Saturday, April 23, 2016

Round 3 - Silhouette Classic Blouse...

There are no pictures this go around.  No one was available after I finished the muslin.  I didn't get a different fabric and I will definitely do that on the next try.

Alterations from Round 2:

1.  Dropped front neckline about 5/8".  This affected the following pattern pieces:
  1. Front
  2. Front Facing
  3. Collar - added 1 1/4" to the length by folding pattern in half and placing on fold 5/8" down
2.  Added 1" to the length and 1/2" to the width at the hem.  This affected the following pattern pieces:
  1. Front
  2. Front Facing
  3. Back
3.  Dropped angle of shoulder 3/8".  This affected the following pattern pieces:
  1. Front
  2. Front Facing
  3. Back
4.  Trued Sleeve -  the seam edges were not the same length

5.  With the shoulder angle change, the sleeve opening needed to be lowered.  This affected the following pieces:
  1. Front
  2. Back
6.  I used the 6WC front and moved the dart point in toward the side seam an inch.  

Results of the changes:

1.  I liked the placement of the collar much better in this version.  This change will remain for all future versions.

2.  Length is still shorter than I prefer.  I would guess I would want 2 to 3 additional inches.  With the addition of the 1/2" at the seam line (this added a total of 2"), I pinned in darts in the front.  The darts looked good but I really needed additional width.

3.  This reduced the amount of extra fabric around the arms and looked much better.  Still had significant wrinkles under the arm.

4/5.  This was a good change.  Like the fit of the sleeve mostly.

6.  The C version of this pattern was a mistake.  Ended up pinning an addition 1/2" to get rid of the extra wrinkling under the arm.  This made me return to the D version and look at it a little closer.

Conclusion:

1.  I really need to place with a different fabric.  I continued with the pink the I used in round 2 and it is really too stiff.

2.  I decided that the D front version with a deeper dart will work better.  It will definitely need additional length and width.

3.  The top still feels a bit tight through the shoulders.  I need to compare my changes to the original pattern to make sure that I didn't accidentally narrow the back a bit.  I have discussed this with the designer and she said that I needed more circumference.  I did measure a blouse that I wear when I started.  Maybe I need to compare other measurement to verify the pattern with RTW. Maybe what I really need is a fabric with a bit of stretch.

The journey with this pattern is getting a little hard (discouraging).  I think it may be time to move on to something that can be called a good finish.  I have an apron panel that doesn't really require any fitting.  There is also a quilt that needs to be made.  It may be a while before another muslin is accomplished.

Happy Sewing!

Thursday, April 21, 2016

New Patterns & Books...

Yeah, I've been shopping again.  I added a new knitting pattern book:


As a knitter, how could I resist this book?  I've only looked at a few of the stitches but I'm always drawn to the cables.

I also added a couple of new patterns:


I finally decided to give the Archer Button Up a chance.  There are a ton of reviews on this shirt and everyone seems to love it.  Hopefully, I can figure out the fit well enough by fall to make a couple of shirts.


I fell in love with this wall hanging so I added the pattern to the collection. I'm not sure I will have time this year to make it but maybe early in 2017.  I think I might be able to find most of the required fabrics in my stash and that is a win-win.

I also added a couple of boxes of threads in the basic white and black.  I'm amazed at how quickly the last box of white disappeared.

Happy Stitching!

Monday, April 18, 2016

It Took 32 Years....

Thirty-two years ago my Grandmother gave me a bag with a quilt in as a wedding gift.  The quilt wasn't quite finished.  It needed the binding.  My Grandmother said the long arm quilter had messed up the backing on the quilt which she had intended to use as the binding.  Well, I didn't know what to do with the quilt and have carried it with me from house to house, from state to state.  Occasionally, I would take it out and look at it.  Each time, liking it a little better.  This winter I decided it was time to finish it.  Here are the results of "Grandma's Quilt" -



I can say with certainty that the long arm quilter messed up more than the backing on this quilt.  There were places where the batting was missing, the batting was quilted to the front of the quilt.  I did have to do a little stitch removal on it.  The quilt isn't even remotely square but I decided not to square it up.  I see it as part of the charm of the quilt.

Here's a close up of one of the squares:


I'm not sure if  this particular pattern has a name but I'm sure is it a postage stamp variation.  I did find a look alike on pinterest that called it a Postage Stamp 9x9.  It is definitely a wonderful, scrappy sort of quilt.  My Mom said that many of the fabrics were most likely a flour sack.  There are many unusual fabrics in the quilt.  I was a little afraid of washing it but I did and it turned out fine.  Currently, I working through the process of stain removal.

I have lots of wonderful memories of my Grandmother.  She taught me how to crochet and use it to decorate towels and such.  She purchased my first sewing machine for me.  It was a beautiful turquoise color.  The one thing she never showed were her quilts or any of her quilt designs.  I did find a book that had one of her designs in it but have been unable to locate any of the other published designs.  As a child, I most likely slept under the quilts that she had made.

Happy Sewing!

Thursday, April 14, 2016

Happy Dance!....

Yep, that was me this morning when the phone call telling me that my serger, a Huskylock 936, was running again.  It's been 3 long weeks since I made the trek to the closest Husqvarna dealer.  I didn't know what was wrong just that it was grinding to a halt and locking up.  There wasn't a computer error which meant that it was most likely mechanic in natural.

Can you guess what was wrong other than the obvious lack of maintenance on the machine? I promise it will be a surprise.  The gears needed to be lubricated.  It had been about 8 years since the machine had been serviced and that was with a dealer who was a Husqvarna dealer when I took my machine in for repair but wasn't by the time I picked my machine up.  That particular dealer was 45 minutes or so from house.  The dealer that currently has my machine is about 1 1/2 hours from the house which makes for a long day.

The technician told me that these machines really needs to be serviced every 12 to 18 months so that the gears can be lubed.  However, he explained to me how to lube the machine myself so that I would not need to bring it in every year.  I will keep my gears lube in the future.  Note that this isn't something that the manual tells you to do.

Now, I know you are wondering if I there are actually any one who can service sewing machines that is closer and the answer is yes.  However, I learned the hard way not to take a machine to that location if they were not currently selling that brand because your machine will not work as expected when it is returned.  I learned that with a fabulous mid-80s Necchi that I truly loved and a Bernette serger.  I couldn't stand using either machine when they were returned because the adjustments were off just enough that the machines didn't feel right.  I sold the serger to someone else who loved it.

With any luck, I can pick up my serger this weekend.

Happy Stitching!



Wednesday, March 30, 2016

Round 2 - Silhoutte Classic Blouse ...

Well, I have given the size 6W a try in the Classic Blouse.  I did not make any changes to the pattern with the exception of moving the dart point.  I felt that it was too close in.  Here are the results:





Overall, I would say the blouse is too big or maybe I should say there is too much circumference.  It seems to fit the tummy and hip area a little bit better which is what I thought would happen.  There still seems to be some funkiness with the sleeve.  The tightness that I feel through the back is still there when I move my arms.  Maybe I will send a message to the designer and see what she says.  

I'm going to give this another try with the following changes:

1.  Fix the neckline and the collar.  I mentioned the necessary changes on the last post.

2.  Change the shoulder slope and fix the armhole.

3.  Merge the sizes of the 5W top with the 6W bottom.   (I have changed my mind about this.  I will be using the 6W patterns and locating a fabric that isn't as stiff.)


I will say that this is a very quick blouse to make.  The hardest part is the pressing of the collar edge and attaching it to the blouse.  The designer makes this in an hour without the hem and buttonholes.  I can do that to.  


What are you thoughts?

Happy Stitching!