Wednesday, October 28, 2026

Itch to Stitch Elmstead Pinafore Muslin...

 It is time to start some fall/winter sewing.  Yes, I am starting a little late but you have to start sometime.  I am going to start with the Itch to Stitch Elmstead Pinafore pdf pattern (affiliate links).  Here is the line drawing:

After reading through the instructions on sizing and measuring myself, I decided to use a 14D for the bust up and move to a 20 at the waist/hip.  The 20 is a little bit bigger than what I normally do.  If I think it is too big I definitely know how to take seams in.  There are six so a small change can easily be made.

I printed the pattern and made the changes listed above.  The front side piece is a little shorter than the front center piece which is easy to correct.  I took the time to measure lengths. There was also a difference in the length of the back compared to the front.  Here is a view of my modified pattern:

 



I realized after I took the photos that I missed something.  The front side which I thought was longer than the other pieces, I actually made a mistake when I pinned the pieces together.  I forgot to pin out the seam on the pocket.  Now, I get to decide if I want to remove the 1/2" addition or if I want to add the 1/2" to the side piece.

When I was visiting a large city with actual fabric stores, I found a navy fabric that I thought would work for this but I will need to do a muslin before cutting that.  The stash generally yields an acceptable fabric for muslins and I found a fairly nice stretch woven.  

Yes, the garment fabric is different than the muslin fabric but I think it will be okay.  I am really just testing that the lengths are good.

Here is the muslin version:


It looks like it was cropped a little too much but it will do.  The fit in the bust is pretty good.  I was a little afraid the location was off but not the case at all.  I do think that it is a little wide just about the bust at the armscye.  Sorry the camera is in the way,  maybe I should try to get another picture of that area.

I feel like the tummy and hip area could use more space visually.  I will say that I am sitting in the muslin right now and it is very comfortable.  I support that could be the stretchy fabric.  Here is the back:


I think it is harder to evaluate fit when you are taking own pictures with a phone.  I do think that the hipline needs more visual ease.  

I think that I need to go up a size in the waist and the hips.  I did do a 20 in the hip according to my notes but I am positive that I just adjusted from the 14 bust to the 20 hip ao the waist is somewhere between the two.  

Off to evaluate what I really need to do here.  I do want to have a version of this for winter.

Happy Stitching!





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