil Skirt

There is something about a pencil skirt.  Even with 2 or 3 in my closet, I can always add another one:

This is the Boden Richmond Pencil Skirt.  Price tag: $110.00.  For a closer look, go to Nordstrom website.  Don't forget to scroll down to the bottom to see another outfit.  It really is a basic pencil.  This type of skirt takes one yard of 60" wide fabric plus lining fabric.  This skirt is a stretch woven and at the length shown needs to kick pleat.  Let's check out patterns:

This is Butterick 5466 - basic misses straight skirts.  View A would be a close match.  You would need to add length and a kick pleat.  I found kick pleat directions here.

This is McCall's 7631.  This is a basic skirt pattern with 2 variations - a straight skirt and an a-line skirt.  View B matches the inspiration photo.  If you want the same style of kick pleat use the instructions listed above. 

This is Silhouettes 2009.  This is a straight skirt.  I know it doesn't look the same as the inspiration photo but it is.  Move the kick pleat to the back by putting the front piece on the fold and the back piece not on the fold.  Follow the directions for the kick pleat above.  I would guess that this skirt has lining instructions.

For the lining, use the skirt pattern pieces minus the hems.  The lining with kick pleat will be slightly modified.  Here's a tutorial - here.

For a better silhouette, slightly peg the hem.  Here's a blog post talking about pegging a skirt - here.  How much you peg the hem on a skirt is a personal preference.  Just remember you don't want the vent opening up.

As always, if you have a pattern that works, use it.  Save those dollars for more fabric.

Hope your inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Linen Skirt

Still looking for cool and comfortable for summer?  Skirts are always a cool option:

This is the Summer Fling Linen Blend Skirt by Nic & Zoe.  Price tag:  $118.00.  If you want a closer look, head over to Nordstom and do a search.  Check out the skirt and then scroll to the bottom of the page.  There is a "Looks" at there with suggested items to create an outfit.

Back to the skirt, it is bias cut linen/rayon blend with a invisible side zipper. To help with fit, there is shirred elastic at the back waist line.  If you zoom in on the hem, you will see that it has been left unhemmed.  Here's a couple of patterns that will give you a similar look without the back waist shirring:

This is Amy's Skirt pattern by Silhouettes.  It's an a-line skirt with a yoke, front/back seam, back zipper, and lined.  It is a pretty good match for the inspiration photo.  To make it bias, use a ruler and redraw the grain line to a 45 degree.  To remove the front and/or back seam, you will need to duplicate the pattern pieces to create 1 piece for each.  This will create a need for more fabric.  I would not put the lining on the bias.

This is Joyces' Almost Bias Skirt pattern by Silhouettes.  It's an a-line skirt with a yoke, front seam, 3-seams in back, and back zipper.  It might be lined. 

If your interested in the silhouette and knit, this pattern would be good also:

This is the Three-Piece Yoga Skirt pattern by Silhouettes.  This is a pull-on a-line skirt. 

Hope you're inspired to make something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Ironing Board Cover...

It has been years since I made a ironing board cover.  At that time, I should have made more than one but I didn't and have regretted it ever since.  Why? because I haven't really felt like making another one.  Unfortunately, I had a hard time finding an ironing board cover that would fit my ironing board.  I tried at Target but returned every one that I purchased because even though the package said it would fit (i.e., 54" length) there was no way to get it on the ironing board because it was too short.  I finally gave up.  Then, sent the old ironing board cover that I had made through the wash which amazingly it survived.

Fast forward, I'm walking through Walmart and find this:

Isn't this a cute ironing board cover?  It's Better Homes & Garden version found here.  So, I decided to give it a try and it fits!  I don't know how well it will work but it looks much nicer than my very stained old ironing board cover.  I'm use to a cotton cover with cotton padding and the new cover is cotton cover with polyester padding. I didn't spend much on it so if it's a fail it won't hurt much.  It will certainly push me to make another cover.  I'm sure it I look I will find some more canvas somewhere in the stash.

Happy Stitching!

Removing Shoulder Pad From a Blouse Pattern...

Recently, I was working on a blouse from the 90s.  It called for a 5/8" shoulder pad.  I didn't want a shoulder pad so following is how I went about removing the shoulder pad from the pattern pieces.  Let's start with the sleeve:

Here I have traced the sleeve that I want to use.  Knowing that I needed to remove the 5/8" shoulder pad, I used a 6"x 24" ruler (affiliate link) to draw the lines across the cap.  Note that I drew them above the notches but low enough that I could use the straight of grain marking as a guide.  The lines are 5/8" apart. 

Here I cut out the bottom potion of the sleeve.  Leaving the top portion uncut just in case I need some of the extra pattern paper.  I creased the top line and folded it down to the bottom line. 

Using a design curve (affiliate link), I redrew the curve of the sleeve cap.   I started just above the notch area and rotated the curve until it met the original line above the fold line on the cap.  This is to create a smooth line.

Here's the sleeve without the curve in the way.

Finished sleeve with the fold line taped down and the top portion cut out.   This is the same alteration that you would use anytime that you are reducing the length of a bodice above the notches on the armscye.  That modification can also be known a petite alteration.

Here's the front/back bodice:

Here's the front and the back pattern pieces.  I have marked where the 1/2" seam is on the sleeve and the 5/8" down from the shoulder seam at the sleeve seam line.  Here's a close up of the changes:

So this shows the changes to the shoulder seam.  Basically, you remove the needed about at the armscye to nothing at the neckline.   This is the same alteration that you would use to change the slope of the shoulder.  Remember that seam is really just a sewn dart.

The two rulers that I mentioned using above are really a necessity when you start making alterations to patterns.  Sometimes you can find that second hand a sales. 

Hope you find this helpful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Cardigan, Tank, and Skirt

Let's continue the linen theme from last week.  Here's a nice little outfit:

This is the Shine Open-Front, Bracelet-Length Crop Cardigan, Organic Handkerchief Linen Camisole, and Organic Linen A-Line Side-Slit Midi Skirt.  Price tags:  Cardigan - $248.00, Camisole - $118.00, Skirt - $178.00.  Let's see what we can do to duplicate this.

For the cardigan:

This is Silhouettes 195 Sweater Set.  It is a base pattern.  Once this is fitted, the neck line can be changed, the sleeve length shortened, and overall length cropped.

For the camisole - I was unable to locate a woven camisole pattern.  I know they exist.  So, I'm substituting a tank -

This is Silhouettes 514 4-way Tank Top.   This top is a bit fiddly for fitting but once you have it there are many options.  Remember the neckline shaping is fairly easy to change.

For the skirt -

This is the Loes Hinse Skirt Trio pattern.   View C is the version you would want.  All you need to do is add the slits.

Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Double-Eye Machine Needle...

I recently received the June/July 2019 issue of Threads.  Unfortunately, I'm generally luke warm about receiving this magazine anymore.  It just haven't sparked much interest in the last couple of years.   However, this issue has a couple of interesting articles.  The first on being "The Double-Eye Machine Needle".  This caught my attention because I hadn't seen nor heard of this type of needle before.  It's just a little two-page article but it is stuffed full of information.  Here's the Schmetz version:

I found the Schmetz double needle at Create For Less (affiliate link).  There is a $10 minimum at this site but I'm sure I can find something else that is needed in my sewing room like a tape measure. 

There were two things in the article that really had my attention.  The first one was the single-thread basting ability.  Who doesn't like to baste to check the fit on garments?  The second one was for top stitching.  Many top stitching threads don't come in a lot of colors.  However, using this needle you can easily use two strands of thread at once.  This would make you top stitching stand out a bit more than with regular thread.  Using decorative stitches with the needle could be interesting also but that would be after playing with the other two options.

Remember slow down, take your time, or your machine may not grab both thread.  In the 80s and 90s, I owned a sewing machine that had a special needle that would do a long basting stitch.  It was a useful stitch. 

So, I'm intrigued by this needle.  I will be ordering something very soon.  I'll show my samples.  I want to play with the top stitching both a single stitch and a triple stitch, and the basting stitch.

Have you used this needle type?  Did it work out well for you?  If not, what were the issues?

Happy Stitching!

Summer Buttericks...

The summer Butterick patterns have been released.  Here's the patterns that I found interesting:

This is Butterick 6684.  It's a tie-neck blouse.  It seems that it would work best in a drapey fabric.  I really like views A and C.  I'm not sure about the ruffles on the blouses for myself.

This is Butterick 6680.  It is a dress with interesting seaming and side gathers.

Hope you're inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Linen Shirt and Pants

Warm weather is fast approaching.  Are you ready?  After experiencing my first Arkansas summer in more than 25 years last summer, I'm wanting to have a closet full of clothing that will help keep me cool and comfortable.  Here's another pick for summer:

This is Eileen Fisher Button-Down Short-Sleeve Organic Linen Shirt and Min-Stripe Drawstring Straight-Line Organic Linen Crop Pants.  Price tag:  Shirt - $158.00, Pants - $178.00.  If you want a closer look, these can be found at Neiman Marcus.

Doesn't this look like it was be cool and comfy?  Linen clothing what's not to love except for the wrinkles. Let's see what patterns we can find for this silhouette:

For the pants:

This is McCall's 7364.  View D or View E would work for the inspiration photo.  Main difference is that the pant has side pockets and doesn't have elastic.  Both are easy to remedy.

For the shirt:

This is Simplicity 8837.  View D would work for the inspiration photo.  The only thing I'm a little concerned with here is the collar.  I'm sure it can be modified.


Hope you are inspired to create something beautiful.

Happy Stitching!

Summer Vogues...

The summer Vogue Patterns have been released.  As always, it it interesting to the new patterns.  Here's the patterns that I found to be interesting:

This is Vogue 9369.  A dress pattern by Claire Shaeffer.  This dress is probably a little outside my comfort zone but I do love a dress with interesting seaming.  I doubt that you will be able to see the interesting seaming with a print but a stripe may show it off well.

This is Vogue 9370.  This tunic/dress has an interesting collar along with the asymmetrical closure.  I might consider adding this to the collection for tunic.

 This is Vogue 1629.  It is two different and interesting blouse patterns.  I really like both of them.  I also think that each is distinct enough that only one of each would be in the wardrobe at any given time.    I really do think I will purchase this pattern.

This is Vogue 1622.  This is a unisex top pattern.   The short sleeve top has interesting seaming.  The long sleeve shirt appears to a be standard shirt pattern.   I think I will be purchasing the pattern also.

What do you think of this release of patterns?

Happy Stitching!

The Factory Dress...

I've had my eye on The Factory dress pattern by Merchant and Mills forever (this is an affiliate link but it's the best price I found) .  Here's the front cover:

I thought this would be a great dress for the long, hot summer that is coming.  I did read through the many reviews on line and the biggest complaint was generous sizing.   I'm okay with that I think.  Loose fitting would indicate that it would be cool to wear.  It could also indicate that it is not flattering but do you really care when it's a 100 degrees outside and the air conditioning just can't cool well enough?  I don't.

So, knowing that there could be some darting issues I started with a bodice muslin to see if added length was needed:  Here's the results:

Sorry, no photo with the muslin on. There was too much belly showing.  Amazingly, the fit wasn't too bad.  I need to add about 3-inches in length for the dart.  I will shortening the dart length by about 1/2-inch.  The neck opening will be raised by an inch.   I will add 1/2-inch for rounded back.

I dug around in the fabric stash and found a navy fineline twill.  I think it is a cotton blend.

Here are the final results:

After making the dress, I decided to add a bit of embellishment.  I did a simple running stitch using navy Pearl Cotton in size 8.   I like the way it turned out.  Here's a close up of the embellishment on the collar:

Conclusion:

This is a very easy item to sew.  I did not have the same issues that others seemed to have with this pattern.  Maybe my fabric was more forgiving.  It does have a roomy fit.  Perfect for summer.

I do think that there will be a second dress.

Happy Stitching!