How to add a zipper to a pillow cover

This is a quick and easy way to put a zipper into a pillow:

Step 1. Finish the straight edges of the 2 pillow backs. It doesn't matter how if it's done with a zigzag or a serger. It could even be done with pinking shears. Whatever is available. I finish these edges so that they do not ravel in to the process of putting the pillow form into the pillow.

Step 2. Press the edges back. The picture above, the narrow piece has 1/2" fold and the larger piece has a 1" fold.

Step 3. Press, if necessary, and open the zipper. I am a big fan of wonder tape. It is 1/4" wide and sticky on both sides. Here I have applied it along the zipper tape using one of the threads for placement. Test that the zipper pull will pass by the tape without hitting it. (You don't have to use the Wonder Tape but it is a wonderful product.)

Step 4. Close the zipper and take the narrow piece of the pillow back. Carefully push the fabric to the zipper where you have applied the Wonder Tape. You want this to be as straight as possible. Check again that the zipper will open without bumping into the fabric. (If you have chosen not to use the Wonder tape, carefully baste your fabric to your zipper making sure it is straight.)

Step 5. Open the zipper and use the zipper foot as your guide by placing it along the edge of the fabric next to the zipper. Stitch. (Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of the positioning)

Step 6. Close your zipper. I always have a 1/4" overlap for the zipper. At this point, I apply more Wonder Tape to the zipper edge that was just sewn. (Again, you can baste if you don't want to use the Wonder Tape. Be carefully with your positioning).

Step 7. Apply the larger piece of the pillow back along where the Wonder Tape has been applied.

Step 8. Turn over the pillow back as your next row of stitching will be from the back. Position the fabric using the zipper foot as your guide along the edge of the zipper tape. Stitch. (If you basted the two pieces together using the zipper tape as a guide, stitch from the front stitching along basting.)

Step 9. Pillow back is complete and ready to add piping or ruffle and stitch to the front.

Feel free to ask any questions...

Happy Sewing!

Floor Pillows, cont.

The floor pillows measured 27”. So, I cut the front into a 28” square allowing for 1/2” seams. Next, I needed to cut out the back. Since I'm going to use a zipper as a closure, I needed to decided the location of the zipper. I decided to put it close to the edge. I cut out two pieces of fabric for the back. The first piece is 1 1/2” wide by 28” and the second piece is 27 3/4” x 28”. This will give me 1/2” seam for the zipper attachment and a 1/4” overlap. These pieces will be used as patterns for the red fabric. Here's a couple of pictures:

Here's the initial tracing of the front of the pillow. I used a straight edge and chalk to draw the sides. For the top and bottom, I followed one of the woven stripes.

This picture shows the three pieces for the pillow. These will be used as the pattern pieces for the red pillow.

Here's using a piece of fabric to check how much fabric is needed to go around 1/4" piping cord.

Now, lay the fabric out and measure where the pins are pushed in from each side. It looks like it's between 5/8" and 3/4". I will be using the 5/8" measurement so the piping isn't wider than the seam line. Now, I add the 1/2" seam allowances. The bias strip will be 1 5/8" wide to make the piping.

For each pillow, I'm going to need approximately 120" of piping. This will give me enough to go around the four sides and to finish the ends in such a way that you can't see where I started / ended the piping.

I finished the backs this morning. Here's couple of additional pictures:

Here's where I serged the edges that are going to be stitched to the zipper. I will also press under 1/2" on the narrow piece and an 1" on the larger piece.

I don't use any pins when stitching the zipper. I line it up with one of the lines on the zipper and then sew for a couple of inches. Then, I pull the zipper tab to close it all the way. I also lined up the edge of the fabric with the edge of the zipper foot.

Here's where I'm starting the lap on the zipper. I used my favorite notion - Wonder Tape - to hold the fabric while I stitched. This gave me the 1/4" overlap that I was looking for. Also, I used the extra zipper tape to make sure that I was missing the teeth and lined up with a measurement on the stitch plate.

Here's the finished lapped zipper. I know you can barely see the zipper.

Ok, any additional sewing today will be creating the bias binding and the piping. It's going to be a lot of work.

Happy Sewing!

More project work

Last night, I spent more time on the embroidery. I rinsed out the Pellon Wash-n-Gone and much to my surprise both designs turned out well.

The design on the left is a FSL design and the design on the right is a lace design embroider on the tulle.

Here is a second Abir Motif stitched out on 2 layers of super solvy. It has been a very long time since I have stitched anything on solvy and this turned out well.

This afternoon I started drafting the patterns for the cushion for the rocker and the pillow. The pillow is a basic 18" square. Above is the change that I'm making to reduce the dog-eared look. I hope it works.

Here are the dimensions: 18 1/4" square , moved the corners in by 1/4" and used a curve to redraw the lines. That is the front of the pillow. The back of the pillow will have a zipper so the pillow will have two pieces. Since I wanted the zipper to lay very close to the piping, this is the dimensions that I used: narrow piece is 1 1/2" wide x 18 1/4", the wider piece is 18 1/4" x 18 1/4". This will give the narrow piece a 1/2" seam and a 1/2" turn back zipper. The wider piece has a 1/2" seam and a 3/4" turn back for the zipper. I have already proofed the drafted pattern and it looks like it will work. I still need to decide where the velcro tab will be located and how long the tab will need to be. The width will just a little bit wider than the velcro.
The cushion front has been drafted. I now need to draft the back with a zipper. I will use a similar technique as above to create the lapped zipper.
Happy Sewing!

Inspiration...Christmas Pillow

 Christmas is my favorite time of the year.  I love decorating and will start the day after Thanksgiving and end around the epiphany.  This year I found this pillow cover:

This is the Nostalgic Tree Embroidered Pillow Cover from the Pottery Barn.  Price tag: $99.50.  Description: 50% cotton/27% linen/23% rayon, reverses to 100% cotton melange in solid color, zipper closure, accomodates 20-inch insert, spot clean.

I truly love the idea of making this pillow cover.  The embroidery would be a definite slow down for me because I am slow.  Here are generally instructions for creating a pillow cover:

1.  Size - I make mine the same size as the pillow insert so that the dog ears are less likely to show.  Example - this is a 20-inch pillow insert add 1-inch to the that to allow for 1/2-inch seam allowances.

2.  Decide how you want to do the zipper.  I have instructions for a lapped zipper here.  

3.  Generally instruction for how I decided on the sizes for the back are here.  

4.  How to create your piping here.

If you want to see the floor pillows that the created, do a floor pillow search.  I still have those pillow covers and forms.

Now for the embroidery, I think I would just free hand something and start embroidering.  Don't forget to locate little ornaments for the tree.

Happy Stitching!

Another project finished...

I must be on a roll. This is the 3rd project complete in the past month.

I decided to take an chair from the house to my office/shop but it needed to be changed a little bit. This chair had been sitting on my deck for the last couple years. So the finish on it wasn't in good condition. Here's a pic after it was sanded:

DH stepped in and painted the chair for me. Although the chair looks very white, it's not. It is an ivory color.

I made a pattern by measuring across the seat, dividing by 2 and adding 3/4". Then drew a big circle. This took 1/2 yard of 44" quilting cotton.

Here's the leftovers after cutting out the cushion cover. At this point, I'm hoping that square is big enough to create the ties and bias binding for the piping.

All squared up.

Selecting the spot to cut the 45 degree angle for the bias strips.


Moved the piece from the right to the left so that the straight edges can be sewn together. Notice that both outside edges are now at a 45 degree angle.

Stitched the 1/4" seam.

Pressed seam to the side.

Not shown is how I figured the width of the bias binding which is going to be 1 3/4" wide. How I calculate is by taking the piping and a tape measure. Wrap the tape measure around the piping making sure that you seam allowance (1/2") is visible under the piping. Turn the tape measure over and see where the end of the tape measure end is sitting. That is the width of the bias binding.

Here I took a colored pencil and drew my lines.

Here is where I pinned the seam together. This is where you have to be accurate. Make sure the lines meet on the seam line (1/4").

Here's the seam sewn and you can see that my lines match from one side of the seam to the other.

The cut out bias strips.

Piping sewn to top. Here's I'm getting ready to attach the two ends to make the continuous loop of piping.

Piping is finished, zipper installed, and everything is sewn together. Not to bad for a quick cushion cover. Can you see what I forgot? It's in the picture below.

Cushion cover has the pillow form in it. Yes, it's a pillow form and not a cushion. I went to JoAnn's to get a round cushion but they only had a pillow form which makes it a little puffier than what I wanted. Cushion needs to be played with a little bit to get it to fill out the cover a little better.

Following are examples of how it looks:



This is far from perfect but I'm happy with it. It is the very first time that I have made a round pillow cover. The very first time that I have put a zipper in the round. The zipper didn't turn out so great but it is definitely a learning experience. I love the fabric and actually think that it would have made a great skirt or even a shirt.

The pillow form was suppose to be the same size as the chair - 16". It's not really true. Maybe if you measured from seam to seam on the pillow but it definitely doesn't sit as 16". When making a cover for a pillow or a cushion, make it the same size as what is being covered as in don't add seam allowances unless you need a little for the height of the cushion/pillow form. That way it will fill out the cover.

Oh, I forgot to tell you that I had just enough bias strips for the piping and the ties. The ties are a tad short but will tie.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Linen Pillow Covers

 Spring is in the air.  Seems like a good time to do a bit of a decor reboot.  Here is some pillow covers:

This is the Pottery Barn Carmelita Flax Linen Pillow Cover.  Price tag: $79.00.  Details: 100% flax linen, reversible, 22"x22", 20" zipper, spot clean.  Check it out online,

I am all for redecorating from time to time.  However, this pillow cover seem a little on the expensive side.  You only need about 3/4 yard of linen, a zipper, and thread to make it.  I will help you out a bit.  Here is a Flanged Pillow tutorial.  Linen fabrics can be found at this store.  Be sure to check out the daily specials and the doggie bags.  

Making your own pillow covers means you get to decide color, size, and style.  They can easily be changed out for the season, if you choose.  You get to decide if the pillow cover is washable.  Linen can easily be put in the washer, if you wash it before you start.

The pillow forms can be expensive.  The pillow forms at Pottery Barn are not a bad price.  Surprisingly.  

Happy Sewing!

Floor pillows - 1 complete!

The photo to the left is fabric that was left after I had cut out the front and back for the red pillow. I was doubting that there was enough fabric left to make the bias binding for the piping but I decided to give it a try. If it worked great. If not, it would go in the trash.




Here is the fabric that was left after I cut out the many squares and rectangles to make the bias. Yes, I'm a little bit worried at this point. I didn't have any large pieces of fabric so I had to individually cut each strip and sew it together. The seam ripper was my friend today.




Here I'm getting ready to apply the piping to the pillow front. Please note that I did not enclose the cording completely. I left approximately 3 inches open and started the stitching in the middle of one side.





Here's where I marked corners. This is important for turning the corner with the piping. The piping will need to be clipped to turn the corner.






At this point, I have almost finished applying the piping to the front panel. I stop stitching about 3 or 4 inches from the end of the piping. This will leave a gap of 5 or 6 inches. Pin the cording out of the way so that only the bias out.





I had a piece of the bias that was about 3 inches long that I fold in half the long way and pressed. Mark the middle of this strip with a needle.

In this picture, you can see that the piping has been pinned out of the way. I have taken the short strip and pinned it approximately half way in between the seams. Now, take another pin and mark the pillow front. Now, trim the right bias piece to the left edge of the short trim piece.

Repeat the process with the left bias piece and trim to the right of the short trim piece.

Now, pin the bias trim at 90 degree angles (make sure that the right sides are together). Draw a line from corner to corner. This will be your stitching line. After stitching, trim to 1/4" seam allowance.

Now, the bias for the piping is a continuous piece. The next thing is to trim the cording for the piping so that the two ends meet. Complete the stitching. Now, you have piping that doesn't have a visible starting / ending point.

Here's the back of the completed pillow cover. You can just barely see the zipper along the bottom edge.

Here's the pillow cover with the pillow form inserted. It's a little bit dog eared. I don't know if that is because of how I stuffed the pillow form in or just the nature of a square pillow. I know that there are templates available that help to prevent the dog eared points. I have also heard that if you do not add the seam allowances to the pillow cover that it will be nice and firm. I would guess that the corners would be filled out fairly well also. If anyone has tried the technique of not adding the seam allowances, I would love to hear how it turned out.

The information for the continuous bias is from Robbie Fanning's book "The Complete Book of Machine Quilting". She credits the technique to Ann Person of Stretch & Sew.

Happy Sewing!