Tuesday, March 24, 2026

Itch to Stitch Vikos Muslin....

 I indulged in this pattern a year ago.  Here are the line drawings: 


This is the Itch to Stitch Vikos Top & Dress pdf pattern.  I love the simplicity of this pattern with two lengths and three sleeve variations there is plenty of options.  I chose a size 14 with DD cup.  I made changes to the pattern following the information the Karina at Pins & Needles provides in her fitting woven tops videos.  Here are the pattern changes:


To the front bodice, I reduced the length from the neckline to the bust point by two inches, then increased by 2 5/8" to move the waist line down.


I matched the changes from the front bodice to the back bodice at the side seams and then reduced the waistline changes at center back from 2 5/8 inches to 1 3/8".  


On the sleeve, I added width at the side seams.  

Digging through the stash produced a light weight woven fabric that I loved the color but knew I would never make anything to wear from it.  Cut everything out and stitched up.  Folks, this is a very easy pattern to stitch.  Once the fitting is good, sewing this could probably be no more than 1 to 1 1/2 hours and I am slow when it comes to sewing.

Here is my first muslin version:


I see a wrinkle that I am not familar with.  The one radiating from mid-armscye to the bust.  I will see if pinning the shoulder makes and changes to that.  I am also wondering if it might be too wide from armscye to armscye above the bust.   


I can see that the dart is a little too high.  I think I need to figure out if it is a bra issue or I need new measurements.  It could be both.  The left sleeve looks like it needs more room and I think I need more belly room. 

Yes, the left arm is definitely needing move space.  Although it does not feel like it needs it with the top on.  I need to figure out the diagonals wrinkles in the mid back.  I am hoping that is not an issue with my pattern alteration.

Definitely need more belly space.  I can not tell what is causing the diagonal lines in the back.  The front is most likely the dart misplacement and maybe needing more dart space.  
Conclusion:

1.  This is a well drafted pattern.
2.  I need to print another pattern so I can give myself more space in the waist and hip.  
3.  Figure out if the dart issue is my bra.  I will be able to see that is some of other summer dresses.  Otherwise, it is an easy fix to move the dart.

I am going to be honest.  If this was a fabric that I was willing to wear, I would probably wear this top as it currently is.  Why?  Because, I can not purchase stuff that fits better.  

The next version will be a size larger in the waist & hips.  I am going to go play with pinning the shoulder at the armscye and see if some of the issue is sloper slope. 

Maybe I should get my husband to help me make a sloper slope template and this issue could be corrected before cutting out.  Just a thought.

If you have any suggestions on my fitting, feel free to leave a comment.  

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Happy Stitching!

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