Saturday, April 23, 2016

Round 3 - Silhouette Classic Blouse...

There are no pictures this go around.  No one was available after I finished the muslin.  I didn't get a different fabric and I will definitely do that on the next try.

Alterations from Round 2:

1.  Dropped front neckline about 5/8".  This affected the following pattern pieces:
  1. Front
  2. Front Facing
  3. Collar - added 1 1/4" to the length by folding pattern in half and placing on fold 5/8" down
2.  Added 1" to the length and 1/2" to the width at the hem.  This affected the following pattern pieces:
  1. Front
  2. Front Facing
  3. Back
3.  Dropped angle of shoulder 3/8".  This affected the following pattern pieces:
  1. Front
  2. Front Facing
  3. Back
4.  Trued Sleeve -  the seam edges were not the same length

5.  With the shoulder angle change, the sleeve opening needed to be lowered.  This affected the following pieces:
  1. Front
  2. Back
6.  I used the 6WC front and moved the dart point in toward the side seam an inch.  

Results of the changes:

1.  I liked the placement of the collar much better in this version.  This change will remain for all future versions.

2.  Length is still shorter than I prefer.  I would guess I would want 2 to 3 additional inches.  With the addition of the 1/2" at the seam line (this added a total of 2"), I pinned in darts in the front.  The darts looked good but I really needed additional width.

3.  This reduced the amount of extra fabric around the arms and looked much better.  Still had significant wrinkles under the arm.

4/5.  This was a good change.  Like the fit of the sleeve mostly.

6.  The C version of this pattern was a mistake.  Ended up pinning an addition 1/2" to get rid of the extra wrinkling under the arm.  This made me return to the D version and look at it a little closer.

Conclusion:

1.  I really need to place with a different fabric.  I continued with the pink the I used in round 2 and it is really too stiff.

2.  I decided that the D front version with a deeper dart will work better.  It will definitely need additional length and width.

3.  The top still feels a bit tight through the shoulders.  I need to compare my changes to the original pattern to make sure that I didn't accidentally narrow the back a bit.  I have discussed this with the designer and she said that I needed more circumference.  I did measure a blouse that I wear when I started.  Maybe I need to compare other measurement to verify the pattern with RTW. Maybe what I really need is a fabric with a bit of stretch.

The journey with this pattern is getting a little hard (discouraging).  I think it may be time to move on to something that can be called a good finish.  I have an apron panel that doesn't really require any fitting.  There is also a quilt that needs to be made.  It may be a while before another muslin is accomplished.

Happy Sewing!

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