Inspiration...Wide Legged Pants

 I really like the look of these pants.  The wide leg would be comfortable.  Here is the first glance:

This is the Linen-Cotton Twill Wide Legged Pant by Polo Ralph Lauren. Price tag: $398.00.  Details:  high rise sits high on the hip, flat front, side slant pockets, back buttoned welt pockets, full length, wide legs, zip fly, belt loops, linen/cotton, dry clean.

I love that these pants are styled with a casual shoe.  Here is the pattern that I would use to recreate:

This is the Hollywood Trousers by Liesl & Co.  They are a fitted, moderately high-waisted, wide legged pant pattern.  The only thing missing is the welt pockets but that is an easy detail to add.

The linen/cotton twill might be a hard combination to find.  However, there are lots of twill blends available.  Both Mood and Califabrics has many variations of a twill blend.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful. 

Happy Stitching!

Washaway Wonder Tape...

 For years I have used Collins Washaway Wonder Tape to help with the sewing.  Any time that you need to stitch close to an edge and do not want to use a pin, the washaway wonder tape is the answer.  Of course you could always baste, if you are enjoying slow sewing.

The washaway wonder tape is a tape that is for basting and you can sew through it without gumming up your needle.  Collins brand is the one I have always used.  Unfortunately, it has gotten extremely hard to find.  So, I have started looking for alteratives and I have found two that seems to work well.  Here is the first one:

The Dritz Washaway Wonder Tape was my first tape to try.  This tape seemed to work well.  

The second tape that I tried was this one:

This is the Wawak Wash Away Tape.  

All three of these tapes are double-sided adhesive tapes that dissolve in water.  Of the three tapes, the Wawak is the most cost effective.  It is about half the price of the other two tapes.  Unfortunately, it is out of stock at Wawak until October.    The Dritz and Wawak tapes look and act like the same tape.  Both look different than the Collins tape.  

I found the Dritz tape on Amazon and the Wawak tape at a new local fabric/craft store.  The Collins tape might be found in quilt stores.  I have not been to any local quilt stores to see what they might have in stock.  I do need to visit to see if anyone carries thread because it is a true bummer to have to wait for thread to arrive to start a project.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Printed Shirt

 I have become obsessed with the Poetry website.  Here is another shirt:

This is the Printed Shirt from Poetry.  Price tag: $198.00.  Details:  100% cotton, machine washable, short boxy silhouette, delicate collar and stand, double yoke, soft gathering at front and back yoke, full length sleeves, gently gathered sleeves into a narrow cuff with one button, gently curved shirt-tail hem.

I love this blouse but I can not bring myself to order it nor can I not think about the price.  I would be terrified that I would do something to it.  A pattern is not hard to come come up with.  To me, this is the Liesl & Co Classic Shirt with some minor modifications:

I have made this pattern like seven times in the past two years.  There is nothing like having a pattern that you can just sew and not worry about the fit.  However, it does boring to make the exact shirt over and over.  Here are the changes that I would make to view B:

• Take away the pockets
• Add enough width to the from bodice to make the gathers to the yoke
• Narrow the cuff
• Add length to the sleeve to make up for the narrow cuff
• Add width to the back bodice to gather into the yoke (remember that there is pleats)
• Change the placket to a plain blouse placket.

I think that is all the changes.  I will be on the look out for some kind of fabric that gives the feel of this shirt.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Christmas Pillow

 Christmas is my favorite time of the year.  I love decorating and will start the day after Thanksgiving and end around the epiphany.  This year I found this pillow cover:

This is the Nostalgic Tree Embroidered Pillow Cover from the Pottery Barn.  Price tag: $99.50.  Description: 50% cotton/27% linen/23% rayon, reverses to 100% cotton melange in solid color, zipper closure, accomodates 20-inch insert, spot clean.

I truly love the idea of making this pillow cover.  The embroidery would be a definite slow down for me because I am slow.  Here are generally instructions for creating a pillow cover:

1.  Size - I make mine the same size as the pillow insert so that the dog ears are less likely to show.  Example - this is a 20-inch pillow insert add 1-inch to the that to allow for 1/2-inch seam allowances.

2.  Decide how you want to do the zipper.  I have instructions for a lapped zipper here.  

3.  Generally instruction for how I decided on the sizes for the back are here.  

4.  How to create your piping here.

If you want to see the floor pillows that the created, do a floor pillow search.  I still have those pillow covers and forms.

Now for the embroidery, I think I would just free hand something and start embroidering.  Don't forget to locate little ornaments for the tree.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Jacket and Skirt

 This outfit is create a long and lean silhouette.  It gives a little bit of the 90s feel.

This is the Camel Hair Patch Pocket Collarless Jacket by Lafayette 148 New York. Price tag: $2198.00.  Details:  camel hair, dry clean, straight fit, twill lining, dolman long sleeve, snap closure, patch pockets, tonal pickstitch finish.

This is the Camel Hair Slim Pencil Skirt by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $1198.00.  Details:  slim silhouette, sits at waist, zip back, lower calf length, waist darts, lined, charmeuse piping with pickstitching at the waist, camel hair, vented back, dry clean.

Here is a detail shot of the pick stitching for the jacket:

Here is a detail shot of the piping and pick stitching on the skirt:

Here is a video on how to accomplish pickstitching from Threads.

To complete the outfit, check out the Striped Silk French Cuffed Blouse by Lafayette 148.  Price tag: $998.00.  All items can be found on the Lafayette 148 website.

This is such a great outfit for working at an office.  I suppose if you just wanted to dress up a bit on a daily basis it would still be great.  Now, for some patterns:

This is the Atelier Scammit Claudie jacket pattern.  The view on the upper left is the one that I thinking would do a fair job for the inspiration jacket.  You would need to add a closure as this pattern is meant to be open.  

This is an older Butterick pattern from the 2000s.  View A has the kickpleat.  This has pockets which you can leave or take away depending on the look you are wanting.  This might be difficult to find but anything similar would work.

I have made this particular pattern and I found it to have a very pronounced high curve.  So, keep that in mind and be sure to make a muslin or toile.

Fabric - 

• Easy care - a brushed cotton twill - a Mood fabric
• Medium care - a wool fabric - online fabric store
• More effort care - a cashmere camel hair herringbone - etsy store

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Rhapsody Round Two...

 I think this will definitely be the last spring/summer top for this season.  I purchased this fabric back in February specifically for the Rhapsody Blouse:

This is a rayon challis and was actually perfect for the Rhapsody blouse.  You can see my original muslin here, and the first wearable blouse here.

I can really see why people love this blouse.  With the exception of the binding, it is fast.  Here is the second wearable blouse:

Overall, I am pleased with this top.  I had added a little more space in the bodice while keeping the yoke the same.  I added 1/2-inch in the middle of the front bodice and just added more gathers.  The back bodice was placed 1/2-inch from the fold.  This gave me and added 2-inches all the way around.  Here is the sides and back:

  

The top may still be a bit long in the back.  I like the length in the front.  I still have a little bit of poofing at the back of the sleeve.  I thought I had taken care of the that but I do not know what is causing it.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I am planning on more Rhapsody but it will be a long sleeved version for fall/winter and I am planning to change the neckline just a little bit.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Sheath Dress

 Just a little more tweed because you can not have too much.

This is the Donegal Tweed Sleeveless Sheath Dress by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $1198.00.  Details: vented back, fitted, sleeveless, lined, zip back, waist darts, dry clean only.

I think we can do better with price and cleaning ability.  Now even though this is a super simple sheath dress, I had a hard time finding a simple dress like this.  The neckline is where the issue is at.  I suppose if you owned somethiing with this neckline you could tranfer it to your pattern.  I was able to locate two sheath dress patterns.

This is Butterick 6849.  A simple sheath dress with a waist line.  This would be a very versatile pattern to own.

This is McCall's 7533.  This sheath dress pattern gives you four sleeve variations and two hem variations.  It is not as fitted as the Butterick pattern but adding front and back darts will take care of that.  Remember to follow the rules of dart placement.

So, do you know the difference in a shift dress and a sheath dress?  The shift dress falls from the shoulder and typically is looser and straighter silhouette.  The sheath dress is fitted to the body curves.  I think the Butterick pattern is more of a sheath dress and the McCall's pattern is more of a shift dress.

Hope you are inspired to make something beautiful. 

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Tweed Pants

 We will stick with the tweed clothing for a bit.  Here is a beautiful pair of tweed pants:

This is the Donegal Tweed Gates Pants by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $998.00.  Details:  full through hip and thigh, sits at waist, zip front, full length, slant pocket and back welt pockets, back waist dart, high rise.

This is just a wonderful looking pair of pants.  Tweed is a fabulous fabric.  Here is the perfect pattern:

This is the Liesl & Co Hollywood Trousers pattern. This pattern is an almost perfect fit for the inspiration photo.  Just add the back welt pockets and you are done.

This will make part of a wonderful suit if you are so inclined.

Happy Stitching!

Rambling...

 Reflecting on the state of sewing in the US.  How did we get to the place we are in 2025?  

With the demise of JoAnn Fabrics, I find myself in a bewildering world.  To my knowledge, there is no good local thread sources.  Walmart and Hobby Lobby carry some commercial patterns (McCall's and maybe Simplicity).  They also carry wee bits of fabric.  Walmart is more of a muslin type fabric although once in while there are great finds.  Hobby Lobby, I have not spent much time looking at their fabrics.  I need to go by and see if what they are carrying - fabric, interfacing, etc.

Even 40 years ago, we still had great local options.  So what happen?  I can only guess that JoAnn Fabrics slowly pushed every one out or purchased them.  With JoAnn Fabric being the only game in town, why did they feel the need to have constant coupons?  Personally, I would rather be offered an honest price than one that have been inflated so the coupons can be offered.  

Pattern companies - 40 years ago, the big commercial pattern companies were doing relatively well. Probably not perfect but I do not remember hearing about issues.  Great designs were still being offered from all of them.  Now, we find that the company that had owned the commercial pattern companies sold them to a liquidator.  This was a result of tariffs and JoAnn Fabric closing.  Where does that leave the commercial pattern companies?  They are currently still operating.  Will there still be great designs created?  To be honest, there have not been a lot of great designs coming of the big commercial design companies and I suspect that is because no one wants to pay for the patterns.  Remember, it costs money to make a design.  There are lots of people involved in the process.  Somewhere along, we stopped paying for those patterns and were only willing to purchase them at JoAnn Fabrics hugely discounted prices. In the last 30 or so years, independent pattern companies have become a big thing.  Why are people willing to purchase independent patterns at $10, $15, $20, or so for each pattern but find it impossible to purchase the big commercial patterns for the same pricing structure?  Honestly, it is not the drafting.  I have found more poorly drafted patterns with independent companies than the big commercial companies.  Folks, I own hundreds of patterns.  Collecting patterns is just another hobby.

I will admit that many of the online fabric stores are stepping up and offering thread matching services.  I think all three of the companies that I generally purchase from are now offering this service.  The thing that I have found with the service is that you might not get enough thread and you end up having to order more and paying shipping.

I did purchase a thread chart from an online notions company.  This has helped except many times when purchasing online the numbers are not listed but a name.  So far, I have been able to locate charts with the commerical, wholesale, and thread names.  This has helped tremendously with locating thread but there is still the issue of paying large shipping costs.  I think in the future there will be less spontaneous purchases of fabric because the project needs to be planned start to finish and products received of them.

So, how is all the weirdness of the US sewing world affecting you?  We have not seen how the tariffs will change things but we can be assured that the prices will rise at least 25% and probably more.  

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Tweed Jacket

 There is nothing like a beautiful jacket and this one makes that cut:

This is the Donegal Tweed Button Fitted Blazer by Lafayette 148 New York.  Price tag: $1898.00.  Details:  slim fit, flap pockets, structured shoulder, lined, long sleeve, button cuff vent, 2 button closure.

Yes, we could definitely make a jacket less than the price of this one even purchasing Donegal Tweed.  Even you paid $80 per yard, you could make several jackets.   Just sew with confidence.  How do you feel about cutting into fabric at that price point?

Now, patterns can be a real issue here.  Very few companies are putting out classic patterns.  Finding one with a two-button closure is even harder.  McCall's has recently came out with this pattern:

This is McCall's 8614.  It is a unisex pattern which for a female would most likely mean oversized.  You could probably play around and get it to fit closer.

This is probably a good time to look at older or vintage Vogue patterns.  I know this style of jacket was very common in the past.

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

New Itch To Stitch Sorata Dress PDF Pattern...

 Itch to Stitch's newest dress pattern is perfect for the hot days at the end of summer.  Here are the line drawings of the Sorata Dress:

The Sorata Dress has the following features:

• Cup sizes for a personalized fit
• 4 armhole/sleeve options & 3 skirt lengths
• Slip-on style—no closures needed
• Softly gathered waist with 3 rows of elastic
• Optional in-seam pockets
• Designed for lightweight woven fabric

The sewing skill level is intermediate.  Size range is 00-40.

The Itch to Stitch Sorata Dress is at a 20% discount through August 14, 2025 at 11:59 US Mountain Time.  No code necessary.  Volume discounts still apply so it is a good time to look around.

Be sure to look around at the testers' version of the Sorata Dress on the blog post for the pattern release.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.

Happy Stitching!

First of Fall/Winter Sewing...Taroko Skirt

 I wanted to make one more Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt for fall and winter.  Here are the line drawings:

Here it the fabric that was purchased:

This was suppose to be teal but it is much closer to a navy.  Yes, it was one of the "I am disappointed fabrics" but it still works within my color pallet.  The only top that probably will not go with it is the teal challis that I purchased in June.

Here is the finished skirt:

The Taroko Skirt has turned into one of my favorite skirt patterns having made four in the past year.  That is two for cooler weather and two for warmer weather.    If you have not tried it, you should.  That is if you like a simple a-line skirt.

I have discovered the inconvenience of not having a local thread source with the projects but Amazon came to the rescue.  Thread matching is really tough when you do not have a good way to match the thread.  I do have a Gutterman thread chart but it has numbers and not names.  When looking on-line, the names are mentioned and they do not always list the color number.

I also tried a new interfacing.  It states that it is a medium weight fusible.  I purchased this fusible from Walmart from a company called H.B.I. Products.  I had a hard time getting this to fuse and stay fused.   Oh, well, you have to try it to know how it will work.  

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Bib-Detail Dress

 This dress is a very casual every day sort of dress.  I fell in love with it:

This is the Bib-Detailed Dress from Poetry.  Price tag: $278.00.  Details:  100% linen, machine wash, long-line relaxed silhouette, collar and stand, bib-detail with placket and pleat, full length sleeves with gathers into cuffs, cuffs with single-button fastening, pockets at the side seams, back yoke with gathering.   

I really want this dress.  However, I am a little leary of what I might have to pay in tariffs.  This makes duplication my best bet.  I looked high and low for a pattern and finally found this one:

This is The Niven dress/shirt pattern from Merchant & Mills.  Folks it is almost identical to the inspiration photo.  I will need to figure out the collar and straighten the hem.  That is pretty good for locating a similar pattern.  I do not have linen hanging around in the stash but I do have some light weight denim.  I purchased it with the intentions of making a shirt dress.  

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful. 

Happy Stitching!

Itch to Stitch Special....Soller Top & Dress Pattern

 Today's special Itch to Stitch pattern is the Soller Top & Dress pdf pattern.  Here is the line drawings:

The Soller Top & Dress pdf pattern has the following features:

• Options for top and dress
• V-neckline with elastic gathers on each side
• Integrated short sleeves created by extended shoulders
• Bound neckline and sleeve openings
• Designed for knit fabric

This is a beginner type pattern and comes in sizes 00 - 40.  

This pattern is just $5 today, August 5, 2025.  The original price is $13.00.  Check out the testers' versions here. You can also see the versions that I have made here and here.  I have made this pattern three times and it is quick and easy to make.  

I am an Itch to Stitch affliliate.  Any purchases made using an Itch to Stitch link will result in a small commission to me.  Thank you!

Happy Stitching!

New Summer Top...

 I was browsing through my stash of pdf patterns and found the Atelier Scammit Declic hiding.  This looked like a very simple pattern and I had the perfect fabric sitting in the remnants pile.  Here is the line drawing:

This is a simple blouse with shoulder pleats.  Here is the remnant:

I had previously made a bow tie blouse from this fabric and had about 1 1/4 yard leftover.  It felt good to be able to use a remnat of fabric.  The pattern is really long between the shoulder and the high bust so I removed 3 inches.  Yeah, I know that is a lot but it was at 15-inches before the change and 12-inches is still longer than I need.  

I did get stuck on cutting out the interfacing.  I suppose I should just order some stablizing tape so I do not get to take the time to it out.  The pattern required front/back neckline, shoulders, and armscyes to be stablized.  In the end, this was not needed.  I think I would rather just do a stay stitch.

I did not make an actual muslin of the this pattern.  I used the tape measure to determine any length changes and just went with it.  Here are the results:

I am hoping that this will become a new favorite top.  I am pleasantly surprised with how it turned out.  It will remain to be seen whether or not it will be too hot on hot summer days.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Pleat Waist Dress

 Here is another dress from Poetry:

This is the Pleat-Waist Dress. Price tag: $375.00. Details:  silk velvet, relaxed slightly waisted silhouette, nehur collar, mother of pearl buttons, waist seam with pleats above and below front and back, button and cuff fastening, pleated cuffs, jetted side pockets.

This dress would look wonderful in a crushed stretch velvet which is much easier to care for than the silk velvet is.  

For the pattern, I was unable to locate a pattern that was really close to this.  It looks familar but nothing.  So, here are some thoughts - 

Take a favorite shirt pattern, remove the collar but leave the collar stand.

At the waistband, end here and add a tier that is the length you want. Giving enough room to create the pleats.  I think that is doable.

Hope you are inspirec to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Another Pattern...

 Yes, I have added another new pattern to the pattern collection.  Here is the line drawings:

This is the Merchant & Mills The Niven.  It is a classic shirt dress or  shirt featuring a bib, granddad collar, cuffed sleeves, and side pockets. It has a very generous amount of ease.  It will take a bit to figure out a size that I am willing to use.  

Honestly, I am going to need a lot of luck to get this one accomplished this year.  I think I have the perfect hiding in the stash. Using a stash fabric would definitely be a win-win.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Sleeveless Dress

 I found a new website to checkout styles for the upcoming season.  It is called Poetry.  Great name.  Here is the dress:

This is the Velvet Sleeveless Dress.  Price tag:  $235.00.  Details:  cotton velvet and lined with cotton, buttons from neck to hem, sleeveless for layering, modern V-neck with topstitching, topstitched bust darts to waist, center front seam with topstitching on either side, top-stitched princess seam from shoulder to hem on the back, side seam pockets with topstitching, deep stitched hem, dry-clean only. 

This dress sounds so beautifully made with all the topstitching and the fact that it is lined.  I am not particularly familar with the cotton velvet as I usually avoid fabrics that are high maintenance. No doubt we can get the look without the maintenance, right?  Here is a pattern that I think gives the illusion of this dress:

This is the Dani Pinafore pdf pattern by Seamwork.  This pattern does not have the princess seaming for all the topstitching detail nor does it have the row of buttons down the back.  This pattern is appropriate for heavier fabrics like corduroy, denim, suede, faux suede.  Perfect for layering.  I think a faux suede would be wonderful.  

Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

Working On A Quilt...

 A couple of  years ago, my brother was clearing stuff out and offered me a quilt top that my Mom had given him.  Now I am in need of clearing space myself, I decided to finish it and give it to my son for a picnic blanket.  Everyone needs this kind of quilt, right?

So I am chatting with my Mom about it thinking that she had made this quilt top but it turns out that my Grandmother made this quilt top for a cousin.  My cousin passed away before the quilt was done so it was returned to my Grandmother.  So this is a 50+ year old  quilt top.  It is time to make it a quilt.  Here is a glimpse at the quilt top:

It is done in white or cream with navy and dark green.  Unfortunately, it is all polyester.  I purchased a queen size poly batting, a queen size sheet, and a yard of black cotton for the binding.  It will be tied.

Happy Stitching!

More Patterns...

 Yeah, I added more patterns to the ever growing pdf pattern collection.  I took a deal on a couple of Liesl & Co patterns:

This is the Camp Shirt + Dress pdf pattern.   

This is the Recital Shirt.  I am really interested in the pleated front on this one.  I am also fairly certain that the collar from the Classic Shirt will work on this pattern.

I have had really good luck with Classic Shirt pattern and I am hoping that adding these two patterns will add a little more interest.  As much as I like the Classic Shirt, it is time for sometbing a little bit of different.  Of course, both of these patterns will need fitting and that is a time issue.

Happy Stitching!

Inspiration...Blazer Jacket

 It is time for some timeless style with jackets.  Here is a good version:

This is the Cashmere-Wool Single-Breasted Blazer Jacket by Akris punto. Price tag: $1670.00.  Details: notched lapel, single-breasted front, long sleeves, slit cuffs, padded shoulders, chest welt pocket, hip patch pockets, slim fit, walking vent back, wool/nylon/polyamide/cashmere, dry clean.

I looked high and low for a two-button jacket and this one finally popped up:

This is McCall's 8614.  It is a perfect reflection of the inspiration picture except for the lower pockets which are easy enough to replace with patch pockets.  It might take a little more fitting to accomplish this as it is a uni-sex pattern.  So it most likely fits a man a little better than a woman.  Hope you are inspired to create something wonderful.

Happy Stitching!

New Itch To Stitch Irazu Skirt Pattern...

 ItchTo Stitch has a new skirt pdf pattern.  Here is the line drawings:

This is the Irazu Skiert pdf pattern.  The skirt features are:

• front and back yoke with gathers
• sits at natural waist
• side invisible zipper
• back elastic for comfort
• optionsal side pockets
• three hem variations - knee length, midi length, and ruffled midi length
• designed for light to medium weight fabric

Skill level is intermediate.

Sizes:  00 - 40

Be sure to check out the testers' versions of this lovely pattern.

This pattern is 20% off through July 24, 2025.  Remember the savings stack, so it is a good time to pick up other patterns.

I am an Itch to Stitch affiliate.   Any purchases made through a link on this page will result in a small commission to me at no cost to you.

Happy Stitching!

Rhapsody Revisited...

 I am finally getting back to the Rhapsody Blouse by Love Notions.  This is a much loved pattern and I hope I can get it to work.  My first attempt at the Rhapsody Blouse was an exercise in picking the wrong size.  Folks, I know to check the pattern before cutting.  No idea why I did not.  So, I have now reprinted a different size of the pattern and have applied the length changes that I know that I need.  Here is the finally result:

Not sure about the weirdness in the top photo but hopefully, you can get an idea of the changes that were made.

I do have more of that cute fabric from the first muslin so that is that fabric that I am using.  Here are the results of the second muslin:

I used a straight XL with the full bust option this time. That did not match up with the sizing instructions but measuring the pattern told me to do this.  

Overall evaluations:  The top fits.  I feel like it might be a little on the snug side but that is easy to fix by adding a little bit to the bodice width.  It is possible that the small change could create more changes. Overall I'm happy.

Happy Stitching!